land rover discovery sport trip computer

Land Rover Discovery: Using the trip computer

The Trip computer is able to display various pieces of information to the driver.

A short press (1 second or less) of the i button will display the Trip computer menu in the Instrument panel. The options available are:

• Display content: Allows you to select the information type to be displayed in the Instrument panel.
• Trip bank: Allows you to select Trip A, Trip B, or Trip Auto.
• Trip Auto button: Allows you to manage your trip selection.
• Units: Allows you to select metric or imperial units.

To reset the selected Trip computer value to zero, press and hold the i button for 2 seconds.

The distance, average speed and average fuel economy values for Trip A and Trip B can be reset. Set the Trip computer display to show the trip that you wish to reset, then press and hold the button until the message resetting trip is displayed.

It is not possible to manually reset the Trip Auto feature. This resets automatically each time the ignition is switched on.

Trips may be added together, to record a continuous journey, or removed. Press the i button for longer than 1 second, when Trip Auto values for distance, average speed and average fuel economy are displayed, then adding last journey or removing last journey will appear on the screen. Press the i button for longer than 1 second to select the desired option. The previous trip information will be added to, or removed from, the current trip and the new total will be displayed.

There is no limit to the number of times this can be done before the ignition is switched off.

TRIP DISTANCE

Distance travelled since the last memory reset. The maximum trip reading is 9999.9 (kilometres or miles). The Trip computer will automatically reset to zero if this distance is exceeded.

This shows the predicted distance (kilometres or miles) that the vehicle should travel on the remaining fuel, assuming fuel consumption and driving style remain constant.

METRIC/IMPERIAL/MIXED DISPLAY

The Trip computer readings can be changed between metric, imperial and mixed units in the Trip Computer menu of the Message centre.

Note: The temperature display can be changed between ºC (Celsius) and ºF (Fahrenheit), independently of Metric or Imperial units.

SERVICE INTERVAL INDICATOR

An upcoming service interval will be notified to the driver via the Message centre, as either a distance or time left until the service is due. Once the distance or time are exceeded, the display will show a negative (-) value to indicate that a service is overdue.

One or both types of service interval (distance and time) may be displayed.

Details of the next service can be found in the Instrument panel menu.

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Trip Computer/Odometer Automatically Resets

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I have a 2008 RRS HSE w/ cold weather pkg (if that makes a difference). I didn't notice until recently that my trip computer/odometer automatically resets at some point. It's possible that it's been doing it all along, but I only just noticed it. In other words, I might park for the night, or for an extended period of time, and do nothing with respect to either the trip computer or the trip odometer. Then when I return and start it up, everything is reset to zero--trip mileage, fuel economy, average speed--except remaining miles. Is this normal? I didn't see it in the manual, and my search for "trip computer" and "trip odometer" in this forum and on Google revealed only one thread from another forum with the same question that got no answers. It's a minor inconvenience. The only reason why I even noticed is that I decided to start tracking my fuel economy and thought I would use the trip odometer to do it so that I wouldn't have to do that portion of the math. I can always just take down the odometer reading each time a refuel, so it's no big deal. I just wanted to know if this was normal, or a subsystem failure indicative of some potential wider system failure.  

So...Gremlin, then? I hate to take it to the dealer if it's something so simple as replacing a fuse or similar.  

Newer Sport and LR4s give you a choice of "Trip A", "Trip B" and "Auto Trip" when setting up the trip computer. Choosing Auto Trip will reset the trip meter (mileage, average fuel economy and speed) back to zero every time you restart the engine. I don't know if MY08s had such a feature already, though (my 2006 doesn't.) It may be an early sign of a weakening battery, is this the original one?  

umbertob said: Newer Sport and LR4s give you a choice of "Trip A", "Trip B" and "Auto Trip" when setting up the trip computer. Click to expand...

I don't think mine has multiple trip computers. The battery is the original, come to think of it. I'll test that out and see how it goes.  

UPDATE: It was the battery! I didn't realize how slow it had been to start until I changed the battery out. Trip computer now works, too.  

Still wondering Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App  

Trip Computer chapter:  

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• Trip Computer Reset.pdf 61.1 KB Views: 418

Finally, saw it. Many thanks Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App  

it's not a picture, it's a pdf file.  

That's what I get when I click on it Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App  

it's not a job, it's an adventure.  

Dude, What with the oversized pics? As far as what you get with a .pdf file that is an issue with your device. Try a real computer with Acrobat reader.  

Thanks RRToadHall Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App  

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Land Rover Discovery Sport – long-term review

SPEC HIGHLIGHTS

D240 AWD HSE R-Dynamic

Farewell Disco Sport: a true Land Rover off-road great?

A small asterisk is a window into a world of half-truths. A get-out clause that allows a company or advert to stab the best possible features into your mind’s eye, asterisking the minute small print somewhere towards the bottom of whatever page you’re reading, the stuff that says ‘only if you spend twelvety thousand pounds more of your hard-earned money, pauper’. Thus you can have ‘available from’ next to performance figures that you only achieve with the car that’s twice the price. It’s marketing sleight-of-hand, promotional distraction magic. 

But at Top Gear, we are not fooled. And so, in a weird month of absolutely unscientific deconstruction, we have subjected our long term Garage Land Rover Discovery Sport to some rigorous real-world testing. To see if it can actually do what it says it can do. Welcome to the lie detector. 

I started with the obvious stuff; speed and efficiency, based off LR’s own figures for this model, in pretty much this spec. Half a tank of fuel and me where possible, car more than run-in at 8k miles, nothing else in the car. Acceleration: the official number is 7.9 seconds, and try as I might, I could only manage 8.8. And yes, that was attempting different ‘launch styles’, with good grip and ambient temperatures of about 12-degrees centigrade. I haven’t been able to test to the purported 136mph top end, so I failed pretty early, though I did go moderately quickly at the track (118mph), and acceleration tails off significantly after about 110mph, though I suspect it probably would do 130+ if you had a 10-mile straight and enough geography at the other end to brake. Don’t plan on being able to achieve that top end anywhere but, possibly, Nardo. 

Efficiency-wise, I’ve done speed and mpg tests (urban, cruising, combined), including 50 miles of the A1 at a steady 56mph in Eco mode - cruise control is horrendous for best-mpg by the way - three laps of Peterborough town centre (yeah, it looked dodgy) and the rest of the tank doing ‘normal’ usage. The trip computer is generally 10-12-per cent generous it seems, so I’ve been doing the old fill-trip-fill measures. It’s supposed to do 38.4mpg combined according to the manufacturer’s website (that’s in 7-seat R-Dynamic trim like this one), but I got a high of 44.1mpg, and a low (town use) of 28.1. Off road it dropped even further (26.4), bizarrely to roughly the same level as a few laps of a racetrack. Figure that one. In reality, mixed usage and my usual tame driving style offers up around 34.5mpg. So not ridiculously far off the quoted figure, and very dependent on how urgently you bomb away from rest, and how fast you cruise. Obviously. 

It will swallow seven whole people, and the rearmost seats aren’t anywhere near as bad as you imagine, though 6-footers will feel like their knees are too close to their ears. There’s a big rectangular box of a boot that will accommodate bigger dogs - though not with the seven seats in place, obviously - and even fat, giant otter Labs seem to be quite happy with the space. Drop the seats and you can get three-quarters of a single-garage into it, and once you’ve got the psuedo-suede cloth seats muddy, they clean up a treat. That’s science, that is. And it’ll tow as happily as anything bar a full fat Discovery or V8 Diesel LandCruiser. So far, so good. 

So, on balance, the Disco Sport will do pretty much what you think it will, in terms of real-world normal stuff - or at least as close as you would reasonably imagine, given that we’re all lightly cynical anyway. Certainly nothing that would stand out. On more subjective assessments, the ride is calm, the handling tidy - though not sporting - and it is a genial-but-rubbish track car. The gearbox can be clunky (LR makes a smoother six-speed), and I’ve popped a couple of items of trim back onto their clips, but generally I’ve been very happy with it. But one of the reasons you buy a Land Rover is because it manages an air of genteel capability and ability. It’s the Bear Grylls of automotive. And even if you don’t need the off-road nouse, you need to know that it can do it - it’s about the aura. After all, precious few supercar owners will ever drive them at 200mph, but the promise is there. 

A fortuitous set of weather meant I could test out the low-grip ability in decent snow, including the ‘low-traction launch’ feature (works well), the ABS (works well) and the driftability (scares people, including the driver). I also took it to the beach to play in the sand, and it was more of the same: consideration and helpful electronics make everything seem much easier than it really is. It’s like a starter-pack for learning to drive off-road: select the correct Terrain Response setting and take your time. No, this car isn’t a Defender 90 on big tyres with air-locking differentials, but it also requires very little intellectual investment to get it to do 80 per cent of the same things. But even that wasn’t enough - we needed more challenges.  

So it was off to Eastnor and some ‘proper’ off-roading. And by that I mean driving through/over/across features you probably wouldn’t attempt if you were on your own in a field somewhere. If you can do this stuff, then the things you may reasonably attempt should be child’s play. Albeit a child who can reasonably enact a safe winch recovery. 

Right. The R-Dynamic bodykit is low enough to decrease the car’s approach angle by a couple of degrees versus a standard model, but you can get around that by being careful. And once you’ve got the car up the face of a surface, it’ll drive up pretty much anything. The Terrain Response system takes up a lot of the skillset slack, variously softening the throttle for more control, or tightening the effects of the electronic diff locks, slowing wheelspeed and maintaining momentum. I crossaxled it  - diagonal wheels in the air - and it just muttered under its breath and kept going. I drove it up slippery rocks, muddy rocks, and some slippery muddy rocks, and it span the wheels lightly and continued on.

We tackled hills, and descents and farm tracks gouged out from clay earth with the grip coefficient of oiled ice. I drove it through some water that covered the wheels - and bonnet, at one point - and my feet stayed dry. The engine remained damp-free and refused the bronchial cough of incipient hydrolock. I drove it at a sideslip angle that gave me a slight headache (side angles feel WAY more scary in the car than they look), drove up and down things that were steeper than my stairs at home. I drove it across wet grass, down seriously rutted tracks, scraped it past bushes and then broke something plastic off the bottom. Though the car didn’t stop, and the breakage was caused by enthusiastic attack of a set of ruts with a big rock in the middle, which I’m not sure I can exactly blame the car for. And all this on the tyres it came on from the factory, without the get-out of air suspension. 

In fact, I spent the day trying to get the Disco stuck without actually setting it up for a fall, and it foxed me. If you drive with some care, and are aware of the car’s capability, there isn’t much it won’t do. No marketing bull here - when it says it can operate off road, it can. 

Which means, when the scores were totted up on the back of a Starbuck’s paper napkin, the Land Rover Discovery Sport 240 R-Dynamic passes the TG test. The marketing isn’t lying as much as simply presenting the best-case scenario, and it’s a seriously impressive bit of kit in several ways 99 per cent of owners probably won’t experience. In fact, for a non-urban family do-it-all, it’s pretty hard to beat. In the spec we have it here, it looks great but ends up being expensive, and there are lots of very enticing options in this size and price bracket.

But there’s still a convincing case for the Land Rover, even in the face of all that. It’s a car with a significant USP, that doesn’t terribly negatively affect it’s day-to-day charm. And that makes it a winner. 

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Reset Odometer Reading for Trips

• Thread starter Sheila
• Start date Apr 4, 2019

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• Apr 4, 2019

Active Member

Manual not very clear on resetting the trip odometer Trip A, Trip B on my Range Rover sport 2012 Anyone have the answer? I would like to set them at 0 when I do certain trips. Thank you  

• Apr 7, 2019

Wanted to post that I figured it out: Have to go to trip setting on the menu, go to either the A or B and hold the i button on the left side stalk for 2 seconds and voila it sets to zero.  

• Apr 10, 2019

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Sorry I didn't see this sooner. Been very busy with my new job.  

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Question : after the battery replacement

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If you know about after the self battery replacement, please give me info. If I replace the battery by myself while supplying the required power (that is, without turning off the power), do I need to take it to the dealer's factory and update the computer or something else?  

hi - i will also look forward to seeing the replies on this one. i recently changed my own battery on my DS and suffered from battery low warnings. TODAY the LR dealer told me the car must go through a code reset/update after battery replacement.  

I got my battery replaced last week at my local garage. They didn't have to do any resets/updates. Charged me £20. Beats my main dealer who wanted £250 for the battery (I got the same one online for £150) plus £180 to fit it...  

Hi, woolz. Did you supply any power to the car during the replace operation? If you replaced the battery without power, your BMS (Battery monitor system) required to reset. (BMS seems to be attached MY16 or later).  

Yamashita-san said: Hi, woolz. Did you supply any power to the car during the replace operation? If you replaced the battery without power, your BMS (Battery monitor system) required to reset. (BMS seems to be attached MY16 or later). Click to expand...

Well I swapped out my battery in the MY17 disco yesterday and I didn't hook up any power supply either. The car is working fine today and the stop/start is working again after about a year of not working There were a few oddities at first such as: 1. Couldn't get the engine to start or crank over. Everything would power electrically but with foot on pedal and hitting the start button it would not crank the engine. Ended up taking foot off pedal, hit start so it goes to accn on, foot on pedal and hit start, then it cranked and the engine started. Haven't had any problems starting normally since. 2. Loost my trip computer values and it went to miles unit when it was km. No bigger to fix. 3. First drive the cruise control was unavailable. However on the second drive and since it has been working. 4. Radio station channels are still there and s is the window one touch.  

You can either take it in to get reset / conditioned. Or you can take it for a long 50 mile / or hours drive with air con set above 22.5 . ( keeps the charge going regardless of battery condition. Told this by jag assist when the battery died .same for DS , Evoque and FPace. Reason the car stores charging data / status , a straight battery swap without the above can mean your battery doesn't maintain a full charge as its predisposed to not charging fully thinking that your battery is on its way out and hasn't been replaced. The circuit has a battery condition monitor. He explained all the ins and outs of the charging cycle on the smart charging system for the AGM BATTERY . It was a few years ago now but on the long run it .does... Bits of charge to 75% Then discharge Charge to 80% Then discharge ... Etc. I can't remember all the exact figures or number of times , but by doing this long run you do the same as the reset. So just take it for a long blast.  

I generally prevented any problems by charging the battery in situ before it became low enough to trigger the warning but on the one occasion when I left it a little too long the warning would not disappear even after the battery was fully charged. But I found that by disconnecting the black box connector that sits above the battery for a few minutes it reset and got rid of the warning. I don't know if this covers all scenarios though.  

:idea: Mine's still running on original battery, MY15 with 50K, would be interesting to see what age/milage people are changing battery :?: Original battery and still on 3 original tyres with good tread left.  

Thanks for the input everyone. I went for a long drive the day after the swap and the car has been great since. Pretty much the stop/ start has been working everyday since. No other issues encountered so I am happy!  

Which exact battery has anyone fitted? I keep getting a low battery warning although the car always starts and think I should replace the battery as it is 4.5 years old now and my stop/ start hasn't worked for over a year even after really long drives.  

After 4.5 years (age mine was at trade in) you will likely need a battery, I was getting some of your symptoms and would have changed it if not getting rid. You will need to go for equivalent spec to make sure all systems function as they should!  

Varta F21 Silver Dynamic AGM, 80Ah, 800A £150.95 batterymegastore.co.uk  

As above. The OEM is either Varta or Exide (depending on VIN) to begin with. Alternatively, you can pay £285+VAT for the same battery with a JLR Sticker on it and a part number of LR091092 (which replaces LR094611) Tayna have an equally keen price for these batteries.  

Just currently priced up a Halfords replacement as mine is 5 years old and played up the other morning, got local Halfords down to around £120.00 if I need one. :roll:  

Halfords do them £167 fitted at your home  

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Finally replaced my battery, fairly easy job just the weight of the replacement. A two person lift into place. Cost with a discount at Halfords, £116. Also had to replace my Peugeot 107 as complete failure but too expensive at Halfords. Indi supplier £59.00. Also just had 5 year service, before changing battery and dealer surprised still original. Next 2 tyres to be changed, done well at 50,000 miles.  

Hi everyone I am in the process of needing to change my battery. The dealer wanted an eye watering £400 for this, which i found excessive. I managed to get a Varta for £150. The service guy warned me about BMS resetting (another £65). Im just wondering if anyone needed to do this? If so has anyone used this - NEXAS ND602 OBD2 diagnostic instrument Car Tools for Land Rover Jaguar C8F5 It costs about £100, but I'd rather have it to be able to change the battery whenever I need to - provided its needed.  

Ive recently replaced the battery on my Disco myself and it was a bit of a mission I'm not going to lie. But I'm an industrious kind of chap and I take pleasure from things such as this. I plumped for a Halfords variant which has been mentioned earlier. Available immediately and they tested the old one which I had removed and driven there in another vehicle. Old tested at 4.8v and tested again at 0v. Conclusion.. new battery. I managed removal on my own with some puffing, panting and a bit of cursing so a 2 man job would make it that little bit easier. Really helpful comments about driving for a long blast to do battery reset. In respect of a diagnostic tool mentioned for this by another poster .. I maybe incorrect but that level of tool would not fill me with confidence that it would do a good enough job. If I was buying a diagnostic tool for my Disco I would look at ones at least double that price. From research on this, the level of diagnostic devices I mention would cover diagnosing all issues you might be faced with as opposed to just sorting the battery issue. Also some are able to be used on other brands which might be a bonus for those with other vehicles in the family.. Hope my ramblings are helpful?..  

They are!!! I managed to swap the battery with some help from my neighbour! It initially wouldn't start, but then did so, and took it for a couple of long runs and all is good (so far!) Ill keep an eye and see how it goes!  

druB said: Hi everyone I am in the process of needing to change my battery. The dealer wanted an eye watering £400 for this, which i found excessive. I managed to get a Varta for £150. The service guy warned me about BMS resetting (another £65). Im just wondering if anyone needed to do this? If so has anyone used this - NEXAS ND602 OBD2 diagnostic instrument Car Tools for Land Rover Jaguar C8F5 It costs about £100, but I'd rather have it to be able to change the battery whenever I need to - provided its needed. Click to expand...

I ordered a replacement battery from Halfords £169 fitted at home. They came out, hooked a power supply to the OBD port and then swapped out the battery. Took 10 minutes. All worked fine. Just needed to reset the windows. And stop start worked again which hadn't worked for 3 years despite Land Rover saying there was nothing wrong with the battery!  

BobbyBox said: druB said: Hi everyone I am in the process of needing to change my battery. The dealer wanted an eye watering £400 for this, which i found excessive. I managed to get a Varta for £150. The service guy warned me about BMS resetting (another £65). Im just wondering if anyone needed to do this? If so has anyone used this - NEXAS ND602 OBD2 diagnostic instrument Car Tools for Land Rover Jaguar C8F5 It costs about £100, but I'd rather have it to be able to change the battery whenever I need to - provided its needed. Click to expand...

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Safe Computer Reset

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Hey guys, I'm looking for a safe way to reset the computer ECU in my DII. I installed a new MAF and it keeps throwing engine check lights for rich/lean conditions. This problem happened last summer when I replaced my MAF with a used unit. Resetting (with the test book) solved this. I believe the problem is what the computer remembers of the user settings. Since it learned from the bad MAF, it has a bad interpretation of what an A/F map should look like. I just want to make sure unhooking the battery and flipping the headlight switch overnight is the way to fly.  

Tell me you are kidding when you mentioned unhooking the battery and flipping the head light switch, that is the lamest thing I think I have ever heard. Why not do it the one and only way you can, scan and clear the codes, and assuming your new, used MAF is good, then you will be done with it.  

I cleared the codes, Im just tired of clearing them on a daily basis because of what the computer has learned off the old MAF. When you reset the computer it resets what the computer has learned to structure an A/F map. Unhooking the battery is just one way of doing this. You can also reset it at the dealer using test book for a nominal fee. I replaced my MAF with a brand new genuine unit so now I have to reset what the computer has structured off the old crappy MAF. We used to do this on imports all the time when we changed something small so the computer could relearn the timing curve based on the type of fuel used.  

you can leave the battery disconnected for a week and nothing will change, ecu not's gonna reset all by itself. You can clear the maf code with a generic code reader. Once reset, the engine should run fine, if not,you have other issues  

I clear the code everyday with my code reader. It returns everyday after about 10 minutes. I put in the old sensor and the truck runs like ****, but no codes are thrown. Did my little procedure earlier and put 100kms on my baby, and no codes on the new sensor. Guess it was pointless to post because nobody knows what the heck Im on about.  

To put this simply, when you kill the power to an ECU. It will remember all the fault codes that are stored into its memory. However, it will not remember all the adjustments and such that it makes while your driving. These adjustments are made to the Air/Fuel Map and Timing maps to give the engine optimal performance based on the type of fuel, altitute and general driving style. It gets these signals from all the sensors on the engine, mainly the MAF,TPS and the O2 Sensors. If you put in a poor condition sensor that doesnt read entirely accurate. Reset the computer, the ECU doesnt know the sensor is in poor condition unless its poor enough to set off an engine check code because it varies too much from the default map embedded into the ECU. It reads off the default map and adjusts according to the information it receives from the engine. The first 10 minutes of driving or so after a reset are where it makes most of the adjustments in a large manner. Afterwards, its very very slight adjustments. Am I making any sense to anyone?  

yes and it sounds like you have another bad MAF sensor. Once the ECU gets proper input from the MAF sensor, it will adapt following several drive cycles. It's not throwing codes beacuse the ECU thinks the MAF is bad, it's throwing codes because the ECU is getting bad data from the MAF. What codes are you resetting everyday, if it's p0102 or po103 (I think, don't have rave on this machine) then it's your MAF. I went thru 2 used one's and finally on the 3rd got mine to run correctly.  

So what code keep popping up and what have you done to repair the faults listed???????  

I dont know the exact code numbers off hand. I know its rich and lean both banks (4 codes). The MAF is a brand spanking new geniune land rover part. The difference in milage and driving is drastic. The truck ran like a bag of crap on the old sensor. It runs so good and smooth with this one. After I did my little reset and driving last night, I did 80kms this morning and not a problem. That and Im getting way better milage. Should probably mention last fall I replaced all the 02 sensors. I use ONLY geniune land rover parts. Mechanically, I take excellent care of my truck. It doesnt leak a drop, and when it does, its usually fixed in 24 hours - pending parts.  

Next time the codes pop up get back to us with the 4 digit numbers, there is something else going on.  

Like Mike said, get the codes and it will make it easier to help identify the problem.  

I think the problem has been solved. I havent gotten any lights in nearly 400kms since I reset. I'll probably throw in my old sensor for fun and see if it throws a light, which I bet it does. Anyways, everything seems to be working fine and Im satisfied.  

Alak - I don't see here where anybody told you how do to the reset, but you say you haven't had any problems in the 400kms since the reset. So. . . what is the reset procedure??  

Yeah ^^What brmadsenad said. What was that procedure?  

The mechanic had my OCM computer rebuilt for my 2009 Range Rover Sport and was unable to reset the system. What can I do?  

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• Discovery Sport Fuel Economy Discussion

Gas Mileage

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Hey all, so looking at the responses to my "which gas grade do you use" question, I thought I would see what kind of numbers people are getting for mileage. In any responses please note which grade of gas you are using. Just as an aside, does anybody find the computer to be really optimistic? So far we have about 1000 miles (1600 kms) on ours, use premium gas and have been getting 23 mpg (US gallons) or 10.2 l/100kms. Although the computer is claiming 26.4 mpg (8.9 l/100 kms) While this is pretty good, I have to be honest and say that I had hoped for better - I was hoping for my actual to be more like what the computer was saying. So what do you guys get for mileage?  

I am not the sharpest knife tool in the tool box but I am a little confused. ( I have 2016 HSE LUX) The distance to empty said I have 60 miles today. I filled up and put 12.035 gallons of premium gas in it. The tank holds 18.5 gallons per the owners manual. That says I can go 60 miles on 6.465 gallons of gas or 9.3 MPG. Also, when I filled it up, it says my distance to empty is only 292 miles. This equates to only 15.8 MPG. I thought it was supposed to get 20+ MPG. That is more then 25% off. I was so confused by how little gas I put in compared to how soon the car said it would be empty that I completely forgot to write down how far I had been on that tank of gas to calculate the gas mileage. Only the 2nd fill up and the car only has a little over 500 miles. The distance to empty seems like it is WAY low. No, I would never run it completely out of gas but only being able to drive 250 miles before stopping for gas is going to be a real pain in the a$$. Thoughts???  

Yes this is a known issue. I noticed the same issue - can't fill more than 14 gallons even when the gauge says it's empty. It's a software fix to deal with the "reserve" fuel of 1 gallon vs 4 gallons. See your dealer to fix it.  

Thanks!  

X2 there is software to update the fuel gauge.  

Todays Update: Went to the dealership this AM and they said that there is NO known software fix or update for the fuel gage reading and that the "car needs to learn how I drive for the system to work properly" - WTF! The range until empty says I have 62 miles and the car only took 12.035 gallons when I filled it up. It better learn fast because based on these numbers on the last 6.5 gallons of fuel, I will get less than 10 miles to the gallon. (When I fill the car up, it says the range until empty is 282 miles or 15.25 MPG. That's a little shy of the 20/26 MPG they advertise) Am I crazy or is the dealership full of poo?  

CruisePlanner said: Todays Update: Went to the dealership this AM and they said that there is NO known software fix or update for the fuel gage reading and that the "car needs to learn how I drive for the system to work properly" - WTF! Click to expand...

Attachments

I just spoke to my dealership and they gave me a similar response. They said my vehicle already has the "software update" and that I shouldn't let it go below a quarter of a tank because it puts stress on the fuel system. The system displayed 20 miles left until empty, yet when I filled it up I was only able to put in 14 gallons worth of gas. Is my dealership full of crap or should I just live with filling up every ~300 miles?  

The dealer "fixed" mine by replacing the faulty instrument panel and updating the software, but the issue still remains. Every time I filled up the tank, it always says "distance to empty" is around 290 miles. BTW, my average mixed MPG is 19.5mpg only. ECO mode only gives me 19.6.  

I just returned from the dealership after picking up my vehicle. The computer system showed 5 miles until empty. This time I was able to get 15.5 gallons in the tank. After filling up "distance to empty" shows 298 miles. My average MPG for the 560 miles on the vehicle is 19.7. Doing a bit of math, that should give me about 344 miles until empty (19.7*17.5). 18.5 gallon tank (minus 1 gallon of reserve fuel). I did however confirm with the mechanic that the vehicle will not shut itself off if the reading hits 0 miles until empty. He said it was just a reading and not a very accurate one at that. Perhaps the computer system will adjust over time?  

I know this is such a little issue but it is a real pain in the a$$. You mean to tell me that a $50,000 car can't figure out at least fairly accurately how far you can go until the tank is empty. Yes, I understand that I could drive like a maniac and that could drastically change how far I can go until it is empty but come on. It's the little things that make people want to jump off the Tallahatchie Bridge and this is one of them.  

CruisePlanner said: It's the little things that make people want to jump off the Tallahatchie Bridge and this is one of them. Click to expand...

Agree 100% with CruisePlanner on this! Bogus. I haven't brought my vehicle in for it's accumulating list of nits, but when I do I'll report back.  

Waiting to see if my dealer can fix the issue.... Will report back....  

I am so happy to know I am not crazy. I have had my DS HSE Lux in the shop for over a month on 3 separate occasions regarding the gas tank. My distance to empty could say 5 miles and I at first could only fill to 13.4 gallons. I was told after they took the fuel tank apart that the fix was a software issue. After picking my car up the first time, I started getting a SD card read error as well. The entire system would reboot itself and the radio is constantly tuning. So they replaced the instrument cluster last week. That did not fix the gas and now they replaced the SD card reader. They say that seems to have fixed the fuel issue. But now from reading these forums, I seriously doubt that it is fixed. This is beyond frustrating. I supposed I will never run out of gas or at least I hope but I want my gas to read correctly. I will pick the car up tomorrow but I am very displeased with the gas and SD card issues.  

LOL They wanted to drop the fuel tank in mine too. Luckily he called me first to tell me the parts had to be ordered. I told him not to drop the tank then promptly emailed him the service bulletin for the software update. They did the update and problem solved.  

So I can simple give the dealership the code in the thumbnail pic and the dealership will see the light? (I forgot to mention in my original post that when I was at the dealership, the technician said he ran a diagnostic test and my 2016 HSE Lux had all the latest software updates.)  

The service bulletin number is as follows: LTB00830NAS1 - fuel gauge calibration Anyone with the issue, just give your stealership that number. Just remind them that you are glad you can help them do their job. LOL!  

Ok as of this evening, here's this weeks stats so far: 252.8 miles on the trip meter 99 miles till empty 22 mph speed average 23.9 mpg I like it!!  

Pics.. Dist to empty.  

Trip odo:  

Average MPH  

Average MPG  

Hi, I have a LRDS SE. Has anyone share experienced this? Every time I fill up my tank, it shows how many miles to empty, but as soon as I leave, the miles to empy reduces by 5 miles & they continue to decrease by that amount even if I haven't driven that far.  

Does it stabilize at some point? If it does then what you're seeing is the system adjusting to the real MPG's, if not and you really think something is wrong, take it into your local dealer. Even test drive what the dealer has on their lot to see how the MPG numbers act compared to yours.  

In other threads there are posts regarding the software update that corrects a fuel guage issue. This may be the same issue.  

Here is a baseline of my driving results w/ the various fuel type and driving mode combinations. I pretty much use the same route to/from work each day (which incorporates approx. 50% highway and 50% city), however, keep in mind traffic congestion may be heavier on certain days. I was hoping Eco Mode would result in better gas mileage but no. Here is a baseline of my driving results w/ the various fuel type and driving mode combinations. I pretty much use the same route to/from work each day (which incorporates approx. 50% highway and 50% city), however, keep in mind traffic congestion may be heavier on certain days. I was hoping Eco Mode would result in better gas mileage but no.  

I'm driving the Diesel Variant Mixed Highway (80%) / City (20%) driving I am using 5.3Lt/100Kms or 1.4 G to 62.1Mi City only driving I am using 9.7Lt/100Kms or 2.56G to 62.1Mi I use the same roads each day on city driving and mostly during peak hour times, stop start is always on. Driving the car in manual mode (which I prefer) has negligible difference on fuel consumption. No fuel gauge issue on my car-  

just returned my best figures- all country trip 740Kms returned an average of 3.5lt/100kms. Im wrapped with that!!!!!  

and one year later- same trip returns 7.1Lt/100Kms which is not good at all My city only driving is around 10Lt/100kms- which is really poor- So either my driving has got very unpredictable and rough, traffic has got a **** of a lot worse in my city OR there is something wrong with the car!! getting sick of raising issues with this car to the dealer!  

muc2sf said: Hi All, a new member here - does anyone have issues with fuel consumption? Got a 2017 HSE Lux back in June, 3.5K miles now and still getting less than 10 mpg in the city. Of course, it's San Francisco and we have hills, but I was getting at least 16 mpg in BMW X3 with a similar engine before. Click to expand...

I live in a hilly area as well and city fuel economy is very poor, however on the highway I get better than advertised. I only use premium non ethanol gas , unless in the US where it is hard to find. I calculate fuel economy as the computer is way to optimistic.  

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New Land Rover Discovery for Sale in Seattle, WA

2024 Land Rover Discovery P300 S 4dr SUV

• Exterior color: Fuji White Fuji White
• Interior color: Ebony leatherette/sueded microfiber Ebony leatherette/sueded microfiber
• 4cyl Automatic
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Located in Lynnwood , WA / 15 miles away from Seattle, WA

Fuji White 2024 Land Rover Discovery S 4WD

Features and Specs:

21 Combined MPG ( 19 City/ 24 Highway)

Listing Information:

VIN: SALRJ2EX3R2498209 Stock: R2498209 Listed since: 04-22-2024

2024 Land Rover Discovery P360 Dynamic SE 4dr SUV

• Exterior color: Carpathian Grey Premium Metallic Carpathian Grey Premium Metallic
• Interior color: Ebony premium leather Ebony premium leather
• 6cyl Automatic

Carpathian Gray Premium Metallic 2024 Land Rover Discovery Dynamic SE 4WD

19 Combined MPG ( 17 City/ 23 Highway)

VIN: SALRL4EU0R2494307 Stock: R2494307 Listed since: 04-15-2024

VIN: SALRJ2EX0R2497258 Stock: R2497258 Listed since: 04-15-2024

• Exterior color: Santorini Black Metallic Santorini Black Metallic

Santorini Black Metallic 2024 Land Rover Discovery S 4WD

VIN: SALRJ2EX7R2498259 Stock: R2498259 Listed since: 04-29-2024

• Exterior color: Hakuba Silver Metallic Hakuba Silver Metallic

Silver 2024 Land Rover Discovery Dynamic SE 4WD

VIN: SALRL4EU8R2498413 Stock: R2498413 Listed since: 05-09-2024

• Exterior color: Lantau Bronze Metallic Lantau Bronze Metallic

Lantau Bronze Metallic 2024 Land Rover Discovery S 4WD

VIN: SALRJ2EX2R2497407 Stock: R2497407 Listed since: 04-15-2024

VIN: SALRJ2EX0R2498216 Stock: R2498216 Listed since: 04-29-2024

Fuji White 2024 Land Rover Discovery S 4WD ABS brakes, Active Cruise Control, Alloy wheels, Compass, Electronic Stability Control, Emergency communica...

VIN: SALRJ2EX8R2500357 Stock: R2500357 Listed since: 06-30-2024

• Exterior color: Varesine Blue Metallic Varesine Blue Metallic

Varesine Blue Metallic 2024 Land Rover Discovery S 4WD

VIN: SALRJ2EX5R2497112 Stock: R2497112 Listed since: 04-15-2024

• Land Rover of Tacoma at Fife ( 25 mi away )

Located in Fife , WA / 25 miles away from Seattle, WA

VIN: SALRL4EU8R2498671 Stock: 4DC010 Listed since: 05-09-2024

2024 Land Rover Discovery P300 Dynamic SE 4dr SUV

VIN: SALRL2EX2R2499765 Stock: 4DC011 Listed since: 05-29-2024

VIN: SALRL4EU5R2497929 Stock: 4DC009 Listed since: 04-26-2024

2024 Land Rover Discovery P360 Metropolitan Edition 4dr SUV

VIN: SALRW4EU4R2498397 Stock: 4DC007 Listed since: 04-23-2024

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