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Vancouver to Bella Coola drive

Vancouver to bella coola road trip planner.

Here's a sample itinerary for a drive from Vancouver to Bella Coola. If you're planning a road trip to Bella Coola, you can research locations to stop along the way. Make sure you check road conditions to double check the weather. Traveling with a dog or cat? Find pet-friendly stops . Camping along the way? Search for RV campgrounds . Find the best hotels, restaurants, and attractions based on the most talked about places recommended by Trippy members.

8:00 am  start in Vancouver drive for about 45.5 hours

day 1 driving ≈ 45.5 hours

11:00 am  leave from Yale drive for about 2 hours

day 2 driving ≈ 2 hours

10:00 am  leave from Cache Creek drive for about 2.5 hours

12:24 pm   Williams Lake stay for about 1 hour and leave at 1:24 pm drive for about 3 hours

4:38 pm   Atnarko stay for about 1 hour and leave at 5:38 pm drive for about 55 minutes

6:33 pm  arrive in Bella Coola

day 3 driving ≈ 6.5 hours

Where should I stop along the way?

Yale Cache Creek Williams Lake Atnarko

What are some things to do in Bella Coola?

This section could be endless, so rather than trying to suggest every local activity or attraction, we'll leave it open-ended.

Of course, Trippy is the perfect place to ask questions because there's an entire community of travelers talking to each other and sharing tips and advice. Trippy is where you can get answers personalized for your tastes, budgets, trip dates & more!

Click the button below to explore more questions and answers related to Bella Coola.

Do I really have to go back home?

Yes, even this step is optional, because if you're on vacation who wants the trip to end? It's okay, you can start planning your next trip!

Want to plan the trip back? Get the reverse directions for a Bella Coola to Vancouver drive , or go to the main page to plan a new road trip .

You can also compare the travel time if you're flying or driving by calculating the distance from Vancouver to Bella Coola . Or get a full Vancouver to Bella Coola flight plan .

Don't forget about exploring your own hometown with a staycation. You can also find some cool day trips or get away for a weekend.

And if you know Vancouver well, please help your fellow travelers and answer their questions about Vancouver!

More info on this route:

road conditions from Vancouver to Bella Coola

places to eat

alternate routes

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Road To Bella Coola – Wilderness Town in Canada’s Great Bear Rainforest

(“The Road to Bella Coola” was first published in the November 2018 publication of Globerovers Magazine. I have travelled Highway 20 again since then and updated the blog)

Venturing to Bella Coola, the little town at the end of the road. is a journey like no other. The unique town can be reached by sea on a British Columbia (BC) ferry vessel, skipping along the spectacular mountainous coastline of BC, or by air cruising above and around the highest mountains in BC.

I chose to drive 457 km (284 miles) on Highway 20 from Williams Lake. This is the only road leading to the Bella Coola Valley. The highway is paved for the first 319 km (198.2 miles) to Anahim Lake, through the Chilcotin plateau, along prosperous farms and forests. At Anahim Lake, the paved road changes to an all-season gravel road, and that is where the true adventure begins.

Table of Contents

Glimpse into the past

The Bella Coola Valley was first known as the valley of Nuxalk, meaning “becoming one” and was inhabited by the Nuxalk Nation. Nestled in the heart of the Coast Mountains the valley is a remote, natural paradise, rich with First Nation history and culture and abundant wildlife. Here you experience authentic wilderness, natural wonders, glacier-fed rivers, unique flora and plenty of adventures.

When I approached the eastern boundary of Tweedsmuir Provincial Park I looked north. I tried to detect the mountain pass where Alexander Mackenzie, one of North America’s first great adventurers, entered the history books in 1793. He was known for his overland journey across North America to the mouth of the Bella Coola River.

Map of Bella Coola and Highway 20

Approaching “The Hill”

Tweedsmuir Park is the largest Provincial Park in British Columbia . When I reached the top of The Hill at the Heckman Pass Summit, I took a couple of deep breaths while looking at the narrow stretch of road ahead, where Highway 20 begins its traumatic descent to the sea.

Bella Coola’s famous Hill is legendary for its steep descent. The actual Hill is a 15 km (9.3 miles) gravel road dropping 5,000 feet from the Chilcotin Plateau into the Bella Coola Valley near sea level. The road is cut into the hills with steep switch-backs and grades of up to 18 % with narrow one-line sections, unprotected drop-offs, and no shoulders on the side of the road. No guard rails are preventing me from going over the edge.

While the stretch of road is commonly known as “The Hill” it is also called the Freedom Road. This is what residents christened the road after a persistent, tough group of locals built it in the 1950s. This was after the highway engineers said that it couldn’t be done, that this road couldn’t be built.

Driving “The Hill”

Driving in low gears and fully concentrating on the road is necessary when traversing the hair-pinned killer curves. I knew that leaning on the brakes too much could make the wheels slip under me. Fortunately, along the way, there are many pullouts to yield to oncoming traffic, photo opportunities, as well as run-offs, in case of brake failure.

Being used to the backcountry and mountain roads I didn’t find The Hill intimidating. I geared into low, was cautious, kept my eyes perched on the road, and prayed that no big rig or truck would want to pass on the narrow stretches.

For drivers accustomed to city roads, The Hill can be scary. According to locals, it’s not uncommon for travellers to leave their rental car or RV behind and depart by plane or ferry to not have to drive back up The Hill.

Once I got to the valley floor I pulled over for a while and felt a sense of accomplishment.

The grizzly bears at Belarko

A short drive down the road, I stopped at the bear viewing station at Belarko. There I had the opportunity to watch the bears dive and splash in the river and catch salmon from the rocky shore.

From here, another hour of relatively flat driving took me through Hagensborg, 16 km (9.94 miles) east of Bella Coola. Hagensborg is where the Norwegian-speaking colonists settled between 1894 and 1910.

Welcome to Bella Coola

It was a late afternoon in early September when I arrived in the Bella Coola wilderness village. The fog hung low and it started to drizzle. The Bella Coola Museum and other historic buildings were shut down for the season.

Fortunately, I found other treasures to explore. At the harbour, I strolled around the Government Wharf surrounded by fishing boats, walked between giant trees at Snootli Creek, found the trail to Clayton Falls and visited the House of Numst’ with its totem pole entry.

Bella Coola’s Petroglyphs and the kayaking tour have to wait until I return.

Tips before you go

• Get yourself a  Backroad Map
• Prepare for your Wilderness Road Trip
• Be ready for backcountry camping in the wild
• Find out how to find Free camping in Canada
• Make sure your vehicle is up for the challenge
• Invest in a good zoom lens to capture the wildlife
• Learn about bear behaviour

Other Road Trips in the Cariboo

• Camping in the old Ghost Town of Quesnel Forks
• Wilderness Road Trip through the Cariboo Mountains
• Barkerville Highway 26 BC Travel Guide
• Cariboo Chilcotin Guide

Sign up for my Newsletter,  LIKE me on  Facebook , Follow me on Instagram to get notified of new posts, and follow me on my journey.

Yrene lives in the Okanagan, British Columbia, Canada, and is the founder of BackcountryCanadaTravel.com. She was born in Switzerland, lived and worked on different continents and has travelled the world. Yes, that's me, an Entrepreneur, wilderness nut and animal lover who prefers off-the-beaten-track places. I write about things I love. Mostely.

10 Comments

That is helpful. We are trying to decide the type of vehicle to hire to drive from Vancouver to Bella Coola. Have looked at 4 x 4’s which have very limited kilometers included in teh cost. Do you think we need a 4×4?

Hello Gail, I don’t think a 4×4 is necessary as long as the car has good quality tires and is not too low to the ground and the roads are dry. Myself, I just feel safer with a 4×4 and don’t have to worry in any weather. Enjoy! Let us know how it goes.

Cinthia St-germain

I would love to move in bella coola but i was wondering if the road on ferrie’s side is ok to travel with an RV ? I enjoyed the reading, thank you !

The road is steep and narrow in places, with no barrier on the downside. There are several places to pull over. Big trucks and buses use the road, so be aware when you get to a sharp curve. I have seen RVs and everything from trucks and campers to 5th-wheel trailers and class-A motorhomes. All of Highway 20 from Bella Coola to Williams Lake is paved, except for The Hill which is usually well-maintained gravel or seal coated. Drive slowly and enjoy!

The Hill was a great experience. Absolutely beautiful, and breathtaking as well. Along the way we stopped to photograph the fire that did indeed close the hwy in both directions. The drive down had its moments of grandeur, but the bottom was equally breathtaking as well. Can’t wait the drive back up and see it from a other perspective

Thanks for sharing your experience. Safe travels!

Eric Hollman

Can u safely travel from Williams Lake to Bella coola in a motorcycle??

Hi Eric, you definitely can and you will find some great videos online. To have some gravel road experience might be a good idea for when you get to the gravel section of the highway approaching Tweedsmuir Provincial Park. Take it slow down The Hill and you will be fine and enjoy a great riding experience.

Stan Swartz

I drive a 24 foot RV on a Mercedes Benz 3500 Sprinter chassis. It a low range or ascent and descent of steep roads. I have taken it on gravel all through out to.north woods of Maine. Can I safely navigate Highway 20 with my rig? Any advice would be helpful.

Hi Stan, I drove the road with my RAV4 which of course is a totally different experience. There are definitely large vehicles and trailer on this road and with your experience, I can’t see any problems. It’s extremely steep wit narrow switchbacks, but there are quite a few pullouts. Go slow, gear down and drive in dry weather. Bella Coola Tourism says the following: “It is important to note that the road to Bella Coola is a challenging mountain road, and it includes sections with steep grades, sharp curves, and narrow lanes. Therefore, it is recommended to have experience driving on mountain roads, especially if you plan to drive an RV or a larger vehicle.” I hope that helps. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

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Driving the treacherously steep Bella Coola Road in British Columbia

How long is bella coola road, is bella coola highway 20 paved, how challenging is the road to bella coola.

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The road to bella coola: bc highway 20.

The itinerary for Monday, May 3rd, Day 10 of the trip, was to drive from Farwell Canyon to Bella Coola. It would include one of the big Adventures of the journey – driving “The Hill” into Bella Coola. It’s been infamous due to its very steep drop, and winding, gravel sometimes-one-lane surface.

Now that I have good Internet, I can include some extra features, like this interactive map of the day – just clic k here to open a large one in a new window.

I was in no hurry to leave Farwell Canyon – I’d love to spend a few days there. But, just before 09:30, we were ready to hit the road.

The Farwell Canyon Forest Service Road’s one-lane bridge across the Chilcotin River.

The climb up from the canyon looks good on the GPS 🙂

As I had the previous day, I spaced myself between 2 logging trucks to both stay out of their way, and stay out of their dust as much as possible. This was shot about 2 km from the junction with Highway 20 at Riske Creek.

I’d be going through 2 of the 3 regions covered by the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Tourism Association , and had been in the third region for part of the previous few days, from high-elevation, dry cattle country, though the Coast Mountain Range and down to sea level. The region sees relatively few visitors, and visitor services are few and far between.

This was shot just west of Riske Creek at 10:00.

The Discovery Coast Circle Route is a 7-10 day, 2,116 km (1,315 mi) loop from Vancouver to Bella Coola by ferry and road.

The view from the Hanceville Lookout Rest Area at 10:25.

Alexis Creek, population about 140.

Bull Canyon Provincial Recreation Area, with a lovely little campground on the Chilcotin River.

At the village of Redstone, a few miles past Bull Canyon, a large and heavily-harnessed dog was laying on the narrow (less than 2 feet wide) gravel shoulder of the highway, apparently guarding a cooler whose contents were spilled around it. While I was trying to figure that out, I came to a man peacefully sleeping on the shoulder, perhaps a foot from the pavement. It was nearing noon.

Turning into a viewpoint is always a big of a risk, as you can’t be sure that there will be room to turn around. This one was just barely big enough. I mentioned to a flagperson that you can’t back up when you’re towing a car, and he assumed, as I used to, that it was because the driver didn’t have the skill. But Cathy and I discovered that it’s because the front wheels of the towed vehicle don’t track, they just go sideways.

The Rest Area at Pollywog Marsh, a Ducks Unlimited conservation area, is very nice, the nicest I saw along Highway 20. Bella and Tucker and I got a long walk here.

The view to the west at 12:45 with the Coast Mountains getting closer.

I was going to fuel up at Nimpo Lake, and should have – the price, $1.239, wasn’t high for this region.

Anahim Lake, where I planned to fuel up, is the largest community in the Chilcotin (population about 1,500) but whatever services there are, are off the highway somewhere. At Anahim, the road turns to gravel for some 60 km (37 mi). This is as close as I’d driven to Bella Coola before. In 1970 I got this far before a landslide on The Hill closed the road for several days. My goal on that trip was to drive from the Fraser Valley (Vancouver) to Bella Coola without ever touching pavement, and I almost made it (did that get me into some odd places!).

The gravel was in a great shape, and speeds of 80-90 kmh were easy. This pullout had a large sign with tourist information, primarily aimed at fisherpeople

A forest fire burned a large area at the eastern boundary of Tweedsmuir Provincial Park. Now I was heading into an area that I have a lot of photos of, but shot from 35,000 feet.

Entering Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, at 2:50 pm. The light really sucked for photos for most of the day.

Approaching The Hill . The sign on the right says “All vehicles must use chains beyond this point”, and several more warning signs follow.

The amount of misinformation about this hill is amazing – even this sign, which should be definitive, has the length of it wrong (I discovered the following day). But its main purpose is to warn about the grades ahead – 10%, 11%, 14%, 12%, and finally 15%. A common figure seen online and even in The Milepost, is 18%, and there is no 18% grade.

Heckman Pass Summit, elevation 1,524 meters (5,000 feet), the start of The Hill.

My little adventurer wanted a window seat! 🙂

A black bear with twins slowly crossed the road on a fairly level stretch of the hill.

One of the narrow sections, with the Atnarko River far below.

Another narrow section. I wasn’t worried about the grades, but on a steep hill these could be a challenge.

It started raining as I reached the valley bottom, and got heavier and heavier. I was going to stay at the Gnomes Home RV Park, but both of the guys at at gas station in town said that the Rip Rap across the road from the Gnomes Home was better. It was mostly very good – more about that in the next post 🙂

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From powell river to lund and sechelt, day 16 – into the kootenays, to historic greenwood, cruising the inside passage to and from vancouver, about the author.

Murray Lundberg

Bella Coola: A Gateway to Wilderness Adventures

Bella Coola lies in the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest on the Central Coast of British Columbia, and for outdoor enthusiasts especially, it is a stunning place to explore.

A Bit of History

The towering mountains, lush forests, and glacier-fed waters of the Bella Coola valley is where the Nuxalk people have called home for over 10,000 years.

The valley saw its first European encounter in 1793 when Alexander Mackenzie, his voyageurs, and Native guides completed the first recorded land trek across Canada.

In 1858, the valley became a busy port and supply centre for the interior when gold fields were discovered in the Cariboo Region. The Hudson's Bay Company then established a trading post in 1867. However, significant growth didn't happen until 1894, when homesteads were granted to a large group of Norwegian colonists from Minnesota.

The area now called Hagensborg is where many settled because the landscape reminded them of home. Farming, lumber, and fishing industries began shortly after their settlement.

Bella Coola, BC Highlights

Tweedsmuir provincial park.

In 1938, Tweedsmuir Provincial Park was established, and at 989,714 hectares, it is one of British Columbia's largest parks. The northern section of this park is almost entirely pristine wilderness, which means wildlife is widespread and fairly prevalent throughout the park. Woodland caribou frequent the mountainous slopes, while other areas see mountain goats, mule deer, moose, black bears, grizzly bears and wolves.

The park's southern portion provides many walking trails, leading to some of its most spectacular features. These include, but are not limited to, grizzly bear viewing, shield volcanoes, a suspension bridge, a canoe chain, and Hunlen Falls (Canada's highest free-falling waterfall).

View this trail guide for a complete list of amazing hikes in the Provincial Park and the entire Bella Coola Valley.

The Scenery

Drive through the glacier-topped mountainous Bella Coola Valley; spectacular sights will greet you at every turn. Spot the many beautiful waterfalls, gorgeous turquoise-coloured bodies of water (including the ocean inlet itself), lush green foliage and pretty wildflowers absolutely everywhere (even in August!). It's truly a photographer's paradise.

Purgatory Lookout

For an amazing backcountry drive that gives you the whole shebang, including a close-up view of a large glacier, head to the Purgatory Lookout. This route winds through alpine meadows with pretty roadside ponds, steep rocky slopes with jagged peaks, and dense high-elevation forested areas. The many deciduous trees in the area would make it an even more gorgeous drive in the fall!

Worthy stops include Odegaard Falls (an easy to moderate 2 km walking trail) and/or Hammer Lake (a moderate 4 km walk to the lake).

The forest road to Purgatory Lookout is steep and does require a 4×4. If you only plan to go to Odegaard Falls, a 2-wheel drive vehicle is fine. Just make sure you go slow, are prepared for anything, and have a spare tire…just in case. There is no cell service in the area!

Getting There

To access this area, you are looking for the West Nusatsum Forest Service Road near Hagensborg. Head east from Hagensborg towards the Nusatsum River bridge, which crosses a short but dramatic vertical canyon. The forest road is located on the west side of the bridge.

Follow this steep, winding gravel road for approximately 25 km to the first stop (Odegaard Falls). Hammer Lake trailhead is another 3 km past this stop, with Purgatory Lookout another 5 km again. The further you go, the rougher and narrower the terrain gets. For the adventurer, the long and challenging drive to the final attraction is more than worth the effort!

Grizzly Bears

The Bella Coola Valley is said to be one of the best places to view grizzly bears in the world. Prime viewing times are during the late summer and fall when the rivers teem with salmon.

Tweedsmuir Park offers a self-guided wildlife viewing area called Belarko. It's a raised platform with electric fencing and is fully staffed to provide a safe way to see and photograph the bears. Both BC Parks and the Nuxalk Nation operate the platform. There is no charge to visit the viewing area. It is, however, only open for the month of September.

If you visit Bella Coola during September, watch for signs along Highway 20 to guide you to this viewing area.

Bella Coola

Bella Coola is known for its craftsmanship in woodcarving, painting and ceremonial dress. Museums all over the world house Nuxalk art. Sign up for a guided tour with Copper Sun Journeys to see 5000-year-old petroglyphs and/or an immersive totem walk. (Neither can be done without booking a tour).

A quick boat ride on a guided tour across the inlet will get you to the old Tallheo Cannery . Built in 1916, the buildings have remained relatively unchanged since the cannery was in operation. While on tour, you can explore the general store, complete with stocked shelves of merchandise left behind. You can also inspect the office and look through cannery records and newspapers from long ago. A Bed and Breakfast operates out of a restored 1920s guesthouse if you want to stay on the property.

Located near the marina, Clayton Falls is the most accessible waterfall, but no less beautiful than the rest. And the Clayton Falls recreation day-use area is the only ocean-front park in Bella Coola. Follow the gravel road approximately 1.8 km west and downhill from the government wharf. The parking area will be on your left-hand side, just past the BC Hydro generating station. The trail to the waterfall is along the fence on the upper side of the generating station. It's a short 200-metre walk. You will find the beach trail across the road from the parking area.

To this day, the quaint village of Hagensborg has a Norwegian influence. One can still experience what life was like long ago by visiting the Norwegian Heritage House. It's a time capsule furnished in traditional Norwegian fashion and displaying the household tools of the late 1800s.

For a tasty treat, I highly recommend stopping at Cafe Bella ! They specialize in fresh pastries, desserts, specialty coffee, tea and smoothies. They also have an assortment of yummy sandwiches to go.

Bella Coola and Hagensborg both have a small grocery store, as well as several options for accommodations. Restaurants are extremely limited, so preparing your own meals is best.

We had a lovely stay at the Nasatsum River Guest House , located 10 minutes east of Hagensborg.

Getting to Bella Coola

Getting to Bella Coola is a highlight of its own. Whether you do the circle route through Williams Lake/Chilcotin/Whistler/Vancouver or the Discovery Coast route by road and ferry to or from Port Hardy, you are in for a scenic treat. Either way, it's a very long road trip. The fact that Bella Coola isn't an overly easy place to get to adds to its charm.

And let's not forget about the famous ‘Freedom Road,' or ‘The Hill' as it's now known.

Pure determination by the citizens of Bella Coola was the main reason ‘ The Hill ‘ finally came to fruition. It was several decades, if not a century, in the making. The road drops over 4,000 feet in just over 19 km, with a grade of up to 18%. So it's steep! Also, most hairpin turns are without guardrails, and there are a few short one-lane sections too. So, while it's not for the faint of heart, I'd consider it a good gravel road. There are far worse roads out there (the roads to Cape Scott or Bamfield come to mind!).

Our Itinerary

For our recent trip to Bella Coola, we didn't realize how far in advance you must plan the ferry to Port Hardy to partake in the Discovery Coast Route. (Last-minute planning like we often do doesn't always work!). So, we opted for the following itinerary.

On the way there:

• Duke Point (south Nanaimo) – Tsawwassen
• Drive Hwy 1 to Cache Creek
• Take Hwy 97 to 150 Mile House
• Hwy 20 to Bella Coola

The open cattle and horse pastures along Hwy 20 keep the drive interesting. We had to stop or slow down to a crawl a few times to let livestock cross the road!

On the way back:

• Retrace our steps back to Cache Creek
• Then, take Hwy 99 through Lillooet, Pemberton, and Whistler to the Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal, where we boarded a ferry to come home.

Hwy 99 from Cache Creek to Whistler is absolutely gorgeous! (I highly recommend this drive even if you don't go all the way to Bella Coola!).

I hope I've convinced you to plan a trip to Bella Coola in the near future! If it's something you are contemplating, feel free to save this article on Pinterest.

Meet Kim Parcher, the creative mind and driving force behind Vancouver Island View. Kim's passion for experience-based travel and her talent for sharing valuable information have made her a dedicated niche blogger and freelance writer since 2016. Her unwavering dedication to unlocking the secrets of Vancouver Island, her home since 2009, has made her an undisputed authority in the realm of immersive exploration of the island.

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It was one of the most scenic trip that I ever went on glad you liked it as much as us

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Road Trip to Bella Coola and the Chilcotins, Canada

Have you ever travelled the ten hours on a BC Ferry from the top of Vancouver Island to the Chilcotins in British Columbia after arriving at the ferry slip at 5 am because it takes a whole chunk of time to load cars, trucks and campers on a tiny ferry, and then been delighted to find an excellent breakfast aboard the ferry once you finally boarded?  We did and we tucked ourselves up for a short nap after that excellent breakfast along with almost everyone else.

This was just the beginning of our trip to Bella Coola  and the Chilcotins last September, starting with the ferry ride from Port Hardy.  We visited  5000-year-old petroglyphs accompanied by a guide from the Indigenous peoples of the area, the Nuxalk and then experienced our guide chanting and drumming his people’s stories of the Creator. Do you know how Raven helped the Nuxalk get the sun? 

Always a crafty bird, Raven managed to impregnate the Creator’s daughter who bore him a son.  The Nuxalk had no sun and had to go to the Creator every day to get sun for that day, but the baby boy kept begging his granddad to let him play with a huge crystal ball that the grandfather had stored away.  Finally, the Creator gave in and the lad took the ball, smashed it on the floor and, suddenly, the Nuxalk had ongoing light. 

We stayed first at the motel operated by the Nuxalk people in Bella Coola and visited their ancestral lands about 20 minutes out of town. There, at Acwsakcta School (kindergarten to Grade 12) for Indigenous children, drumming, chanting and dance are taught, as well as traditional cooking.  There is wonderful Nuxalk art in the foyer and a collection of totem poles outside.  And an amazing piece of Nuxalk art outside the school honouring the Nuxalk children who survived the residential schools.  Nuxalk art can easily take its place beside that of Haida Gwai.

The gift shop, Mamayu, has only Indigenous wares and we discovered some lovely Indigenous remembrances to bring home with us.  There are several galleries in the area with astounding Nuxalk artworks. One of them, the Copper Sun Gallery , is also the local Tourist Information Center. Located on the main street in Bella Coola, that’s where you can book raft trips and tours of the petroglyphs.

Later we bumped along a forest road, (emphasis on forest, not road), actually wishing we had a 4×4 and then wandered on foot along a wilderness trail to a small stream where grizzlies were fishing and discovered a beautiful memorial to a Nuxalk elder.  Donning life jackets and rubber boots, we floated on a raft down the Bella Coola river, enjoying the peace of the wilderness and more fishing grizzlies.  Through an accidental meeting in a gallery, we were invited to an afternoon concert featuring well-known Canadian fiddlers and then returned that evening to join in the country dancing with families including babes in arms.

“Bear Cottage,” one of a collection of cottages close to Tweedsmuir Park, is so comfortable and well equipped, that it feels like home.  We enjoyed the wonderful collection of photographs of grizzlies gifted to the owners of the cottage and were amused by the towels in the spacious bathroom that have tiny brown grizzlies appliqued on them.  The TV can be a bit sketchy but we didn’t care because we had had a wonderfully full day and were content to cook dinner and just relax. 

Driving the spine-tingling road up the slopes of Tweedsmuir Park, with its precipitous drop on the passenger side, we emerged on the wonderfully wide sunlit roads of the Caribou.  The temptation to put your foot down on the accelerator was irresistible.  And over 140 kms/hr seemed just about right!

We visited the Lodge in Tweedsmuir Park and admired the wonderful collection of Nuxhalk masks on the wall of the dining roomand when we asked, hesitantly, if we might photograph them, been heartily encouraged to do so.

If You Go…

I genuinely recommend the BC ferry as the way to get there but with a few cautions.  Book early, because it is a little ferry and it fills up quickly.  Also look for accommodation early.  And it is best to go before Labour Day. 

We weren’t able to see the  Bella Coola Valley Museum , the  historic Tallheo Cannery , or  the Norwegian Heritage House in Hagenborg because we were there in September and many of those places are staffed by students and only in the summer.  Don’t miss it!

About the Author

Ann was born and grew up in Vancouver. She is the mother of four, the grandmother of seven and, ta da, the great grandmother of one with another on the way.

She has always loved travelling and her first major adventure was taking her four children, ages 3 through 12 to England and Europe for five months. They drove a van and camped everywhere. Since then, her travels have known few boundaries, both in North America and overseas.

Photo credits:  Ray Frost

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Of note: Considering the substantial length of the highway, good views are few and far in-between. No cell phone signal for most of the highway. Free-roaming livestock by the roadside. Several cattle guards on the highway. A portion of the highway is gravel. The stretch through South Tweedsmuir Provincial Park (closer to the Western end of the highway) features a very long, steep and narrow road, with enormous drop-offs and no guard rail.

British Columbia Highway 20 runs for 450+ kilometers from the town of Williams Lake in BC interior, through a few very small settlements (Riske Creek, Hanceville, Alexis Creek, Redstone, Tsi Del Del, Chilanko Forks, Tatla Lake, Kleena Kleene, Nimpo Lake, Anahim Lake, Firvale and Hagensborg) to the coastal community of Bella Coola , some 455 kilometers away. While the highway itself is by no means a scenic drive, it leads to some of the best BC wilderness, including a huge Tweedsmuir Provincial Park. We drove the entire length of Highway 20 today, and here is our trip report.

BC Highway 97 North in Williams Lake British Columbia Canada

2. A few hundred meters later, we are getting ready to turn left. Williams Lake is the right place to fuel the vehicle at the best price of your Highway 20 journey, and to stock up on supplies, prior to beginning the trip. There are very few stores for the rest of the way, and the selection of goods is much more limited. No Wal-Marts, Safeways, Save-on-Foods, Staples, Mark's, or Canadian Tires exist West of Williams Lake.

Highway 97 North in Williams Lake BC Canada

3. Now on Highway 20, still in Williams Lake, with a sign indicating the distances to various destinations.

BC Highway 20 West in Williams Lake British Columbia Canada

4. For the first 25 minutes, Highway 20 goes up and down some hills.

BC Highway 20 West near the town of Williams Lake

5. This cyclist sure got a great workout.

Cyclist on BC Highway 20

6. Then, the Chilcotin area of British Columbia begins, and the hills become less numerous and not nearly as steep.

Start or Chilcotin Area on BC Highway 20 West of Williams Lake

7. There's a lot of green around, and very little traffic.

Highway 20 West British Columbia Canada

8. Within an hour or so, Hanceville Lookout Rest Area features this neat view.

View from Hanceville Rest Area by Highway 20 in British Columbia Canada

9. Passing by an aboriginal settlement.

Aboriginal Settlement by BC Highway 20

10. In Tatla Lake we have encountered dozens of cows roaming freely on the side of the highway.

Entrance to Tatla Lake on BC Highway 20 British Columbia Canada

11. Tatla Lake, BC.

Tatla Lake BC Canada

12. Cows in Tatla Lake. Watch out for cattle guards - there are four or five of them on Highway 20.

Cows roaming on the side of Highway 20 in British Columbia Canada

13. Hello to you too.

Cows by Highway 20 in Tatla Lake British Columbia Canada

14. The first mountain showed up far away on the horizon 171 kilometers after the beginning of Highway 20. And it took close to three hours of driving before really good mountain views started to appear, like the one in the photo below.

Mountain View from BC Highway 20

15. Here is another good view, seen from a pullout.

Mountain seen from Highway 20 pullout Province of British Columbia Canada

16. After Anahim Lake (320 kilometers from Williams Lake), the asphalt is replaced by packed gravel for the next 60 kilometers. There are numerous rough spots on this stretch of Highway 20, usually accompanied by a small "slow" sign nearby.

Gravel part of BC Highway 20

17. About 15 kilometers of the gravel portion of the highway is a very steep descent, which begins after Tweedsmuir Provincial Park entrance (which itself starts 355 kilometers after Williams Lake). A sign requires all vehicles to have chains on drive axles (during the winter season, obviously), but, even with the road being dry, it was far from a serene drive.

Steep hill BC Highway 20 by Bella Coola Valley

18. You quickly lose over 1,000 meters in elevation on this hill. The road is quite narrow in many places, and not that smooth.

Highway 20 near Tweedsmuir Provincial Park British Columbia Canada

19. Plus, there are no guard rails. Driving this road in the winter is not for the faint of heart.

Steep hill on BC Highway 20 by Bella Coola Valley

20. A steep drop-off.

Steep drop off by BC Highway 20

21. The enormous hill ends in Bella Coola valley. The road was a bit flooded at one point, but quite passable.

BC Highway 20 in Bella Coola Valley

22. In the valley, the mountain views get better and better.

Mountain view BC Highway 20 West in Bella Coola Valley

23. One more.

Highway 20 West Bella Coola Valley British Columbia Canada

24. It's a neat drive, once you are in the valley. There are houses on both sides here and there, and, still, very little traffic.

Bella Coola Valley Highway 20 West British Columbia Canada

25. Highway 20 ends at a government wharf, a few kilometers past a small settlement of Bella Coola. Here we are approaching Bella Coola.

Approaching Bella Coola on BC Highway 20 West

26. After this bridge, turning right leads to the center of Bella Coola, while going straight for about three more kilometers would lead to the wharf and the end of Highway 20, both of which we will cover in the next trip report.

Highway 20 West near Bella Coola British Columbia Canada

BC Highway 20 is far from being the most scenic drive in the province, and features a pretty complicated hill closer to its western end. That said, if you want to experience the vast and mostly people-free wilderness of the Chilcotin region of British Columbia, or to visit Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, Highway 20 will get you there.

A selection of questions and answers to some the most popular questions we receive

When is the best time of year to see the grizzly bears.

The best time of year to see bears in the Bella Coola Valley typically falls between late August and early October. During this time, the salmon are running upstream, which is a major food source for bears in the area, and as a result, they are more active and visible. It is important to note that bear sightings cannot be guaranteed, and it is always essential to observe these magnificent animals from a safe distance and with caution. Additionally, it is advisable to check with local authorities or tour operators for the latest information on bear sightings and safety precautions before visiting the area.

Is it safe to driveway RV or trailer down the Hill

The road leading to Bella Coola, officially known as Highway 20, is a steep and winding mountain road that can be challenging to drive for some people, especially those who are not experienced with driving on mountain roads. The route includes a section of road known as the “Hill,” which is a particularly steep and winding section of the highway that can be especially challenging for larger vehicles such as RVs or travel trailers.

While it is possible to drive an RV or travel trailer down the “Hill” to Bella Coola, it is important to exercise caution and follow recommended safety guidelines. It is advisable to check road conditions before embarking on the trip, as the road may be closed due to inclement weather, rock slides, or other hazards.

It is also recommended that drivers of larger vehicles take extra precautions when driving on mountain roads, such as driving at slower speeds, maintaining a safe distance from other vehicles, and using lower gears to control speed when descending steep inclines. Additionally, it may be helpful to have experience driving on mountain roads before attempting the drive down to Bella Coola.

Overall, while it is possible to drive an RV or travel trailer down the “Hill” to Bella Coola, it is important to take appropriate precautions and exercise caution to ensure a safe and enjoyable trip.

how long is the ferry from port hardy

The ferry route from Port Hardy to Bella Coola is serviced by BC Ferries, and it is known as the Inside Passage route. The travel time for this ferry route can vary depending on the season, weather conditions, and other factors. However, on average, the ferry ride from Port Hardy to Bella Coola takes approximately 10-12 hours.

It is important to note that the Inside Passage ferry route is known for its stunning scenery and wildlife sightings, including whales, dolphins, sea lions, and eagles. 

If you are planning to take the ferry from Port Hardy to Bella Coola, it is recommended to check the BC Ferries website or contact their customer service for up-to-date schedules, fares, and other important information regarding your trip.

when is the bear viewing platform operational

The wildlife viewing platform in Tweedsmuir Provincial Park is typically operational for the month of September. This timeframe coincides with the annual salmon run, which is a major food source for bears in the area. During this time, the viewing platform provides visitors with a safe and unique opportunity to observe grizzly bears and other wildlife in their natural habitat.

It is important to note that the operational dates of the wildlife viewing platform can vary from year to year depending on weather conditions, wildlife activity, and other factors. Therefore, it is advisable to check with BC Parks or the park ranger station for the latest information on the operational status of the platform before visiting Tweedsmuir Provincial Park.

Additionally, it is important to follow all safety guidelines and regulations when using the viewing platform or observing wildlife in the park. This includes maintaining a safe distance from bears and other animals, respecting their habitat and behavior, and following all posted signs and guidelines.

how long is the drive from Vancouver

The drive from Vancouver to Bella Coola is approximately 1,010 kilometers (630 miles) long, and it typically takes around 14-16 hours to complete the journey. However, the actual travel time can vary depending on factors such as road conditions, weather, and traffic.

The route from Vancouver to Bella Coola includes a scenic drive along Highway 20, which passes through the Coast Mountains and the Chilcotin Plateau. This drive is known for its stunning views of mountain ranges, rivers, lakes, and forests, and it also provides opportunities for wildlife sightings.

It is important to note that the road to Bella Coola is a challenging mountain road, and it includes sections with steep grades, sharp curves, and narrow lanes. Therefore, it is recommended to have experience driving on mountain roads, especially if you plan to drive an RV or a larger vehicle.

Additionally, it is advisable to check road conditions and weather forecasts before embarking on the drive, as the road may be closed due to rock slides, flooding, or other hazards, especially during the winter months.

where are the some places to stay along the way

• Williams Lake: Williams Lake is a city located about 280 km (175 mi) east of Bella Coola, and it is a good place to stop for the night if you are driving from the east. There are several hotels and motels in Williams Lake, including the Ramada by Wyndham Williams Lake, Super 8 by Wyndham Williams Lake BC, and the Sandman Hotel & Suites Williams Lake.
• Nimpo Lake:Nimpo Lake is a small community in the Cariboo region of British Columbia known for its beautiful scenery and outdoor recreational activities such as fishing, camping, and boating. Accommodation options include wilderness resorts, motels, and lakeside lodges.
• Anahim Lake: Anahim Lake is a small community located about 180 km (112 mi) west of Williams Lake and 160 km (100 mi) east of Bella Coola. It is a good place to stop for the night if you want to break up the drive into two days. There are several lodges and resorts in Anahim Lake, including the Anahim Lake Resort, Moose Haven Lodge, and Eagle’s Nest Resort.

It is important to note that accommodations in the Bella Coola Valley can be limited, especially during the peak travel season in the summer months. Therefore, it is recommended to book your accommodations in advance to ensure availability.

is the road safe in the winter

The road to Bella Coola, also known as Highway 20, can be challenging and potentially hazardous during the winter months. The road passes through steep and rugged terrain, which can be subject to heavy snowfall, ice, and freezing temperatures during the winter season.

While the road to Bella Coola is maintained and plowed during the winter months, it is still recommended that travelers exercise caution and be prepared for winter driving conditions. Some sections of the road may be closed due to weather or avalanche hazards, and it is important to check road conditions and weather forecasts before embarking on the journey.

It is also advisable to equip your vehicle with appropriate winter tires or chains, carry emergency supplies such as food, water, blankets, and a shovel, and allow extra time for travel. Additionally, it is recommended that drivers have experience driving on winter roads, especially in mountainous areas.

Overall, while the road to Bella Coola may be passable during the winter months, travelers should be prepared for challenging driving conditions and take appropriate safety precautions to ensure a safe and enjoyable trip.

where is the best place to see the bears

The Bella Coola Valley is home to a significant population of grizzly bears, and there are several places where visitors can observe these majestic animals in their natural habitat. The two best options are to book a river float or marine tour or go to the wildlife viewing platform in Tweedsmuir Provincial Park. The platform is located about 45 minutes east of Bella Coola and is a protected area that provides critical habitat for bears and other wildlife. The viewing platform is situated on the Atnarko River and provides a safe and elevated viewing area for visitors to observe bears feeding on the salmon that spawn in the river during the fall.

It is important to note that while observing bears in their natural habitat can be a thrilling experience, it is also important to follow all safety guidelines and regulations to ensure the safety of both humans and animals. Visitors should maintain a safe distance from bears, avoid approaching or disturbing them, and always respect their habitat and behavior.

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Surviving the Bella Coola: The ‘impossible’ road that’s been terrifying British Columbia drivers since 1953

Navigating switchbacks and hairpin turns without guardrails on one of North America's most dangerous highways

By Norma Watt & Roadtrippers

Edna “Mom” Davy anchored herself cross-legged on the minivan’s floor, sweater yanked tightly over her head. “I’m not going back up there,” she cried. The Davys had just completed the Bella Coola extension of Highway 20 in south-central British Columbia, Canada. The road, classified as one of the most dangerous highways in North America, drops an ear-popping 5,000 feet through hairpin bends and major switchbacks. 

A passing driver had offered to pilot the Davys’ minivan back to Anahim Lake, at the start of the route, after William “Pop” Davy declined to re-weave the scenic, white knuckle-inducing route. But Edna continued to wail at every lurch and road lump, until they were parked safely at the top.

When the Davys’ told me about their trip, I thought to myself, “What’s the problem?” 

It’s not until my husband George and I make the same descent in our 22-foot class C motorhome that I begin to understand Edna’s outburst. For 273 miles across the Chilcotin region, I happily photograph cattle, cow ponies, and split rail fences set against picturesque blue skies and scudding white clouds. I am lulled into complacency by rolling grasslands, jack pine forests, and a notable lack of supermarkets or fast food chains. But at Tweedsmuir South Provincial Park , the paved section of Highway 20 ends and the real “fun”—depending on who you ask—begins.

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Gearing down

George gears down the engine to prevent the brakes from burning out down the 18 percent grades. Rocks crunch and spew from the tires while pebbles crash into the undercarriage; the cliffside drops steeply just inches from my side mirror. Two switchbacks totaling seven miles test our already-frayed nerves.

I yelp as my fingers dig into the dashboard. “Honey, this is beautiful,” George says calmly. “Look how high up we are. Take a picture.” I open my eyes long enough to see the cliffside disappear—there is nothing separating us from the valley floor except a few boulders and scrub pine. My legs ache from trying to apply brakes that aren’t there.

We pause and take in the view while a long delivery truck backs up, reverses, cranks its wheels hard, and pretzels around the bend. At one point the front bumper hangs precariously over the edge of the cliffside. George takes the opportunity to relay a bit of road trivia: “In 1972, Bob Patison was the first to deliver a mobile home down here,” he says.

It seems impossible to me, but Cory Patison of Patison Mobile Homes confirms that they did indeed navigate the Bella Coola with a 68-foot-long unit weighing 32,640 pounds pushing down against the truck’s tow hitch. “It took us most of the day,” he says. “We were also the first to haul a mobile home back up—equally difficult. The transmission and rear axles overheated, and it took us half an hour to wiggle around one hairpin.”

After a 13-mile descent that takes 1 hour and 25 minutes, we stop to relax at the Gnomes Home Campground in Hagensborg. 

The “impossible” road

At the Kopas General Store we learn that this harrowing road was built by the citizens of Bella Coola and Anahim Lake after the British Columbia government deemed the project “impossible.” A group led by Cliff Kopas and the Bella Coola Board of Trade raised and borrowed funds, and procured a small grant. In the beginning, a dynamite powder crew comprising just two men, two air compressors, and two jackhammers blasted and hammered a channel up the cliff face.

In the early 1950s, Ike Sing, owner of a general store in Anahim Lake, promoted the road build and convinced Thomas Squinas, an expert trapper and guide, to blaze a trail through muskeg and mosquitoes via Tweedsmuir Park. For two years, base camps filled with donated supplies moved ever-shakily upwards. Men backpacked and horses hauled supplies over rock and mud trails. Women and children tossed stray rocks over the cliffside. Jackhammers required a change of drill bits every two feet. A TD18 bulldozer slipped off the cliffside twice. It was pinned in place and winched back up to relative safety—it may have been the first piece of equipment to slip, but it wasn’t the last. 

In September 1953, two machines touched blades in a symbolic meeting of top to bottom. In 1955, Minister of Highways Phil Gagliardi admitted that the town had done what experts said couldn’t be done, and celebrated the road’s “official” opening. He also paid off the outstanding shortfall of $8,700—the route had cost $1,300 per mile to build, not including the uncounted hours of volunteer labor.  

Surviving the Bella Coola

Since 1955, the road—once no more than a cliffside goat path—has been improved as much as the geography will allow. But it is still only wide enough for one vehicle and there are no guardrails protecting vehicles from the steep drop. 

The town of Bella Coola may be tiny, but it’s full of history. It’s home to the Bella Coola Valley Museum , Clayton Falls, scenic hiking trails, grizzly bears, ancient petroglyphs, and modern-day grocery stores and gas stations. For those visitors unable or unwilling to tackle the upwards trek to Anahim Lake, a ferry is available from June to September on alternate days. 

After a hearty breakfast at the Valley Inn Hotel restaurant, George suggests that I drive us back up the Bella Coola cliffside highway. When I reply, “I’d rather walk than drive, just give me a head start,” George hops behind the wheel and begins the trip uphill in low gear. 

When we’re back home—and on more solid ground—I reflect on our trip while sipping from a souvenir coffee mug. It states, “I survived the Bella Coola Highway. You can too.”

The Bella Coola part of Highway 20, also known as the Hill, runs between Anahim Lake and Bella Coola, British Columbia.

Meet the Authors

Norma is a retired teacher who loves exploring off the grid historic locations, photography, and travel. She paints and writes short fiction. She lives in British Columbia where she enjoys all four seasons.

Roadtrippers

Roadtrippers helps you find the most epic destinations and detours—from roadside attractions to natural wonders and beyond.

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Bella Coola  to  Bella Bella (McLoughlin Bay)

Schedules for your selected date and route are currently unavailable, try again later.

Bella Coola terminal is located on the central coast of BC and is a 5 minute drive west of the town of Bella Coola.

With a reservation (summer)  –  Check in at the Bella Coola Co-op parking lot  on the south side of 450 MacKenzie Street between 90 to 120 minutes prior to the scheduled sailing departure. Your booking will not be honoured and travel will be based on your order of arrival at the terminal if you arrive before booking check-in has opened, or after booking check-in has closed.

• Booking check-in opens 120 minutes prior to the scheduled departure for foot passengers and vehicles.*
• Booking check-in closes 90 minutes prior to the scheduled departure for foot passengers and vehicles.*
• Booking will be completed in the parking lot by a BC Ferries representative, who will provide instructions for travelling to the ferry for boarding at the appropriate time.

With a reservation (off-peak)  – Arrive at the terminal 60 to 90 minutes prior to the scheduled departure. Your booking will not be honoured and travel will be based on your order of arrival at the terminal if you arrive before booking check-in has opened, or after booking check-in has closed.

• Booking check-in opens 90 minutes prior to the scheduled departure for foot passengers and vehicles.*
• Booking check-in closes 60 minutes prior to the scheduled departure for foot passengers and vehicles.*

Without a reservation  – tickets can be purchased on board the ferry, space permitting. 

Travel is based on your order of arrival at the terminal.

• Ticket sales close 20 minutes prior to the scheduled sailing departure for foot passengers and vehicles.*

*Including hostled vehicles.

Dangerous goods sailings information

Note:  Schedules subject to change without notice.

Non-stop routes

Non-stop routes travel directly from the departure terminal to the destination with no stops or transfers.

Routes with stops will stop briefly at one or more terminals along the way to the final destination.

Routes with transfers will stop briefly at another terminal along the way and require passengers to disembark and board another sailing to take them to their final destination.

Thru fares between Vancouver (Tsawwassen) – Southern Gulf Islands

Thru fares provide an alternative way to travel between Vancouver (Tsawwassen) and the Southern Gulf Islands, via a connection at Victoria (Swartz Bay).

This is available for all passenger and vehicle types, at the same price as a direct ticket between Vancouver (Tsawwassen) and the Southern Gulf Islands.

If you are travelling thru fare, inform the ticket agent at your first departure terminal to receive a voucher that you will redeem at Victoria (Swartz Bay).

Bella Bella (McLoughlin Bay)  to  Bella Coola

Reservations are strongly recommended for this route.

Bella Bella terminal is located on the east coast of Campbell Island in the Central Coast region of BC. The terminal is a 5 minute drive south of the community of Bella Bella. Sailings departing from Bella Bella provide service to Port Hardy and Prince Rupert with a connector service to the central coastal communities of Shearwater, Ocean Falls and Bella Coola.

With a reservation  – Arrive at the terminal 60 to 120 minutes prior to the scheduled departure. Your booking will not be honoured and travel will be based on your order of arrival at the terminal if you arrive before booking check-in has opened, or after booking check-in has closed.

• Booking check-in opens 120 minutes prior to the scheduled departure for foot passengers and vehicles*
• Booking check-in closes 60 minutes prior to the scheduled departure for foot passengers and vehicles*

Without a reservation  – Travel is based on your order of arrival at the terminal.

• Ticket sales close 20 minutes prior to the scheduled sailing departure for foot passengers and vehicles*

*Hostled vehicles – Reservation check-in and ticket sales for hostled vehicles close 3 hours prior to the scheduled departure.

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