2015 dodge journey 3.6 p06dd

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• Engine & Transmission

Code P06DD and oil all over - help

By Mudshack February 2, 2019 in Engine & Transmission

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2015 Dodge Journey 3.6L 75,400mi

So my wife tells me that this morning she noticed the check engine light while driving to work.  Nothing sounded or acted wrong, so I told her I would check it out tonight after work.  Since it was long overdue for an oil change, I figured it had something to do with the oil.  So, I got 6quarts of synthetic and a new filter during the day.  Changed the oil when she got home.  Figured the car needed to run a bit to clear the code, so I took the family to get some Dairy Queen.  I smelled oil on the way there, and figured I might as well swing by O'Reilly's to check the code.  As I am almost there, I hear a tone and look down.  A red oil symbol briefly appeared at the bottom of the center dash computer window.  I switch over to check the oil pressure and it is down to 14psi.  Dang it!  It got down to 2psi by the time I pulled into O'Reilly's.  I pull the dip stick and NO OIL ON THE DIP STICK!!  Using my phone flashlight I am now climbing around under the car in the wet parking lot.  There is oil all over on the drivers side of the engine.  Starts midway down and oil is pulled up and dripping out.  I get the code reader from O'Reilly's and it pulled the following code:

P06DD - Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Performance / Stuck Off.

Where do I begin - other than internet searching all night?

We are taking this car from KC to Miami and back in just 3 weeks!!  I can't have it doing stuff like this while on the trip.

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Jack up the car and try and locate the leak. Then go from there. Maybe something to do with the PCV valve. Just a guess since its on the drivers side.

After doing some research online, I saw that people would get that code when their oil filter was put in upside down.  So I went and looked, nope.  Not upside down.  BUT!!!!!!  The rubber ring gasket was NOT SEATED correctly, and got cut when I initially installed it.  About 2" of it was sticking straight out.  I think that oil was coming out there and running down the back side of the housing and then worked its way around the engine and pulled up over what looks like the transmission closest to the firewall.

I also found these reasons why a P06DD code is thrown:

- Low or dirty engine oil

- Faulty Oil Pressure Sensor

- Oil Pressure Sensor harness is open or shorted

- Oil Pressure Sensor circuit poor electrical component.

Well....like I said originally, I was guessing that the extremely dirty oil (and probably low) was the reason the car threw a code.

Tomorrow morning I will drive the 10mi to O'Reillys again and have them delete the code and make the check engine light go away.  I am thinking that all will be good with whatever caused the check engine light to come on.  And I am thinking that I won't lose any more oil now that the rubber ring gasket has been installed properly (its the old one).

glad you found out the problem, when you changed the oil did your replace the old o ring on the cap with the new one supplied, i am assuming you did since you said you are using the old one now. the one thing you wrote that is odd to me is you were saying about the oil filter in backwards with the new ones cant be put in backwards as the little nose tripod wont fit in backwards unless you are using the old filters that didnt have that part built on to the filter.of course you see ever thing on the inter web, Anyways glad you caught it before any damage was done and i am sure you will be okay as you found the cause of the leak. i also change my own oil and i only hand tighten the cap as tight as i can get it by hand only, with o rings you NEVER want to tighten them to tight as it will stretch the ring and or cut them and cause a leak......i always after i change my oil and filter when i am thur i let the engine run for about 3-5 minutes then stop it let it cool look for leaks and then recheck the oil level and then for the next few days i keep a check for leaks ,you never know the crazy things that can happen after you or someone else working on your cars.....

 i remember about 15-yrs ago i was changing the oil on my truck and after i was all done i started it up and let it run for a few minutes then shut it off and let it settle for a few minutes and was checking the oil level everything was okay, i look underneath the truck for drips and oil was coming out of the side of the filter i thought wtf so i slid my clean oil pan under and shimmed back under the truck with my filter wrench and yes it was tight i though wth, so thought about it for a minute then decided to look at my old spin on filter and the oil gasket wasn't still attached to the filter, so i removed the new one and looked at the bottom of the oil pump surface,and there it was the old gasket stuck to the metal peeled it off re-wet the new gasket on the filter which i didnt really have to do as oil was everywhere by then LOL and re tightened everything and low and behold no leaks.... first time in all my years of changing oil that the gasket came off the old filter like that. so strange stuff like can happen so it pays to double check everything twice and to keep an eye on all their fluids under the hood, i still check my oil every week at least once. 

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9 hours ago, Mudshack said: After doing some research online, I saw that people would get that code when their oil filter was put in upside down.  So I went and looked, nope.  Not upside down.  BUT!!!!!!  The rubber ring gasket was NOT SEATED correctly, and got cut when I initially installed it.  About 2" of it was sticking straight out.  I think that oil was coming out there and running down the back side of the housing and then worked its way around the engine and pulled up over what looks like the transmission closest to the firewall.   I also found these reasons why a P06DD code is thrown: - Low or dirty engine oil - Faulty Oil Pressure Sensor - Oil Pressure Sensor harness is open or shorted - Oil Pressure Sensor circuit poor electrical component.   Well....like I said originally, I was guessing that the extremely dirty oil (and probably low) was the reason the car threw a code.   Tomorrow morning I will drive the 10mi to O'Reillys again and have them delete the code and make the check engine light go away.  I am thinking that all will be good with whatever caused the check engine light to come on.  And I am thinking that I won't lose any more oil now that the rubber ring gasket has been installed properly (its the old one).

actually my 2014 about 1-2 yrs came up with a warring light and it was the oil sender went bad oil pressure was pegged as high as it would go dealership said they were seeing quite a few journeys with that problem and he figured the part suppler had sent a bad batch of units to the factory and that there really wasn't a problem that i had regular oil pressure  but that the oil sender had shorted out inside itself and showing high pressure. check your readings in the evic center to see what the oil pressure is should be around 40 psi when warm and at reg driving speed.

I drove around watching the oil pressure .  All was perfect 35-42psi.  I went to O'Reilly's and reset the check engine light.  Then drove around town taking care of errands.  Check engine light stayed off and oil pressure stayed right where it should.  At the last traffic light before home, I stuck the throttle to the floor and got up to 45 as fast as I could.  It through the check engine light back on.  And when I checked the oil level at home it was a quart low.  Now it has me going hmmmmmmmmm......

take it back to OReillys  and see  what the code is , as far as the oil did you get filled right? are there any leaks? top off the oil to the correct level and keep check on it every day

Still losing oil at about a quart every 1/2hour of engine time.

I am thinking Oil Filter Housing.

If that's where it's leaking from, then yes. 

Well after a ton of online research, I think it is the oil filter housing.  Dealership said it is a known failure part.  And if they cracked it during an oil change, they would warranty the work.  But since I did the oil change myself it would be $800+ to replace it.

18 minutes ago, Mudshack said: Well after a ton of online research, I think it is the oil filter housing.  Dealership said it is a known failure part.  And if they cracked it during an oil change, they would warranty the work.  But since I did the oil change myself it would be $800+ to replace it.

yep if you broke it then its on you....check out this vidio on the oil housing and cooler unit

 check out 

• martyman.geo

15 minutes ago, Mudshack said: Well after a ton of online research, I think it is the oil filter housing.  Dealership said it is a known failure part.  And if they cracked it during an oil change, they would warranty the work.  But since I did the oil change myself it would be $800+ to replace it.

yep if you broke it then its on you.... here is a video on a 3.6 would be the same as a journey i would assume there are 3 videos so you will have to watch all three

Thank you.  

put the 2/3 wrong video here is the right one my bad

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"Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth." - Sherlock Holmes

P06DD – Engine oil pressure control – circuit stuck off

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Table of Contents

What does code p06dd mean, where is the p06dd sensor located, what are the common causes of code p06dd, what are the symptoms of code p06dd.

• Get Help with P06DD

OBD II fault code P06DD is a generic trouble code that is defined as, “Engine Oil Pressure Control – Circuit Performance Problem”, or sometimes as “Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Performance/Stuck Off”, and is set when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) detects that the engine oil pressure is above or below predefined allowable thresholds, given current operating conditions. Note that allowable pressure thresholds are different for different engines, as is the time required for the code to set while the actual oil pressure deviates from the desired when the oil pressure control solenoid is in the “ON” position.

NOTE: Note that this code only applies to vehicles with variable geometry oil pumps that can be adjusted to increase or decrease the oil pressure under different operating conditions both to satisfy changing lubrication requirements and to reduce parasitic power losses.

Although internal combustion engines have reached a very high level of technical sophistication, even the most advanced engines are only about 30 percent efficient*, with the other 70 percent going to waste in the form of heat. Most of this heat is caused by internal friction and pumping losses, and although engineers have devised several highly sophisticated combustion processes to extract more energy from liquid fuels, the problem remains that friction, pumping losses, and parasitic power losses caused by ancillary equipment, and even by critical engine components, still make modern engines about 70 percent inefficient.

* This figure is about 40 percent for diesel engines since diesel fuel contains more energy per unit of volume than gasoline does.

As a practical matter, modern internal combustion engines of all types and designs have reached a point where they can for all practical purposes, not be developed any further without essentially, rethinking the concept of liquid fuel combustion. However, with the rapid pace of developments in electric vehicle technology, no car manufacturer is going to invest hundreds of billions of dollars into developing entirely new liquid fuel combustion technologies, and the engines to go with those technologies. In fact, most major car manufacturers have ceased any further development of combustion technology in favor of developing electric cars and their related technologies.

In the real world though, large-scale adoption of electric vehicles is still a decade or two away, and in the meantime, car manufacturers still have to contend with exhaust emissions regulations that become stricter every year. So, from design, engineering, and cost perspectives, the only aspect of internal combustion engines that can still be somewhat developed is methods and ways to decrease, if not eliminate parasitic power losses caused by things like oil pumps, water pumps, radiator fans, and alternators whose output cannot be adjusted, regulated, or even turned off completely for short periods.

Thus, as far as oil pumps are concerned, the problem is that their output is fixed, and tied to engine speed. Put differently, this means that an oil pump delivers a fixed volume of oil per engine revolution, and as the engine speed increases, the pump delivers more “fixed volumes” of oil per unit of time, which increases the total volume of oil the pump delivers. However, since the oil pump has a fixed geometry, and, therefore, a fixed output per engine revolution, the oil pressure remains constant on many engines. Again, put differently, this means that increasing the engine speed on many engines increases only the volume of oil the pump displaces, while the overall pressure remains constant, or varies very little.

As a result of the above, the high amount of torque required to drive the oil pump at low engine speeds robs especially small-displacement engines of significant amounts of power. More to the point though, the effort required to drive the oil pump also requires more fuel than is strictly necessary, which has the corollary that increased fuel consumption creates additional waste heat and exhaust emissions.

To address this issue, engineers have devised variable geometry oil pumps, meaning that the internal components of these oil pumps can be adjusted to vary the volume of oil (and, in some designs, the pressure) the pump delivers per engine revolution at different engine speeds. There are too many different designs of variable oil pumps in use today to provide explanations of how each design works, but below is a generic description of the basic operating principles of these types of oil pumps-

All variable geometry oil pumps contain a moving part that alters the size of the inlet and outlet ports relative to each other. This movement is typically controlled via a computer-controlled solenoid that moves the moveable “gate” to a position commanded by one or more control modules. This movement has the effect of changing the diameters of both the inlet and outlet ports; by decreasing the inlet port, and increasing the diameter of the outlet port, the engine sacrifices less power to drive the oil pump, thus decreasing parasitic power losses significantly.

However, this is tied strictly to engine speed. At low engine speeds, the engine’s lubrication demands are significantly lower than at high engine speeds, so control modules are programmed to match the engine’s lubrication to the engine speed. This ensures that while the engine receives less oil at low engine speeds, the engine is supplied with oil at the oil pump’s maximum capacity at high engine speeds to satisfy the engine’s high lubrication demands at high engine speeds.

Since the lubrication system’s correct operation is critically important for efficient engine operation, the PCM and other control modules monitor the actual oil pressure vs. the desired oil pressure in the engine continuously via dedicated oil pressure and other engine sensors. Therefore, if the PCM (or other control modules) detects a defect, failure, or malfunction in the oil pump’s control solenoid’s control circuit that prevents effective control of the coil control solenoid,  one or more control modules will recognize that it/they cannot control the oil pressure effectively, and will set code P06DD and illuminate a warning light that may or may not flash red.

This image shows an example of a typical variable geometry oil pump- in this case, a pump from a GM application.

In this example, the distance between the red and green arrows represents the range of travel of the moveable part, which is indicated here by the orange arrow. The large spring that is shown by the yellow arrow has the twin functions of keeping the moveable part stationary when the oil control solenoid is not energized and returning the moveable part to a programmed rest position when the oil pressure control solenoid is deactivated.

Note, though, that oil pumps of all types and descriptions, including variable geometry oil pumps, are typically located inside the engine, and are therefore not accessible without removing and dismantling the engine. We do not recommend that non-professional mechanics attempt this procedure, so if you suspect that you may be experiencing issues with the oil pump on your vehicle, the wisest course of action would be to seek professional assistance with diagnosis and repair.

Some common causes of code P06DD could include one or more of the following-

• Damaged, burnt, shorted, corroded, or disconnected wiring and/or electrical connectors in the oil control solenoid’s control circuits (Most common)
• Low oil levels (Common)
• A restricted or clogged screen on the oil pick-up tube in the oil pan
• Incorrectly installed oil pick-up tube during engine assembly in an assembly plant- while this is not very common, it is also not unheard of
• The use of dirty, degraded, contaminated, or unsuitable engine oil
• Defective or damaged oil control solenoid
• Defective engine speed sensor(s)
• Defective or malfunctioning oil pressure sensors, but note that this will usually be indicated by one or more dedicated oil pressure trouble codes
• Mechanical failure of the oil pump
• Excessive mechanical wear of crankshaft and main bearings
• Mechanical engine failure
• Stuck open or defective oil pressure relief valve
• Failed or failing PCM or other control modules, but note that since is relatively rare, the fault must be sought elsewhere before any control module is reprogrammed or replaced

Some common symptoms of code P06DD could include one or more of the following-

• Stored trouble code and an illuminated warning light that may or may not flash
• Multiple additional codes may be present along with P06DD, depending on the application and the nature of the problem
• Valve gear may be noisy at high engine speeds if the oil pump is stuck in Low-Pressure mode
• Variable valve/camshaft timing systems may not work at high engine speeds if the oil pump is stuck in Low-Pressure mode
• if the oil pump is stuck in Low-Pressure mode for extended periods, catastrophic engine failure may occur if the engine is operated at high engine speeds for long periods

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P06DD intermittent how to determine if pump or other problem? This code has been appearing for a couple months now. I clear it and it may set next day or next week. It sets usually when my dashboard oil pressure creeps above 55 psi. Usually when I start out on a drive. After driving a while the pressure returns to “normal” around 42 psi. Or if I turn the engine off when hot the pressure is normal when started and code does not set. At idle and operating temperature and the oil pressure has remained in the 42 psi range the pressure falls to about 23 psi. Falling to this value at idle does not set the code. The only event that sets the code is temporary high pressure on start of a drive. Moving to the higher code-setting pressure does not always occur, at start of a drive. What do these symptoms suggest if anything? My oil Dexos 0-20 is clean and topped up at all times. I have changed my oil pressure sensor and my thermostat. Engine runs at 220 deg F.

Hello Roger. I think, if not the wiring, then it could be the oil pump solenoid. When you say intermittent, it makes me think of a wiring issue, but, with the oil pressure fluctuating like that, it could be the engine oil pump solenoid having debris, or something like metal shavings on it. Or just defective.

P06DD intermittent how to determine if pump or other problem?

I have a 2014 chevy silverado 1500 lt 5.3l, the code po6dd came up, trying to figure out the problem.

That is the best explanation I ran into the net, searching for information regard this issue. Thanks alot!

Thanks Tal! Please note we welcome donations to help keep us alive. We publish articles every month.

I have Silverado 2016 1500 5300 engen And have p06dd low level oil and bad oil …I chang oil and oil filter and reset error cap My truck good and normal change between 4and 8 cylinder but after time cod p06dd active aging…and I reset cod and my Silverado will be good and after time returns to p06dd “oil pressure control solenoid valve stuck off “ and the vehicle work with just 8 cylinders and if I rest error cod and clear it it will be no in normal

Ahmed. It sounds like your engine oil control pump solenoid is stuck, or malfunctioning. Also, engine oil can build up major sludge in your oil pan. I would have your oil pan cleaned out. Their may be sludge preventing the oil control pump solenoid from operating.

I solve problem by cleaning engine with flash liquid for engine …but after 6 month today the code p06dd return again🙁

What did you use to clean the sludge? What flash liquid?

Ahmed. I’m glad it worked for a while. What kind of oil are you using? If it is pennzoil, then pennzoil is actually a big sludge causer. It sounds like the sludge buildup is back.

Dodge DTC P06DD

• ENGINE OIL LEVEL LOW
• INCORRECT ENGINE OIL FILTER
• INSUFFICIENT OIL PRESSURE DUE TO A MECHANICAL FAILURE IN THE OILING SYSTEM
• ENGINE MECHANICAL FAILURE
• DUAL STAGE OIL PUMP

Troubleshooting P06DD: What It Means + How To Fix It?

An OBD2 scanner is a great purchase for anyone looking to maintain and repair their car.  

However, the errors an OBD2 scanner returns can be generic and confusing. P06DD is one such error. 

The good news is: You can read about the different codes to prepare yourself for a rainy day. Here’s one such guide to P06DD. 

Here’s what we’ll cover:

What Does P06DD Code Mean?

What are the symptoms of the p06dd code, what causes the p06dd code to appear on your diagnostic scan tool, how do you fix the p06dd code, how do you prevent p06dd, final thoughts: troubleshooting p06dd: what it means + how to fix it, frequently asked questions.

P06DD indicates that your vehicle has too low or too high oil pressure . It can be due to several seasons. 

Let’s walk through how the engine maintains an oil pressure in the oil pressure control circuit to understand why it happens. 

The oil pump in your car pumps the oil in the oil circuit and maintains the oil pressure through an adjustable opening in the oil path. That adjustable opening is controlled by a solenoid valve .

The solenoid valve adjusts in the two regulated pressure stages, i.e., high-pressure mode regulation at high speeds and low-pressure mode regulation at low speeds. Put another way, the solenoid valve must maintain a specific oil pressure depending on the engine speed.

Besides that, the PCM collects the pressure readings using the pressure sensors throughout the engine to adjust the solenoid valve according to the engine load, oil temperature, and operating conditions.  

However, if the oil pressure is too high or too low than the desired oil pressure, the PCM returns the code P06DD error. 

• Glowing check engine’s light
• Noisy engine
• No oil pressure
• Poor engine power
• Low vehicle performance
• High engine vibrations
• Noisy valve gear
• Poor quality idling

P06DD code can appear on your OBD2 scanner or other diagnostic equipment for various reasons:

• Low oil level
• Clogged up oil inlet port screen in the oil sump
• Damaged wiring or electrical connectors of the solenoid control circuit
• Dirty or old engine oil
• Defective readings by the engine speed sensor
• Defective oil pressure sensor
• Failure of the oil pump
• Leakage of oil leading to low oil pressure
• Excessive wear and tear due to mechanical failure of the crankshaft
• Replacement is required for the oil filter

Here’s how can resolve the P06DD code:

• Add more engine oil after checking oil levels : A high engine oil level increases the oil flowing in the oil path.
• Change engine oil if the oil is dirty or old : Dirty oil results in poor engine health and clogged oil intake port’s filter. The blocked port restricts the oil entry into the pump while hindering pressure buildup in the circuit.
• Replace the engine oil filter : Replacement of the oil filter cleans the oil, maintaining the excellent health of your engine.
• Locate leaks and take proper action to stop leakage : Leaking oil decreases engine oil’s pressure. Fix it to maintain oil pressure within the engine.
• Check the wiring and positioning of the engine oil pressure sensor : Fix the oil pressure sensor to feed accurate oil pressure values to the PCM.
• Replace the engine oil pump assembly : Replace the assembly for efficient working of the solenoid.

Prevention is better than cure. Let’s see how you can prevent P06DD code altogether. 

• Change oil after regular intervals as recommended by your manufacturer. It ensures good engine health, proper lubrication, a clean oil filter, and a clean sump strainer in the oil pan.
• Keep an eye out for engine oil leaks. It saves your engine from insufficient oil pressure levels.
• A high-end engine oil pump avoids the solenoid stuck position and ensures that the solenoid valve operates as desired.

If PCM triggers code P06DD on your diagnostic equipment or OBD2 scanner, start looking for possible causes to protect the engine from damage. 

We’ve discussed some of the common causes above. Share yours in the comments as well.

And for more information on all things engine-oils-related, explore our blog .  

What is the engine oil pressure control solenoid valve?

The pressure control valve of the engine oil operates electromechanically. It is one of the engine oil pump features that ensures a regulated oil pressure supply to the engine.

What is the oil pressure sensor?

An oil pressure sensor detects oil pressure within the engine. It is one of the main features of the oil pressure control circuit for maintaining oil pressure in the engine.

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Engine code P06DD Check Engine light

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make model year etc?  

2011 Dodge Challenger SE  

djpiezo said: View attachment 368881 View attachment 368889 Is this something to be worried about the 1st time It happened it threw my car into limp mode.after I pulled over and shut the car off and fired the engine backup it was fine and I erased the code has anybody else encountered this problem before? Click to expand...

Engine Light P06DD Problem I am constantly told I have the P06DD Error code for Engine Light because of wrong filter. FUNNY happens even when dealership changes the oil.  

i haven't had an oil change or a oil filter change my car has been in a body shop over a month and I just gotten my car back about 2 weeks ago.i checked my oil stick dip this morning and its very thin oil on my dipstick I think its time for an oil change. but ive since cleared that engine code and it hasn't popped back on since  

You lookup the code?  

Did you fix this?  

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[SOLVED] P06Dd Code: Dual Stage Oil Pump Stuck Low – How To Fix It!

If you see the engine light or service engine soon warning light illuminated on your dashboard, it could be due to the automobile fault code P06DD. This code is typically caused by low or dirty engine oil, a faulty oil pressure sensor, an open or shorted oil pressure sensor harness, or a poor electrical component in the oil pressure sensor circuit. To fix this issue, you should visually inspect the wiring harness and connectors, checking for any damage or corrosion.

Additionally, look out for broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded connector pins. The repair time for this fault code is estimated to be around 1.0 hour. It’s important to address this issue promptly to prevent any further damage to your vehicle.

P06Dd Fault Code Symptoms: Is Your Car Experiencing These Issues?

If you see the Engine Light ON or the Service Engine Soon Warning Light, it could be a sign of the p06dd fault code.

• The symptoms of the automobile fault code P06DD include the Engine Light being ON or the Service Engine Soon Warning Light being illuminated.

Unraveling The Mystery: What Causes Fault Code P06Dd?

The automobile fault code p06dd can be caused by low or dirty engine oil, a faulty oil pressure sensor, an open or shorted oil pressure sensor harness, or a poor electrical component in the oil pressure sensor circuit.

• The fault code P06DD can be caused by: low or dirty engine oil, a faulty oil pressure sensor, an open or shorted oil pressure sensor harness, and poor electrical components in the oil pressure sensor circuit.

Fixing Code P06Dd: Steps To Resolve The Fault In Your Automobile

To fix the automobile fault code p06dd, start by visually inspecting the wiring harness, connectors, and components for any damage or corrosion.

• To fix the automobile fault code p06dd, first, check the possible causes mentioned above.
• Then, visually inspect the wiring harness and connectors related to the issue.
• Look for any damaged components and check for broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded connector pins.
• The estimated repair time for this fix is 1.0 hour.

Cracking The Code: P06Dd Fixing Cost And Complexity Unveiled!

The automobile fault code P06DD can be diagnosed and fixed within an estimated repair time of 1.0 hour.

Most auto repair shops typically charge between $75 and $150 per hour for this type of repair.

P06Dd Fault Code: Understanding The Mysterious Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit

The P06DD fault code refers to a problem with the dual stage oil pump in the engine. This pump is responsible for maintaining a regulated oil pressure supply by adjusting the displacement of the pump. It has two regulated pressure stages, low and high, controlled by an onoff solenoid.

Under normal conditions, the pump operates in low mode at idle and switches to high mode between 3000 and 4000 RPM. The maximum oil pressure is limited to 1000 kPa (145 psi) to prevent damage to critical moving parts.

The P06DD code indicates that the dual stage oil pump is stuck in the low mode. This can lead to insufficient oil pressure, which can cause damage to the engine. It is important to address this issue promptly to avoid further complications.

If you see the engine light on or the service engine soon warning light, it could be due to the fault code P06DD. This code can be caused by low or dirty engine oil, a faulty oil pressure sensor, an open or shorted oil pressure sensor harness, or a poor electrical component in the oil pressure sensor circuit. To fix this issue, you should visually inspect the wiring harness and connectors, check for damaged components, and look for any broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded connector pins.

If you’re dealing with the P06DD fault code and your engine light is on, there are a few things you can do to fix it. First, check your engine oil level and make sure it’s not low or dirty. Next, inspect the oil pressure sensor and its harness for any signs of damage or shorts. Take a close look at the wiring harness and connectors, checking for broken or corroded pins. By visually inspecting these components, you can identify any issues and take the necessary steps to resolve the problem.

When resolving the P06DD fault code, start by checking for damaged components or corroded connector pins. This can be done by visually inspecting the related wiring harness and connectors. Look for any broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded pins. By addressing these issues, you can effectively fix the problem and get rid of the Engine Light or Service Engine Soon Warning Light. Don’t forget to also consider other possible causes such as low or dirty engine oil, a faulty oil pressure sensor, or a poor electrical component in the oil pressure sensor circuit.

If your engine light is on, it could be due to a low or dirty engine oil, a faulty oil pressure sensor, or issues with the oil pressure sensor circuit.

To fix this, visually inspect the wiring harness and connectors, check for damaged components, and look for any broken or corroded pins.

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P06DD - Changing the oil pump or just the solenoid?

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I have the dreaded P06DD code on my 2012 Charger V6. I've verified the correct Mopar oil filter, oil weight and changed it twice now. I've also changed the oil pressure sensor under the intake. Code keeps coming back eventually. I'm guessing it's time to drop the oil pan and go to work. It seems the solenoid on the dual stage pump is likely the issue. I've watched several videos on replacing the pump, but they were on FWD cars. 1. Is this easier or harder on the RWD engine? Are following the FWD videos enough to get the job done, or are there other issues I need to know? 2. I see the now they sell just the solenoid. Can the solenoid be replaced without pulling the pump? Any other advice is appreciated. Thanks!  

If you just drop the small metal pan you can swap the pump, but you will need a special swivel socket to get one of the pump bolts--without it you would have to remove the entire aluminum pan. Let me find the Dave Pike (Motor City Mechanic) video that shows just how to do it.. I'll post the link as soon as I find it.  

Those are the videos I watched for the FWD V6. Do you still need that socket on the RWD?  

Here you go - - 4 part series that shows you how to do it by just dropping the tin pan using "The Short Cut Method" He was doing a FWD, and I'm NOT sure there is enough room to get the pump out with just dropping the tin pan on the RWD, it looks to be much smaller and you may have to watch his other 5 part series that he call "by the book" method where he removes the entire aluminum pan Part 1: Part 2: Part 3: Part 4: By the book method part 1:  

Yes, you'll need the socket -- I just hope the tin pan leaves you enough room to get the pump out without having to remove the entire aluminum pan  

Any updates? I'm in the same boat. I have a 2014 Dodge Charger SE, 3.6L V6 and I need to remove and replace my oil pump due to a P06DE DTC code.  

Actually there is. I just changed the pump on Sunday. It can come through the small metal oil pan without removing the larger aluminum pan. But it's not easy. You don't need the short snap-on universal socket, but you will need something to make some turns. I used a 1/4" flex extension and a 1/4" wobble extension. The more wrench and socket options you have, the better. Prying the metal oil pan off is a *****. I used Permatex black silicone to seal it back up and not the FelPro gasket. You have to remove five bolts, including one for the pickup tube bracket. And then the pick up tube has to be unbolted from the pump before getting the pump out. Make sure to get the blue o-ring for the pick up tube. The wiring for the solenoid is very short. Makes getting everything back in place a pain. Job sucks. It's a puzzle that took six hours start to finish (this included a lot of staring at things trying to decide if it would come out or not). Small hands help. I bit the bullet and bought the Mopar part at the dealer. Seems most online places are out of stock. I didn't want to use aftermarket and then second guess the job.  

b4black said: Actually there is. I just changed the pump on Sunday. It can come through the small metal oil pan without removing the larger aluminum pan. But it's not easy. You don't need the short snap-on universal socket, but you will need something to make some turns. I used a 1/4" flex extension and a 1/4" wobble extension. The more wrench and socket options you have, the better. Prying the metal oil pan off is a * . I used Permatex black silicone to seal it back up and not the FelPro gasket. You have to remove five bolts, including one for the pickup tube bracket. And then the pick up tube has to be unbolted from the pump before getting the pump out. Make sure to get the blue o-ring for the pick up tube. The wiring for the solenoid is very short. Makes getting everything back in place a pain. Job sucks. It's a puzzle that took six hours start to finish (this included a lot of staring at things trying to decide if it would come out or not). Small hands help. I bit the bullet and bought the Mopar part at the dealer. Seems most online places are out of stock. I didn't want to use aftermarket and then second guess the job. Click to expand...

could you post the order/ steps you did to put the pump back in. I’m having some trouble.  

I unclipped the solenoid wiring from the pump, fed the connector to the hole in the block and then pushed the clip back onto the pump (not easy). Then stick the pickup tube in the pan, shove the pump onto the tube and screw them together. Then finagle the pump in place and work on the five bolts. Helps to get the chain tucked off to the side.  

I have a 2014 Dodge Charger SE and need to replace my oil pump as well, do you have to mess with the timing chain at all? I have a quote from a shop telling me I also have to replace the timing chain.  

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P06DD code : 2015 Promaster 1500 3.6

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I have the dreaded P06DD code,, If I get over 4-5K RPM the CEL light flashes and the van bucks/looses power. What info I could find,, it could be the filter, oil pressure sending unit, oil pump. 1st thought was to get a oil filter cap mechanical gauge adapter,, everyone is out of stock, everyone. What are the steps to diagnose this? Should I just replace the sendeing unit? I "Thought" I read somewhere this could be done WITHOUT removing the intake?  

i had the similar code and went through the process. Change the filter, then oil pressure sending unit due to leaky oil filter/cooler housing then finally changing the oil pump which solve the issue. The issue with my oil pump was the solenoid, it was caked up with oil sludge(it was a Hertz rental in it former life) and blocking the tiny oil inlet valve on the solenoid when it was cold. I did avoid the P066DD code for a long time if I let the engine completely warm up before putting into gear, assuming the warm oil soften up the blockage enough but got progressively worse. I'll try erase the code and test if you still have the code if you let you engine warm up before driving it. If that is the case, then the solenoid is probably the issue and you are in luck since it way easier to change then the oil pressure sender.  

Uvan said: i had the similar code and went through the process. Change the filter, then oil pressure sending unit due to leaky oil filter/cooler housing then finally changing the oil pump which solve the issue. The issue with my oil pump was the solenoid, it was caked up with oil sludge(it was a Hertz rental in it former life) and blocking the tiny oil inlet valve on the solenoid when it was cold. I did avoid the P066DD code for a long time if I let the engine completely warm up before putting into gear, assuming the warm oil soften up the blockage enough but got progressively worse. I'll try erase the code and test if you still have the code if you let you engine warm up before driving it. If that is the case, then the solenoid is probably the issue and you are in luck since it way easier to change then the oil pressure sender. Click to expand...

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P06DD Dodge Challenger: A Common Code With Uncommon Fixes

Chrysler-made vehicles, such as the Dodge Challenger, commonly use an oil pump with a high-pressure mode and a low-pressure mode. P06DD is stored in the PCM’s (powertrain control module) memory when the engine is stuck in low-pressure mode.

P06DD is a very common code to find in the Challenger. P06DD can be caused by a failure in the dual-stage oil pump, More often than not, clearing this code will not involve dealing with the oil pump.

P06DD Definition: Dual Stage Oil Pump – Stuck Low

The definition of Chrysler P06DD consists of two parts. The first part is the part of the vehicle that is having the issue, and the second is what that issue is.

Dual Stage Oil Pump

Your Dodge Challenger uses a dual-stage oil pump. The design uses seven vanes and a moving element to regulate oil pressure and keep it at a near-constant level. It can run in low or high-pressure mode depending on the engine’s needs.

• Low-Pressure Mode – This mode is activated when the control solenoid is on. It keeps your Challenger’s oil pressure around 29 psi and is active from idle to around 3000 RPM.
• High-Pressure Mode – High-pressure mode is activated somewhere between 3000-4000 RPM and keeps the engine’s oil pressure around 65 psi. It can kick in earlier if the oil and coolant temperatures are low.

Maximum oil pressure is limited to 145 psi by a relief valve and monitored by the Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) sensor.

The engine goes into low-pressure mode when the oil pressure control solenoid is switched on.

The dual-stage oil pump is stuck in the low-pressure mode described above, which means the engine may not be getting enough oil pressure above 3k RPM.

Dodge Challenger P06DD: Symptoms

Assuming there are no other codes, the only symptom you should notice with P06DD is the check engine light.

Dodge Challenger P06DD: Causes & Diagnosis

Below, we’ve listed some of the most common problems that can cause P06DD in the Dodge Challenger. It’s not often caused by a bad oil pump (a common misdiagnosis).

Check TSB’s

The first thing you need to do is check to see if there are any technical service bulletins for your model year Challenger. Some years (particularly before 2017) require an ECM reflash to fix this problem.

There are plenty of TSB sites where you can look these up.

Oil Problems

If the engine oil is too low , your Challenger’s dual pressure pump can’t increase oil pressure past the low-pressure range. The first thing you should do if you have P06DD is check the oil. Dirty oil can cause P06DD. Any oil that has lost its viscosity can cause this code.

Wrong Oil Filter

Penstar engines will often get P06DD when the wrong type of oil filter was used. If you’ve recently had your oil changed and the check engine light came on, this is a very likely cause.

When replacing your Challenger’s oil filter, verify the oil pressure bypass valve is intact. A missing bypass valve is a less likely cause, but as long as you’re down there anyway, you might as well check.

Change the oil filter to the MOPAR Oil filter recommended in the owner’s manual. This is a very common fix for P06DD.

Oil Pressure Sensor

The oil pressure sensor is one of the most common fixes for P06DD. Here’s a video on diagnosing and replacing one on a Chrysler 3.6L engine.

The oil pressure sensor could have a wiring issue (short or open). But, it takes a decent amount of digging to get to the harness. As you can see in the video above, you must pull a lot of the engine apart to get to it.

Mechanical Issue

Here are some of the common mechanical issues that can cause P06DD in the Dodge Challenger:

• Bad/Missing oil bypass valve
• Bad dual-stage oil pump
• Use of an oil filter adapter

P06DD in the Dodge Challenger can be a challenge to diagnose. But, there many of the common fixes are super easy to check. Good luck!