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The ultimate California road trip from Palm Springs to San Francisco

By Toby Skinner

The ultimate California road trip from Palm Springs to San Francisco

California's national parks give good iconography. Many a screensaving computer will default to crisp renderings of the imperious slab of El Capitan in Yosemite, the magically eroded striations of Death Valley's Zabriskie Point or the Joshua Trees in the park of the same name, so called by Mormon settlers who through the spiky yucca brevifolia looked like the biblical figure, arms upturned in prayer.

Culture has been layered onto these spaces like sedimentary rock Ansel Adams' first photograph at Yosemite aged 12 Gram...

Culture has been layered onto these spaces like sedimentary rock: Ansel Adams' first photograph at Yosemite, aged 12; Gram Parsons' strung-out death at Joshua Tree , his coffin burned at Cap Rock as approaching police lights lit up the desert sky. Like California as a whole, they feel hardwired into us; a series of dreams written by film directors, artists, evangelists and nerds.

My ultimate destination is San Francisco but I start from Palm Springs in a white Dodge Challenger the muscliest car...

My ultimate destination is San Francisco, but I start from Palm Springs in a white Dodge Challenger, the muscliest car available, leaving behind the beautiful and ironic people at the Ace Hotel & Swim Club, the oddly sterile mid-century-modern homes with their Keep Out signs, and the sense of unease I've had here ever since my sister got heat stroke and saw ants climbing up the wallpaper in a strange motel room on a family holiday 30 years ago.

From the southern entrance of Joshua Tree the prickly emptiness is punctuated by amateur filmmakers and slackliners...

From the southern entrance of Joshua Tree , the prickly emptiness is punctuated by amateur film-makers and slack-liners among rock formations that look like they could have been made of Styrofoam on a studio backlot.

Later these cool kids on Parsons pilgrimages will gaze at the stars after swaying to the bands at Pappy  Harriet's in...

Later, these cool kids on Parsons pilgrimages will gaze at the stars after swaying to the bands at Pappy & Harriet's in Pioneertown, the old live-in Western movie set that has become the spiritual home of jangly desert rock.

I head away from the Yucca Valley passing the Googie sign at Roy's Motel and Caf the subject of a thousand retro...

I head away from the Yucca Valley, passing the Googie sign at Roy's Motel and Café, the subject of a thousand retro photoshoots, then take a detour via Mojave and its aeroplane graveyard, where rusting Boeing 747s shimmer in the haze.

From here it's just a few hours to the fierce beauty of Death Valley. It's not quite 50°C but I can imagine the feelings...

From here, it's just a few hours to the fierce beauty of Death Valley. It's not quite 50°C, but I can imagine the feelings of the lost pioneers it was named after. This is where the Californian Dream died scrabbling in the dust, among the snakes and dry salt flats, leaving gold rush ghost towns such as Ballarat, where a man called Rock in an oil-smeared vest serves moonshine from a trailer park.

It only emphasises the majesty of spots such as Zabriskie Point the kind of place that made Ansel Adams beg that...

It only emphasises the majesty of spots such as Zabriskie Point, the kind of place that made Ansel Adams beg that American rocks ought to be worshipped like European cathedrals.

The best new restaurants in the world: 2024 Hot List

CNT Editors

2024 Readers' Choice Awards Survey

CNT Editors , CN Traveller

The best new hotels in the world: 2024 Hot List

The road to Yosemite feels like a miracle of shifting geography and opportunity, as sand morphs into Thoreauvian woodsiness.

The town of Bodie not far from Yosemite's eastern entrance seems wholesome somehow. Stepping out of the car I can see my...

The town of Bodie, not far from Yosemite's eastern entrance, seems wholesome somehow. Stepping out of the car, I can see my breath.

Inside the park lawless desert has been replaced by bears and rangers in pressed shirts speed limits and rest stops. And...

Inside the park, lawless desert has been replaced by bears and rangers in pressed shirts; speed limits and rest stops. And yet, the sights of the Half Dome and the Tunnel View, with El Capitan on the left, are not diminished by the selfie sticks or all those screensavers.

They are impervious to the humanity's transposed meaning. We are not the stars of our own movies they seem to be saying....

They are impervious to the humanity's transposed meaning. We are not the stars of our own movies, they seem to be saying. We are infinitesimal specks in a world of beauty and possibility, lucky just to be passing through.

Keep scrolling for more images of Toby's California road trip

Like this? Now read:

Go on an epic virtual road trip through California

Are road trips the best way to travel?

The best road movies ever – and where they were filmed

Bedroom at the Phoenix Hotel San Francisco

Bedroom at the Phoenix Hotel, San Francisco

Pool at the Phoenix Hotel San Francisco

Pool at the Phoenix Hotel, San Francisco

Yosemite chapel

Yosemite chapel

Kings Highway restaurant at the Ace Hotel Palm Springs

King’s Highway restaurant at the Ace Hotel, Palm Springs

Fishermans Wharf San Francisco

Fisherman’s Wharf, San Francisco

Sunset at Twin Peaks

Sunset at Twin Peaks

Roys Motel

Roy’s Motel

On the road from Palm Springs

On the road from Palm Springs

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Condé Nast Traveler: The 9 Best Hotels in Palm Springs

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“Palm Springs has been through a multitude of incarnations over the last century—from Old Hollywood hangout, to spring break headquarters, to struggling tourist town, to one of California’s most beloved and unique resort cities. That last one is a title it proudly holds today, after reinventing itself as a glamorous desert getaway. To get here, it rode the wave of mid-century modernism’s rebirth to become internationally renowned for its architecture, art and design, one-of-a-kind vintage shops, endless outdoor activities, and the hot spots A-listers descend upon during the juggernaut that is the Coachella music festival.

The best Palm Springs hotels are as wide-ranging as the area’s visitors; whether you’re seeking a tranquil boutique hotel, sprawling resort, or retro design motel with a shiny facelift, it’s as easy to find the perfect place to stay as it is to spend all day sitting by a sparkling pool, in dreamy desert weather with nothing but mountain views for miles. Here’s where to find them..”

Parker Palm Springs Outdoor Fire Pit

[Read the full article at cntraveler.com]

conde nast travel palm springs

Kimpton Rowan, Holiday House, Rossi in Palm Springs make Condé Nast best new hotels in US list

conde nast travel palm springs

The Kimpton Rowan, Holiday House and The Rossi – all in Palm Springs – have been named among the Best New Hotels in the U.S. by Condé Nast Traveler.

The list , released Tuesday, includes 11 California hotels – most located in Southern California – with Palm Springs having the most from any one city.

“We are so excited and proud that three of our hotels in Palm Springs have made the ‘top’ list, more than any other destination,” Mary Jo Ginther, director of the Palm Springs Bureau of Tourism, said in a press release.

“This truly is a testament to the unique character of the boutique hotels in Palm Springs, be they under 10 rooms or 150,” Ginther said. “The combination of a mid-century aesthetic, old world charm, and exceptional outdoor spaces defines the feel of Palm Springs, and these three hotels have captured that vibe perfectly.”

REBRANDING: The Rossi adds to Palm Springs' boutique hotel glow

COOL: I got to tour The Rowan which opens Friday, and spoiler alert: It's pretty darn cool

HOLIDAY HOUSE: Don't expect to watch TV at this boutique hotel. But, there's Wi-Fi

The seven-story, 153-room Kimpton Rowan, with its rooftop restaurant, bar and pool, opened in November offering expansive views of the Coachella Valley and surrounding San Jacinto mountains.

“Though built from the ground up, the property’s mid-century aesthetic feels very old-school. The sprawling lobby boasts a library with floor to ceiling bookshelves, and a two-story, picture window looking out on the San Jacinto mountains,” Condé Nast editors wrote. “It’s all about the view from the rooftop, either while dining at the restaurant, 4 Saints, or having a poolside cocktail.”

The Rowan, at 100 W. Tahquitz Canyon Way, is the only Kimpton property to make the list.

Recognition by a major tourism publication such as Conde Nast has been a major goal for the hotel since it opened, general manager Abe Liao said.

The hotel’s inaugural season has beat expectations, he said.

“We’re looking forward to Q2 and Q3 to be above market share as well. It will be slower, but we feel confident we will have a strong summer and shoulder season,” Liao said.

“It’s special also to be acknowledged as the only Kimpton and as one of just three hotels in Palm Springs,” Liao said.

The Holiday House is a 28-room boutique hotel, at 200 W. Arenas Road, which had operated as The Chase until PRG Investment & Management bought the property in 2016 in partnership with Jeff Brock and Richard Crisman. It reopened last June as the Holiday House – the hotel’s original name when it opened in 1951. 

Los Angeles-based PRG also owns the Sparrows Lodge in Palm Springs and the newly renovated and reopened Sands Hotel & Spa in Indian Wells. 

“The recently remodeled Holiday House in Palm Springs has all the luxurious amenities of a large hotel, but with an intimate, relaxed atmosphere,” Condé Nast editors wrote. “Points for its pristine white facade, impressive art collection (including David Hockney and Roy Liechtenstein), and gorgeous pool surrounded by mountains and towering palm trees.”

Holiday House general manager Jackie Mendez called inclusion on the list “a wonderful accolade” for the hotel and city.

“It’s great to see the city get this type of recognition on a national stage and we are proud to have Holiday House recognized as part of that conversation for its design and hospitality,”  she said.

“It’s an important achievement for our team and certainly helps further elevate the property’s profile with guests and locals alike, which is great,” Mendez added. 

The eight-room Rossi Hotel, at 375 W Arenas Road, in Palm Springs’ Historic Tennis Club neighborhood, has been a hotel destination since the 1920s, originally known as The Wigwam. It reopened in 2017 as The Rossi and was ranked by Trip Advisor as the No. 2 Best Small Hotel in the U.S. in 2016.

“Walking into The Rossi feels more like walking into a home than into a hotel – it’s intimate, quiet, and wonderfully run by Marina Rossi and her daughter, Avalon,” Condé Nast editors wrote. “The small lobby has just a laptop and fireplace, and opens onto the incredibly green and lush walled courtyard. The downtown location is walking distance to everything you need.”

Hearing that their hotel had been included on the list, the Rossis said they are “incredibly honored and grateful to have been included among such exceptional international properties.” 

Being such a small property, the Rossis rely heavily on word of mouth.

“We have no PR company, no advertising budget and do not list on any of the hotel booking websites, and solely rely on our social media and incredible base of repeat and loyal guests,” they said.

“We are grateful that Condé Nast Traveler has showcased such a unique, small, privately owned hotel," they said, adding that such an opportunity to gain this type of exposure, is not something they could have otherwise afforded.

“We are excited to see where The Rossi brand will go in the future,” Marina and Avalon Rossi said “We have so many exciting ideas and plans.”

Desert Sun reporter Sherry Barkas covers Tourism and Families. She can be reached at [email protected] or (760) 778-4694. Follow her on Twitter @TDSSherryBarkas

Visit Greater Palm Springs

Greater Palm Springs & Properties Honored with Condé Nast Traveler's 2018 Readers Choice Awards

(Greater Palm Springs, CA) - October 10, 2018  – Condé Nast Traveler announced the results of its 31st annual Readers’ Choice Awards with a total of seven Greater Palm Springs hotels and resorts making the list. Additionally, the destination was named in the top 15 for "The Best Small Cities in the U.S." The Kimpton Rowan garnered the #1 ranking as “Top Hotel in Southern California” and L’Horizon Resort & Spa earned honors as #1 for “Top Resorts in Southern California” and #4 for “Best Resorts in the World.”

The Best Resorts in the World

4. L’Horizon Resort & Spa , Palm Springs

Top Hotels in Southern California

1. Kimpton Rowan Palm Springs Hotel , Palm Springs (Score: 97.88)

10. Colony Palms Hotel, Palm Springs (Score: 96.2)

Top Resorts in Southern California

1.   L’Horizon Resort & Spa , Palm Springs (Score: 99.7)

10. La Quinta Resort & Club , La Quinta (Score: 95.9)

16. Miramonte Indian Wells Resort & Spa , Indian Wells (Score: 92.93)

20. Parker Palm Springs , Palm Springs (Score: 90.95)

23. The Ritz-Carlton, Rancho Mirage , Rancho Mirage (Score: 86.79)

Best Small Cities in the U.S.

13. Palm Springs, CA  

In the category of “The Best Small Cities in the U.S.” Palm Springs, CA made the top 15, recognizing its retro-chic history and exciting new restaurants. Readers highlighted that Greater Palm Springs is one of Southern California’s cultural hot spots with antique shops, galleries and Sunnylands in Rancho Mirage.  Joshua Tree National Park was recognized for hiking and stargazing. Both Two Bunch Palms Spa Resort in Desert Hot Springs and L’Horizon Resort & Spa were highlighted for luxury experiences.

Nearly half a million Condé Nast Traveler readers submitted a recording-breaking number of responses rating their travel experiences to provide a full snapshot of where and how we travel today.

Earlier this year,  Condé Nast Traveler ranked three Greater Palm Springs hotels in the “Top 26 Best New U.S. Hotels”: Holiday House Palm Springs, Kimpton Rowan Palm Springs and The Rossi.

The Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards are the longest-running and most prestigious recognition of excellence in the travel industry and are commonly known as “the Best of the Best of Travel.”

The 2018 Readers' Choice Awards are published exclusively on Condé Nast Traveler's website at www.cntraveler.com/rca .

About Greater Palm Springs, California Greater Palm Springs is Southern California’s premier resort, special event and golf destination. Discover a place of many experiences and surprises in nine distinctive cities: Palm Springs, Desert Hot Springs, Cathedral City, Rancho Mirage, Palm Desert, Indian Wells, La Quinta, Indio and Coachella.  As a respite for mind, body and spirit, Greater Palm Springs is ready to provide you with an unparalleled sense of escape, adventure, recreation, relaxation and your own unique way to play--anytime of the year.

About  Condé Nast Traveler As the most discerning, up-to-the-minute voice in all things travel, Condé Nast Traveler is the global citizen's bible and muse, offering both inspiration and vital intel. Condé Nast Traveler is the most trusted and celebrated name in travel with 6 National Magazine Award wins and 26 nominations in its 30-year history. Advertising Age named Pilar Guzmán Editor of the Year in 2014 and CNTraveler.com attained 3 Webby Awards in 2015. For more, visit www.cntraveler.com .  For press inquiries, please contact: [email protected]

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L'horizon resort & spa.

conde nast travel palm springs

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at the L'Horizon Resort & Spa

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The adults-only L'Horizon is home to 49 bungalows spread throughout the 3-acre property. Each bungalow is equipped with an outdoor patio, Le Labo toiletries, spacious marble bathrooms, smart TVs and Nespresso coffee machines. Some of the more luxe bungalows overlook private pools and secluded yards. In addition to the spacious rooms, the resort offers a spa, a restaurant, multiple pools and wellness activities, such as morning yoga and personal training sessions. Guests have plenty of praise for this boutique resort: They say that the grounds are beautiful, and the cuisine served at the SO•PA restaurant is delectable. However, several recent travelers complained of poor service from the staff. 

Kathy Condon is a seasoned travel writer based in Palm Springs. The information below is from her on-site tour of this property. 

Fun facts and finds from our hotel tour:

  • Designed by William F. Cody in the early 1950s, L'Horizon was originally built for Jack Wrather (producer of "The Lone Ranger" and "Lassie") and his wife. It had 20 guest houses to house their Hollywood guests, such as Marilyn Monroe and Betty Grable.
  • Along with Hollywood stars, L'Horizon has hosted Presidents Ronald Reagan and Richard Nixon.
  • There are two very different atmospheres at this resort: One area has the old Hollywood feel, while the recently added bungalows are more contemporary, with quality craftsmanship and a flair for simplicity.
  • Hotel Class 4.0
  • Critic Rating GOOD

Tripadvisor Traveler Rating

U.S. News analyzed more than 35,000 hotels to find the best in the USA, Europe, Canada, Mexico, Bermuda and the Caribbean, based on reputation among travel experts, guest reviews and hotel class ratings.

  • # 4 in Best Palm Springs Hotels
  • # 4 in Best Palm Springs Resorts
  • # 131 in Best California Hotels
  • # 50 in Best California Resorts
  • # 778 in Best USA Hotels
  • # 267 in Best USA Resorts

Similar Hotels Nearby

The Colony Palms Hotel and Bungalows

The Colony Palms Hotel and Bungalows

Renaissance Palm Springs Hotel

Renaissance Palm Springs Hotel

Triada Palm Springs, Autograph Collection

Triada Palm Springs, Autograph Collection

Critic Reviews

Other Awards

  • Condé Nast Readers' Choice List 2023

Condé Nast Traveler

Everything you'd expect from a quintessential Palm Springs hotel is here: the desert, the mountains, mid-century architecture, a killer pool, and Hollywood history. The vibe is elegant yet unassuming.

Guest Reviews

A hotel's guest rating is calculated using data provided under license by Tripadvisor. A total of 396 have reviewed the L'Horizon Resort & Spa , giving it a rating of 4.5 , on a scale of 1-5.

Tripadvisor Travel Rating: 

Guest Rooms

  • In-room safes
  • Free Wi-Fi in room
  • Nest thermostats

Standard room size :  290 square feet

  • Premium channels
  • Workspace/desk
  • Bathrobes/slippers
  • Shower/tub combo
  • Separate shower
  • Separate tub
  • Wireless internet
  • Free internet
  • Fee for internet usage
  • Guest rooms with patios and balconies
  • Adjoining rooms available

Location & Parking

  • Located 3 miles southwest of Palm Springs International Airport
  • 24-hour valet parking ($35)
  • 24-hour self-parking (free)
  • Airport shuttle
  • Car service

Within walking distance of :

  • Restaurants
  • Movie theater
  • Train station
  • Subway/metro stop
  • Grocery store
  • Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner
  • Room service available

Number of restaurants :  1

Cuisine Types :  American

  • Fine dining
  • Casual dining
  • Quick service cafe/coffee shop/marketplace
  • Room service
  • 24-hour room service
  • free breakfast
  • Pool bungalows available
  • Wading pool
  • Family pool
  • Infinity pool
  • Whirlpool/hot tub
  • Adults-only pool
  • Lifeguard on duty
  • Poolside service
  • Deck chairs or cabanas
  • Outdoor relaxation area

Services offered :

  • Body Treatments (i.e. scrubs, wraps)
  • Salon services
  • Outdoor treatment area
  • Classes must be booked through the concierge 48 hours in advance
  • Weight equipment
  • Cardio equipment
  • Free fitness classes
  • Premium fitness classes (with fee)
  • Dogs must be kept on a leash when outside of guest rooms
  • Pets allowed (with fee)
  • Dog walking
  • Pet-sitting

Maximum wedding guest capacity :  100

  • Hotel hosts weddings
  • Outdoor space for weddings
  • Wedding planners available

Editor’s note: Hotel information is updated periodically. If this is your property and you notice any inaccuracies, please let us know . If you are interested in obtaining a badge to display on your website or in other media, please contact us .

If you make a purchase from our site, we may earn a commission. This does not affect the quality or independence of our editorial content.

Kimpton Rowan Palm Springs Hotel

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Kimpton Rowan Palm Springs

Our Hotel in Downtown Palm Springs Beckons

A soulful palm springs hotel.

An ethereal desert beauty permeates every experience at Kimpton Rowan Palm Springs Hotel, where urban enchantments meet epic scenery. The 153 soothing, spacious guestrooms and suites offer a restorative retreat after heart-thumping adventures on rugged trails (or playing on one of our six pickleball courts ) to the lively nightlife scenes of downtown Palm Springs . At the rooftop pool and bar , pair brilliant sunsets with masterful cocktails. Dine at one of our two chef-driven restaurants featuring seasonal, shareable small plates made from fresh, local ingredients. From vista points like our refreshing rooftop deck or the two-story cinematic window in the lobby, the views are stunning and unsurpassed. Embrace

"#5 Hotel in Southern California"

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Palm Springs Meeting + Wedding Venue

At Rowan Palm Springs Hotel, we transform ordinary gatherings into extraordinary experiences. With Kimpton, meetings are more than just agendas, events turn into unforgettable moments, and weddings are the perfect blend of romance and flair. Let's create something spectacular together!

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From Our Blog

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Pickleball player Irina Tereschenko

Rowan Courts

Introducing the latest adventure at our desert sanctuary: six sprawling pickleball courts right next to the hotel, available exclusively for our guests' enjoyment. Rowan Courts, Kimpton Rowan Hotel’s pickleball paradise in Palm Springs, debuts this spring. It’s your turn to serve.

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Palm Springs: Where to Hike, Drink, Eat, and Stay

By Natalie B. Compton

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Palm Springs is changing. You can see it all from 4 Saints , the new (and highest) rooftop bar and restaurant in town. Under the soft glow of the rattan light fixtures, guests in the busy dining room dig into wild boar and sip craft cocktails. Sitting 7 floors up, 4 Saints gives you a 270-degree view of its surroundings, like the San Jacintos mountains flanking the Sonoran Desert city. “The setting is beautiful, like living in a movie set. I love the sunrise and sunset shadows that get cast across the mountains,” says 4 Saints executive chef Stephen Wambach. “While the city has always had an allure to it from entertainers and Hollywood elite, I think it is now appealing to a broader audience.”

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As the city comes up, one thing has remained constant: Palm Springs is pleasant as all hell during the winter. When the rest of the country is smothered in snow, it’s hardly sweater weather out in the Southern California desert. Naturally Palm Springs gets a lot of traffic during the spring and festival seasons, but you’d be remiss to sleep on Palm Springs in the winter. The Coachella crowds and scorching temperatures are distant memories; the city is cool and peaceful. We asked Michael Beckman—who opened one of Palm Springs’ best restaurants, Workshop Kitchen + Bar in 2011, and also owns Truss & Twine a few blocks down from 4 Saints—to take us through a perfect winter weekend.

Pack your athleisure ; winter in Palm Springs is all about the outdoor activities. There are some 54 miles of hiking trails to get at when you’re not lounging by the pool. “My wife and I are both super outdoorsy. We love to hike and there are a gazillion of really beautiful hikes to do out here from super challenging to day hikes,” Beckman says. Beginner hikers should head for Indian Canyons (and bring plenty of water and sunscreen). “It’s super accessible, it’s not too strenuous, and it’s really, really beautiful,” Beckman says. A tougher option is to skip the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway and trek to Southern California’s second highest point on foot.

There’s plenty of surrounding natural splendor to explore outside of town, too “Go to the high desert. Yucca valley, Joshua Tree, Pioneertown. It’s another planet up there,” Beckman says. “The Salton Sea is between forty five minutes and an hour away.” And the high desert happens to be home to a hidden music gem: “You have to go see Pappy & Harriets . Even if you’re only in town for three nights. It’s only a half an hour drive from here,” Beckman says of the long-running venue and restaurant/bar in Pioneertown. “It was kind of a dangerous place for a long time. The current owners took it over and started to bring in really serious music talent. When Paul McCartney was out here for Desert Trip he shot up there and played Pappy’s on a totally impromptu whim. Slash comes out here and jams.” Go for the shows and stay for the BBQ situation: “They’ve got a big barbecue pit in the back where they crank out ribs and pork chops and burgers,” Beckman says. “They do a good tri-tip chili, some guacamole, beers on draught, a deep whiskey selection.”

On your first night in town, go see what Beckman is up to at his next-door neighbor hotspots. At Truss & Twine, start with a drink and a snack inspired by the desert, like the goat cheese with bougainvillea dust, Temecula valley honeycomb, and cactus confit. Move on to dinner at Workshop, where you’ll find sleek James Beard Award-winning design and more locally-driven dishes.

This image may contain Glass Drink Alcohol Beverage Food and Wine

Beckman only has one pick for diners looking for a taste of old school Palm Springs. “No question: Le Vallauris . It’s the same old school French crew, they’ve been there 30 or 40 years,” he says. “They planted these trees in the courtyard and they’ve matured to create this canopy. That’s one thing that makes it iconic for me, it’s a beautiful outdoor space that they condition really well to keep it warm even in cooler months. Really old school classic French cuisine, like 1970s style French. We did my mom’s 60th birthday there. It’s a special occasion place. We still get a kiss from the maître d' when we come in.”

At some point you’ll want some brunch—and when you do, you’ll want to go to the LA-cool epicenter of the city’s rebirth. “For brunch, I’m loving the Ace . They’ve been through several different eras of people behind the food and beverage. They’re really on point since they hired the guys behind Taco María," Beckman says. “It’s a really fun menu now. [Carlos Delgado] does a burger that’s fashioned a little bit after a Double Double: It uses a Spanish cheese, idiazabal, and the two thin patties are probably Wagyu. It’s got this bacon marmalade or something crazy like that, and it’s killer.”

“We typically tell people who like specialty cocktails there’s Bootlegger on the north end of town. And there’s Seymour’s , where you can count on a good, balanced cocktail. Each have their own unique atmosphere,” Beckman says. “Seymour’s is inside Mr. Lyons. It’s not like New York-speakeasy , but you can be in their bar still and not know about it. You have to know to go through a certain drape.” Bootlegger is a must for tiki freaks, as the space is built on hallowed ground. Once upon a time the father of the tiki movement, Don the Beachcomber, had a place at the same address.

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Then there’s Melvyn's . “Melvyn’s would be the spot if you want to go out and take it a level above a bar. Go to Melvyn’s to watch 70-year-olds hit on each other over Rusty Nails and giant martinis. Then you’ve got millennials coming in dancing, tipping the piano player,” Beckman says. “It’s just got so much history to it, from Brooklyn Dodger’s paraphernalia to all the old Rat Pack stuff. That was the place back in those days.”

For date night, Beckman heads to the Parker Palm Springs hotel bar. “I love the ambiance inside Mr. Parker’s,” he says. “It’s Jonathan Adler-designed, super low ceiling, tons of beautiful contemporary expensive art on the wall, grand piano, lots of black leather, dim lighting, gold accents. It’s a really swanky place. It looks like somewhere Austin Powers would eat.”

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If you’re not into the scene at the Ace, the Colony Palms Hotel is an elegant oasis in Downtown Palm Springs. Back when the Spanish colonial style property was built in the 30s it served as a meeting place for mobsters, and later as a hideaway for Frank Sinatra. Since then, it’s undergone a $2-million facelift under the direction of designer Martyn Lawrence-Bullard. With a backdrop of purple mountains majesty and palm trees, the picturesque pool is one of the best fixtures of the resort (and one of the best places to take in Palm Springs’ epic pastel pink sunsets). It’s comfortably heated in the winter (and cooled in the summer, btw) for when you want to take a break from the 80-something degree afternoon sun. Around the corner from the pool is the Colony Palms spa where you’ll want to book the Desert Rain Moisture treatment to replenish your skin from the desert’s drying climate. Pro tip: Book a stay at Colony Palms directly and get 15% off the going rate.

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Where to Eat, Stay, and Play in Cannes

By Caitlin Gunther

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All products featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Well before Cannes became synonymous with red carpets, the Côte d'Azur city was a destination for refuge and recovery. The buzz began in the early 19th century. Legend has it that a British lord en route to Italy with his ailing daughter was derailed by a pandemic and stopped off in a sleepy fishing village. Captivated by the light and the landscape dotted with olive, orange, and fig trees, he decided to build a villa in the hills of Cannes and a wave of aristocrats followed suit.

Then, in the 1920s, an American literary celebrity decamped to the French Riviera to soak in the sunshine and finish penning The Great Gatsby : F. Scott Fitzgerald’s sejour in the “the hot sweet South'' (his words) would provide a backdrop for his later work, “Tender Is the Night.” From a vantage point of nearby Antibes, Fitzgerald wrote, “In the early morning the distant image of Cannes, the pink and cream of old fortifications, the purple Alp that bounded Italy, were cast across the water and lay quavering in the ripples and rings sent up by sea-plants through the clear shallows.” Today, sherbet-hued structures still shimmer on the sea. The sun shines bright as ever 300 days annually.

While the city is best known for its star-studded film Festival de Cannes and palatial hotels, like the art deco Martinez and the belle époque Intercontinental Carlton , newer arrivals are infusing the scene with fresh energy—like the revitalized 17th-century Château de Théoule and the California-cool Maison Carla Rosa , as well as revamped iconic landmarks like Palm Beach , a Jazz Age members’ club once frequented by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. It’s the new golden age of Cannes, and the options for staying and playing are better than ever.

Whether you’re after a restorative retreat, a raucous Riviera-style party, or a sun-soaked destination to compose the next great American novel, there are so many reasons to visit. Here are the best things to do in Cannes.

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Speed boats and yachts dock alongside Ile Sainte-Marguerite for La Guérite Cannes.

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The seaside restaurant has been an institution since 1902.

Where to eat

A rule of thumb when traveling: food markets tend to be flanked by simple, straightforward spots frequented by locals. In the heart of Cannes, just off the Marché Forville, you’ll find Poissonnerie Forville, where the Cannois crowd sips crisp whites or Provençal rosés and grazes on briny oysters and platters of fruits de mer . At nearby Da Laura , an Italian trattoria, the decor is eclectic (flamingo pink walls, verdant plant ceiling, mismatched chairs) and the housemade pasta is perfectly al dente. Swing by Il Labo next door to pick up a bag of dry pasta and recreate their trofie with pesto or spicy penne arrabbiata at home. For a simple, sublime Italian dessert, Niva gelateria is a five-minute stroll away. There, the expert gelato makers use milk sourced from Italian Alps pastures, enriched with artisanal ingredients like Piedmontese hazelnut or hand-crushed dark chocolate.

On the rooftop of Hotel Belle Plage, Bella serves Mediterranean dishes that vary with the season and the chef’s daily market finds. Plates like whole sea bream with roasted tomatoes and lemons, and beef carpaccio with pine nuts and crushed pepper are meant to be shared. France may not be known for brunch, but Bella makes a case for it—late Sunday morning, the rooftop restaurant becomes a hotspot. Diners come for the crepe station and the homemade pastries and linger for the stunning sea views.

At Fred l’Écailler , a seaside restaurant in the quieter Pointe Croisette neighborhood, owner Fred Garbellini (ever sporting his signature red beanie) is onsite to scale (or écailler , in French) and serve the daily catches, plus shellfish, oysters, crustaceans, scallops, langoustines, and more. The sun-splashed terrace is prime real estate for polishing off a plate of crispy calamari or buttery ray with fatted capers.

Just off the Croisette Beach, Le Fouquet’s , from Michelin-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire, serves reimagined brasserie classics like “terre et mer” (essentially, surf and turf) tartare—an umami-rich marriage of finely chopped raw steak, smoked herring, red tuna, and Beaufort cheese. It would be a sin to skip the profiteroles, the molten chocolate poured tableside, as it should be.

From April to October, speed boats and yachts dock alongside Ile Sainte-Marguerite for La Guerite , an institution since 1902. Surrounded by Aleppo pine and eucalyptus trees, with jasmine-line paths and blond wooden tables and coco net shades, you might think you’ve arrived at a sleepy, rustic restaurant—a bait-and-switch for the party that awaits. On Athens-born Chef Yiannis Kioroglou’s menu, carefully selected products shine, with starters like seared octopus topped with flaky salt from Camargue and Greek salad with hunks of spiced feta, and mains like spiny lobster dusted with chopped chives. The DJ spins dance tracks, from La Bamba to Like a Prayer, to accompany the family style feasts. By the end of a meal, you might find yourself dancing on banquettes and raising Ouzo shots with a neighboring table of Los Angelinos, while an excited 30-something whispers his plan to propose to the girl next to him. The vibe is decidedly celebratory.

Opening in May 2024, just in time for the film festival, Palm Beach is setting out to transform Cannes into a culinary destination. The sprawling 23,000 square meter members club underwent a four-year renovation helmed by French Riviera architect, Caprini Pellerin, who restored the property’s Côte d'Azur glamor and revived its Hispano-Mauresque origins, with sand-tinted facades, French Comblanchien stone, bronze-coated finishes, and plenty of marble. In addition to La Petite Maison Cannes , where Chef Kioroglou’s menu features bright Riviera specialties like grilled eggplants with pistou and roasted baby chicken with lemon confit, the roster will include France’s first Nammos Beach Club , a Mykonos-born restaurant group known for its exquisite seafood and delicious parties, and Zuma , a contemporary take on Japanese Izakaya style dining.

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Spa Villa Belle Plage was designed by Paris-based, Jerusalem-born Raphael Navot

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The sleek sauna at the spa, which offers everything from facials to Watsu water massages

The best things to do in Cannes

Hit the Forville Market, a bustling marché with local specialties like black olive tapenade and still-warm socca, the Niçoise crispy chickpea flatbread, and a technicolor flower market, open daily before 1pm. Then, get lost in the hilly, cobblestone streets of La Suquet, Cannes’ millennium-old old town, where you’ll find pocket-sized bars, boutiques, and family-owned restaurants serving typical Provençal dishes like foie gras maison and grilled lamb with thyme.

The Lerins Islands, named after the eponymous monks who took control of Cannes in the 4th century AD, are just a 15-minute boat ride from Cannes’ center. Visitors can explore the monastery on Saint-Honorat Island, where monks still live (and produce a Chartreuse-like liqueur called Lerina), or hike around the forest of eucalyptus and Aleppo pine trees on neighboring Sainte-Marguerite Island. Several companies provide transportation to the islands and boats depart in both directions regularly.

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For hitting reset, Cannes has several spas to choose from. Opened in October of 2022, Spa Villa Belle Plage takes a holistic approach to wellness, offering tailored programs to deliver benefits that linger well beyond your visit. Designed by Paris-based, Jerusalem-born Raphael Navot (the eye behind Hôtel National des Arts et Métiers, Le 39V, and Silencio), the space feels serene and organic, with mineral materials inspired by natural caves. Spa experts offer everything from HydraFacials© to Watsu water massages to sports concierge services. “We take care of everything—energy, muscles, and mind,” Hôtel Belle Plage director Jad Aboukhater told CNT. Be sure to book a sweat session in the sauna, outfitted with a pink Himalayan salt wall to help purge the body’s toxins while restoring its naturally occurring minerals.

At the Spa Diane Barrière , guests have a lengthy menu of signature treatments from Paris-based brands Codage (like a gentle peeling treatment and a radiance boost facial) and THÉMAÉ (including an anti-age lift treatment, a purity and radiance facial). The spa also offers traditional body massages, gommages (scrubs), hydro-massage jacuzzi treatments, and more. In the same space you’ll also find a full fitness studio with personal training available by appointment.

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The 45-room Hôtel Belle Plage opened June 2022 on the gentle slopes of the historic Suquet district

Designer Raphael Navots interiors feature terrazzo surfaces and pastel accents

Designer Raphael Navot’s interiors feature terrazzo surfaces and pastel accents

Where to stay

In a city where grand hotels loom large in the visual landscape, smaller, independent properties are a welcome and much-needed addition, offering discerning travelers a stylish alternative. Opened in April of 2023, Maison Carla Rosa is a powder pink boutique hotel with a California-meets-Côte d’Azur aesthetic, set in the sleepier Californie neighborhood that was once home to Picasso. According to the owners, the warm color palette adheres to local building codes while capturing the breezy, west coast vibe they were after. The property features 12 one or two-bedroom apartments, each outfitted with a terrace and all but two with full kitchens. The owners chose artisans from around the world to handcraft the furniture and decor items, from the sleek rattan chairs to reclaimed wood side tables. Lined with tall cacti and shady palm trees and white midcentury loungers, the kidney shaped pool feels straight out of Palm Springs—ideal for escaping the heat and the high-season crowds on le plage.

A former 17th-century soap factory is home to one of 2024’s most anticipated openings on the French Riviera, Château de Théoule . Opened in March, the hotel features 34 rooms and 10 suites spread across a turreted castle, a modern Art Deco villa, and a charming fisherman’s villa. Just 20 minutes from Cannes by car or boat, guests will appreciate the chateau’s relatively remote location (a definite selling point when tourism swells in the warmer months), the private La Plage Blanche beach, and the boho-chic seaside spa with products from MyBlend by Clarins and KOS Paris. Rooms are decorated with a delicate touch, with velvet seating and custom linen curtains from Maison de Vacances, as well as unique antique furniture finds. At the hotel restaurant Mareluna, guests can dine en terrace overlooking the Bay of Cannes on dishes like wild turbot with palourde clams or Provençal escargot with fresh saltwort.

Hôtel Belle Plage has been drawing travelers to the gentle slopes of the historic Suquet district since its opening in June 2022. With sweeping views of the sea and the Esterel mountains, the cream-colored undulating building feels like a Greek island hideaway. The hotel has 45 rooms as well as eight apartments imagined as longer-term pied-à-terres (including a nearly 1200-square-foot penthouse) outfitted with fully equipped kitchens, coffee machines, and baby equipment (cots, highchairs, etc.) on request. Designer Raphael Navot’s interiors feature cool stone floors, terrazzo surfaces, smooth Scandinavian furniture, and pastel accents, like light matcha sofas and pale peach ottomans.

When it opened in 1913, the Carlton helped usher in the era of lux tourism for the little city on the Riviera. In 2023, the famed hotel reopened its rosy-marble-column-framed doors after extensive renovations led by Cannes-born interior designer Tristan Auer, known for his restoration of the Hotel de Crillon in Paris . Auer maintained the property’s Belle Epoque soul and paid homage to its history, while enhancing the modern amenities. The fitness center even has a full-size boxing ring where a champion pugilist offers private lessons. Rooms and suites are cast in bright- and off-white, refracting the luminosity that pours through the tall French windows. All told, the Carlton is one of the chicest addresses along La Croisette beach, not to mention, a celebrity favorite during the annual film festival.

Opened in 1926, the Hotel Barrière Le Majestic Cannes is perched between the Croisette Beach and the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès. The lobby hints at the property’s history, with soaring ceilings and gilded sculptures and cascading art deco light fixtures. Rooms feel more modern, outfitted in shades of cream and taupe, with sweeping bay views. Le Majestic re-opened 60 of its rooms in early 2024 after total renovations. The hotel also offers ultra-luxe suites, each with a distinct design theme (like Riviera and Christian Dior), and a penthouse suite with a heated rooftop pool and 360-degree views of Cannes, from the hills to the sea stretching across the horizon. The bar at Fouquet’s is buzzy year-round, with a thoughtful drink menu from veteran mixologist Emanuele Balestra. Onsite restaurants include Fouquet’s and Paradiso, a Mediterranean brasserie that opens during the warmer seasons.

The inspiration for Gausse’s Hôtel des Étrangers in Fitzgerald’s “Tender Is the Night,” Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc has welcomed cultural and literary elite—and the fashionable set more generally—since 1870. Picasso, Chagall, Elizabeth Taylor, the Kennedys—they’ve all called this secluded retreat their temporary abode. For today’s traveler, hotel highlights include restaurants led by Executive Chef Sébastien Broda, the Dior Spa Eden Roc, and private villa rentals. Understandably, it remains a celebrity favorite when the droves descend on Cannes each May for the film festival. Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc holds a certain allure, hearkening back to another golden age of Cannes while staying relevant and ever-chic for its future.

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The Carlton Cannes, a Regent Hotel

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