monte testaccio tour

Monte Testaccio — Imperial Rome’s Broken Pottery Mountain

Ok, you are not going to build a mountain out of one oily amphora.  Yet thanks to circa 300,000 amphora imported yearly, Imperial Rome built a sizable hill of a broken pottery in its backyard over the course of two hundred years!  (The hill is the green pimple at the bottom center of the recreation.)  So, to better understand Imperial Rome, tour Monte Testaccio!

We could argue that Romans were master urban planners and rightly created this garbage heap of broken amphora next to Rome’s riverside port/industrial zone.  You can see the Tiber River, the bustling harbor, and wall-to-wall warehouses in the recreation mentioned above.  On a daily basis, dockworkers unloaded amphora by the thousands.  Some amphora contained liquids, such as olive oil, linseed oil, wine, and soy-sauce-like garum .  Others contained peach preserves, dried beans, and wheat from Egypt, Sicily, and Sardinia.  As the oil amphorae from Spain and North Africa stacked up, someone was in charge of removing them, breaking them into pieces, stacking them in an orderly fashion, and covering them with lime (to neutralize the stench).  During your tour of Monte Testaccio, the labor intensive stacking of the shards will stun you.  For a preview, watch this video that describes the hill’s history.

A New Perspective on Imperial Roman Garbage

We could argue that Imperial Romans were slightly out of their mind for stacking oily amphora fragments in their backyard.  After all, by circa 250 A.D., the mountain may have been around 50 meters (i.e. 150 feet) tall!  (It is now about 36 meters tall — circa 108 feet, having been partially buried by the rising ground level and slowly leveled over the course of time.)  150 feet of broken pottery must have been an ugly blight on the city’s horizon!  Or was it?  As we tour Monte Testaccio, we will discuss the garbage heap’s history as well as surprising attitudes toward trash in Imperial Rome.

More Information About Monte Testaccio and Other Attractions in the Area

Visiting the site requires a special permission and a timed (private) entrance.  Visits are limited to an hour.  Besides a 4 euro / per person ticket, there is a one-time euro 35 reservation surcharge. For more information, please see “the costs” section of this  webpage.

Monte Testaccio is in the heart of the modern neighborhood Testaccio, Rome. You can tour it combining it with different sites in the immediate vicinity, like the Mithraeum near the Circus Maximus (another special entrance area) or the Baths of Caracalla. 

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Monte Testaccio Tour: the ceramic vases' dump in Imperiale Rome

Tour of Mount Testaccio: the massive trade of Imperial Rome and the stacked oil jars forming a hill.

• SPECIAL OPENING

Explore, on our tour, Monte Testaccio, the artificial hill over 50 meters high and with a diameter of 1 kilometer, created in Imperial Rome through the systematic accumulation of non-reusable terracotta vessels for transporting oil, thus reduced to fragments and properly stacked.

Where did so many terracotta jars come from, and why were they systematically disposed of in the largest landfill of ancient Rome?

Our knowledgeable and communicative guide will address this and other topics of great interest, such as widespread goods and the global economy in Imperial Rome, during your guided tour uncovering the details - the shapes and inscriptions - impressed on the jars and their ability to transport us to the time when those terracotta containers were transported, registered, archived, and disposed of.

On these traces of life, we will lead you into Imperial Rome, through the social and economic dynamics of the greatest metropolis of antiquity.

TOUR INCLUDES

Wonders discovered.

Did Imperial Rome truly develop the first global economy of antiquity?

Monte Testaccio is a remarkable archaeological evidence of the widespread commerce and decentralized agricultural production policies implemented in the Roman Empire, as well as the efficiency with which the Romans organized the influx and storage of these goods in Rome. This was done in the large imperial warehouses, located not far from the docking of ships near the Tiber Island.

In our Monte Testaccio tour, you will discover how goods from diverse provinces of the empire arrived at the port town of Ostia. Goods from the various provinces of the empire arrived at the port town of Ostia - today, it's possible to visit its streets, taverns, public and private buildings in the archaeological site of Ostia Antica - and were then transported up the Tiber River until reaching the port of Rome. There, they were registered and deposited in the large warehouses located in the area of present-day Testaccio.

Thanks to the engaging narration of our licensed guide, you will explore Monte Testaccio, or the hill of potsherds, as the Romans call it: an artificial hill that formed over the course of nearly three centuries (from the end of the 1st century BC to the middle of the 3rd century AD) from the systematic accumulation, in this designated dumping area, of emptied and shattered vases (as they were not reusable) and properly piled up here.

The amphorae, not surprisingly, were those used for transporting olive oil to Rome, mainly coming from the area of present-day Andalusia in southern Spain, where vast hills were cultivated with olive trees for olive oil production. Anyone who has had the opportunity to use oil containers to transfer traditionally produced olive oil from certain regions of Italy into the cities - such as, in the case of the writer, from the olive mills of Sicily to Rome - knows that removing oil leftovers is not easy, and cleaning would have been even more challenging for pottery containers, which are porous and easily soaked with the viscosity of oil. This is why the Romans chose to discard them; the cost and effort of cleaning the amphorae were evidently too high, and it made more sense to use new ones.

But what were the key factors behind the economic power of the Roman Empire? Let's examine three decisive ones.

The extent of Imperial Rome was immense and never reached before by other empires. During its peak, from the 1st to the 3rd century AD, the Roman Empire, thanks also to a certain political stability, dominated a vast territories of three continents: Europe, Africa, and Asia. Morever all the regions surrounding the Mediterranean were under the dominion of Rome, so much so that the Romans - not without propagandistic intentions - called the Mediterranean "Mare Nostrum" (Our Sea). From Spain to Egypt, from North Africa to present-day France (the Roman Gaul), from Syria to Romania, the official language was Latin, the laws were those of Rome, the power was in the hands of Rome, the eternal city, a myth, and a certainty.

Such a domain facilitated extensive trade networks and economic interactions, making it a global economic powerhouse of its time.

The Romans are famous for their remarkable engineering skills and related infrastructure development. In fact, they conveniently linked the various regions of the empire, not only for military, land control and border defence purposes, developing a series of roads, including the famous "Roman roads" still existing, which greatly facilitated trade and transportation of local goods even between distant provinces far from each other. But this primarily happened through migrations of peoples, an exchange of cultures among men and women with diverse customs, enticed or conquered by Roman culture, whose immense spread is still evidenced today by archaeological findings existing from Morocco to Turkey, from France to Egypt.

The third relevant factor was the adoption of a unified currency system: the Romans indeed adopted their currency - the sestertius - as the sole currency throughout the empire, thereby generating strong economic stability. Roman coins, accepted in the most diverse regions of the empire - as confirmed by numerous archaeological findings scattered all over - fostered a solid economic integration.

Nonetheless, the Roman economy remained fundamentally agrarian, but the Romans initiated policies to optimize agricultural cultivation, which inevitable led, for example, to a predominant production of wheat in Egypt, oil from Spain, and wine from Gaul.

But Italy and above alla Rome, the metropolis with over a million inhabitants in the 1st century AD, remained the main reference market where goods produced in various regions of the empire, and even beyond, flowed and found wealthy buyers for both common and exotic delights.

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Reviews [5.0]

We greatly enjoyed our tour with Yevgen to Mount Testaccio. He was very competent, charming and we had a very good time! Tour date: 6 February 2024

Robert S. USA

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Tour of Monte Testaccio and Tickets

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Monte testaccio tours, rome | official guided private tours of monte testaccio for small or large groups, tickets, reservations to visit the archaeological site in rome ..

TOUR SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN Tour of Monte Testaccio begins in Monte Testaccio, which is an artificial hill created between II° BC and III° AD entirely by the fragments (in Latin “testae” hence the name of Testaccio) of amphorae used to transport olives, oil, or wine that were unloaded from the ships in the nearby river port of Rome. The hill has a perimeter of about 3,330 feet and is 150 feet high. It constitutes an important source of historical documentation about the economic development of the Roman Empire, the commercial relations, and the food habits of the Romans. 

Many amphorae from Spain and North Africa have marks on their handles. Others are painted or with notes written indicating the exporter’s name, the contents, and other important information. Calculating the number of amphorae accumulated allowed us to know the amount of oil that reached Rome in this period. Our tour guides are professional licensed guides possessing solid historical, archaeological, and artistic backgrounds.

• Your hotel in Rome and Tel Number
• Your credit card information (nothing will be charged, it is only to guarantee your reservation)

You can send your credit card details in two different emails, not American Express. The total payment in cash will be made at your meeting with our Tour guide. The entrance fees are not included.

• citizens of the European Union between 6 and 25 years of age and over 65 years, and to residents in the city of Rome between 18 and 25 years of age;
• teachers with permanent contracts in state and municipal schools;
• members of the Municipal Library Association of Rome, in possession of the Bibliocard (library card);
• holders of the “C.T.S.” card, the Italian Youth Card Association, the International Student Card, and the members of F.A.I.;
• promotional initiatives aimed at tourist, cultural, and sports promotion;
• holders of the annual ATAC and Metrobus annual Cards;
• Roma Pass holders, from the third entrance onwards to the visited museums and/or archaeological sites.
• citizens enrolled at the People’s University of Rome (UPTER);
• Italian Police Personnel, under presentation of a personal badge.

Rates per person vary according to the number of participants in the guided tour and Include:

• Reservation Fees, tickets, Tour guide, Headsets, VAT, and Tax
• Guided Tour | Our tour guides are professional licensed guides possessing solid historical, archaeological, and artistic backgrounds

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Exploring Monte Testaccio

Explore Monte Testaccio, an ancient Roman artificial mound, now a historical landmark in the Testaccio district.

Introduction

Monte Testaccio is a man-made hill in Rome, composed of millions of broken amphorae, or clay jars, that were used to store and transport olive oil in ancient times. It is a unique testimony of the economic and social life of the Roman Empire, as well as a fascinating archaeological site. In this article, you will learn about the history and significance of Monte Testaccio, how to visit it, and what to expect from this unusual attraction.

Setting Expectations: Downsides and Time Considerations

Monte Testaccio is not a typical tourist destination, and it may not appeal to everyone. It is located in a rather industrial area, far from the city center, and it is not easily accessible by public transportation. The hill itself is not very scenic, and it can be dusty and hot in summer. Moreover, Monte Testaccio is not open to the public on a regular basis, and it can only be visited by booking a guided tour in advance. The tours are usually conducted in Italian, and they last about two hours. If you are interested in ancient history and archaeology, however, Monte Testaccio can be a rewarding and memorable experience.

Tips for your visit of Monte Testaccio

• Book your tour online. You can reserve your spot on the official website of the Soprintendenza Speciale Archeologia Belle Arti e Paesaggio di Roma, which organizes the tours of Monte Testaccio. The tours are available on Saturdays and Sundays, at 10:00 am and 12:00 pm. The price is 10 euros per person, and you need to show your ID at the entrance.
• Wear comfortable shoes and clothes. Monte Testaccio is a steep and uneven terrain, so you will need to wear sturdy shoes and clothes that can get dirty. You will also need to bring a hat, sunscreen, and water, especially in summer. The tour involves climbing up and down the hill, as well as entering some underground chambers, so be prepared for some physical activity.

After your tour, you can explore the surrounding area of Testaccio, which is one of the most authentic and lively neighborhoods in Rome. You can enjoy some delicious Roman cuisine at one of the many restaurants and trattorias, or visit the nearby attractions such as the Protestant Cemetery, the Pyramid of Cestius, and the MACRO Museum of Contemporary Art.

Practical Information

Opening Hours: Monte Testaccio is open on Saturdays and Sundays, at 10:00 am and 12:00 pm. The tours last about two hours.

How to Get There: Monte Testaccio is located in Via Zabaglia 24, in the Testaccio district of Rome. The nearest metro station is Piramide (line B), which is about 15 minutes walk from the hill. You can also take bus 83 or 280 from Piazza Venezia or bus 170 from Termini station.

Price: The admission fee for Monte Testaccio is 10 euros per person. You need to book your tour online on the official website of the Soprintendenza Speciale Archeologia Belle Arti e Paesaggio di Roma.

Crowds: Monte Testaccio is not very crowded, as it can only accommodate a limited number of visitors per tour. However, you may encounter some queues at the entrance or at the security check.

Weather Considerations: Monte Testaccio is an outdoor attraction, so it may be affected by weather conditions. It can be very hot and sunny in summer, so make sure to bring enough water and protection. It can also be closed in case of rain or strong winds.

Photography: You are allowed to take photos and videos at Monte Testaccio, but you need to respect the archaeological site and the other visitors. You are not allowed to use flash, tripod, or selfie stick.

Accessibility: Monte Testaccio is not accessible for people with mobility impairments, as it involves climbing up and down the hill and entering some narrow passages. There are no elevators or ramps available.

Facilities: Monte Testaccio does not have any facilities such as toilets, lockers, or cafés. You will need to use the ones in the nearby area of Testaccio.

Tours: Monte Testaccio can only be visited by booking a guided tour in advance. The tours are conducted by qualified archaeologists and historians, who will explain the history and significance of the site. The tours are usually in Italian, but you can request an English-speaking guide if available.

Bringing Children: Monte Testaccio can be an interesting and educational attraction for children, as they can learn about the ancient Roman culture and see the remains of the amphorae. However, you need to supervise them at all times, as the site can be dangerous and slippery. The tour may also be too long or difficult for some children.

Bringing Pets: You are not allowed to bring pets to Monte Testaccio, as they may damage the archaeological site or disturb the other visitors.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is monte testaccio.

Monte Testaccio is an artificial hill in Rome, made of broken pottery shards dating from the first century BC to the third century AD. It is estimated that the hill contains the remains of about 53 million amphorae, which were used to transport olive oil from Spain to Rome.

Why is Monte Testaccio important?

Monte Testaccio is important for several reasons. First, it is a unique example of ancient waste management and recycling, as the Romans carefully arranged the pottery shards in layers and used lime to prevent odors and pests. Second, it is a valuable source of information about the Roman economy, trade, and consumption patterns, as the amphorae bear stamps and inscriptions that indicate their origin, date, and content. Third, it is a cultural and historical attraction that offers a glimpse into the daily life of ancient Rome.

How can I visit Monte Testaccio?

Monte Testaccio is located in the Testaccio district of Rome, near the Tiber river. It is not open to the public, but you can book a guided tour with a local association or a private company that will take you to the top of the hill and inside the caves that were dug into it over the centuries. You can also admire the hill from the outside, as it is surrounded by a park and a fence.

The amphorae wall

The amphorae wall is a section of the hill that was exposed in the 19th century, revealing the inner structure of Monte Testaccio. You can see how the pottery shards were stacked in regular patterns, creating a compact and stable mass. The wall also shows the different types and sizes of amphorae that were used over time.

The caves are artificial tunnels that were carved into Monte Testaccio for various purposes. Some were used as storage rooms, workshops, or wine cellars, while others were converted into chapels, shrines, or catacombs. The caves are decorated with frescoes, graffiti, and relics that reflect the history and culture of the people who inhabited them.

The view from the top of Monte Testaccio is stunning, as you can see the whole city of Rome and its landmarks, such as the Colosseum, the Vatican, and the Aventine Hill. You can also enjoy the sunset over the Tiber river and the skyline of modern Rome.

The neighborhood

The neighborhood around Monte Testaccio is one of the most authentic and lively areas of Rome, where you can experience the local cuisine, nightlife, and street art. You can find many restaurants, bars, clubs, and markets that offer delicious food and drinks, as well as art galleries, museums, and cultural events that showcase the creativity and diversity of Rome.

Additional tips or recommendations for visitors are to wear comfortable shoes and clothes, as the hill can be steep and slippery; to bring a flashlight or a headlamp if you want to explore the caves; and to book your tour in advance, as they are very popular and limited in number.

Lesser known stories and Interesting Facts

Monte testaccio is made of millions of broken amphorae.

Monte Testaccio is an artificial hill in Rome that consists of fragments of ancient Roman pottery, mostly amphorae that were used to transport and store olive oil. The hill covers an area of 2 hectares and has a volume of about 580,000 cubic metres. It contains the remains of an estimated 53 million amphorae, which represent the enormous demand for oil in imperial Rome.

Monte Testaccio was not a random dump but a carefully engineered structure

The amphorae at Monte Testaccio were not simply thrown away but arranged in a systematic way, creating a series of level terraces with retaining walls. The amphorae were cut in half and nested into each other, forming a stable pattern. The hill was probably managed by a state administrative authority that regulated the disposal of the amphorae.

Monte Testaccio has inscriptions that reveal information about Roman trade and economy

Many of the amphorae at Monte Testaccio have markings known as tituli picti, which indicate the origin, content, quality, and maker of the jars. These inscriptions provide valuable insights into the trade networks, production centres, consumption patterns, and prices of olive oil in the Roman Empire. They also show that most of the oil came from Spain, Libya, and Tunisia.

Monte Testaccio has been used for various purposes throughout history

After the fall of Rome, Monte Testaccio became a site for celebrations, festivals, and religious ceremonies. It was used for jousting tournaments, carnival feasts, passion plays, and picnics. In 1849, it was also a strategic location for Garibaldi's defence of Rome against the French invasion. In the 19th century, wine caves were dug into the hill, some of which are still in use today.

Monte Testaccio is a unique archaeological and cultural heritage site

Monte Testaccio is one of the largest and best-preserved ancient dump sites in the world. It is a remarkable example of how waste can be transformed into a resource and a monument. It is also a testimony to the history, culture, and identity of Rome and its people. Monte Testaccio is now protected by law and open to visitors.

Historical Background

Monte Testaccio was created between the 1st and 3rd centuries AD, when Rome was the capital of a vast empire that stretched from Britain to Egypt. The city had a population of at least one million people, who enjoyed a high standard of living and consumed large quantities of imported goods, especially olive oil. Olive oil was essential for cooking, lighting, hygiene, medicine, and religious rituals. It was also a symbol of wealth and status.

The amphorae that carried the oil were made of clay and had a standard shape and size. They had two handles, a pointed base, and a narrow neck that was sealed with cork or clay. They could hold about 70 litres of oil each and were transported by sea or river on large cargo ships. Once they arrived in Rome, they were stored in warehouses near the Tiber port or distributed to shops and markets across the city.

The amphorae were not meant to be reused or recycled. They were considered disposable containers that had no value once they were emptied. They were also difficult to clean and repair because of their shape and material. Therefore, they were discarded in designated areas outside the city walls, where they accumulated over time. One of these areas was Monte Testaccio, which was located near the Horrea Galbae, a complex of state-owned warehouses that stored olive oil for public distribution.

The disposal of the amphorae at Monte Testaccio was not random or chaotic but organised and regulated. The amphorae were carried up the hill by donkeys or mules and then broken up on the spot by workers who followed a specific procedure. They cut off the necks and bases of the jars and then split them in half along their vertical axis. They then placed the halves on top of each other, forming concentric rings that created level terraces. The necks and bases were used to fill the gaps between the rings and to reinforce the retaining walls. The amphorae were also arranged according to their origin and date, creating distinct layers that can be identified by archaeologists.

The reason why the Romans built Monte Testaccio in this way is not entirely clear. Some possible explanations are that they wanted to save space, prevent fires, avoid pests, facilitate drainage, or create a stable and durable structure. Whatever the motive, Monte Testaccio is a remarkable example of Roman engineering and waste management that reflects the economic and social aspects of life in ancient Rome.

Nearby Restaurants

• Felice a Testaccio A traditional Roman trattoria that serves classic dishes such as cacio e pepe, carbonara, and saltimbocca. It is famous for its tiramisu and its wine cellar.
• Flavio al Velavevodetto A restaurant that is built into the hill of Monte Testaccio and offers a panoramic view of the ancient pottery. It specialises in seasonal and local cuisine, such as artichokes, lamb, and cheese.
• Da Bucatino A family-run restaurant that has been operating since 1935. It is known for its generous portions of pasta, meat, and fish dishes. It also has a wide selection of wines and desserts.

Nearby Attractions

• Testaccio Market A lively and colourful market that sells fresh produce, meat, cheese, bread, flowers, and more. It also has stalls that offer street food, such as pizza, sandwiches, and fried snacks.
• Protestant Cemetery A peaceful and beautiful cemetery that is the final resting place of many famous artists, writers, and scholars, such as John Keats, Percy Shelley, Antonio Gramsci, and Carlo Emilio Gadda.
• Piramide Cestia A pyramid-shaped tomb that was built in the 1st century BC by a Roman magistrate named Caius Cestius. It is one of the best-preserved ancient monuments in Rome and has an Egyptian-style decoration.

Monte Testaccio is a unique attraction that offers a glimpse into the history, culture, and identity of Rome. It is not only an archaeological site but also a place for entertainment, recreation, and gastronomy. It is a hill that tells many stories and invites visitors to discover its secrets.

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Visiting monte testaccio – monte dei cocci.

When you’re looking for ancient architecture in Rome, the first things that come to mind are: the Colosseum, the Pantheon, and the Forum. Maybe even in that order.

But the early Romans weren’t just great at putting together tall, majestic buildings. If you’re feeling adventurous and want to discover a (literally) hidden relic, check out Monte Testaccio: a man-made hill built with smashed clay urns. 

History of Monte Testaccio

In the heyday of the Roman empire, local olive production couldn’t keep up with the demand. Hence the Romans began importing olive oil from other places like Spain, Tunisia, and Libya. The oil was stored in massive clay jars called amphorae, some of which were as tall as half a person and required two people to lift. The amphorae had stubby feet for its long journey overseas via ship, and sturdy handles for efficient transport. 

These amphorae were carefully crafted and marked with the date and origin of the olive oil inside, but because oil turns the clay rancid over time, the jars couldn’t be reused. Instead, the Romans systematically smashed the pots and stacked them to create Monte Testaccio.

In fact, the name of Testaccio neighborhood’s eponymous mountain comes from a combination of the words testae,   which means shards of earthenware jars, and coccio, which describes a rough terracotta.

Archaeologists believe that the hill (formerly a dumpsite) started around 140 BC to 250 AD, but that’s only based on excavations of the top levels. It’s possible the bottommost pots have been there since the first century BC! Experts estimate that the hill is made up of an astounding 53 million discarded pots.

What to Look For

Today, Monte Testaccio – also known as Monte dei Cocci- stands 35 meters (115 ft) high and 3330 meters (10925 ft) across the base. When you first enter, you’re welcomed by some steps an a wide, tree-lined avenue. Upon closer look at the ground, you’ll see that what you’re stepping on isn’t just dirt, but bits and pieces of pottery. 

You can pick up pieces of pottery from the floor, and observe how each is slightly curved. If you find non-planar pieces, these were the handles and foots of jars. Each jar of olive oil was inscribed with its place of origin and date–providing precious information for archaeologists– so try to find those special pieces too. (Our group had no luck.)

At the top of the hill you’ll get vast, panoramic views of Rome. You can see everything from St. Peter’s Basilica to the cylindrical gasometers where Rome used to store natural gas in its pre-electricity days. 

How to Visit

Monte Testaccio is an important archaeological site that has been covered by various documentaries. Admission requires a phone reservation by calling +39 060608, but the unique history and easy transportation options make the extra effort worth it. 

Plus, it’s located in the heart of Testaccio, so you can stop by Testaccio market afterwards for a delicious lunch of local Roman specialties and affordable shopping!

You can find more info about admission here . And if you can’t quite plan a visit to walk on top of Monte Testaccio, you can get an idea of how the mountain is constructed by eating in the dining room at Flavio al Velavevodetto . The Roman restaurant is one of several carved into the side of Monte Testaccio, but it has installed glass windows inside that offer a glimpse at the ancient, broken and stacked olive oil pots.

Sources: 1 , 2 , 3

Raya is a Taiwanese-American in Rome, studying abroad from UC Berkeley as an Electrical Engineering and Computer Science major. She's discovering the peoples, places, and stories of Italy. She enjoys <a href="https://www.instagram.com/rayacooks/"> painting and cooking</a>, and thinks out loud on her <a href="https://ristrettos.wordpress.com/"> personal blog. </a> Contact her at [email protected]

8 thoughts on “ Visiting Monte Testaccio – Monte Dei Cocci ”

That’s absolutely fascinating! I can’t even begin to imagine how much oil that must have been to leave all those pots! xxx Lucy @ La Lingua | Food, Travel, Italy

Such a cool place with a cool history! I love that oil was like gold even then, and the pots? Disposable!

I’ve always been fascinated by Monte Testaccio, but have not been to mainland Europe yet. Thanks for the vicarious visit. Neat stuff!

I hope you have a chance to visit one day soon!

I teach history–I guess I was luckier than I knew–I visited Tesstacio FORTY years ago, as a college student– history major even then… and back then, nobody gave a damn… NO fences, gates, signs, etc… and no one around… quiet, peaceful… ignored… and it was LEGAL.. Took a couple of little pieces home which I still have. Figured–since it was legal at the time– I’m not exactly “looting” under the circumstances…. with millions of broken pieces around…but I can see why they would restrict things now….

What an incredible way to visit the site!

Great article, and thank you for the Ketumbar guided tour and lunch trip (they still do it).

So glad to hear that! Hope you enjoyed the unique trip up the hill!

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16 Great Things To Do In Testaccio Traditional Rome District

Barely included in the classic tours of Rome, Testaccio is one of those Rome neighborhoods where you can feel the Roman vibe, experience a traditional way of living, and discover historical sites from ancient and modern times.

There are so many things to do in Testaccio that depending on how much time you have in the city, I would suggest devoting to this neighborhood at least half a day if not a whole day, maybe including also some sights from nearby neighborhoods such as Ostiense, the Aventine Hill or even Trastevere after crossing the river.

If you don’t mind walking or using Rome public transport , you can even book your accommodation in Testaccio. It’s a lovely area to stay in Rome , is well connected with the Centro Storico via bus, tram, and metro, and has plenty of restaurants to enjoy your dinner before heading back to your room after a day of sightseeing.

The things to do in Testaccio offer a great variety of sights. From contemporary street art to the most ancient archaeology, a tour of this neighborhood is a fascinating Roman experience.

Make sure you read our guide to navigating and using Rome metro .

Table of Contents

Fantastic things to do in Testaccio

Visit the protestant cemetery.

Founded to be the last resting place for foreigners and people belonging to other religions, the Protestant Cemetery of Rome is probably one of the first places to visit in Testaccio. Even though less famous than big tourist draws like the Colosseum or the Vatican Museums, the Protestant Cemetery is a favorite photography spot for locals because of the many beautiful statues decorating the graves and the stories behind them.

With tombs of notables like the English poet John Keats and the famous Italian writer Andrea Camilleri as well as several diplomats, the Protestant Cemetery is a very scenic spot in the area located in the shade of the big Pyramid of Cestius.

• Where: Via Caio Cestio 6.
• When: Every day 9 am-4.30 pm.

See the Pyramid of Cestius

The tomb of ancient Roman politician Caius Cestius was built between 18 and 12 BC when Rome was living a highly Egyptian-influenced period. This is one of the most famous landmarks in Testaccio, giant and conveniently located between the Protestant Cemetery and the ancient Porta San Paolo gate.

Measuring 36 meters (118 feet) in height and 30 (about 100 feet) in width, the Cestia Pyramid is entirely coated with Carrara marble blocks, giving it its candid white color. Inside, the pyramid is finely decorated with ancient frescoes.

Even though unfortunately it’s generally closed to the public, Piramide Cestia opens its door to visitors only with a certified guide. You can book your visit by emailing the Council-credited tour company Coop Culture at [email protected].

• Where: Via Raffaele Persichetti.
• When: Temporarily closed.

Go through Porta San Paolo

Porta San Paolo is one of the historical gates of the Aurelian Walls of Rome. Built around the 3rd century AD, its ancient name was Porta Ostiensis because the Via Ostiense road connecting Rome to Ostia started from here. Its current name was given when Christianity took over.

This majestic gate has been the theater of several important events including the siege of Rome by the Ostrogoths in 549 AD and the German invasion in 1943. Inside is Museo della Via Ostiense showing relics from the ancient road.

• Where: Piazza di Porta San Paolo
• When: the museum is temporarily closed.

Walk Via Marmorata

One of the cool things to do in Testaccio is a walk through Via Marmorata, one of the longest and main roads of the area lined up with shops and restaurants. Named after the large storage of marble and stones brought to Rome via river or land, Via Marmorata is very ancient.

Don’t miss the relics from its past such as the Arch of San Lazzaro used from 1400 by pilgrims on their way to the tomb of St. Paul in the nearby Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls .

See Monte dei Cocci

Easy to miss but pivotal in the history of the area is Monte Testaccio, also known as Monte dei Cocci (Italian for “mount of shards”). This is a 54-meter (177 feet) manmade hill that rose near the river port of ancient Rome. It is made of “ testae “, fragments of the ancient jars, from which the area took its name “Testaccio”.

This is where the terracotta jars (amphorae) filled with oil and farming goods were unloaded after reaching Rome. Due to the decomposing nature of their load, the oil jars couldn’t be re-used. To dispose of them, they were made in pieces and piled up adding a coat of lime.

Monte dei Cocci is essentially an ancient dumping site precious to understanding the trades and food customs of Rome until around the 3rd century AD.

• Where: Via Nicola Zabaglia 24.
• When: Always open.

Visit Piazza Testaccio

A locals’ favorite hangout and from where smaller alleys spread out, Piazza Testaccio is a pleasant place to enjoy the shade of the big trees all around, especially in summer. One of the things to see in Testaccio is the fountain in the center of this piazza.

Known as Fontana delle Anfore (amphoras fountain), it’s symbolic of the neighborhood’s history. An important trading hub where the goods reached Rome from the different parts of the empire, we see icons of jars and amphorae returning all around Testaccio.

Check out our article on the most famous fountains in Rome for more sculptural beauties!

Duck into Santa Maria Liberatrice church

Chiesa di Santa Maria Liberatrice is a very recent church built early 20th century on the land the Holy See bought during the papacy of Pope Leo XIII. The construction works, however, started under Pope Pius X.

The church was given the same title as an ancient church formerly in the Roman Forum that was demolished to bring back to light the ruins of the early-Christian church of Santa Maria Antiqua. Santa Maria Liberatrice in Testaccio has a neo-Romanesque style and is rich in artwork including beautiful mosaics.

• Where: Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice
• When: Every day 6.45 am-12 pm (1 pm on Sunday) and 4-7.30 pm.

Shop at Mercato Testaccio

A popular shopping hub for the residents, Mercato Testaccio is a pleasant stop for a number of reasons. Here, you can sip a coffee, stroll around colorful stalls selling local products, and see the ruins in its undergrounds.

Formerly a covered market all around Piazza Testaccio for little less than 100 years, today Mercato Testaccio still shows the authentic side of Rome. The sellers of this new glass-covered location are the still same and the market is a triumph of fresh produce, street food meals, as well as clothes and accessories.

Mercato Testaccio is perfect also if you are looking for authentic souvenirs from Rome that are not too expensive.

• Where: entrances are in via Beniamino Franklin, via Alessandro Volta, via Aldo Manuzio, and via Lorenzo Ghiberti.
• When: Monday to Saturday 7 am-3.30 pm. Sunday closed.

Don’t miss our article on the best food markets in Rome .

See an exhibition at the ex-Mattatoio

A visit to Rome’s former slaughterhouse where the meat was prepared and sent to the whole city is one of the things to do in Testaccio for art lovers. The complex was built between 1888 and 1891 from a project by Roman architect Gioacchino Ersoch and remained operative until 1975.

Fully restored between 2006 and 2010, the building with its pavilions is one of the most important relics of Rome’s industrial archaeology. Today, the ex-Mattatoio hosts exhibitions, performances, and workshops related to modern and contemporary art, photography, and video installations.

• Where: Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4
• When: Tuesday to Sunday 10 am-8 pm. Monday closed.

If you are interested in Rome’s industrial past, check out our article on the modern vestiges of the Ostiense neighborhood.

Attend an event at Città dell’Altra Economia

Città dell’Altra Economia is a large space, some 3500 sq mt (around 37600 sq ft), devoted to what Romans call the “other” economy. Here you can shop and attend festivals promoting healthy initiatives organic farming, sustainable energy and tourism, ethical finance, and fair trading.

One of the coolest things to do in Testaccio, some of the events organized here included an artisan beer festival, a local handicrafts market, and practical shows and fairs for adults and kids, perfect if you are traveling to Rome with your family.

• Where: Largo Dino Frisullo
• When: Tuesday to Sunday 7.30-12 am. Monday closed.

Don’t miss our tips on what to do in Rome with a toddler !

See the Emporium and Porticus Aemilia ruins

Not only traditional food and industrial archaeology, but Testaccio is also the place where to find ancient sites such as Emporium and Porticus Aemilia.

Emporium is Rome’s old river port and was built around the 2nd century BC as a pivotal trading hub for important food supplies such as oil, wheat and wine. Replacing the old Tiberinus port, Emporium quickly started serving the whole city and was equipped with a large storage building, Porticus Aemilia.

Even though we can only see parts of both buildings, they are precious relics of the daily life of ancient Rome and make for a great addition to your Testaccio tour.

• Where: Emporium can be seen in Lungotevere Testaccio 11 while Porticus Aemilia can be found in Via Beniamino Franklin, via Rubattino and via Florio.

Join a local tour

One of the activities I suggest you do in Testaccio is to join a guided tour. Testaccio is a great neighborhood to visit in Rome, but little touristy. With the help of a local you will gain a much wider knowledge about the place and enjoy your visit more.

Some of the landmarks to see in Testaccio are probably not super easy to find, not many people speak English to give you directions effectively, and finding the right restaurants might not be as straightforward as you think.

Additionally, private tours usually last some two hours, so you can use the remaining of your time exploring deeper the places in Testaccio you enjoyed more.

If you need some inspiration, check out my reviews of the Testaccio food tours I joined, Taste of Testaccio with Eating Europe and Food and Market Testaccio Tour with Devour Tours .

Try the local food

Being a traditional neighborhood, one of the best things to do in Testaccio is certainly to taste authentic Roman food. In fact, there are a few places where you can do that. The first restaurant that comes to my mind is Felice a Testaccio , famous for its tonnarelli cacio e pepe but also for other local fares such as coda alla vaccinara oxtail and carbonara spaghetti.

Some other places where to order your hearty Roman meal ? Piatto Romano (Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni 62), another historic local restaurant, and the affordable trattoria Lo Scopettaro (Lungotevere Testaccio 7).

Feeling active and want a grab-and-go meal? Try Trapizzino ‘s pizza pockets stuffed with Roman classics or a quick sandwich from Mordi e Vai in Mercato Testaccio.

Don’t miss our guide to the best street food places and cheap eats in Rome.

See the local street art

Even though not as much as in Ostiense , Testaccio also has some street art. Close to Mercato Testaccio, you will see the giant mural of the Jumping Wolf by Ghent-born street artist Roa.

For lovers of contemporary art expressions and street art, this is definitely one of the things to do in Testaccio. There are works from international muralists also at the Mercato Testaccio with the women of famous Italian artist Alice Pasquini, and at the Città dell’Altra Economia with Laura Luvi’s “Il domatore di fiori selvaggi”.

• Where: Via Galvani, ex-Mattatoio, Città dell’Altra Economia, Mercato Testaccio.

Don’t miss our article on all the things you can do in Rome for free .

Enter Rome War Cemetery

Rome War Cemetery is the large and green resting place for the soldiers belonging to the Commonwealth who died here during WWII. It’s located between the Aurelian Walls and the Protestant Cemetery, it was designed by French architect Louis de Soissons and is open to visitors.

• Where: Via Nicola Zabaglia 50
• When: Monday to Friday 8 am-3 pm. Saturday and Sunday closed.

Visit nearby neighborhoods

It might look too out of the way, but Testaccio is actually close to the city center and very easy to reach. If you are staying one week in Rome , I would even suggest you devote a whole day to these more offbeat districts and reach everywhere on foot.

Go to the trendy Ostiense neighborhood to discover Rome’s modern history and beautiful street art, or the elegant Aventine Hill to see fascinating ancient churches and stunning views.

Both Ostiense and Aventine Hill are within easy stroll reach but you can also use local public transport for a stop or two if you want to save some time and properly explore also these other neighborhoods.

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Monte Testaccio Hill

Written by: Kate Zusmann

Monte Testaccio hill and the neighboring Testaccio district got their name from Monte Testaccio – the most prominent artificial mounds of Ancient Rome. It is definitely for those tourists who want to see another Rome. This picturesque area, of which many of you have not heard, is located within 2km walking distance from Colosseum .

Here you can see the true Roman life, visit the only Egyptian pyramid in Rome and stop by the most beautiful Protestant cemetery in the world. Little did you know that the typical Roman dish – trippa alla Romana (tripe), was invented in Testaccio.

Moreover, the first ever football much of beloved Roman team ROMA also took place here

During Ancient times Testaccio neighborhood hosted a river port called Emporium through which the city of Rome was supplied by goods from Ostia – sea and trade gates of Rome. The most popular interest was olive oil, shipped in amphorae, ancient Roman pottery. These amphorae were saturated with oil within a certain period and exuded an unpleasant smell. Such amphorae were not suited to be reused and therefore were collected together outside of the city. Piled together, shards of amphorae were sprinkled with lime to neutralize the smell of rancid oil. Thus, the remnants eventually created an artificial hill called Monte Testaccio.

Centuries later, the hill was overgrown with grass and bushes, and people eventually forgot that it used to be the most considerable amphorae city dumpster. During the Middle Ages, some even claimed that the hill comprised remains of city buildings diminished by the Great Fire of Rome.

Today, Monte Testaccio is an excellent source of information on the trade relations of the Roman Empire and its economic power. Moreover, Monte Testaccio is another proof of Rome’s historical richness, as even the city dumpster has its history.

What to see

Following is the list of must-visit places and instructions on how to get to Monte Testaccio.

Pyramid of Cestius

Pyramid of Cestius (Piramide di Caio Cestio/ Piramide Cestia): there are 8 Egyptian obelisks in Rome (together with 5 Roman replicas), and their appearance does not surprise tourists. During Ancient times, obelisks were mainly placed on hippodromes, and only later, during the rule of Pope Sixtus V, were obelisks placed on the church squares to show the way for pilgrims. However, the Pyramid of Cestius is only one of its kind.

The pyramid was built around 12-18 BC. It was constructed as a tomb of Gaius Cestius – a magistrate and member of one of Rome’s four great religious corporations. It is believed that he commissioned the tomb’s construction after Egypt became part of the Roman Empire and Egyptian architecture was at its peak.

The best look to the Pyramid of Cestius opens up from the green zone with benches (from the entrance of Protestant cemetery). Inside of the tomb is embellished with 16-century frescoes

• Address: Via Raffaele Persichetti, 00153

Protestant cemetery

The Protestant cemetery (Cimitero Acattolico) is located in the Testaccio district, next to the Aurelian wall and Pyramid of Cestius. You will be surprised to hear that this cemetery is considered quite a charming place despite its purpose. With graceful sculptures and gravestones, and well-groomed lawns, the Protestant cemetery is not a typical tourist spot. However, the most famous people buried there are English poets John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelly, American poet Gregory Corso, and Goethe’s son Augustus. 

• Address: Via Caio Cestio, 6, 00158
• Opening hours: Mon-Sat 9 am – 4:30 pm, Sun 9 am -12:30 pm
• Entrance: free

9 amtaccio market

If you want a shopping experience in a truly local Roman market , you must visit Testaccio market (Mercato Testaccio). Numerous stands sell  fresh vegetables, fruits, meat, and fish. Moreover, you can also find clothes, bags, and leather goods from local production.

In addition, Testaccio market has its food court right inside it. There, you can sit comfortably and have a lunch break. The menu offers a range from Roman-style pizza and plates of pasta to typical street food – suppli (fried rice balls usually stuffed with mozzarella) and panini (sandwimozzarellau can also find a wide range of home-made wine and prosecco, which can be brought back home as a souvenir.

• Address: Via Beniamino Franklin, 00153
• Opening hours: Mon – Sat 7 am – 3.30 pm
• Website: mercatoditestaccio.it

How to get to Testaccio

• Metro: line B Pyramide
• Train: Roma Ostiense
• Tram: N3 – Porta S. Paolo

Author: Kate Zusmann

I have lived in the Eternal City for the past 12 years. They say every angle of Rome has its history, and I'm here to tell you about the most intriguing historical facts and city legends. :)

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The Best Testaccio Market Tour in Rome

Discover why taking this Testaccio Market tour in Rome is a must for curious foodies who travel to Rome.

Rome’s Testaccio neighborhood is all about food. Yet, somehow, we never made it to the city’s culinary nerve center of restaurants and markets during our first visit to the eternal city.

We’ve since made up for lost time by eating our way through the Mercato Testaccio numerous times. We’ve also sampled ‘the Roman four’, the city’s famous quartet of pastas, at classic Testaccio trattorias and licked gelato cones while wandering through the area’s grid of streets.

But, as is typically the case with Rome in general and Testaccio in particular, there are always new things to discover. We realized this while taking a fascinating tour that revealed hidden neighborhood gems and introduced us to the ghostlike Mattatoi, Testaccio’s former slaughterhouse that’s been converted into a large mixed use cultural facility. This former stockyard area of Rome is deep in history and food.

Testaccio Food and Market Tour

While the secret’s out about the formerly hard-scrabble neighborhood and its walkable grid, Testaccio has retained a non-touristy vibe over the years. Much of the credit goes to to its many long-term residents and their multi-generational businesses.

Taking a Testaccio food and market tour allowed us to dig deeper into the neighborhood’s hidden culinary treasures. And, as a fun bonus, the tour introduced our nephew Max, fresh off the train from his studies in Florence , to some of Rome’s most iconic dishes .

Getting a good vibe when we met our Devour guide, AnnaMaria, we suspected that we were in for a few fun hours of food exploration in Rome, or as she called it – a lasagna city with lots of layers. Spoiler Alert – Our suspicion was correct.

Hungry Like The Wolf

We arrived at Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice, the designated Testaccio meeting, point hungry. It was a good move as we’d be making seven food stops during the tour. And, since legend has it that a she-wolf had a key role in founding Rome, we joked that we were hungry like the wolf.

Apparently, the joke was on us since we quickly encountered two of Rome’s most famous wolves. Not only did we meet in front of a statue recreating the infamous she-wolf of Romulus and Remus fame, but we also walked past a hungry she-wolf mural painted by Belgian street artist Roa.

Don’t worry. We weren’t hungry for long. It was still morning in Testaccio or as we now call it – it was maritozzi time.

Food Stop 1 – Typical Roman Breakfast at Pasticeria Linari

Italians don’t typically eat big breakfasts. Most start their days with a quick pastry and coffee at the neighborhood bar. While that pastry is usually a cornetto in much of Italy, Romans go a different route with their local favorite – the maritozzo . We followed this trend at our first stop, Pasticceria Linari , a popular Testaccio pastry shop that opened in 1971.

Fun Fact A maritozzo is essentially a brioche bun split down the middle and stuffed with a prodigious amount of whipped cream. Romans have been eating maritozzi since the 19th century when suitors would present buns filled with cream… and a ring… to their intendeds in early March.

Since we had a lot of food ahead, we were pleased that AnnaMaria split the maritozzi in half before serving them to us along with our coffees. Of course, that didn’t stop us from getting cream on our faces which was part of the fun.

Market Time At Mercato di Testaccio

Originally a neighborhood market when it opened in 2012, Mercato di Testaccio (i.e. the Testaccio Market) attracts locals from throughout the city as well as a throng of global food travelers. Some seek locally sourced artisan products while others linger over lunch. The most savvy shoppers come to this market to buy food and stay to eat foods like suppli and porchetta sandwiches.

We were happy to be in AnnaMaria’s capable hands during the tour. Although we’d shopped at the market prior to the tour, this would be our first time interacting with some of its vendors.

Food Stop 2 – Prosciutto And Cheese Tasting At Mania Del Gusto

Rome is in Italy so it made perfect sense for the first market stop to involve hand-cut prosciutto and cheese. We’ll call it a morning aperitivo since we sipped wine at this stop too.

To be clear, we didn’t just nibble on one prosciutto slice and one piece of cheese. Instead, the team at Mania del Gusto welcomed us to the market with two hand-sliced meats, one sourced from Parma and the other from Umbria, as well as ricotta, mozzarella and provolone cheese samples.

Food Stop 3 – Pizza Three Ways at Artenio

Ah, pizza. How do we love thee? Let us count the ways. First, we love you when you’re topped with tomato sauce. Second, we love you when you’re topped with potato. And, third, we love you topped with onions.

Okay, these aren’t actually our favorite pizza toppings. But the pizzettes , i.e. miniature pizzas, we ate at the Artenio stall had these three toppings and they hit our pizza spot. Our favorite was the pizzette rosse topped with tomato sauce. The stall also sells breads stuffed with olives and cookies baked with wine, both of which justify a future return visit.

Discover our favorite Rome pizzerias .

Food Stop 4 – Cherry Tomatoes at Frutteria Campagna Amica

Keeping the tomato theme going, our stop at Frutteria Campagna Amica was all about the fruit that doubles as a vegetable. Temporarily distracted by the stall’s array of seasonal zucchini flowers and figs, we rallied to sample red and yellow cherry tomatoes.

Both tomatoes were good but we preferred the candy-like red cherry tomatoes. We later learned that all of the stall’s produce is grown near Lazio’s border with Umbria and Abruzzo. Fantastico !

Food Stop 5 – Panini at Mordi e Vai

Stopping at Mordi e Vai was a tour highlight for us since it was already on our Rome eating list. The popular market stall sells a range of panini including the late Sergiio Esposito’s signature Panino con l ‘ Allesso di Scottona filled with slow-cooked beef and chicory.

AnnaMaria offered us two panini choices. We could try either the stall’s signature sandwich or one filled with tripe. We all opted for the signature sandwich and it didn’t disappoint. Even Max, who’s not usually much of a sandwich fan, approved.

Water Fountain Lesson

Our next stop didn’t involve food, unless you consider water to be a food, and yet it may end up being the most memorable stop of the tour. At this stop, AnnaMaria taught us how to properly drink from a nasone , i.e. a Roman water fountain.

Sure, anybody can fill a water bottle with the clear liquid. Thanks to this lesson, we can now drink water from a nasone like a Rome local.

Fun Fact Rome has more than 2,000 nasoni sprinkled (pun intended) throughout the city.

Food Stop 6 – Pasta and Wine at Checchino Dal 1887

Although the market portion of our tour ended at Mordi e Vai, the food stops weren’t over. In fact, our next stop at Checchino Dal 1887 was easily the culinary highlight of the tour thanks to proprietor Francesco Mariani.

Mariani didn’t just warmly welcome us to his family’s restaurant. He also introduced us to oxtail ragu, a classic Rome dish that the restaurant claims to have invented.

The claim has validity. Checchino Dal 1887 was located near the Mattatoi slaughterhouse when it opened in 1887. Since then and for six generations so far, its specialty has been fifth quarter cuisine.

Originally cooked out of necessity for people who couldn’t afford more popular animal cuts, this cuisine, in which every part of the animal is used, embraces parts that include the head, tail, legs and offals.

Sitting outside at two long tables, our tour group ate bowls generously filled with oxtail ragu while Mariani regaled us with colorful stories about the historic neighborhood and his family’s equally historic restaurant. He did this while pouring locally produced wine, both red and white, selected from the restaurant’s ancient wine cellar.

Food Stop 7 – Gelato at Brivido Gelateria

Every Italian food tour should end with artisan gelato. Naturally lower in fat, the frozen Italian sweet treat doesn’t require vast amounts of stomach space. Plus, artisan gelato tastes great.

Our final stop at Brivido Gelateria fulfilled this gelato requirement with a bang. A neighborhood fixture since it opened in 1986, the female-owned shop serves a range of flavors that include the usual suspects like pistachio and zabaglione as well more unique flavors like eggnog and salted peanut, some of which are sugar-free and vegan.

Discover our favorite Rome gelato shops .

Tour Logistics

Booking a Testaccio Food and Market Tour with Devour Tours is easy to do based on the following logistics:

Tour Duration

Our tour started promptly at 10:30 am and lasted for three hours and thirty minutes.

We arrived at the meeting point at Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice 15 minutes before the tour’s official start time. This gave us time to find our guide without feeling rushed.

The tour ended at 2 pm at Piazza Testaccio.

Tour Size and Accessibility

At the time of our tour, the participant limit was twelve which was the exact size of our tour. We walked at a moderate pace during the tour and had ample opportunities to sit while eating.

This tour can can be modified to accommodate people with certain diets including vegetarians and pescatarians. You can and should address any dietary limitations prior to booking the tour.

What’s Included

Our tour included seven food tastings. We ate enough food that we didn’t need to eat breakfast or lunch on the day of the tour.

Be aware that some of the establishments we visited may be closed depending on the day of the week or the season. Some may permanently close. In other words, don’t be surprised if your tour includes some different food stops.

Cost and Availability

At the time of our Testaccio Food and Market Tour , the tour cost 79€ for adults and 55€ for children between five and twelve years old. These prices are subject to change at any time.

Consider the following Devour tours if this tour doesn’t fit into your schedule. We personally experienced and enjoyed them both.

• Jewish Ghetto & Historic Center Food Tour
• Trastevere at Sunset: Rome Food & Wine Tour

Also consider the following Devour cooking classes. We attended both and give each a big thumbs up.

• Rome Pasta-Making Class: Cook, Dine & Drink Wine With A Local Chef
• Rome Pizza-Making Class & Dinner in Trastevere

Frequently Asked Questions

Yes! Taking a Testaccio market food tour is a great way to learn about the Testaccio neighborhood and its food culture. Plus, you’ll get the opportunity to interact with local food vendors and fellow food-focused travelers while eating tasty food.

Each tour company sets its own prices. The Testaccio market tour we took cost 79€ at the time of our tour. Your best bet is to check tour company websites for current pricing based on your dates.

Each Testaccio market tour is different. The tour we took was 3.5 hours from start to finish Your best bet is to check tour company websites for details based on your trip dates.

Rome Planning Checklist

• Buy discounted travel insurance from Heymondo .
• Find a great Rome hotel via Expedia or Hotels.com .
• Find an apartment in Rome with a kitchen .
• Buy a Rome travel guide from Amazon so that you don’t miss any bites or sites.
• Buy a universal travel adaptor from Amazon so you can charge your laptop, cell phone and camera in Europe.
• Book a fun Rome tour with GetYourGuide , Viator or Walks .
• Book a tasty Rome food experience .

Check out our  guide to eating in Italy as well as our picks for the best Italian foods and the best Italian desserts before your trip so that you don’t miss a delicious bite.

Hungry for More in Rome?

Disclosures

Article Updates We update our articles regularly. Some updates are major while others are minor link changes and spelling corrections. Let us know if you see anything that needs to be updated in this article. Sponsorship We thank Devour Tours for sponsoring our Testaccio market tour in Rome.

Saveur Magazine’s BEST TRAVEL BLOG award winners Daryl and Mindi Hirsch share their culinary travel experiences and recipes on their website 2foodtrippers. Since launching the site in 2012, they've traveled to over 40 countries in their quest to bring readers a unique taste of the world.

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Eat Like a Local When you Travel

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Nestled on the banks of the Tiber River, Testaccio’s origins can be traced back to ancient Rome when it served as a bustling port and commercial hub.

Over time, Testaccio evolved into a working-class area , attracting a diverse community of labourers and artisans. Only during the 1990s, Testaccio experienced a remarkable transformation, transitioning from its industrial roots to becoming a trendy and sought-after area. 

Today, the Testaccio neighbourhood stands as a cultural hotspot, renowned for its lively atmosphere, culinary delights, and a thriving arts scene. Despite its shift towards modernity, Testaccio has managed to preserve its authentic character, making it an important and beloved neighbourhood for Romans, who cherish its history, traditions, and vibrant local life.

The neighbourhood – or rather, rione – possesses a distinct identity. It is so powerful that it is not uncommon for those born and raised in the area to identify themselves as “natives of Testaccio” even before considering themselves Romans.

Testaccio still preserves its authentic character

Let’s explore some things you might want to do to discover the soul of this neighbourhood.

1. Try Everybody’s Favourite Roman Street Food

Testaccio is where the trapizzino was born. Featured in the New York Times pages, the Trapizzino is one of the most beloved Roman street foods, born from the culinary genius of chef Stefano Callegari.

They are fresh pizza pockets with a filling – you can choose your favourite one among several more or less traditional options. You can go for Roman classics like meatballs in tomato sauce or cacciatora (“hunter-style”) chicken. Try the one with aubergine parmigiana, or experiment with one of the 3 special flavours that vary based on the seasonality and creativity of the chef.

Trapizzino shop in via Giovanni Branca

Today, the trapizzino is served in various shops – six in Rome, three in Milan, and one in New York – but this is the first and original one. You can find it at 88 via Giovanni Branca.

2. Admire the Street Art

Testaccio has become a hub for artistic expression, attracting both local and international street artists. Some notable artworks in Testaccio include:

• “La Pelanda” Mural : Located on the facade of the former slaughterhouse turned cultural centre, this large-scale mural depicts colourful and abstract geometric shapes. It symbolises Testaccio’s transformation into a creative and cultural district.

Testaccio’s former slaughterhouse is now an artistic hub

• “Jumping Wolf” : Also known as “ il lupo che salta ” in Italian, was created by the Belgian artist Roa in just one day.

The street art movement in Testaccio started as a response to the neighbourhood’s transformation and gentrification. As this area of Rome underwent redevelopment, street artists saw an opportunity to reclaim public spaces and express their creativity. 

The artworks serve as a form of visual storytelling, representing the neighbourhood’s history, cultural identity, and social issues. They also attract tourists and art enthusiasts, contributing to the vibrant and dynamic atmosphere of Testaccio.

3. Attend an Event at Città dell’Altra Economia

Città dell’Altra Economia means “City of Alternative Economy”. This large space is located in Largo Dino Frisullo, and it’s entirely dedicated to businesses and practices with a low environmental impact, placing people and the environment at the forefront.

It’s not only a venue for promoting all aspects of the alternative economy in Rome – it hosts a Sunday organic farmers’ market – but it also provides spaces for exhibitions, sales, and themed events. 

In Città dell’Altra Economia several events take place all year round

4. Go Clubbing

Monte Testaccio is a truly unique place – but I’ll tell you the story later, at point #8. Over the centuries, caves were carved into the base of the hill, originally used as cellars and stables (commonly known as grottini ). 

Nowadays, these spaces have been transformed into lively restaurants and disco-pubs, adding vitality to Rome’s nightlife . There are numerous clubs, including some specialising in vintage disco music or Latin American beats. Since they are all in the same area, you can even choose to move from one venue to another for an exciting night out.

5. Visit Mercato Testaccio

The Testaccio Market is an institution. This market is no longer just a simple place to buy the best fruits and vegetables or other food specialties. 

You’ll love Testaccio Market

After the recent renovation, the Testaccio market has transformed into a trendy place to go for a unique lunch or refined shopping experience. 

Several stalls in Testaccio Market offer delicious and freshly cooked food

If you enjoy eating well at fair prices, you absolutely cannot miss a visit to the market .

Seats inside Mercato Testaccio

6. Capture a Photo of “The Blond Tiber”

The name of the Tiber River, during Roman times, was Albula, derived from the Latin word “albus,” which means white, referring to its clear waters. It is interesting to note how the ancient Romans used to call this river, namely the “blonde” Tiber.

In fact, its waters, at least in antiquity, must have appeared yellowish due to the sand and silt they carried, which also contributed to the fertility of the lands they flowed through.

A picture of the river Tiber seen from Ponte Testaccio

The Testaccio district is located right by the river, and it is possible to take a stroll along the riverbank or capture some photos from the two bridges in the area.

8. Walk by Via di Monte Testaccio

Monte Testaccio is no ordinary hill. This beautiful hill, measuring approximately 54 metres in height, is also known as Monte dei Cocci (Mount of Shards). It served as a designated site where a vast quantity of shards, mostly from amphorae used for transporting goods in the nearby Tiber River port, were systematically discarded and accumulated.

Monte Testaccio seen from Campo Boario

These fragments were meticulously arranged, and the accumulation steadily grew in both volume and height until it ceased during the Middle Ages. It was during this period that Monte Testaccio became a venue for events, as it remains to this day.

9.  Learn About AS Roma Football Team

AS Roma – one of Rome’s football teams – has a deep-rooted and cherished relationship with the Testaccio neighbourhood in Rome. The club’s connection to Testaccio dates back to its inception in 1927 when the team was founded in the area.

Testaccio has long been a hotbed of passion and support for AS Roma, with the local residents embracing the club as their own.

If you are a football enthusiast, make sure not to miss the celebration of AS Roma’s victory in Testaccio

The Testaccio neighbourhood has been the heart and soul of AS Roma’s fan culture. It is home to the famous Curva Sud, the dedicated stand where the club’s most passionate supporters gather to create an electrifying atmosphere during matches. The streets of Testaccio come alive with chants, flags, and the vibrant red and yellow colours of AS Roma whenever the team plays.

10. Shop for Unique Clothing

With the process of gentrification, Testaccio has truly become a thriving artistic and cultural hub. There are numerous exquisite boutiques here, including several bespoke clothing stores. The stores make Testaccio one of the best shopping areas in Rome.

Head to Testaccio for unique clothing

If you have a penchant for a consistently unique and refined look, I highly recommend shopping in this area.

11. Have Gelato

There’s never a wrong time for gelato . Testaccio boasts a hidden gem of an ice cream shop that I hold dear, primarily because it stands out as one of the few town establishments offering a vegan coffee gelato flavour.

Additionally, Brivido serves a variety of classic ice cream flavours in a cone, including zuppa inglese (Italy’s take on trifle) and ice cream crafted entirely from fresh, ripe fruit.

Its name is Brivido, and you can find it in via Giovanni Battista Bodoni 62.

12. Have an Authentic Roman Lunch

Testaccio is known for its authentic Roman atmosphere and is home to several renowned restaurants that specialise in Roman cuisine. 

Testaccio is home to several restaurants offering traditional Roman cuisine

As a child, my parents often took me to this neighbourhood to indulge in the traditional dishes passed down through generations. Among the notable establishments in the area are Felice a Testaccio, Lo Scopettaro, and Flavio al Velavevodetto.

The Best Things to Do and Eat in Testaccio, Rome

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Testaccio is our favourite neighbourhood in Rome. As much as we’re in awe of the beauty of the historic centre, the crowds can be overwhelming and we prefer staying somewhere quieter. 

On our last trip we spent a month in Testaccio and fell even more in love with the area. It may not be as pretty as Trastevere (another lovely neighbourhood we often stay in), but it’s quieter and less touristy. 

Even if you don’t stay here, Testaccio is worth visiting for its unusual history, quirky sights, amazing market, and excellent food scene. 

More than anything Testaccio just feels so Italian. There’s a lively atmosphere of normal day to day life—old ladies stocking up in local delis, elderly gentlemen shooting the breeze on a piazza bench, teenagers licking gelato on street corners, stylishly dressed young Italians downing espressos at the bar with their morning cornetto . 

There aren’t many other tourists around so by participating in these daily rituals you allow yourself to become, just briefly, Roman.

Testaccio has a fascinating story, too, and some interesting things to do.

This post was originally published in 2012 after our first trip to the area and last updated in 2021.

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Things to do in testaccio, rome, where to eat in testaccio , where to stay in testaccio, how to get to testaccio, testaccio rome map, more rome posts.

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Taste of Testaccio Food Tour

Our first introduction to Testaccio was on the Taste of Testaccio food tour with Eating Italy. We spent four hours exploring the neighbourhood with frequent stops at foodie shops, markets, takeaways, restaurants, and gelateria to eat incredible food and meet the passionate food creators.

We learnt so much about the neighbourhood and Italian food culture and we ate really well! I highly recommend it as an introduction to the area—it’s one of our favourite non-touristy things to do in Rome .

Read our Taste of Testaccio food tour review for more details. 

Monte Testaccio

In the centre of the Testaccio neighbourhood, there’s a small hill called Monte Testaccio. We didn’t notice it until we learned its story on our food tour.

In Roman times, food such as honey, sugar, wine, and olive oil was transported in terracotta pots called amphorae .

Olive oil degraded the containers, so when they could no longer be used, they were demolished. Testaccio’s hill is actually a rather scenic garbage dump of 53 million broken amphorae .

Restaurants and nightclubs now surround the hill and the layers of amphorae provide natural air conditioning. Some have glass windows within the building so you can see the remnants of the pots that make up the hill.

Non-Catholic Cemetery

Another surprise in Testaccio is discovering the graves of the English poets Keats and Shelley in the non-Catholic cemetery where Protestant foreigners were banished.

The peaceful, garden-like cemetery is a pleasant place to wander, and you can get a good view of the incongruous pyramid (see below). 

Keats’ grave doesn’t bear his name. He requested only the words “Here lies One Whose Name was writ in Water” on his grave, but his friends added “This Grave contains all that was mortal, of a YOUNG ENGLISH POET, who on his Death Bed, in the Bitterness of his heart, at the Malicious Power of his enemies, desired these words to be Engraven on his Tomb Stone .”

They later regretted the addition which made Keats look bitter at the bad reviews of his poetry.

His friend Joseph Severn is buried next to him and is described on his grave as “Devoted friend and death-bed companion of John Keats”.

The Non-Catholic Cemetery is on Via Caio Cestio, 6. Entrance is by donation (€3 is suggested). It’s open 9am-5pm Monday-Saturday and 9am-1pm on Sundays. 

Testaccio Pyramid

Rather bizarrely, Testaccio is home to the Pyramid of Cestius, which feels out of place in a city of Roman ruins. It was built in 12 BC as the extravagant burial tomb of Caius Cestius, a Roman praetor. 

You can get a good view of the pyramid from the Non-Catholic Cemetery. Restoration work was completed in 2015 and since then you can visit inside the pyramid.

Update January 2024: It seems like tours here are no longer available.

Mattatoio Modern Art Museum

From 1890 – 1975, Testaccio was the slaughterhouse district of Rome until the trucks could no longer navigate Rome’s busy roads.

The workers at the stockyard got free meat—but only the bits that couldn’t be sold, so their wives became creative with the rejected heads, tails, hearts, lungs, and intestines.

The tradition lives on and many of the neighbourhood’s restaurants still serve offal. Luckily for us vegetarians, there’s a strong pasta tradition too.

The old Testaccio slaughterhouse is still standing and makes an amazing space for The Mattatoio, a contemporary art gallery.

The vast space has been renovated to incorporate the original features, including the meat hooks hanging from the elevated track that was used to transport the cattle and the animal pens outside.

The Mattatoio art gallery is open from 2 to 8 pm, Tuesday to Sunday (Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, €6, special exhibitions may cost more). 

Testaccio Market

Opposite Mattatoio is the Testaccio market . Since 2012 this contemporary building has been the new home of one of Rome’s oldest markets. 

I love this market. Many of the stalls have been run by the same family for generations, and they have enormous pride in the quality of their produce including seasonal vegetables and fruit, cheese, bread, meat, and fish. 

During our month in Testaccio we came here often for lunch at one of the prepared food stalls. From pizza slices to vegan burgers, pasta to sushi, and salads to Sicilian street food, there’s plenty of choice and you can have a good meal for €5-6. 

There are also clothes and shoe stalls. 

Read about our 12 favourite stalls at Testaccio market . 

Testaccio Market is at the corner of Via Beniamino Franklin and Via Aldo Manuzio. It’s open 7 am to 2 pm Monday to Saturday (closed Sundays). Opening hours of stalls may differ and quite a few also close on Mondays. 

Nightlife 

Testaccio is popular with young Italians for its nightclubs carved into Monte Testaccio such as Akab, L’Alibi, and Caffe Latino. Things don’t get going until after midnight. 

Surrounding Neighbourhoods

You could combine a visit to Testaccio with one of these surrounding neighbourhoods—see our off the beaten track Rome guide for more details.  

• Trastevere – One of Rome’s prettiest neighbourhoods is just over the river. There are a few interesting (and quiet) sights, but it’s most popular for restaurants, bars, and strolling the cobbled streets. See our Trastevere guide for details. 
• Ostiense – Just south of Testaccio is this gritty neighbourhood that’s worth visiting for its street art, the unique Centrale Montemartini museum where ancient sculpture is displayed in an old power plant, and the grand Basilica of St Paul’s Outside the Walls. 
• Aventine Hill – A green and peaceful residential area where you can get a lovely view of the city from the Orange Garden and take a peek at St Peter’s through the Aventine Keyhole. 

See our guide to Rome off the beaten track for more ideas of things to do in the area. 

We were first introduced to Testaccio on the Eating Italy food tour (read our Taste of Testaccio review ) which we highly recommend if you want to discover some delicious eats and learn more about Italy’s food culture.

These are our favourite Testaccio restaurants, pizzerias, cheap eats, and gelaterias: 

The Best Testaccio Restaurants

Restaurants in Italy only open for set hours for lunch (usually 12.30-2.30pm) and dinner (from 7 or 8 pm). Bookings are recommended on weekends or try going early. See our guide to eating in Italy for more tips. 

Flavio al Velavevodetto

Flavio al Velavevodetto is one of the best restaurants in Testaccio and is where we’ve eaten the most often. It’s built against the Monte Testaccio so you can see the broken amphorae in the inside dining room or sit outside on the terrace.

They make one of our favourite versions of the classic Roman dish tonnarelli cacio e pepe (thick spaghetti with pecorino cheese and black pepper). Portions are huge. 

We also like the vegetable antipasti like caponata (sweet and sour aubergine) and zucchine alla scapece (vinegary courgette) and the ravioli. 

Don’t miss the tiramisu—their chocolatey version in a glass is amazing, and I don’t even usually like tiramisu.

Flavio al Velavevodetto:   Via di Monte Testaccio, 97/99. Bookings highly recommended—you can book on their website.

Felice a Testaccio

Felice is Testaccio’s most famous restaurant and bookings are essential (we managed to get a table for 7pm a day in advance). They’ve been serving up classic Roman cuisine since 1936 and their cacio e pepe is often described as the best in Rome. 

Reviews have been mixed since the original owner Felice died, though, and we were somewhat hesitant about visiting. 

I’m glad we did as the tonnarelli cacio e pepe really is that good. The waiter mixes it at your table so the pasta is fully coated in cheesy, peppery goodness. We’ve eaten a lot of cacio e pepe in Rome and Felice’s ties with Flavio’s as our favourite. 

Felice also has other vegetarian pasta dishes that we appreciated in meat-heavy Testaccio. The spaghetti alla Felice with cherry tomatoes, herbs, and ricotta is excellent, although was served a little cold. 

The tiramisu is also very good—like at Flavio al Velavevodetto it’s served with melted chocolate in a glass, although I still prefer Flavio’s version. 

Our only disappointment was that there are no antipasti, so we ordered a plate of asparagus with lemon from the sides menu to start. It was overcooked and overpriced—stick with the pasta. 

Felice a Testaccio : Via Mastro Giorgio, 29. Bookings (by phone or in person) are essential. 

Osteria degli Amici

Most restaurants in Testaccio stick to traditional Roman dishes, so it was refreshing to visit Osteria degli Amici, a small cosy restaurant with a mix of classic and contemporary options. 

They have lots of vegetarian antipasti—we enjoyed the burrata with gazpacho and parmigiana di melanzana (baked aubergine, tomato and cheese). Their cacio e pepe was also good. 

Osteria degli Amici : Via Nicola Zabaglia, 25. Closed Tuesdays. 

Piatto Romano

Piatto Romano is a simple, traditional restaurant that’s friendlier than your average Roman place. I recommend going with whatever they have on special, which included a number of vegetarian dishes when we visited. 

We enjoyed the aubergine with pine nuts and fried ricotta balls as a starter and the taglioni with wild asparagus and garlic as our pasta dish. We found the cacio e pepe (from the normal menu) too salty. 

Piatto Romano : Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni, 62. 

Ristorante Pecorino  

Pecorino is one of the few restaurants in Testaccio that do a vegetarian antipasto of vegetables and beans which is a great way to start the meal. We also like their parmigiana di melanzana (on the secondo menu but we had it as a primo). 

Their cacio e pepe and tiramisu are decent but don’t compare to the versions we had elsewhere. 

Pecorino : Via Galvani 64. Closed Mondays. 

Pizzerias and Cheap Eats in Testaccio

Pizzeria da Remo

Da Remo is a typical Roman pizzeria—basic decor, bustling atmosphere, gruff service, and delicious super thin crust pizzas.

It’s one of the most popular pizzerias in Rome but gets mixed reviews these days. Like with Felice, we thought it might be overrated, but no, the pizzas (especially the margherita) really are excellent. We ate here often—Simon even managed three nights in a row at one point. It costs under €20 for two pizzas and two drinks. 

Get here early to get a table (no bookings). If you don’t want to wait, try Nuovo Mondo around the corner, although it’s not quite as good. 

Pizzeria da Remo: Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice, 44. From 7pm. Closed Sundays. 

Trapizzino 

This is fast food Roman style. Trapizzino is named after Stefano Callegari’s invention—a cross between a pizza and a sandwich with pizza dough stuffed with fillings. There are a few seats or you can take it to the nearby park. A trapizzino is €3.50 so it’s ideal for a quick, cheap meal. 

It’s quite meat heavy, but there are always a few delicious vegetarian options. In the summer these were parmigiana di melanzana (aubergine and parmesan) and zucchini alla scapece (minty, vinegary courgette) with stracciatella di burrata (the gooey middle of mozzarella). 

Their suppli (rice balls) are also excellent—the fillings change so check the ingredients if you’re vegetarian. 

Trapizzino : Via Giovanni Branca, 88. Open all day 12 pm – 1 am. Closed Mondays.   

Fraschetta da Sandro

This simple, friendly bar attracts a mixed crowd of both young and old locals for its vino sfuso (cheap homemade wine on tap) and excellent sandwiches. 

You can choose the ingredients at the counter for your sandwich—we went with pecorino cheese, aubergine, and tomato on a crusty roll and it was delicious. You can also order a plate of meat, cheese and vegetables. 

As sandwiches are only €3 and large glasses of wine €1, it makes an inexpensive lunch in a very local atmosphere. You can also buy the wine by the litre to take away. 

Fraschetta da Sandro : Via Galileo Ferraris, 5. Open 8am-4pm and 5.30-8pm. Closed Sundays. 

Our favourite place for lunch was the Testaccio market (see above) which has a range of food stalls and a central seating area so everyone can order different things and eat together.

We especially loved the pasta at Le Mani in Pasta, salads at Zoe, and vegan burgers at Sano Burger. The most famous stall is Mordi e Vai which sells meaty sandwiches. 

Testaccio Bars

Tram Depot 

Tram Depot is a cute outdoor bar that attracts a young local crowd. It’s a good spot for a coffee or aperitivo. Our Spritz (€5) came with peanuts and taralli (ring-shaped crackers). 

Tram Depot : Via Marmorata, 13. Open summer only from morning until late. 

Gelato and Sweet Treats in Testaccio

Panna & Co

Panna & Co is our favourite gelato spot in Testaccio. All ingredients are natural and they have some unusual and vegan flavours alongside the classics.

Everything we tried was wonderful—chocolate orange, dark chocolate, pistachio, coconut, and the month’s special of almond pesto with candied citron. 

Panna & Co : Via Marmorata, 115. Open 12pm – 11.30pm. 

This old-school, family-run bar has been making gelato since 1890. We loved it when we first visited in 2012, but it didn’t quite live up to our memories this time and we preferred Panna & Co. It’s still a good option if you are passing by.

Via Amerigo Vespucci, 35. Open 7am-midnight. 

Pasticceria Linari

This bar/cafe/cake shop is always busy, but if you can fight your way to the counter (pay at the cash register first) it’s a good place for a quick breakfast with a range of cornetti (croissants), pastries, and pizza rossa. 

Via Nicola Zabaglia, 9. Open 6.30am-9.30pm. 

Pasticceria Barberini 

Another popular bar and cake shop with decent cornetti (croissants) and tasty mini tiramisu chocolate cups amongst many other sweet treats. 

Via Marmorata, 41. Open 6am-9pm. 

Self-Catering in Testaccio

Stock up on picnic ingredients or gifts in this foodie treasure trove where the counters are overflowing with cheeses, salami, olives, bread, fresh pasta, truffles and more.

Via Marmorata 47. Open 8.30am-2pm and 4.30pm-8.15pm (all day on Saturdays). Closed Sundays. 

The best place in the area to buy fresh vegetables and fruit as well as cheese, meat, and bread. See above. 

As there aren’t many hotels in Testaccio, renting an apartment is a good option. It’s useful to have a kitchen to take advantage of the delicious market produce.

Search for apartments in Testaccio on Vrbo .

Years ago we stayed at one of the few hotels, Hotel Re Testa, in the Testaccio market building, but it seems to have gone downhill since we visited and doesn’t get the best reviews. 

You can search for other hotels and B&Bs in Testaccio here. 

• We like to walk in Rome and that is possible from Testaccio—it’s particularly pleasant along the Tiber river. It’s about 20 minutes to Trastevere, 30-40 minutes to the historic centre, and 30 minutes to the Colosseum.
• To save your legs, Testaccio has a metro stop—Piramide is on Metro line B. It’s a 15-minute walk from Piramide to Testaccio Market. 
• You can also get around by bus—we used Google Maps to see the routes. Tickets cost €1.50 and are valid for 100 minutes including transfers. You need to buy tickets in advance from newsstands or tabacchi shops and validate the ticket in the machine when you board the bus. 
• A meter taxi from Termini train station to Testaccio cost us €13. 

From Testaccio to the Airport

• It’s easy to get to Rome Fiumicino airport (FCO) by train from Ostiense train station, next to the Piramide metro stop. It takes 30 minutes and costs €8 each way. The train also goes through Trastevere Station which might be nearer to you depending on which side of Testaccio you are staying on.
• From Rome Ciampino airport (CIA) you can get one of the airport coaches to Termini train station and then the metro or bus from there. Just don’t buy tickets on board RyanAir as we did—we had to wait for ages for their coach to arrive and in the meantime, there were three coaches from Terravision.
• The set price for an airport taxi is €48 to/from Fiumicino and €30 to/from Ciampino. 

Testaccio isn’t the place to stay if you are only interested in visiting the big attractions, but if you want to get under Rome’s skin and see an alternative side of the city, where Romans live, eat, and drink, then we’d recommend giving Testaccio a go.

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12 Comments

“Sun, who tarries on high, contemplating Rome: Greater never you’ve nor shall you in future see greater Than Rome, O sun, as your priest, Horace, enraptured foretold…”

Reply ↓

Beyond the illusion: whether it is Trastevere, Testaccio, Monti, Pigneto or Garbatella, the path is as beaten, and swamped with tourists, as on Piazza di Spagna.

Would you recommend a visit to this neighborhood on a Sunday afternoon/evening? Is the market open? Are most the restaurants/delis closed? Is there energy and people out on the streets? I ask because that’s the only time we can visit, and I’m wondering if it’s worth it, or if it’ll be lackluster and misrepresent the area.

The market might be closed but MACRO is open and I still think it’s worth visiting. The excellent Barberini bakery/cafe is open, and some restaurants will be open although not until around 7.30pm in the evening. Flavio al Velavevodetto opens on Sundays but it might be worth getting a reservation

Thanks for this helpful insight into the neighborhood as well as the review of where you stayed. If I don’t stay in this area when I go to Rome this summer, I will definitely visit it :)

I always dream to see the city of Rome and her beauty. To really learn more about the culture, people and food of a certain place, one should immerse oneself in the neighborhood. I wish I can do all these in my travels in the future. Wow! Italian foods. Look really delicious!

aa very informative!

I loved Testaccio in Rome! Hotel you stayed at looks nice, I stayed at a place in Rome I didn’t really like so definitely will look to stay in the city’s more hip neighborhoods on my next visit!

The hotel is really nice and I’m sure you’d take more advantage of the nightlife than we did :)

Once in a while, we’d better check out some not so famous tourist attractions like Testaccio. This is for the fact that it has less tourists and still has good attractions which we can really appreciate so much. As far as I know, Testaccio has a good cuisine which everyone can check out!

I love Rome! The best way of visiting it is on your feet. I would love to go back one day.

I agree – we love walking around Rome. And there’s plenty of gelaterias and pizza al taglio places to take a break :)

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8 Best Things to Do in Testaccio, Rome

TripSavvy / Christopher Larson

If you have tried other tourist-clogged neighborhoods in the Italian capital of Rome and are ready for something different, visit Testaccio, referred to by locals as the “heart of Rome.” This neighborhood is anchored by the old stockyards and a hill made of amphorae (ancient Roman pots) from ships on the nearby Tiber River, broken into fragments and discarded.

The hill at Monte Testaccio has been transformed into a place where you'll find lavish nightclubs and wine bars; it's where Rome's beautiful people go to enjoy their dolce vita (sweet life).

Foodies like Testaccio because of the traditions attributed to early stockyard workers, such as innards cooked into a stew. The neighborhood is a fun place to explore not only history but many more attractions including pizzerias, a lively covered market, and shops with international organic foods.

Marvel at the Pyramid of Cestius

Pyramid of caius cestius.

Estimated to have been built between 18 and 12 B.C.E., after Rome's conquest of Egypt, the 120-feet-high Pyramid of Cestius once served as the tomb of a wealthy Roman. Over the centuries, it's been ransacked, and some of its surrounding monuments have been relocated to museums. Still, it's a reminder of the phenomenon known as "Egyptomania."

The pyramid, much pointier than the ones you'd find in Egypt, sits in a peaceful cemetery right in the middle of the city.

Tour Testaccio's Street Art

exumo / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0

"Jumping Wolf" by Roa

Testaccio is sort of like an open-air museum os street art. The likes of Blu, Sten Lex, Axel Void, Roa, Tellas, and Iacurci have left their mark on this neighborhood, and you can see the fruits of their labor on buildings big and small, old and new.

One of the best ways to see street art in Testaccio (and Rome, in general) is by motorbike. You can use the nifty STREETART ROME app to help you locate some of the classics, including Iena Cruz's "Hunting Pollution" and Roa's "Jumping Wolf."

Visit Monte Testaccio and the Nightclubs

Tyler Bell / Flickr / CC BY 2.0

Monte Testaccio

The hill known as Monte Testaccio reaches 150 feet high and spans about 220,000 square feet. It's said to have approximately 53 million broken shards of terracotta pots. These amphorae were used to transport olive oil, honey, wine, and other goods.

Also known as Monte dei Cocci ("Mount of Shards"), the hill is located next to the location of the ancient Tiber River port, and the warehouses, which would have been used to store imported goods like olive oil shipped in those jars.

Over the years, interesting facades and murals have been added to sections of the Monte Testaccio neighborhood to transform it into a center for clubs and restaurants housing some of the Capital’s best eateries.

Shop the Market

Mercato di Testaccio

Salumeria Volpetti

Volpetti Salumeria is the place where you can buy everything from pizza and sandwiches to some of Italy's best cheese and meats. It's an amazing and crowded place. Buying provisions for a picnic in a park is the way to go if you're trying to save money—but you won't find anything dirt cheap.

The Mercato Testaccio covered market is another place to find fresh vegetables, meat, and cheese. It's not a tourist market, but it offers a selection of edibles that will impress you if you're used to the limited selection of things in an American market. Around the periphery of the market, you'll see stands selling clothes, shoes, and household items.

Visit the Mattatoio di Testaccio

Mattatoio Roma 

The stockyards representing the southern boundary of Testaccio, wedged between the Tiber and Monte Testaccio, have given way to the impressive building and courtyard Mattatoio di Testaccio. Now, this popular contemporary art exhibition space is the cornerstone of the arts center now occupying the old stockyard buildings.

Built between 1888 and 1891, the structure is considered one of the most significant original examples of industrial archaeology in the city. They haven't really dismantled all the old slaughterhouse mechanisms used to move hanging carcasses through the building for processing so you can get a pretty good idea of what went on there in the early stockyard days.

Learn More About Roman Foods

Città dell'Altra Economia - CAE 

Città dell'Altra Economia

La Città dell'Altra Economia, found in Largo Dino Frisullo, is a very interesting 3,500 square meter farmer's market complex devoted to fair-trade products and organic foods, The complex hosts exhibitions, the SpazioBioRoma organic shop, a restaurant with vegetarian options, education facilities, and a renewable energy center. Lots of festivals use the area in front of the complex, which was the cattle field, or Campo Boario, when the stockyards were in use.

Visit the Jewish Neighborhood

Jewish museum.

As you head back toward central Rome on foot following the pleasant Lungotevere (path running along the Tiber), you can enter what is known as the Ghetto near the Portico d'Ottavia, just across from the Isola Tiburtina, a small uninhabited island. Roman Jews were locked into this corner of Rome at night for more than 300 years starting in 1555. The area is now a thriving neighborhood full of kosher bakeries, restaurants serving Jewish-Roman food, and shops. Here, foodies will find a whole different type of Roman cuisine.

Don't miss the Museo Ebraico di Roma ( The Jewish Museum of Rome), closed on Saturdays and during Jewish holidays. The museum is located in the basement of the Jewish Synagogue located on the Lungotevere de' Cenci.

Savor Roman Ghetto Food Specialties

David Silverman / Getty Images

The food here is quite different than in Testaccio but is just a 15-minute walk away. You'll find many places to choose from and cultural variety in the cuisine, which ranges from pizza and pasta to sushi to Mexican or Israeli food, as well as desserts. The highly recommended dish in the Ghetto section of Rome is Carciofi alla Giudia (famous fried artichokes).

BellaCarne Kosher Grill is a restaurant in the heart of the Roman Ghetto, serving traditional Italian-Jewish cuisine.

Related Articles

More related articles.

Tastes & Traditions of Rome: Testaccio Food and Market Tour

• Explore the authentic Testaccio neighborhood, including its traditional market, and learn why this is the place to go for real Roman food.
• Get tips on how to eat like a Roman from your expert foodie guide so you can make the most of every meal during the rest of your stay.
• Taste some of the freshest products in Rome straight from the market stalls: delicious pizzas, cheeses, cured meats, and the legendary sandwich that redefined Roman street food.
• Dig into classic Roman pasta at a legendary family-run trattoria and wash it down with fantastic Italian wine.
• Chat with the owner of our favorite neighborhood gelateria and get her recommendations for the perfect flavor pairings.

Tour description

Please note that this description is an example and stops or tastes may vary depending on the season, day of the week, and group size. Regardless of where your tour goes, you always have a delicious experience.

Start your morning the Roman way: with coffee and pastries!

The quiet, non-touristy Testaccio neighborhood has long been considered the cradle of Roman cuisine among locals. Today, we’re showing you exactly why that is as we eat and drink our way through some of the area’s best family-run eateries on a Testaccio food tour.

Our morning begins at a bustling café in the heart of Testaccio. You’ll learn how to do breakfast like a local here in Rome (hint: it involves whipped cream-stuffed pastries and freshly brewed coffee). Before you leave, your guide will also introduce you to more of the delicious treats in the pastry case, so you know exactly what to order during the rest of your time in Rome.

Get a taste of everyday Roman life at the Testaccio Market.

From there, it’s off to the historic Testaccio Market, where we’ll sample some of the city’s freshest products surrounded by neighborhood residents doing their daily grocery shopping. Freshly baked pizza, local charcuterie and cheese, and Rome’s most famous sandwich are all on the menu! As we make our way from stall to stall, you'll learn more about the top-quality regional products and the importance of seasonal eating in Italy.

Wrap up your Testaccio food tour with pasta, wine, and gelato.

After tasting our way through the market, we'll make a brief stop at a local monument that serves as a reminder of Testaccio's working-class roots—and how they influenced Roman cuisine as a whole. Then it's the moment you've been waiting for: it's time for pasta! We’ll sit down for a laid-back lunch of quintessentially Roman pasta and wine at a family-run restaurant that rightfully forms a piece of Testaccio’s history.

On the way to the final stop, you'll be humbled by the history of Testaccio as you pass by an Ancient Roman archaeological site filled with broken clay urns used to store olive oil and other goods.

Last but not least, we hope you saved room for gelato! Get to know the owner of our favorite gelateria in Testaccio and discover her tips for spotting the good stuff as you enjoy a cup or cone of your favorite flavors.

By the time we’re through with our Testaccio food tour, you’ll feel ready to eat and shop with the Romans like you’ve lived here your whole life—and know how to find the best food in the city.

Please note that this description is an example and stops or tastes may vary depending on the season, day of the week, and group size. Regardless of where your tour goes, you always have a delicious experience.  

Sites visited

Verified guest reviews, jul 26, 2024.

Thank you for the opportunity to participate in this food tour! We really loved it. My 10 years old son and I participated for the 1st time in this food tour. We loved it! Both of us! It was really good! The tour guide Manuela was fantastic! We could not wish for better! The food was super tasty and the duration of the tour was just perfect. We recommend it for anyone! :)

May 25, 2024

Great experience, fantastic foods, fun tour guide, would definitely recommend

May 11, 2024

Chiara was amazing! Engaging, knowledgeable, professional and courteous!

May 05, 2024

This is an excellent tour. Of course our guide, Mano, made it double excellent. She knows the area and is also known in the area. She is enthusiastic about the tour, the sights along the way and the food offered. She is knowledgeable and answered all questions very well. She made the tour very enjoyable. There are many stops on the way. We saw all the interesting parts of Testaccio like the Mountain/hill and the old slaughterhouse. Many of the tastings were in the Marketplace. It was bustling with locals buying their food for the weekend. The food we tasted was of high quality an MORE than enough. Don't have breakfast before you go on this tour. Excellent tour, excellent guide, excellent foot

Apr 19, 2024

Manuela was a fun, informative guide who loves her city!She was kind to all and energetic and very happy!!! The food and drink selections were terrific. We had a great time on this Devour tour. We’ve enjoyed Devour in Madrid, Barcelona and Lisbon!

Know before you book

Similar tours, trastevere at sunset: rome food & wine tour, trastevere & historic center vip food tour with rooftop spritz, rome pasta-making class: cook, dine & drink wine with a local chef.

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Discovering Testaccio: Rome’s Coolest Neighborhood

Home / Attractions / All Attraction in Rome / Discovering Testaccio: Rome’s Coolest Neighborhood

Testaccio  has a rich history of classic Roman cuisine. This district has been at the center of Rome’s food trade since the dawn of the ancient Roman Empire when large jars, or  “ amphorae ”, brimming with wine or olive oil made their way up the River Tiber, sourced from across the Mediterranean to be offloaded onto Testaccio’s banks.

Cuisine takes center stage throughout this traditional Roman district. Testaccio’s eclectic food market that transforms the neighborhood into one of the most interesting and lively of Rome, forming a unique combination of the ancient traditions and modern twists.

A walking  Testaccio Food Tour will give you the chance to feel like a local, as you taste classical Roman food and witness the avant-garde food trends developing in the city. But as well as world-class cuisine, this neighborhood also serves up some incredible culture.

Click on the History below and let’s explore Testaccio together .

That Testaccio lies off the beaten path is surprising given its history. In antiquity, the district was home to Rome's main port, the Emporium, where the bulk of Rome's food supply was funnelled into the city.

Ancient History

Walk along the river and you can still see traces of the ancient Emporium. The Emporium (port) dates originally to 193 BC and was built to accommodate the vast influx of goods and commerce that flooded the Rome following her defeat of Hannibal and subsequent victory in the Second Punic War.

Arriving in Ostia Antica , goods from all over the Mediterranean would be transported up the River Tiber on oxen-pulled barges. These goods - wine, olives, and all other kinds of foodstuffs sourced from Greece, Northern Africa, Spain and the Italian islands - would then be offloaded here on the banks of Testaccio.

The first Emporium was made of wood; the brick structure you see date roughly to the age of Trajan (97 - 117 AD), so is about as old as the Pantheon . Unearthed in 1952, the Emporium only recently opened to the public through special guided visits. Other traces of Rome’s ancient mercantile history pop up all over the area, though, with the most fascinating being visible right underneath Testaccio Market.

Monte Testaccio (the eighth hill of Rome)

With so man amphorae  flooding into the ancient capital, the Romans needed somewhere to dispose of them. The solution, they found, was to create an outdoor dumpsite . Once these amphorae were deemed unfit for use, they would be removed from the warehouses, smashed, and thrown onto landfill.

Over time this landfill site got higher and higher, until it created Monte dei Cocci , or Monte Testaccio hill .

Inside and underneath this mountain of pots are 53 million broken amphorae . Today, aside from the famous night area of Testaccio, are many tightly clustered clubs and famous restaurants whose designers and builders literally excavated inside the hill to host and stage the famous Movida Romana (Roman nightlife).

Because of this enormous manmade mountain, the amphora has become Testaccio's symbol . To reinforce this, standing in the center of Testaccio's main square is  The Fontana of the Amphora . The motive of the fountain built out of ancient pots refers to the Monte Cocci and to the symbol of the whole quarter.

Testaccio's Romantic poets

Buried in Testaccio's English Cemetary are such names as  John Keats ,  Percy Shelley , and the Italian intellectual and revolutionary  Antonio Gramsci . Visiting Testaccio shortly before his death, Shelley wrote that: "It might make one in love with death, to think that one should be buried in so sweet a place." With the cemetery's towering cypress trees, abundant flowers, and rampant greenery running wild into this shaded stretch of the ancient Aurelian Walls, you can understand exactly what he meant.

Europe's Largest Slaughterhouse

Few people know this, but until 1975 , Testaccio housed Europe’s biggest abattoir. Many of its residents were employed at the slaughterhouse, following in the tradition of their Roman ancestors who too had worked in food some 2,000 years ago.

Of course pay was rather poor for employees at the abattoir. So instead of taking home the finest cuts of meat they worked away on during the day, they took home the off cuts - the tripe to feed themselves and their family. Such dishes have since morphed into  Roman specialities like trippa alla romana and oxtail stew. Don't knock them til you've tried them: they're actually quite delicious.

Nowadays, the whole area has been revitalized to offer useful and engaging services to the community. This centers around the  Macro Contemporary Art of Rome , a conference center, an organic market, and a theater (run by an NGO of immigrants) that offers a spacious outdoor venue for gigs, flea markets, and social events for youth and families.

The Birthplace of Roman Football

It was in Testaccio, in the shadow of the amphorae mountain, that the city’s beloved team  AS Roma  had their first football field. The neighborhood is still a bastion of football fanaticism - parents can be seen kicking footballs around with their kids on Testaccio Square any time of year, graffiti promoting AS Roma lines many of the areas's walls - back in 2017 fans even renamed one of the square of the district after Francesco Totti , the Captain of the last 20 years and the so-called 8 th King of Rome .

Nevertheless, Testaccio is mostly hailed as a bastion of Roman culinary excellence, home to some of the Capital’s best eateries, many of which happen to be just around and inside the new Testaccio market officially opened in 2012.

Testaccio Market

While well-known osterias like Felice  and new hot spots like Trapizzino  receive the most attention, recent times have seen a lot of  foodie interest redirected to the many stalls of Testaccio Market . No longer only selling but also cooking fresh produce, Testaccio Market specialises in typical boiled meat and roman sandwiches with tripe, scottona , and picchiapò .

The variety of the food is high and so inside the market of Testaccio you can find Roman-style pizza with low fermentation, fresh pasta and fried delicatessens like supplì and olive ascolane . The market is even home to a Michelin-starred chef, Cristina Bowerman, who serves meat and soups into paper cups - following a long-deep-rooted philosophy in Testaccio that demands things are  delicious , new , and easy .

Nor is Bowerman the only culinary celebrity in Testaccio Market. Close by is renowned  Chef Marco Morello’s  Italian and international street food venture  Foodbox . The heart and soul of the market, however, lies in its old school stands: the cult following of  Sergio Esposito ’s  Mordi e Vai  (Box 15), sisters  Paola and Francesca’s  fruit and produce stand (Box 33), and married couple  Lina and Enzo ’s deli (Box 89) give a glimpse into the pure simplicity of Italy’s food culture.

Testaccio's Graffiti

The most eye-catching street art is an enormous wolf, the symbol of Rome, painted by the world-famous street artist Roa. All of Roa's works superimpose larger-than-life animals on urban walls (seriously, if you're not yet following her on Instagram, we'd highly recommend you do). But her Testaccio Wolf is surely the most impressive, capturing Rome's wildness and identity, and exhibiting it on a block of flats towering over the most authentic Roman neighborhood of Testaccio.

The Italian artist Blu has also left his mark on Testaccio. Boasting works all over the world from São Paulo to Gaza's West Bank, the eminent artist can now also put his name on perhaps the most colorful building in Rome. Stradling the border between neighboring Ostiense and Testaccio, his piece decorates both sides of a boarded-up warehouse and attracts the attention of everyone passing by with its colorful collage of surrealist faces.

Famous Italian journalist and former director of Il Foglio,  Giuliano Ferrara  said of Testaccio: "Testaccio? It's like staying in New York, here is perfect.”  

Visit Testaccio today and see what he meant for yourself.

Useful Info

OPENING HOURS Testaccio Food Market Monday -Saturday 6:00 am – 2:00 pm Once a month the market keeps open until midnight, it's called Open Day : music, dance (the central bar turns into a milonga), the stalls become spots for an aperitivo or a dinner and it ends up with a deejay set. Restaurants generally close at 2:30 pm and 11:00 pm for dinner, but many clubs stay open until 2 am and 4 am.

What is there to do in Testaccio?

Testaccio is at the beating heart of Rome's buzzing nightlife. All-year round, Rome's young and beautiful make their way from across the city to the  Via di Monte Testaccio  - the road encircling the Monte dei Cocci. Dug into this manmade mountain are almost a dozen bars and clubs where Italians and tourists alike go to party until the early hours.

The music is pretty varied. R&B, hip=hop and electronic music nights are the order of the day (or night, rather) as  Akab  and  Villaggio Globale , both of which you find on the Via di Monte Testaccio.  Caffe Latino  has more of a Latino vibe (no prizes there) and  Caruso Caffe  spins salsa into the early hours.

Where to eat in Testaccio

Da Flavio al Velavevodetto

Located literally inside Monte Testaccio, Da Flavio al Velavevodetto has become a favorite on our   Testaccio Food Tour . Known not only for its historic location but also its highly reviewed pasta dishes and wine selections from both locals and tourists.

Felice a Testaccio

Felice a Testaccio, although not as well known by visitors to Rome, is another highly rated restaurant in the Testaccio area. Visitors here often describe the reasonable prices without losing the authentic Italian food they were looking for.

Antico Forno

Sometimes seen as a hidden gem for tourists, Antico Forno is often praised for their homemade mozzarella and their freshly sliced prosciutto. Others speak highly of the service at Antico Forno, and are very happy to return there whenever they are in Rome.

Pizzeria da Remo

If you want a traditional taste of Roman pizza, it doesn’t get much more authentic than Da Remo. Constantly buzzing, this place serves up cheap, honest Roman street food: pizza, fried baccalà, carciofi alla giudia (fried artichokes). Pretty much anything fried. The place is always heaving and be prepared to share a table. But if it’s some authentic Roman cheap eats you want then you can’t go wrong with Remo.

Offering up the little-known street food treat of Trapizzino (essentially a hollowed-out loaf of bread stuffed with anything from ragù and metaballs to fresh red tomatoes and oozing mozzarella), this recent addition to Testaccio’s food scene is gaining attention among locals and visitors alike. It won’t do you for a meal, but Trapizzino is well worth passing by for a quick snack en route to one of Testaccio’s many attractions.

Where to drink in Testaccio

Oasi della Birra

Situated just off Testaccio’s bustling main piazza, the ‘Oasis of Beer’ offers a literal refuge for anyone wanting to wind away a relaxed evening over something other than wine. Offering an unparalleled selection of tapped beers along with generous platters of cured meats, cheeses, and pasta dishes, Oasi della Birra is a popular haunt for Testaccio’s locals and so promises an authentic experience.

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