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Early Life and Training

Whang-Od, also known as Maria Oggay, was born on February 17, 1917, in the village of Buscalan within Tinglayan, Kalinga , Philippines . Her father, a master tattooist, taught her the art of traditional Kalinga tattooing when she was just 15 years old. Traditionally, only men with special tattooing ancestry were allowed to learn the art, but Whang-Od’s exceptional talent and potential led her father to make an exception. She broke the patrimonial tradition of only male apprentices and became the first female tattoo artist in recorded Kalinga history. Whang-Od’s training included learning the traditional hand-tapped tattooing technique called “batok.” She started by tattooing Butbut headhunters and women, who traditionally earned tattoos from combat-related accomplishments. Today, she continues to practice traditional tattooing on both locals and tourists visiting Buscalan .

Technique and Style

Whang-Od practices the ancient technique of Batok , which involves using a mixture of charcoal and water as ink and tapping it into the skin using a thorn from a calamansi or pomelo tree. This tattooing technique passed down for generations, holds significant cultural and spiritual importance in Kalinga society.

Each tattoo design created by Whang-Od carries symbolic meanings specific to the mambabatok culture. For example, warriors who had killed enemies were given eagle tattoos, symbolizing their bravery and victories. Whang-Od’s signature tattoo, composed of three dots, represents herself and her two apprentices, symbolizing the continuity of the art form from one generation to the next. Her tattoos often feature designs inspired by nature and basic geometric shapes.

Tattoo Symbolism in Kalinga Tattoos

The traditional Kalinga tattoos created by Whang-Od are rich in symbolic meanings. These symbols reflect the cultural heritage and values of the Kalinga people, making each tattoo design unique and significant. Some of the common symbolic elements found in Kalinga tattoos include:

• Ancient patterns: Geometric patterns such as lines, triangles, and circles are often used to represent various aspects of nature, spirituality, and community.
• Animals: The inclusion of animals in tattoos, such as eagles and centipedes, symbolizes courage, strength, and protection.
• Plants and flowers: Floral motifs like ferns and rice stalks are often incorporated into tattoo designs to represent growth, fertility, and abundance.
• Textiles: Traditional Kalinga textiles, known for their intricate weaving patterns, inspire designs that showcase the community’s artistry and craftsmanship.

Whang-Od’s expertise in capturing these symbolic elements in her tattoos makes her work revered and cherished by those seeking a deeper connection to Kalinga culture.

Recognition and Awards

Whang-Od’s remarkable contributions to Philippine culture and her dedication to the preservation of traditional Kalinga tattooing have garnered her widespread recognition and prestigious awards . In 2018, she was honored with the esteemed Dangal ng Haraya Award by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA) for her outstanding achievements. The award ceremony took place in Tabuk, the capital of her native province of Kalinga . This significant accolade celebrated Whang-Od’s invaluable role in safeguarding and promoting the rich heritage of traditional Philippine crafts.

In addition to the Dangal ng Haraya Award , Whang-Od was also nominated for the distinguished National Living Treasures Award, known as Gawad Manlilikha ng Bayan, in 2017. This prestigious recognition acknowledges individuals who are recognized as living national treasures for their mastery of traditional Philippine craftsmanship. The NCCA is currently processing her nomination, highlighting the profound impact Whang-Od has had on preserving and reviving the invaluable art of traditional Kalinga tattooing.

Cultural Impact and Legacy

Whang-Od’s art and cultural legacy have had a significant impact both within the Philippines and internationally. Her dedication to preserving traditional Kalinga tattooing has helped raise awareness and keep the knowledge, tradition, and culture of Kalinga tattoos alive, especially among younger generations and those outside Filipino culture .

The practice of Kalinga tattoos was almost extinct before Whang-Od’s prominence, and she has played a crucial role in reviving and promoting its significance. Whang-Od’s influence has also extended beyond the Philippines , inspiring other practitioners, such as Lane Wilcken and Natalia Roxas in the United States, to advocate for the ceremonial tradition of batok and revive other traditional tattooing practices in different regions of the Philippines .

The growing interest in indigenous tattoos among Filipinos can be seen as a way to decolonize aesthetics and reconnect with their roots. By embracing and celebrating traditional tattooing, individuals are expressing their indigenous identity and reclaiming their cultural heritage.

Whang-Od’s remarkable skill and passion for preserving the art of traditional Kalinga tattooing have left an indelible mark on the world of tattooing and indigenous self-expression .

The Rebirth of Traditional Tattooing

• The practice of Kalinga tattooing was nearly extinct before Whang-Od’s prominence.
• Whang-Od’s dedication to preserving traditional tattooing has revived the art form.
• Youth and outsiders are now embracing Kalinga tattoos as a form of cultural expression.
• Other artists are inspired to advocate for traditional tattooing in different regions of the Philippines and beyond.

Accessing Buscalan and Getting Tattooed

Visiting Buscalan , the village where Apo Whang-Od resides, can be an exciting and adventurous journey. Located in the mountainous province of Kalinga , Buscalan offers a unique cultural experience and the opportunity to get a traditional Kalinga tattoo. However, reaching Buscalan can be challenging due to its remote location.

There are three common transportation options available to access Buscalan:

• Private Car: Traveling by private car is a popular choice for those who prefer flexibility and independence. However, it is essential to ensure that the car has a full tank of gasoline, especially if coming from Manila or other distant locations.
• Habal-Habal (Motorcycle Taxi): Another option is to take a habal-habal, a motorcycle taxi, from Bontoc, which is approximately 45 kilometers away from Buscalan. This mode of transportation allows visitors to enjoy scenic views during the journey.
• Passenger Van: Travel agencies in nearby towns offer passenger van services to Buscalan. This option is suitable for those who prefer organized transportation and a hassle-free experience. It is advisable to check the availability and schedules beforehand.

Joining a group tour is another popular and convenient option for visiting Buscalan . Companies like Awra Adventures organize guided tours that include transportation and assistance throughout the trip.

Once in Buscalan, visitors must be prepared for a steep uphill hike to reach Whang-Od’s home located at the top of the mountain. The hike can be physically demanding, so it is important to wear comfortable hiking shoes and take breaks if needed.

Overall, accessing Buscalan requires careful planning and consideration of transportation options . Whether traveling by private car, habal-habal, or passenger van, the journey to this remote village is an adventure in itself.

Tattooing Process and Prices

To experience the ancient art of Kalinga tattooing by Whang-Od or her skilled apprentices, visitors must join a waiting list due to Whang-Od’s limited availability caused by her deteriorating health. The tattooing process itself is a meticulous and intricate practice that involves using a sharp twig to tap the ink mixture into the skin. Designs can range from small and simple symbols to more elaborate and detailed patterns, all of which hold significant cultural and personal meanings.

In terms of pricing , tattoos in Buscalan vary based on the size and complexity of the design. Generally, prices can range from 300php to 1,000php, providing accessible options for visitors with varying preferences and budgets. It’s important to note that visitors are typically offered a selection of predetermined designs to choose from, rather than requesting custom designs.

While Whang-Od primarily focuses on inking her signature three-dot design, her apprentices continue the larger tattoo work, ensuring that the art and tradition of Kalinga tattooing are carried forward.

Example Tattoo Pricing:

Accommodations and homestays.

When visiting the enchanting village of Buscalan, accommodation options are limited but offer a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the local community and culture. Residents provide homestays , allowing visitors to experience the authentic warmth and hospitality of the Kalinga people. It is advisable to make arrangements in advance to secure a homestay, as availability may be limited. By staying in a homestay, you can gain insights into the traditions, daily life, and customs of the Kalinga community, creating lasting memories of your journey.

Local guides are often available to assist visitors during their stay in Buscalan, ensuring a safe and memorable experience. Two trusted guides in the area are Ate Dolores and her daughter Leticia. They possess extensive knowledge of the village, its surroundings, and its cultural heritage. Ate Dolores and Leticia can provide valuable insights, accompany visitors on excursions, and help facilitate meaningful cultural exchanges.

Note: Prices are approximate and subject to change depending on the season and specific accommodation provider.

Other Attractions and Activities

While visiting Buscalan, there are opportunities for side trips to nearby attractions. Explore the beauty and cultural significance of the Banaue Rice Terraces , a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its stunning landscapes.

Additionally, depending on the timing of your visit, you may have the chance to experience local festivities and celebrations in Buscalan. Immerse yourself in the vibrant culture by participating in weddings or witnessing traditional dances.

Interacting with the locals and embracing the tranquil lifestyle of Buscalan can be rewarding experiences during your visit. Take the time to explore the surrounding natural beauty and engage in conversations with the friendly residents.

Precautions and Tips for Visitors

When traveling to Buscalan to visit Apo Whang-Od and experience traditional Kalinga tattooing, it’s important to take certain precautions and make necessary preparations for a smooth and enjoyable trip.

Physical Preparedness

The journey to Whang-Od’s home requires a steep hike, so it’s crucial to be physically prepared for the challenging climb. Make sure you are in good health and have the stamina to tackle the uphill trek.

Cash and Facilities

Keep in mind that there are no ATMs or credit card facilities in Buscalan. It’s advisable to bring enough cash to cover expenses during your stay, including the tattoo fee, accommodation, and any other purchases. Having cash on hand will ensure a hassle-free experience.

Food and Snacks

While there are limited dining options available in Buscalan, it’s a good idea to bring your own food and snacks. This way, you’ll have sustenance throughout your stay, especially during the hike and while waiting for your turn to get tattooed.

Essential Items

To make your trip more comfortable, don’t forget to pack essential items such as sunscreen to protect your skin from the sun, insect repellent to ward off bugs, comfortable hiking shoes for the trek, and appropriate clothing for the weather conditions.

By taking these precautions and making the necessary preparations, you’ll be well-equipped for your visit to Buscalan and have a memorable experience with Apo Whang-Od and the tradition of traditional Kalinga tattooing.

Connectivity and Communication

When visiting the village of Buscalan, it is important to note that there is limited connectivity and no network signal available. Visitors should be prepared to disconnect from the digital world and embrace an offline experience during their stay. This lack of connectivity can be seen as an opportunity to fully immerse oneself in the culture and surroundings, allowing for a deeper connection with the local community and the natural beauty of the area.

While there is no network signal in Buscalan, some homestays may have limited access to electricity, which can provide an opportunity to charge electronic devices. However, it is advisable to bring extra power banks or ensure that devices are fully charged before arriving in the village.

Interacting with the locals can be a rewarding experience, even if there may be language barriers. It is important to note that the majority of the community speaks a native language, with a limited understanding of Tagalog or English. Nonetheless, non-verbal communication , gestures, and respectful curiosity can bridge the gap and foster meaningful connections.

Drone Flying and Photography

Visitors interested in capturing the breathtaking natural landscapes and cultural richness of Buscalan through drone photography must be mindful of the community’s rules and regulations. It is important to obtain permission from the local chieftain or Kapitan before flying a drone within the village.

Respecting the community’s guidelines ensures a harmonious and respectful experience for both visitors and locals.

While some visitors have flown drones in Buscalan without facing any issues, it is always best to seek guidance and permission from local authorities. The use of drones within the village may require a fee or other considerations, as determined by the community.

Photography in Buscalan presents an opportunity to capture the beauty and essence of the village. The stunning natural landscapes, coupled with the vibrant community and its rich cultural traditions, make for captivating images. However, it is crucial to exercise respectful photography practices.

Always seek consent when photographing individuals to ensure their privacy and cultural sensitivity are respected.

Drone Permission and Guidelines:

• Obtain permission from the local chieftain or Kapitan before flying a drone in Buscalan.
• Respect the community’s rules and regulations regarding drone usage.
• Be mindful of any fees or considerations associated with flying a drone within the village.

Photography Guidelines:

• Practice respectful photography and seek consent when photographing individuals.
• Capture the natural beauty and cultural richness of Buscalan through your lens.
• Embrace the opportunity to document the vibrant traditions and spirit of the village.

Apo Whang-Od’s legacy as a legendary Filipino tattoo master and her unwavering dedication to preserving traditional Kalinga tattooing has had a profound impact on Philippine culture and beyond. Through her exceptional skill and expertise in the ancient art of Batok, she has played a crucial role in reviving and promoting traditional tattooing practices, fostering a deeper appreciation for indigenous self-expression and the decolonization of aesthetic norms.

Visiting Buscalan and having the opportunity to be tattooed by Apo Whang-Od or her apprentices is a truly unique experience that allows individuals to connect with their Filipino heritage and witness the living legacy of this remarkable artist. It provides an intimate glimpse into the rich tapestry of Filipino culture and the significance of traditional tattooing within Kalinga society.

As Apo Whang-Od enters the later years of her life, her contributions to the preservation of traditional tattooing will continue to inspire and educate future generations. Her artistry and dedication have not only revived interest in traditional Kalinga tattoos but have also sparked a broader cultural appreciation for indigenous practices and the importance of preserving cultural heritage.

Who is Apo Whang-Od?

Apo Whang-Od Oggay, born on February 17, 1917, is a renowned tattoo artist from the village of Buscalan in Kalinga , Philippines . She is the last and oldest practitioner of traditional Kalinga tattooing and is celebrated for her skill and expertise.

What is Apo Whang-Od known for?

Apo Whang-Od is known for being the last and oldest practitioner of traditional Kalinga tattooing. She gained international recognition for her art and has received numerous awards and honors for her contributions to Philippine culture.

What is the traditional hand-tapped tattooing technique called?

The traditional hand-tapped tattooing technique used by Apo Whang-Od is called “batok.” It involves tapping a mixture of charcoal and water into the skin using a thorn from a calamansi or pomelo tree.

What do Whang-Od’s tattoos symbolize?

Whang-Od’s tattoos carry symbolic meanings rooted in Kalinga culture and history. For example, eagle tattoos symbolize bravery and victories, while her signature tattoo of three dots represents herself and her two apprentices.

How can visitors reach Buscalan?

Visitors can reach Buscalan by private car, habal-habal (motorcycle taxi), or passenger van. The village is located in the mountainous province of Kalinga and can be challenging to access.

How can I get a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od?

To get tattooed by Apo Whang-Od or one of her apprentices, visitors must join a waiting list. The prices for tattoos in Buscalan vary depending on size and detail, usually ranging from 300php to 1,000php.

Are there accommodations available in Buscalan?

Yes, Buscalan offers limited accommodations in the form of homestays provided by local residents. It is advisable to make arrangements in advance, as availability may be limited.

What are some side trips and activities in Buscalan?

Visitors to Buscalan can take side trips to attractions like the Banaue Rice Terraces . There may also be opportunities to experience local festivities and traditional dances, depending on the timing of the visit.

What precautions and preparations should visitors take?

Visitors should be physically prepared for the steep hike to Whang-Od’s home and bring cash as there are no ATMs in Buscalan. Essential items to bring include sunscreen, insect repellent, comfortable hiking shoes, and appropriate clothing.

Is there network connectivity in Buscalan?

Buscalan has limited connectivity, and there is no network signal in the village. Visitors should be prepared to be offline during their stay, although some homestays may offer limited access to electricity and charging facilities.

Can visitors fly drones or take photographs in Buscalan?

Visitors interested in flying drones in Buscalan should obtain permission from the local chieftain or kapitan. Photography is allowed, but it is important to practice respectful photography and seek consent when photographing individuals.

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Your Guide to Hiking in the Philippines

Buscalan Village Tinglayan Kalinga Travel Guide (Itinerary + Tips)

Buscalan village is a distant village situated in the municipality of Tinglayan, Kalinga, Philippines. It is home to the Filipina national tattoo artist and living legend named Apo Whang-Od.

Before and after the pandemic both local and international tourists visit the Buscalan village in Kalinga province just to get inked by the last and oldest traditional hand-tap tattoo artist Apo Whang-Od. She is a part of the Kalinga Butbut tribe with rich culture in the lush Cordillera mountains and rice terraces. Apo Whang-Od was born on Feb. 17, 1917 and presently she is 107 years old.

In the past years, due to his old age Apo Whang-Od has successfully immortalized Kalinga Butbut tribe tattoo artistry and tradition by training twenty girls in the process of hand-tap tattooing. Today, these girls are considered the successor of Apo Whang-Od’s brilliant skills in traditional hand-tap tattooing. Moreover, because of Apo Whang-Od, it put Buscalan village and Kalinga province on the map in the past decade bringing numerous number of tourist every year. Despite the fact that Kalinga is one of the less-visited provinces in the Philippines, living legend Apo Whang-Od made it a tourist spot.

“Batok” is a Tagalog word that means hand-tapped tattoo. On the other hand, “mambabatok” is a Tagalog word which means person who practices the art of traditional hand-tap tattooing. Apo Whang-Od signature tattoo composed of three dots that represent herself and her blood-related successors. So if you want to have a traditional tattoo in your body then visiting Buscalan village should be on your top priority.

Name: Buscalan Village Location: Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga Features: panoramic views of the Cordillera mountain range, rice terraces and rivers.

My trip to Buscalan Village

My friend named Missy invited me to join an organized trip going to Buscalan village. The event date is scheduled for January 15. Presently I have never been to the province of Kalinga so the following day I decided to join the trip hosted by Green Outdoor Tribe. I file a vacation leave in the office for two days and pack up my necessary things to bring prior to the event.

It was Monday evening around 9 pm when I arrived at our assembly place in Mcdonald’s Kia Theater Cubao, Quezon City. As we waited for the other group members to arrive, we ordered some food at Mcdo and have dinner. When everybody has already arrived at the assembly place, we go inside the private van and the van heads to our main destination which is Buscalan village.

Past 5:30 am when we arrived at Banaue, Ifugao. It was so cold there and we had a quick picture taking at the famous Banaue Rice Terraces. Past 6:45 am when we arrived at Bontoc, Mountain Province. For this reason, we have our breakfast at a small restaurant named Pines Kitchenette and Inn. Their food and quality service are so affordable at only 100 pesos. All I can say is wow, their breakfast food is super yummy and delicious. It makes me want to visit this restaurant again in the near future. After our breakfast, we roamed around Bontoc municipality and ordered some food for our lunch and dinner.

Afterward, our van left Bontoc and drive towards Buscalan village. The road going to Buscalan village is very scenic and unforgettable that I can’t close my eyes for a second because I want my brain to absorb and remember the stunning view of the Cordillera mountains, the greeny rice terraces and the pristine Chico River. On the other hand, the road trip is dangerous because of the high cliffside part and lots of twists and turns that make other members of the group vomit and become dizzy. The long road is definitely not for the faint-hearted.

Nevertheless, we arrived at the Buscalan village jump-off point around 8 am. We got out of the van and we saw several foreigners from the United States. For this reason, I take pictures of them as a remembrance of how popular this place is among the foreigners and locals. Our group have a short walk and we started taking pictures of the beautiful village and the surrounding mountain.

At 8:30 am our group registered and secured our local guide. After that, we start the trek going to the village. The first part is we walk for a few meters on flat ground and then we descend a 500-meter pathway. Although the descent is not very steep the trail is slippery, so we need to be very cautious. After descending, the trail becomes flat and later becomes a continuous assault on the mountain slope. As a result, our group takes several stops along the trail. We drink our bottled water inside the bag and rest for seven minutes.

Afterward, we continued the hike going to Buscalan village. As I go up I have a short talk with our local guide regarding the trail we walk on. According to the local guide, before the concrete stairs and path walk was made the hike to the village takes a minimum of two hours. So our group is lucky because the hiking experience is a little easier and safer compared to several years ago. In fact, we reached the village after only fifty minutes of hiking.

We take a quick rest at the small house and after that, we go to our homestay which is located on the second floor. Then we leave our bags at the house and we explore the village. A few moments later, I realized that Buscalan village is more than just a tattoo enthusiasts’ destination, it’s an interesting tribal community with rich culture tucked in the lush Cordillera mountains and rice terraces. On the other hand, I noticed that there are no restaurants in the village, only a few local stores and souvenir shops selling Buscalan shirts, coffee, and bag tags.

We continue to roam the village and we spotted Apo Whang-Od’s house. We snapped photos of the house and we saw a small lovely dog named Luna. After that our local guide directed us to Apo Whang-Od and I finally see the legendary tattoo artist who made Kalinga province a tourist destination. Even though she was old already, she looks strong and fair. Some of the group members have a tattoo session with him and some just take pictures of him. After the tattoo session is done, we have our group picture along with national artist Apo Whang-Od.

At 12:20 pm, we returned to our rented homestay and we had our lunch. After our group lunch, we relax for a little time and prepared for our second tattoo session with the grandnieces and successors of legendary Apo Whang-Od. It was 1:45 pm when the second tattoo session started. I noticed that the needle is made of a pomelo thorn and there are a lot of traditional and meaningful designs to choose from. A small and simple design costs 300 pesos.

While waiting for other to finish their tattoo session, we sip a freshly brewed Buscalan coffee which is so mouthwatering. Then Gina (one of the group member) told us this is her first time to get inked and he has low pain tolerance when it comes to the needle. Nevertheless there’s no turning back and she finished the tattoo session in forty-five minutes. Meanwhile other group members have a compass tattoo design in their body.

According to the locals there, it was more than a decade ago when Apo Whang-Od had trained her bloodline successor named Grace Palicas and Elyang Wigan to continue her people’s tattoo artistry and tradition. Apart from this, Apo Whang-Od also trained eighteen young girls to immortalize the Butbut tribe’s craft and tradition. Presently these girls are the emerging tattoo young artists of Buscalan village. We finish our tattoo session with the grandnieces of Apo Whang-Od at 4:20 pm. Finally we got inked in Buscalan village.

Then we prepare and cooked our dinner. It was 6 pm when we have our dinner with unlimited rice and almost fully loaded dishes. After done eating, we have our socializing time. We drink some beer, gin and emperador and we share some thoughts about the tattoo session. One member said that she found this more painful than her dog tattoo. Moreover we talk about our current work and life inside the busy city of Metro Manila. We were laughing and joking while sharing different perspectives and thoughts. Past 10 pm when we go to our room and have a goodnight sleep.

We woke up around 5 am in the morning and we have our breakfast at 6:25 am. We drink the free brewed coffee of Buscalan and after that we roam the village. Our group take lots of pictures of the remote village and we even give donations to the locals there. We wash up around 9:15 am and we check out at 10:10 am. Our group bid farewell to the locals and we started to descend all the way back to the main road where our driver was waiting for us. After twenty-eight minutes of descending we finally reached the main road and the van left Buscalan village at 10:56 am.

The van headed to our side trip destination and we arrived at Sagada, Mountain Province past 12:30 pm. We take our lunch there and we satisfy our meat cravings. Then we explored Sagada famous tourist spot like Blue Soil Hills, Sugong Hanging Coffins, Echo Valley and the Church of Saint Mary the Virgin. After exploring the beautiful town of Sagada, the driver of the van take us to Baguio City where we buy souvenirs and strawberry jam. Around 5:25 pm when our van left Baguio City and I saw one of the most beautiful sunsets of my life.

Three hours later we had our dinner at Leeza’s Restaurant in Sison, Pangasinan. It was 12:45 am when we arrived in Metro Manila. We bid goodbye to each other and I came home past 2 am. Thanks be to God for guiding us and keeping us safe all the way. It was an unfogerttable experience to meet and greet the living legend Apo Whang-Od. Also another bucket list was unlocked. I will truly miss the scenery, the cold weather and the brewed coffee of Buscalan village. All in all the long trip is all worth it.

Sample 2-Day itinerary to Buscalan Village (by private vehicle)

Day 0 8:30PM – Meetup at Mcdonald’s Kia Theater Cubao, Quezon City 9:30PM – ETD going to Buscalan village

Day 1 5:30AM – ETA Banaue Rice Terraces 6:30AM – ETA Bontoc, Mountain Province, breakfast and buy food 7AM – Departure going to Buscalan village 8AM – Arrival at Buscalan, register, secure guide and start trek 9AM – Buscalan Village, go to homestay and relax 10:30AM – Meet and greet Apo Whang-Od, picture taking and tattoo session 1PM – Lunch 2PM – Explore the village and another tattoo session 5:30PM – Dinner and socials 9PM – Lights off

Day 2 5AM – Wake up call, breakfast 6:15AM – See the sunrise, photo-ops 8AM – Tidy-up and pack up 9AM – Start descent 10AM – Back at the jump-off point 10:30AM – Departure going to the sidetrip (Sagada) 12PM – Lunch time 1PM – Open time, explore Sagada 5PM – Arrival at Baguio City, buy souvenirs 5:45PM – ETD to Manila

Disclaimer: the above itinerary may change depending on the situation like weather conditions and participants pacing.

Things to bring on your visit to Buscalan Village:

Water and tumbler Snacks First Aid Kit Pocket money Extra set of clothes Jacket Alcohol Hiking sandals Valid ID and vaccination card Camera and powerbank Personal medications Scarf, cap, umbrella Toiletries like bath soap, toothbrush and small towel Plastic bag for your trash Waterproofing for gadgets if rainy season Sunblock (optional)

How to Go to Buscalan Village

By commuting from Metro Manila

• From Victory Liner bus station in Quezon City, ride a deluxe bus bound to Tabuk, Kalinga. The travel time is almost eleven hours.
• Then from Tabuk city ride a jeep going to the municipality of Tinglayan and drop off at the junction near the Buscalan village jump-off point.
• From Coda Lines Terminal in Cubao, Quezon City, ride a bus going to the municipality of Bontoc in Mountain Province. 
• From Bontoc municipality, ride a jeep bound to Buscalan village jump-off point or tourism site. 

Note: The daily trip schedule of the Coda Line bus bound to Bontoc municipality is 9 pm.

By commuting from Bontoc, Mountain Province

• From Bontoc, there’s a tricycle terminal near Cable Cafe & Restaurant in Poblacion, Bontoc. One of the tricycle drivers is Jayson. You can contact Jayson from this cellphone number 0930-307-6300. The tricycle fare range from 1500 to 2000 pesos and it’s good for a day tour roundtrip from Bontoc to Kalinga and vice versa. If overnight the tricycle fare range from 2500-3000 pesos. 
• Then from Buscalan turning point trek for thirty minutes or more going to the house of Apo Whang Od.
• Ride a jeepney from Bontoc going to Bugnay. The travel time is one hour and the jeepney fare is around 200 pesos. But please take note that you need to wait for a long time maybe one hour or more to make the jeepney full and started going to Bugnay. (but it all depends)
• From Bugnay ride a motorcycle going to Buscalan. The motorcycle fare is 150 pesos.

By commuting from Baguio City

• From Baguio City, ride a bus going to Bontoc, Mountain Province.
• Then from Bontoc municipality ride a jeep or bus going to Tabuk, Kalinga and drop off at the village of Bugnay. The approximate travel time is one hour and thirty minutes.
• From Bugnay village, ride a jeep or motorcycle going to the municipality of Tinglayan and alight at Buscalan Village jump-off point.

Reminders and Tips:

• I highly advised you to join an organized trip for only 3500 pesos or less per head going to Buscalan village for a hassle-free trip and accommodation. The inclusion in the Buscalan organized tour for 2 days and 1 night is roundtrip private van transportation (Manila-Kalinga-Manila), homestay, two hosted meal (lunch and dinner), registration fee, tourism fee, local guide fee, toll fee, drivers fee, parking fee, unlimited brewed coffee, and bag tag. Meanwhile, the exclusion is all things not mentioned above like tattoo sessions, personal food and restroom fees.
• At the jump-off point or the tourism office, you will be asked to fill out an individual registration form and have to show your vaccination card and a valid ID. Also, you are required to register your group and your time of arrival so you can get your local guide and appointment slot with Apo Whang-Od. Please take note that all tourists are required to get a local guide per group and your guide will be the one to book your slot with Apo Whang-Od. The tattooing schedule is on a first-come-first-served basis.
• Make sure to pack light only and get yourself a porter for hire if you have so many things to bring up in Buscalan village. 
• Standard health protocols should be properly observed at all times.
• It is important to follow the Leave No Trace (LNT) principles at all times to make sure the place you’re visiting is clean and good.
• Bring trekking sandals that are thick and have a strap. Personally, I prefer the Sandugo brand because it is durable.
• Cellphone signal in Buscalan village is so weak and there is no Automated teller machine (ATM) so bring sufficient cash and pocket money before the trip. Also, take note that the nearest ATM machines can be found in Bontoc municipality.
• For the Buscalan tattoo homestay kindly call or message Gaspar B. Laguinday (Gaspar Laguinday homestay). Mobile number is 09994805012 and 09067368404. 
• The price for a homestay are ranging from 200 to 400 pesos per night and per head. Inclusive of unlimited rice and Kalinga brewed coffee.
• Your host or tour organizer can cook food for an additional fee. However, if you’re on a tight budget better bring your own food and cook there.
• There is no guarantee that you’ll meet Apo Whang-Od on your first day since your group turn will depend on your timestamp order or time of arrival at the tourism office in Buscalan village.
• The price of each tattoo varies depending on the size, details, and design. The price ranges from 300 pesos up to 2000 pesos. The sun and moon design is 500 pesos and above depending on the size of the tattoo.
• You can only get an Apo Whang-Od’s signature tattoo after getting a traditional tattoo from any of their artists. However, there are some days when Apo Whang-Od is down for some tattoo session.
• Please remember that aside from Apo Whang-Od, Grace and Elyang her successors are allowed to ink the meaningful three-dot signature tattoo.
• As of today, Buscalan village is open for all local and foreign visitors.
• Last but not least, I highly advise you to visit Buscalan village on weekdays because it’s not crowded there. Our group went there on weekdays (Tuesday and Wednesday) so we had a greater opportunity to meet and greet Apo Whang-Od (the last traditional tattoo artist of Kalinga).

Notable fees in Buscalan Village:

• The guide fee is 1000 pesos per day for a group of 5 people.
• The registration fee is 75 pesos per person.
• Photo session with Apo Whang-Od is 50 pesos per head.
• Pambatok stick made of bamboo and citrus thorn is 100 pesos per piece.
• The support stick is 20 pesos per piece.
• The signature tattoo of Apo Whang-Od (three dots) is 100 pesos.
• The dog tattoo is 300 pesos.
• Ref magnet is 50 pesos each.

I took the one less traveled by and that has made all the difference. It was not the place nor the view that made it so special, it was the people we met along the way. Overall, I hope this Buscalan village travel guide has been helpful to you and inspired you to try visiting the village and meet Apo Whang-Od. Moreover, don’t forget to share this with your friends, groups and colleagues if ever you plan travelling to Buscalan village in Kalinga. God bless you in all your future travels. Thanks for reading.

jervisergino

Hi. I’m Jervis, a nature lover. This blog is dedicated to helping people know more about the best hiking and tourist destinations in the Philippines.

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Meet Apo Whang-Od, the Last Kalinga Tattoo Artist in the Philippines

If there is one person who could best represent the rich culture of Kalinga, a province located in the far north of the Philippines, it is none other than Whang Od, the oldest Filipino tribal tattoo artist. Some even say she put Kalinga on the Philippine map of must-visit places for local and foreigners alike. In fact, many people brave the cold weather and the 10-hour trip to the mountains just to get inked by her.

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Whang-od Oggay is known as the last mambabatok (Kalinga tattooist) from the tribe of Butbut in Buscalan, Kalinga. She has been tattooing for the past 80 years — including head hunters of the indigenous tribe, at the beginning of her long career.

These head hunters were the warriors of their tribe, who protect their villages, to the extent of killing their enemies. For them, it is a symbol of bravery and courage. She also inked the skin of women from the tribe, the tattoos are considered as a sign of beauty and elegance.

Now, after 80 years of tattooing, Whang-od is inking foreign and Filipino visitors who visit her.

Whang-Od’s tattoo

Whang-od’s tribal tattoo ink is made up of charcoal and water. Once mixed, it is tapped into the skin using a thorn from a citrus tree — either from calamansi or pomelo. The thorn is then attached to a 12-inch long bamboo stick and from there, Whang-od will start tapping it deep into your skin. She has sample designs so that you can choose which design you’d like. The locals or your tour guide will then gently relay your request to Whang-od and from there she will start tapping your desired design.

Getting inked by Whang-od takes some courage as the session can be painful, depending on your body’s tolerance. As a sign of courtesy, visitors are also encouraged to bring in some offerings for your host like food, medicine, and matches which are essential for their day to day existence.

Passing the tradition to her bloodline

Whang-od never married. She lost her significant other during the Japanese occupation and since then, Whang-od has stayed single. Without a child of her own to teach, she is training her grandniece Grace Palicas to continue the tribe’s tattoo tradition. She believes that she can only pass it to her bloodline because if someone outside the tribe were to continue the tradition, the tattoo would be infected.

For her part, Grace is more than willing to continue what the tribe has started. She has even had the opportunity to participate in different tattoo festivals around the country.

Whang-od is now in her mid-90s and from the looks of it, she is not stopping anytime soon. And there seems to be no shortage of people who want to be inked by her and believe in her art.

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Meet the 106-Year-Old Woman Keeping an Ancient Filipino Tattooing Tradition Alive

By Audrey Carpio

Photography by Artu Nepomuceno

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The remote village of Buscalan, home of the famed last mambabatok of her generation, has never been this accessible. Sure, you still need to endure the 12 hour-body-numbing drive from Manila with its city gridlock to the winding mountain roads of the Cordilleras , swerving around landslide debris and oncoming trucks in dangerously foggy conditions. But the dirt path from the turnoff in the municipality of Tinglayan, Kalinga—clearly marked by a sign that proclaims Welcome! Whang-Od Buscalan Tattoo Village —is now paved over, reducing hike time by over an hour. What’s left is a strenuous climb through the rice terraces that a reasonably fit person can conquer in 40 minutes.  

Modern conveniences haven’t completely transformed Buscalan , yet. There is still no cell signal, and only a scant number of residents have WiFi. But steel has long replaced the traditional cogon roofing of the homes, and wooden huts have made way for crowded, concrete structures.

The woman who has been around to witness all these changes is also the one largely responsible for them. Apo Whang-Od, the sprightly centenarian also known as Maria Oggay, has been hand-tapping tattoos on skin since she was a teenager. It was only within the last 15 years or so that her clientele—and her renown–exploded beyond the Cordillera region, with thousands of visitors coming from all over the world, all seeking the exquisite pain of the soot-stained thorn.

 According to lore and to interviews conducted by tattoo anthropologist Dr. Lars Krutak, Whang- Od was 16 when she began her career as a tattooist under her father’s mentorship. The first and only female mambabatok of her time, Whang-Od would travel to far and neighboring villages, summoned by host communities to imprint the sacred symbols of their ancestors on individuals who have crossed or about to cross a threshold in their lives. 

For men, this meant being minted as a headhunting warrior. A bikking , a chest tattoo with patterns that crawled up the shoulders and down the arms, could take days to finish and would cost a large pig or several kilos of rice. Women were tattooed for different reasons, primarily for fertility and beautification. The tattooed elder women of Kalinga often say that when they die, they can’t take their beads and gold with them to the afterlife . They only have the markings on their body. 

Whang-Od has tattooed more women than warriors, as headhunting was banned by the Americans in the early 1900s. The image of the Kalingas as bloodthirsty savages was perpetrated by the colonial ethnologic photographer Dean Worcester, who in 1912 published photographs of Cordilleran tribes in National Geographic , describing them as both exotic and terrifying in an attempt to justify American control of Northern Luzon, or what he called “No Man’s Land.” But reality was more nuanced. Headhunting, as practiced, was a part of ritual warfare that had spiritual implications. Cultural tattoo practitioner Lane Wilcken explains in the book Filipino Tattoos: Ancient to Modern (2010) that headhunting functioned to restore the balance and justice between communities in conflict. The marking of the warrior was thus a ceremonial and sacred activity, done in several stages over almost two years.

In those days, unmarked women were considered imperfect, undesirable. One of the most enduring ullalim , a form of epic poetry that is chanted by the village bard, is the story of the warrior hero Banna who falls in love with the beautiful Lagunnawa. In the pre-colonial tale, their tattooed bodies are celebrated as badges of honor, wealth, beauty, and bravery. 

When the American Catholic missionaries came and built schools in Kalinga, village girls were made to cover their arms with long sleeves. Being tattooed became a point of shame when women ventured to the city, and eventually fewer girls from the succeeding generation continued the tradition as Western concepts of beauty and respectability began to permeate the culture. 

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“Traditional tattooing is seen as archaic and painful by the younger generations of the tribe,” wrote Kalinga elder and former NCIP official Natividad Sugguiyao in the intro to photographer Jake Verzosa’s The Last Tattooed Women of Kalinga (2014). “Though the practice has completely ceased, it remains vital that it should never be forgotten.”

The practice may have died out among the Kalinga, but outside forces have again exerted their influence, this time in helping revive the practice of batok and transforming it into something of a hybrid artform. In 2007, Dr. Lars Krutak spent two weeks in Buscalan filming the Philippine segment of his Discovery Channel series Tattoo Hunter . There he met Whang-Od, who was nearly 90 at the time and still working the rice fields every day. 

Mambabatok can only pass on their craft within their bloodlines, and Whang-Od never had any children of her own. Grace Palicas, her 10-year-old grandniece, was chosen to be her apprentice, though initially a reluctant one. 

“I was the first child to learn how to tattoo. I just observed what she did,” Grace, now 26, tells us. “When I left for college in 2015, Elyang was next to learn so that she could help Apo when so many tourists were coming.” 

We are at Grace’s house, where she and her 23-year-old cousin Elyang Wigan have been tapping ink into the limbs of a handful of visitors who arrived in Buscalan that morning. Afterward, the newly inked will walk a few houses down to where Whang-Od holds court to get her signature three-dot signoff, the only tattoo she does nowadays. Getting the dots, which takes all of five minutes to complete, has been described as more painful than the larger pieces done by the lighter hands of Whang-Od’s protégés. But what is pain, or the risk of a small infection, when you’ve made it all the way here to see the living legend in the flesh?

We find Whang-Od by her house, sitting on a low footstool on the dirt floor, preparing her tools to dot a client on his arm. She is dressed in her usual “accidental hipster grandma” style, wearing a puffy bomber over track pants and a paisley bandana around her forehead. The outer walls of Oggay’s home are covered with tour group-sponsored tarps of her likeness, a reminder of the transactional, touristy nature of this exchange. We are, after all, neither warriors nor Butbut maidens ready for marriage. It is an honor for outsiders like us to be given these sacred markings, one we do not deserve.

When she finishes with the client, it is the Vogue team’s turn to get tatted. First is Sela Gonzales, the photographer’s assistant and the only one of us who could communicate with her in Ilocano (Whang-Od doesn’t speak Tagalog or English). An aide procures an unused gisi , a bamboo stick with a thorn attached to one end, while Whang-Od traces the pattern on Sela’s arm using a length of grass dipped in the soot and charcoal mixture. Holding the inked gisi in her left hand, she uses a larger stick to whack it with her right hand, driving it over a hundred times per minute into the flesh until the three dots are filled and oozing with blood and ink. She dabs at them with a wet wipe before deciding to go over the freshly wounded spots again for good measure. Aray .

“When visitors come from far away,” Whang Od says in the Butbut language, “I will give them the tatak Buscalan, tatak Kalinga for as long as my eyes can see.”

In the fall of 2022, Grace spent several weeks in France, where her husband is from, and where she was invited as a guest tattoo artist at a few different tattoo studios. Grace is the first Buscalan native to bring batok to the West. Her clean, symmetrical black lines are impressive; patterns of scorpions, centipedes, snakes, and rice bundles come together to form a large tapestry running down the length of an arm or leg. One of her clients, a hand poke tattoo artist from Brooklyn, commented on Instagram that it was truly her most meaningful tattoo experience. A Philippine indigenous practice that was on the verge of being lost to history is being inscribed on new skin. The stories of the Butbut people and their beliefs will continue to be passed along through the vector of a thorn, plucked from a tree grown in Kalinga soil.

Traditionally, ceremonial rituals accompanied the tattooing, and they ranged from the chanting of an ullalim or the sacrificing of a chicken. These days, the performance of rituals is altogether left out of the tattoo session, although Grace says that they can be done if requested, especially upon the completion of a large, multi-day tattoo. For non-natives, the tattoos are pretty much divorced from their ancestral context, chosen from the same limited menu of designs offered to everyone. In the end, we assign our own meanings to them, reading the symbols through the lens of an individual and not the community.

I was relatively uninformed when I got my first Kalinga tattoo a year before. If you asked one of the mambabatok there what a particular design meant, you’d get a vague answer that was some combination of “guidance, strength, and protection.” I had chosen the crab/traveler partly because I associated it with my family and partly because I had read somewhere that it was one of the original Kalinga patterns, compared to the sun/moon motifs, which were new-generation designs by Whang-Od and Grace. Later I learned that the crab design with its pincers/fishhooks is associated with the Filipino deity Lumauig. A few scholars have noted that Lumauig bears a striking resemblance to the Polynesian trickster Maui. As you probably know, Maui possesses a magical fishhook. I regarded my tattoo with a new appreciation of the deep intertextual history behind its simple lines.

Emily Oggay, a relative of Apo, tattooed the crab on my thigh. It was virtually painless. She joked that her taps are like tik-tik-tik while Apo’s taps are TOK-TOK-TOK , miming a heavy hammer. Like Grace and Elyang, she is part of the new generation of mambabatok —and there are surprisingly many, mostly girls and women. I counted at least 18 Gen Zers who had picked up the craft through observation and practicing on themselves and each other. Many of them started in 2018 after seeing the tourism boom and the long lines of travelers waiting all day for a session with Apo. At its peak, Buscalan hosted over 400 visitors a day. Tour groups by the van loads were hauled to the mountain, some guaranteeing a meeting with Whang-Od, like she was a whale shark to be sighted. Homestays were crammed to the brim, with strangers sleeping shoulder-to-shoulder on the floor. Even if Whang-Od were to perform the full ritual for all her visitors, there wouldn’t be enough chickens to sacrifice.  

“Before, farming was our livelihood. We would only eat kamote . You can see how tourism changed Buscalan when visitors started coming,” Grace says, translating what Apo was saying. She describes how they started to eat a variety of food, and how locals took new jobs as tour guides and homestay operators. “We also learned how to speak English and Tagalog because of the visitors.” 

This all came to a grinding halt during the pandemic when Buscalan was completely closed to visitors for two years. Villagers had no choice but to return to farming. Grace adds that “it was also good because we were able to rest a bit.” But when I first went up in July 2021, Whang-Od was not at home resting. She had absconded to the village in the neighboring mountain where restrictions were laxer. She wanted to keep tattooing. 

I had found Whang-Od, gangster as ever, hanging out by a giant golden statue of herself, under whose outstretched arms and bare breasts I received my three dots.

Jake Verzosa recalls the time he first got a tattoo from Whang-Od. The year was 2009, and he paid for his markings in brown sugar and posporo . “When Whang-Od started getting tired after tattooing for a few hours, Grace would take over,” he tells me. Indeed, the cuff on his arm starts off a bit crooked. Grace would have been 13 at the time, but “her lines were very clean.” Growing up in Tuguegarao, Jake would see the tattooed elders near his school and would often hear stories about Buscalan. It was not an easy trek to make, and at the time it was mostly foreigners who happened upon the village. Jake would spend three years completing his portrait series of the women elders of Kalinga. His iconic black-and white image of Whang-Od, which has been exhibited all over the world, can be found in various permutations all over Buscalan.

Whang-Od’s face is also plastered on all kinds of merch from t-shirts to coffee packaging, and that’s just in Buscalan. I don’t know if it’s because of her guilelessness and genuine desire to share her culture, but she has been at the center of several incidents that have been called out as exploitative, with a few requiring the National Commission on Indigenous Peoples to step in as the gatekeepers of indigenous intellectual property rights. 

At a webinar that discussed these issues, social anthropologist Dr. Analyn Salvador-Amores noted that what was once a place-based ritual has been transformed into a commercialized practice. “Culture is an increasingly prized commodity, aggressively appropriated by other entities,” she said. “Instead of asking who owns culture, we should ask how we can promote respectful treatment of native culture and indigenous forms of self-expression within mass societies.”

Whang-Od, who turned 106 in February, is the oldest living mambabatok but certainly not the last. The three dots representing Apo, Grace, and Elyang are also ellipses, signifying an open-endedness and a continuation that extends beyond its origins. In the US, practitioners like Lane Wilcken and Natalia Roxas advocate for the ceremonial tradition of batok , and they have helped and healed many Filipino Americans seeking to connect with their heritage by wearing the symbols of their ancestors. Elsewhere in the Philippines, Bukidnon tattoo practitioner Piper Abas is reviving the art of traditional Visayan and Mindanao tattooing, or patik . More Filipinos choosing to get an indigenous tattoo, one that carries with it a long history, can be seen as a step toward decolonizing aesthetics, reclaiming our bodies, and reconnecting with our roots, our selves. 

Culture survives through representation, not appropriation. The crab on my leg, like the freshly pricked trifecta of tattoos by the OG and her two main disciples on photographer Artu Nepomuceno’s arm, may not be the inheritance from our own blood ancestors. But we are now indelibly inked and linked to the last Philippine tribe that has managed to hold on to its tattooing heritage amid colonial erasure in the rest of the archipelago. And we carry these markings with us forward into the world, allowing ourselves the gifts of guidance, strength, and protection that we didn’t realize we needed.

Producer: Anz Hizon. Production Assistants: Jojo Abrigo, Marga Magalong, Renee De Guzman. Photographer’s Assistants: Aaron Carlos, Choi Narciso, Sela Gonzales. Special thanks to the National Commission on Indigenous Peoples.

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Memento Mori

Buscalan: A Village that Tattoos Souls

Peter Pan was right. Growing up is a trap. I mean. Who wants to live in a world with an endless cycle of workload, bills, stress, taxes, and responsibilities? Who wants to be in a world full of rude people? And why can’t we live a peaceful and simple life like the Butbut Tribe in Buscalan, Kalinga?

Here’s the thing. 

We are a generation of constantly dissatisfied, overstressed, and overworked people. 

Despite our drive, can-do attitude, and modern technology, we are overwhelmed, anxious, and exhausted.

We live in an era where people kill themselves with productivity. 

We spend hours in long commutes and drives to work. 

And we work feverishly even on weekends and aim to reach a bar that keeps rising higher. 

But guess what?

There’s a silver lining amid life’s chaos. 

The reality is adult life can still be a blur of excitement and joy.

Just spend some time sprinkling it into your life.

Don’t blindly follow the society.

Don’t let pain and trauma turn you into a bitter adult.

And more importantly, don’t lose your sense of wonder and curiosity.

That’s why I joined a Mount Amuyao and Buscalan tour with several friends from Cebu. 

From getting inked to postcard-worthy sunrises, it was a journey filled with fun and blissful moments. 

And it was a rare opportunity to discover the Butbut tribe and see the iconic Maria Oggay.

My Buscalan, Kalinga experience 

05:17 pm: the landslide .

Nothing beats the feeling of conquering a challenging and steep mountain. 

Fresh from a backbreaking hike in Mount Amuyao , we were all smiles as we made our way to the next stop of our Luzon adventure. 

With a positive mood, the van was filled with stories of the mountain’s unlimited stairs. 

Soon, almost everyone dozed off. 

It was a rainy and chilly afternoon, and everything seemed perfect and on time. 

That was until we bumped into a hiccup. 

After a few twists and turns, our van stopped and waited for the vehicle in front of us to move. 

Nothing happened for about 10 minutes.  

Everyone woke up and noticed the idleness. 

We didn’t get any information on what was causing the traffic. 

But I had a hunch what happened. 

A landslide. 

Outside the window, I saw soil movement caused by the persistent rain. 

Sir Greg and Sir Bojec, our organizer, ultimately stepped outside to investigate the cause of the traffic. 

And I was right. 

It was a landslide. 

Surprisingly, though, it didn’t affect our mood. 

Instead of complaining, we cracked jokes, ate our trail food, and shared stories of our hikes in the highest mountains in the Philippines. 

And somehow, this reminded me of a classic lesson in Stoicism : don’t focus on things you can’t control . 

There’s no point in wasting energy and time on things we can’t control. 

Can we control the weather to prevent landslides? 

Can we stop the rain in the snap of a finger?

Heck no. 

But we can control how we respond to these things. 

And how do you respond to situations like this? 

Do you panic, worry or complain like a bitch or a Karen? 

Or do you chill and make the most out of this situation? 

Around 5:50 PM: The drive to Buscalan 

Thankfully, the local government quickly fixed the problem. 

We then resumed our trip to Buscalan, following the winding roads of north-central Luzon. 

And the drive isn’t for the faint of heart. 

Along the way, we saw masses of debris, mud, and rock from recent landslides. 

There were also steep drops, flooded streets, and even cows blocking our way. 

And did I mention there were no streetlights? 

At times like this, I always remember the voices of people saying what I’m doing is risky. 

I get it. 

There are a hundred ways to die in the mountains and in the unchartered territories. 

Heat exhaustion, falling from cliffs, hypothermia, dehydration, and landslides are some of the deadly killers in the mountains.  

But you know what’s more dangerous than hiking and travel? 

Sitting at your working desk for over 8 hours a day.

Sure, long hours working in front of the computer mean quicker promotions and more money. 

But at what cost? 

The thing is, lack of sleep and stress are silent killers. 

They sneak up on you and lead to serious health problems. 

They cause heart attacks, high blood pressure, strokes, and malnourishment. 

And how can I forget the effects of overworking on mental health?

Ah, mental health. 

The reason I joined this Mount Amuyao and Buscalan tour. 

Overworking can lead to burnout. 

And burnout can lead to a variety of problems, including emotional exhaustion, depression, and anxiety. 

So, a word of advice to anyone who’s reading this, spend more time pursuing your passion and less time in front of your computer. 

I’d rather spend my hard-earned money on doing risky things I love than on hospital bills. 

And I’ll never let my well-being take a backseat to any job. 

Around 8:30 PM: The climb to Buscalan Village 

After hours of crossing streams and huge debris, we finally arrived at the drop-off point in Buscalan, Kalinga. 

It was late, and the rain was getting stronger. 

Moreover, we had to take another steep flight of stairs to reach our homestay in Buscalan. 

Yes, stairs. 

Apparently, the Universe wanted us to take on more stairways, following the endless stairs in Mount Amuyao. 

Still, we were up to the challenge. 

Equipped with headlamps, we followed our Buscalan tour guide, who was about to lead us to our homestay. 

We hiked downhill on a rocky and mildly slippery trail. 

Afterward, we crossed a footbridge and began our climb to Buscalan. 

Then, the uphill hike began. 

Stairs, stairs, and more stairs. 

We did cross another footbridge. 

But after that? 

More stairs. 

We did take breaks to catch our breath and relax our legs. 

Soon after, we arrived at an empty house where we took a break. 

And breaks are crucial in everyone’s life. 

At work, we all need a breather from a to-do list that doesn’t get shorter. 

For adults with jobs, breaks are a form of self-care and self-love. 

You might think you’re strong and invincible, but burnout hits everyone. 

And it’s not pretty. 

It affects your performance and makes you resent a job you once loved. 

Taking time to recharge isn’t really slacking. 

It’s smart and the best way to be effective. 

So, take a vacation, give yourself a chance to breathe, and don’t feel guilty about it. 

Eventually, we arrived at our homestay, where we had a hearty dinner and took showers. 

11:10 PM: Homestay in Buscalan 

Waves of laughter echoed in the hallway of our homestay in Buscalan. 

Even though the trip and hikes were tiring, we still had enough energy for some socials. 

And one of the things I love about traveling and hiking is the face-to-face human interactions. 

No Zoom and Skype calls. 

No group messages. 

Just the pure and old-fashioned way of connecting with others. 

In my book, real human interactions are a treasure trove of insights and wisdom. 

It’s like free therapy and lessons about the outdoors but without the PowerPoint slides and props. 

And the best part of it is that you’ll feel lighter after these social interactions. 

As science suggests, social interactions spark the release of endorphins – our body’s natural mood lifters. 

It’s like having an injection of happiness without prescriptions. 

But there’s a curfew in Buscalan, meaning we had to cut our socials short and head to bed. 

Nevertheless, our short interaction gave us a dose of happiness. 

05:30 AM: The Buscalan sunrise 

Sunrises are a perk of traveling and hiking. 

While it’s free and nearly present every day, some of us don’t have the time, energy, and opportunity to witness its beauty at home.  

So, I spent minutes on the balcony, being mindful and soaking in the moment while admiring the sun rising. 

The quiet and calm setting of Buscalan and the therapeutic sunrise made it the perfect time for mindfulness. 

And the serene atmosphere was also stress relieving. 

It was like Neverland.

It was a dose of tranquility that set a positive tone for the rest of the day. 

Soon, the rest of the team went to the balcony to chat and enjoy the views of the rising sun. 

06:39 AM: Exploring the rice terraces

Life isn’t living. 

It’s surviving. 

It’s paying the bills and following a mundane daily routine. 

That’s how our society has programmed us. 

And the world is hell-bent on imposing this mindset. 

In a way, traveling to places like Buscalan is a rebellion against this idea. 

In a world obsessed with efficiency and productivity, taking some time off to travel is a rebellious act. 

You’re declaring that your happiness and personal growth are not afterthoughts. 

They are priorities. 

Taking some off screams that your happiness and well-being are more important than any meeting and deadline. 

You’re reclaiming time, and that’s a bold move and a powerful statement. 

And like any rebels to the societal norms, we decided to experience life and create memories on our time off. 

We roamed around the rice paddies, savoring the views, lush scenery, and majestic creations. 

As a bonus, we met a couple of friendly dogs whom we called Shopee and Lazada. 

08:05 PM: Homestay 

Life is short, the world is wide, and the clock is ticking. 

And I don’t want my legacy to be a person who never takes a break and never experiences something new. 

There’s a big world out there begging to be explored. 

There are places to see, dishes to try, and experiences that can give me lifetime memories. 

I won’t let my work and responsibilities make me miss out on life’s adventures. 

And I won’t let them stop me from seeing one of the country’s legends: Maria Oggay, also known as Apo Whang Od. 

Not only is she a centenarian, but she’s also a badass, a national treasure, and a living legend. 

Nicknamed the last living mambabatok, this 106-year-old tattoo artist is responsible for the tourist boom in the Cordillera region. 

Thousands of foreigners and Filipinos would take the long and bumpy 13-hour drive from Manila to see her at work. 

For those who visit Buscalan, Whang Od will always be their priority. 

Even better, she ensured the 1,000-year-old batok practice will go on by inspiring and training her descendants. 

Even if I don’t get inked by this legend, a glimpse of her would be enough and the icing on the cake. 

After all, I came to Mount Amuyao and Buscalan to find the antidote to my non-stop grind. 

08:29 AM: Time to meet the legendary Apo Whang Od

As we followed our Buscalan tour guide, Marcial, I noticed something off about the village. 

Although remote, it doesn’t have the feel of a traditional tribal village. 

I have seen tribe villages in Visayas, Mindanao, and Thailand. 

And Buscalan doesn’t resemble one. 

With no wooden huts and cogon roofs, it’s a maze of concrete, crowded structures.  

Except for the rice terraces and surrounding towering mountains, it looks a bit like some of the mazed sitios in Cebu City. 

Plus, some houses in Buscalan, Kalinga have Wi-Fi access and other modern conveniences. 

In fact, there are houses equipped with Starlink in Buscalan. 

I’m not saying it in a negative light. 

At least, they’re progressing and providing services to travelers seeking modern amenities and creature comforts. 

And besides, they still speak Butbut, and they have retained their traditions and practices. 

A few minutes later, we arrived at the spot where Apo Whang Od does her rituals. 

Unfortunately, the lines were long, and many people were impatient. 

A local Buscalan tour guide suggested that we might have a chance to get inked by Apo Whang Od if we wait in line until 5 PM. 

Well, that was a bummer. 

We had to get back to the drop-off point by 12 NN. 

We had flights early the next day, and waiting in line for hours for a puncher’s chance was not a smart decision. 

There was only one way for us to get up close to the iconic Apo Whang Od. 

And that was a selfie or a group picture. 

That’s fine, I say to myself. 

08:56 PM: Grace and Elyang 

With a long queue of impatient tourists, it was impossible for us to get Apo Whang Od’s signature 3-dot tattoo.

But there were two alternatives presented to us by Marcial: Grace and Elyang, Apo’s proteges and descendants. 

Besides Apo Whang Od, they were the only artists in the Butbut tribe allowed to do the signature tattoo. 

Speaking of these three dots, this tattoo represents Grace, Elyang, and Apo. 

Thanks to Marcial’s charm and experience, some of us finally got that signature tattoo. 

09:30 AM: A snap with Apo Whang Od 

A fat paycheck is, no doubt, nice. 

But what’s the point if you’re too busy or stressed to enjoy it?

Money can buy luxuries and comfort, but it can never buy time. 

So, invest in experiences and not just in material wealth. 

Thus far, my experiences on this journey have been fascinating and colorful. 

First, I saw the Banaue Rice Terraces – a National Cultural Treasure in the Philippines and the 8th Natural Wonder of the World (as most Pinoys say). 

Then, I climbed one of the tallest mountains in the Philippines. 

In Buscalan, I had my first ink and was about to meet another Filipino icon.

The line for the photo-op with Apo Whang Od was long and crowded. 

We were positioned to be one of the first groups to have pictures with Apo. 

But the other tourists were rowdy, hot-tempered, and cutting corners. 

It was pandemonium. 

The tour operators were screaming, instructing the tourists to move faster. 

And the tourists kept pushing, just to get a picture of Apo. 

We were also in a precarious position. 

Kirk and I were standing on the edge of a retaining wall. 

If we moved and forced our way, the people behind might push us. 

A pic with Apo Whang Od would be great and a rare experience. 

But would I risk my life for it? 

Hell no.  

Moments later, we finally had the chance to take a picture with Apo Whang Od. 

There was, however, one issue. 

Only group pictures were allowed. 

Was it a problem? 

Not, as far as I was concerned. 

So, we rushed and got a picture of the most notable person in the Cordilleras. 

I looked closely at Apo Whang Od and noticed something about her. 

She looked tired. 

At 106, she’s still sprightly and can move like a young woman. 

It amazes me to see a woman that old can work and move like her. 

But her eyes, the portal to her soul, don’t lie. 

She’s tired. 

Maybe Apo Whang Od and I aren’t so different after all. 

Perhaps she’s tired of watching the greedy and bossy tour operators running the tribe. 

Or maybe she’s tired of people exploiting her talents and image. 

I don’t know. 

These are all presumptions based on my observations. 

Who am I to judge?

I’m not a journalist or an investigator. 

But remember the news and rumors about her getting exploited by trade fair organizers and influencers?

I’m starting to believe they are true. 

Still, it was a pleasant experience for me to see her up close. 

It was a joy to see her work. 

It was surreal to see a National Artist and a National Living Legend. 

And our photo-op with Apo wrapped up our journey into the heart of the Cordilleras. 

10:03 AM: The scenery 

I thought our escapade in Luzon was over. 

On our way to the base, we were enthralled by views of the verdant mountains and rice terraces. 

And the stairs and concrete pathway? 

They looked picture-perfect in daylight. 

Once we arrived at the base, we had light snacks and refreshments. 

Afterward, we stopped by the “Welcome to Buscalan” sign and snapped pictures of the mountains. 

And I had learned and realized so many things on our 13-hour journey back to Manila. 

First, personal growth isn’t about adding bullet points and skills to your resume. 

It’s about discovering passions, learning new skills, and becoming a well-rounded individual. 

And overworking not only leaves you feeling unfulfilled, but it also stunts your personal growth. 

Sure, work is an essential part of life, but it’s not the sum of your existence. 

So, find a healthy work-life balance. 

It’s not a luxury but a necessity for a fulfilling and satisfying life. 

We may never find Peter Pan’s Neverland, but we can always take days off, and make memories. 

Your work will be there tomorrow, but the moments of today are irreplaceable. 

And truthfully, this may be the only chance I could take a Buscalan tour and see Apo Whang Od. 

Frequently Asked Questions 

Why visit buscalan, kalinga.

Aside from getting a tattoo from Apo or her proteges, there are a lot of things to do in Buscalan. You can explore the rice terraces, drink their coffee, and talk to locals about their traditions and culture. There are side trips along the way too, including the Banaue Rice Terraces. 

Is Buscalan near Baguio City?

Buscalan is a bit far from Baguio. You need to travel about 180 kilometers to reach Buscalan from Baguio. 

How to get to Buscalan, Kalinga?

The easiest and most convenient way to get to Buscalan, Kalinga is to join a tour. For those from Cebu, I recommend SUGBO Adventours . If you’re from Manila, you can contact sir Greg for your transportation and Buscalan tour. 

How much does a tattoo cost in Buscalan?

A tattoo in Buscalan costs around PHP 200 to PHP 50,000. The signature 3-dot tattoo from Apo, Grace, and Elyang costs PHP 200. On average, the small predesigned tattoos in Buscalan cost PHP 1,000 to PHP 1,500.

The best ideas don’t come when you’re working and staring at your computer for hours. 

They come when you’re enjoying a hobby, taking a walk with nature, or on a long van ride. 

Our brain needs downtown to come up with new and innovative ideas. 

For the past few months, I couldn’t come up with creative ideas. 

I had writer’s block and had no idea what to write about for my blog. 

And my time off work and experiences in Luzon have sparked my creative juices. 

Just staring into the eyes of Apo gave me a plethora of ideas. 

And that’s why I’m sharing this story with you. 

Aldrich Infantado

Aldrich Infantado is a travel junkie and a writing aficionado who loves to share amazing travel tips to his fellow travelers.

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Walking Tour: Kitai Gorod

Kitai Gorod, with its twisting and winding streets, is the oldest section of Moscow outside the Kremlin. The literal translation of Kitai Gorod is "Chinatown," but there has never been a Chinese settlement here. The origin of the word kitai is disputed; it may come from the Tatar word for fortress, but most likely it derives from the Russian word kita, in reference to the bundles of twigs that were used to reinforce the earthen wall that once surrounded the area.

Kitai Gorod begins where Red Square ends. Settlement of this area began in the 12th century, around the time that the fortified city of Moscow was founded on Borovitsky Hill (the site of the present-day Kremlin). By the 14th century Kitai Gorod was a thriving trade district, full of shops and markets. At that time it was surrounded by earthen ramparts, which were replaced in the 16th century by a fortified wall, remnants of which still remain. As Moscow grew, so did Kitai Gorod.

At the time of the Bolshevik Revolution it was the city's most important financial and commercial district, with major banks, warehouses, and trading companies concentrated here. These days the multitude of shops, restaurants, and banks demonstrates the area's reasserted role as an energized commercial center.

A good starting point for your tour is Nikolskaya ulitsa, which begins at the corner opposite the Historical Museum and runs along the north side of GUM. If you are coming from St. Basil's, walk away from St. Basil's toward the Historical Museum alongside GUM. If you are coming from outside of Red Square, get to Nikolskaya by way of Teatralnaya Ploshchad (Theater Square). If you are standing with your back to the Bolshoi on this square, walk straight ahead, cross the street, and enter one of the narrow passageways to the right or left of the Teatralnaya metro station (as you are facing it). Taking a right out of either passageway will bring you to Nikolskaya ulitsa. Go a short way farther to the right, to the cobblestone edge of Red Square, to begin your walk.

Nikolskaya ulitsa, which is named after the Kremlin's Nikolskaya Gate Tower, is one of the oldest streets in Moscow. At the corner with Red Square is the Kazansky Sobor . Leaving the church, take a left to make your way through the teeming crowds of shoppers on Nikolskaya ulitsa to No. 7, the Zaikonospassky Monastyr , the former Slavonic-Greco-Latin Academy now undergoing a slow restoration. Farther down the street, also on the left-hand side, is a once brightly painted white-and-aqua building with an elaborate facade (No. 15). The building was erected in 1810-14 on the site of the 16th-century Pechatny Dvor (Printing Yard), where Russia's first printed book was assembled in 1553. Today the building houses the Moscow Institute of Historical Records and the Moscow Humanitarian University. Cross the street to go down Bogoyavlensky pereulok. Halfway down the block, opposite the entrance to the Ploshchad Revolutsii metro, is the Bogoyavlensky Sobor . Continue down the street to where it intersects with ulitsa Ilinka. Before the 1917 revolution this was Moscow's Wall Street, and it is still lined with the impressive facades of former banks.

On the left-hand corner stands the former Ryabushinsky Bank . As you cross the street, look to your right; ulitsa Ilinka leads directly to the Kremlin's Tower of the Savior. At No. 3 stands the Tserkov Svyatoi Ilii church from which the street takes its name. The church, which dates to 1520, is in disrepair except for its facade. Opposite the church is one of the border streets of the Gostinny Dvor merchant's arcade. Turn left and walk the length of Khrustalny pereulok to reach one of the oldest streets in Moscow, Varvarka ulitsa. The opposite side of the street is lined with quaint old churches and buildings, but the first thing you'll likely notice is the gray bulk of the massive, concrete-and-glass Rossiya, one of Europe's largest and most unattractive hotels.

At the farthest corner of the street, to your right, is the Tserkov Velikomuchenitsy Varvary . Adjacent is the English Court . Next comes the white-stone Tserkov Maksima Blazhennovo . The pointed bell tower situated just before the semicircle sidewalk leading to the upper-level entrance of the Rossiya hotel was once attached to the redbrick Znamensky Sobor on the other side of the sidewalk; with its foundation on the slope below, it is set back from the street. At No. 10 is the Palaty Romanovych v Zaryadye , believed to be the birthplace of Tsar Mikhail Romanov. Before leaving Varvarka ulitsa take note of the last church, the blue Tserkov Georgiya na Pskovskoy Gorke at No. 12.

If you stand to the left of the church (on the walkway leading to the Rossiya hotel) you can glimpse a remnant of Kitai Gorod's 16th-century brick fortification wall. It is to your left, opposite the hotel's eastern facade. Cross to the other side of Varvarka ulitsa and walk a short hop past the final church. Make a right and climb up the narrow Ipatevsky pereulok, which leads to several government and administrative buildings. At the top of the incline to the right is one of Moscow's best-preserved 17th-century churches, the Tserkov Troitsy v Nikitnikach .

Continue down the lane to the right of the church to reach Novaya Ploshchad, or New Square, which is more like a boulevard than a square. To your right, at the far bottom of the hill, Slavyanskaya Ploshchad opens up. At the bottom of the hill is the redbrick Tserkov Vsekh Svyatykh na Kulishkakh . From Novaya Ploshchad stroll for a long block or two past the government buildings, where the Central Committee of the Communist Party once sat. Now these buildings house the Duma of the Moscow Region. Soon you will come to the beginning of a busy intersection. To your right, in the median strip that divides Novaya Ploshchad, is a park that holds the Plevna Memorial, an octagonal, towerlike monument commemorating the Russian soldiers who fell in the Battle of Plevna in the Russo-Turkish War (1878). Keep walking up the street on the left side to go to the Muzey Istorii Goroda Moskvy , a small museum on Moscow's history.

Note the building on the opposite side of the street that takes up the entire block. This is the Politekhnichesky Muzey , a museum of science and technology. Directly north of this museum is yet another museum, Muzey Mayakovskovo , which includes a re-creation of the study of the great revolutionary poet. A short distance from here, Novaya Ploshchad intersects with the circular Lubyanskaya Ploshchad , where you can behold the Lubyanka Prison and the former KGB headquarters, which now house the FSB -- the New Russia's federal security service. On the west side of the square is Detsky Mir, a large department store that used to specialize in toys but now carries all sorts of items.

Walk past Lubyanskaya Ploshchad to the west side, down to where it converges with the broad street of Teatralny proyezd, Moscow's most elite shopping street. On a side street to your right stands the ornate and luxurious Savoy hotel (3 Rozhdestvenka ulitsa), which, like the nearby Metropol hotel, was built in connection with the celebrations in the early 20th century honoring 300 years of the Romanov dynasty. On the left-hand side of the street you will pass a statue of Ivan Fyodorov, the printer who produced Russia's first book at the old Printing Yard on Nikolskaya ulitsa. The arched gateway just to the right of the statue links Teatralny proyezd with Nikolskaya ulitsa, the street on which you started the tour. Teatralny proyezd leads into Teatralnaya Ploshchad, site of three of Moscow's most important theaters.

Taking up the block on the southeast corner, the first building you will encounter to your left as you approach Teatralnaya Ploshchad is the Metropol , an art nouveau hotel. Reaching the square, you will see at the center a large monument to Karl Marx, carved on the spot from a 200-ton block of granite and unveiled in 1961. Across the boulevard stands the Bolshoi Theater , flanked on the left, on the corner farthest away from you, by the Central Children's Theater, and, to the right, by the Maly Theater . Turn left at the corner of the Metropol, and walk by the park and the hotel's main entrance. The large redbrick wall ahead is the other surviving remnant of the 16th-century fortification wall that once surrounded Kitai Gorod.

The wall has been heavily rebuilt, and a new tower has been added. Inside the tower are a couple of restaurants and bars. When you reach the Teatralnaya/Ploshchad Revolutsii metro station, take a moment to admire the exterior of the massive redbrick building on the corner -- the Muzey V. I. Lenina . If you still have some time but not much energy, consider hopping on Trolleybus 2, which can be caught at the bus stop opposite the Bolshoi Theater. The trolley ride takes about 45 minutes and makes a loop passing by Lubyanskaya Ploshchad, Ploshchad Pobedi (Victory Square -- note the obelisk topped by an angel), the Borodino Battle Panorama (in a circular blue pavilion), Kievsky vokzal (train station), the Novy Arbat, and Alexander Garden, before returning to Teatralnaya Ploshchad. You can purchase a ticket for 10R from the driver. Try to have exact change. Make sure to punch the ticket on board the bus.

Taken at a leisurely pace, with stops at least to glance at the interiors of the many churches along the route, this walk should take about five hours. If you intend to take a quick look at the exhibits in the museums along the way, you'll need an entire day. Both the Politekhnichesky Muzey and the Muzey Istorii Goroda Moskvy are worth coming back to for a more leisurely look at their holdings.

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