trek 820 handlebars

Unleash Your Inner Geek on a Bike

How to Raise the Handlebars on a Trek Bike

Shahed Parvej

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To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, you can either get a stem riser or replace the stem with one that has a higher rise or a larger angle. This will allow you to adjust the handlebar height and make your riding position more comfortable.

Additionally, you can also replace flat handlebars with a riser model, which can be slightly higher than flat bars. By following these steps, you can easily raise the handlebars on your Trek bike and customize your riding experience for optimal comfort.

Step 1: Assessing Your Handlebar Height

To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, start by assessing the handlebar height. This can be done by adjusting the stem or using a stem riser. Choose a stem with a larger angle or a shorter stem altogether to achieve the desired handlebar height.

Before you can start raising the handlebars on your Trek bike, you need to assess the current handlebar position. This step is crucial as it helps you determine if an adjustment is necessary and how much you need to raise the handlebars.

Checking The Current Handlebar Position

To check the current handlebar position, follow these steps:

• Stand in front of your bike and ensure it is on a level surface.
• Locate the stem, which is the component connecting the handlebars to the fork of the bike.
• Note the position of the stem in relation to the steerer tube. The steerer tube is the vertical tube that connects the fork to the frame.
• Observe the number and position of any spacers between the stem and the headset.

By checking the current handlebar position, you can get a better understanding of the adjustments that need to be made to raise the handlebars successfully.

Identifying The Need For Adjustment

After checking the current handlebar position, you can now identify whether an adjustment is needed. Here are a few signs that indicate the need to raise the handlebars:

• You experience discomfort or pain in your wrists, shoulders, or back while riding.
• Your riding posture feels too hunched over, causing strain on your neck.
• Your bike feels unstable or difficult to control, especially when turning or navigating rough terrain.
• You want a more relaxed and upright riding position, which is ideal for casual rides or long-distance cycling.

By identifying these signs, you can determine if an adjustment to the handlebar height is necessary to improve your comfort and overall riding experience.

Step 2: Tools And Materials Needed

To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, you may need tools such as a stem riser or a stem with a higher angle or shorter length. This adjustment can improve your riding position and make it more comfortable.

Step 3: Loosening The Stem Bolts

To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, start by loosening the stem bolts. This will allow you to adjust the height of the handlebars according to your preference.

Loosening the stem bolts is the next crucial step in raising the handlebars on your Trek bike. This step allows for the necessary movement and adjustment to achieve your desired handlebar height. Follow these simple instructions to ensure a smooth and successful process:

Preparing The Bike For Handlebar Adjustment

• Find a suitable workspace where you can comfortably work on your bike.
• Ensure your bike is securely placed on a stand or elevated surface to provide stable support.
• Make sure you have the necessary tools, including an Allen wrench or suitable tool for the stem bolts.

Loosening The Bolts To Allow Movement

Now that you’ve prepared your bike for handlebar adjustment, it’s time to proceed with loosening the stem bolts. Follow these steps:

• Locate the stem bolts on the top of your bike’s steerer tube. These bolts connect the stem to the fork and hold the handlebars in place.
• Using the appropriate tool, turn the stem bolts counterclockwise to loosen them. Be sure to loosen each bolt evenly to allow for a balanced adjustment.
• Continue loosening the bolts until you feel some loosening of the stem, allowing for upward movement. Keep in mind that you may need to apply some force, but be careful not to overtighten or strip the bolts.
• Once the bolts are sufficiently loosened, you can gently move the stem upwards to raise the handlebars to your desired height.

Remember, it’s important to maintain a balanced adjustment and ensure the stem is securely tightened once you’ve achieved the desired handlebar height. This will provide stability and safety while riding your Trek bike.

In the next step, we will discuss how to securely tighten the stem bolts to complete the handlebar adjustment process. Stay tuned!

Step 4: Adjusting The Handlebar Height

Adjusting the handlebar height on a Trek bike is a simple process that can improve your riding comfort. By following the steps outlined above, you can raise the handlebars using spacers or flipping the stem for a more ergonomic position.

Now that you’ve learned about the different methods of raising the handlebars on your Trek bike, it’s time to dive into the fourth step: adjusting the handlebar height. This step involves two techniques that you can use to achieve the desired height: raising the handlebars using spacers and flipping the stem for increased height.

Raising The Handlebars Using Spacers

If you’re looking for a simple and cost-effective way to raise the handlebars on your Trek bike, using spacers is a great option. Handlebar spacers are small, cylindrical pieces that can be inserted between the stem and the headset to increase the height.

To raise the handlebars using spacers, follow these steps:

• Loosen the stem bolts using an Allen wrench.
• Gently lift the stem and handlebars upward to create some space.
• Place the desired number of spacers on top of the headset.
• Align the stem with the spacers and tighten the bolts to secure everything in place.
• Ensure that the stem is properly aligned and the handlebars are level before tightening the bolts completely.

By adding or removing spacers, you can fine-tune the height of your handlebars to achieve the most comfortable riding position. Experiment with different spacer combinations until you find the height that suits you best.

Flipping The Stem For Increased Height

If you’ve already reached the maximum height using spacers or want to explore other options, flipping the stem can provide further elevation for your handlebars. This technique involves removing the stem, turning it upside down, and reinstalling it onto the bike.

To flip the stem for increased height, follow these steps:

• Remove the stem from the headset by pulling it upward.
• Turn the stem upside down, so the angle between the stem and the handlebars is reversed.
• Reinsert the stem into the headset and align it with the desired height.
• Tighten the bolts to secure the stem in place.

Flipping the stem not only raises the handlebars but also alters your riding position by changing the reach and the angle of the handlebars. Make sure to test your new setup and adjust the stem angle as needed to achieve a comfortable riding position.

With these two techniques, you now have the knowledge to adjust the handlebar height on your Trek bike to best suit your riding style and comfort preferences. Remember to take your time and make small adjustments until you find the perfect handlebar height for an enjoyable and pain-free ride.

Step 5: Ensuring Proper Tightening

To ensure proper tightening of the handlebars on a Trek bike, follow these steps carefully and avoid any overused phrases. Keep sentences brief, choose different expressions, and make your content SEO-friendly and easy to understand.

Tightening The Stem Bolts Securely

Testing the stability of the handlebars, step 6: checking for comfort and fit.

To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, follow these steps. First, loosen the stem cap and remove any spacer above the stem. Then, adjust the stem to your desired height and tighten the bolts. Finally, reassemble the stem cap and test for comfort and fit.

Making Adjustments For A Comfortable Riding Position

Once you have raised the handlebars to your desired height, the next step is to make further adjustments for a comfortable riding position. It’s important to ensure that your bike fits you properly to prevent any discomfort or strain while riding.

One way to achieve a comfortable riding position is by adjusting the stem. The stem is the component that connects the handlebars to the steering tube of your bike. By adjusting the stem, you can fine-tune the reach and height of the handlebars.

If you still feel that the handlebars are too low, you can try installing a stem riser. A stem riser is an extension that raises the height of the stem, allowing you to achieve a more upright riding position. Alternatively, you can also consider getting a stem with a larger angle or a shorter stem altogether, which can also help in raising the handlebars and bringing them closer to you.

Testing The Handlebar Height Before Finalizing

Before finalizing the handlebar height, it’s crucial to test and ensure that it feels comfortable and provides a good fit for your body. Here are a few things you can do to check the handlebar height:

• Take your bike for a short test ride around your neighborhood. Pay attention to how your body feels in relation to the handlebars. Are you able to maintain a relaxed and comfortable grip? Does the height allow you to maintain an upright posture without strain on your back or neck?
• Experiment with different handlebar positions. You can try adjusting the angle of the handlebars slightly up or down to find the most comfortable position for you. Remember, small adjustments can make a big difference in your riding experience.
• Consider your riding style and preferences. If you prefer a more aggressive riding position, you may opt for a lower handlebar height. On the other hand, if you prioritize comfort and a more relaxed riding stance, a higher handlebar height may be more suitable.

Remember, finding the perfect handlebar height is a personal preference, and what works for one rider may not work for another. It’s important to listen to your body and make adjustments accordingly. Once you have tested the handlebar height and ensured a comfortable fit, you can enjoy a more enjoyable and ergonomic biking experience.

Step 7: Additional Considerations For Trek Bikes

For those looking to raise the handlebars on their Trek bike, there are several additional considerations to keep in mind. This includes options such as using a stem riser, adjusting the stem height, or even considering a new stem with a steeper rise.

Don’t let discomfort affect your cycling experience, explore these possibilities to find the perfect fit.

When it comes to raising the handlebars on your Trek bike, it’s important to consider the specific model you have. Different Trek bikes may have different handlebar options and limitations. In this step, we will explore handlebar options for specific Trek models and discuss the limitations and compatibility that you should be aware of. By understanding these considerations, you can ensure that your handlebar adjustment is both safe and suitable for your bike.

Exploring Handlebar Options For Specific Trek Models

Each Trek bike model may have its own unique handlebar options. It’s important to choose a handlebar that suits your riding style and preferences. Here are some popular handlebar options for specific Trek models:

Understanding The Limitations And Compatibility

When raising the handlebars on your Trek bike, it’s important to be aware of the limitations and the compatibility of different components. Here are a few key considerations:

• Compatibility with stem: Ensure that the new handlebars are compatible with the stem of your Trek bike.
• Handlebar clamp diameter: Check the clamp diameter of your stem to ensure it matches the diameter of the handlebars you want to install.
• Cable routing: Consider the cable routing on your Trek bike and how it may be affected by the new handlebars. Ensure that the cables have enough length and can be properly routed.
• Brake and gear compatibility: Check if the new handlebars are compatible with your current brake and gear systems. Make sure the levers and shifters can be properly installed and function effectively.

Understanding the limitations and compatibility factors is crucial to ensure a successful handlebar adjustment on your Trek bike. By taking these considerations into account, you can avoid any compatibility issues and ensure that your handlebar modification is both safe and effective.

Credit: www.trekchicago.com

Frequently Asked Questions Of How To Raise The Handlebars On A Trek Bike

Can you raise the handlebars on a trek bike.

Yes, you can raise the handlebars on a Trek bike by either using a stem riser or getting a stem with a larger angle or a shorter length. This will make your riding position less stretched and more comfortable. Additionally, you can also replace your flat handlebars with a riser model to increase the height.

What Is The Problem With The Handlebars On A Trek Bike?

The problem with the handlebars on a Trek bike is that the carbon base bar and handlebar/stem can crack if overloaded, posing a safety risk. Trek has issued a recall for these products to ensure customer safety. It is important to have the handlebars inspected and replaced if necessary.

Can You Raise The Height Of Bike Handlebars?

Yes, you can raise the height of bike handlebars by moving the stem or flipping it. If that doesn’t provide enough height, you can consider using a stem riser, a stem with a higher rise, or a shorter stem altogether.

Another option is to replace flat bars with riser bars for additional height.

To raise the handlebars on your Trek bike, follow the simple steps outlined in this guide. By adjusting the stem or adding stem raisers, you can achieve a more comfortable riding position. Remember to consult your bike’s owner’s manual for specific instructions and safety guidelines.

With the right tools and knowledge, you can customize your bike to fit your needs and enjoy a more enjoyable cycling experience. Don’t forget to prioritize your safety while making any adjustments. Happy riding!

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Colors: Matte Metallic Black

Frame: Trek Custom Steel w/chromoly seat tube, replaceable derailleur hanger

Front suspension: SR Suntour M-2025 w/coil spring, 63mm travel

Sizes: 13, 16, 18, 19.5, 21”

Wheels: Formula FM21 alloy front hub; FM31 alloy rear hub w/Bontrager 550 36-hole rims

Tires: Bontrager LT3, 26x2.0"

Shifters: Shimano Tourney, 7 speed

Front derailleur: Shimano TX

Rear derailleur: Shimano TX35

Crank: Forged alloy 3 piece, 48/38/28

Cassette: Shimano TZ31 14-34, 7 speed

Pedals: Wellgo nylon platform

Saddle: Bontrager SSR

Seatpost: Bontrager SSR, 31.6mm, 20mm offset

Handlebar: Bontrager Riser, 25.4mm, 30mm rise

Stem: Bontrager Forged, 25.4mm

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820 is an excellent entryway to a world of off-road adventures. It's the most affordable mountain bike in our lineup and the ideal choice for beginners who are interested in the MTB life but also want a hybrid bike that's as equally suited to light trails as it is to potholed city streets. It's right for you if... You're ready to try mountain biking to see if you fall in love, and want a bike you can ride wherever you choose. You plan to ride all types of terrain, from city streets to gravel paths and light singletrack. The tech you get 820 has a strong steel frame, a reliable 21-speed Shimano drivetrain, semi-slick tires that roll well on pavement and trails, durable alloy wheels, and a suspension fork that takes the edge off bumps. Plus, it has mounts so you can accessorize with racks, fenders, lights, and more. The final word 820 is a great bike for anyone testing the waters of off-road riding. It's versatile, durable, and works well on rough pavement, light trails, and more. Why you'll love it - 820 is a great bike at an even better price, and it lets you explore off-road riding without the giant price tag that comes with higher-end mountain bikes - The high-volume mountain bike tires and suspension fork take the edge off rough roads and trails - Rack and fender mounts make it easy to accessorize, so your mountain bike can double as a rugged commuter

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• Frame Trek Custom Steel, rack mounts, 135x5mm QR
• Fork SR Suntour M-3030, coil spring, 100x5mm QR, 75mm travel
• Chain KMC Z7, 7 speed
• Crank Shimano Tourney TY301, 42/34/24, 170mm length
• Shifters Shimano Tourney EF41, 7 speed
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• Handlebar Size: XS, S Bontrager alloy, 31.8mm, 15mm rise, 660mm width Size: M/L, L, XL Bontrager alloy, 31.8mm, 15mm rise, 690mm width
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A 2021 Trek 820 weights ML - 15.28 kg / 33.68 lbs (with tubes).

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Trek 820 - 2022

820 is an excellent entryway to a world of off-road adventures. It's the most affordable mountain bike in our lineup and the ideal choice for beginners who are interested in the MTB life but also want a hybrid bike that's as equally suited to light trails as it is to potholed city streets. It's right for you if... You're ready to try mountain biking to see if you fall in love, and want a bike you can ride wherever you choose. You plan to ride all types of terrain, from city streets to gravel paths and light singletrack. The tech you get 820 has a strong steel frame, a reliable 21-speed Shimano drivetrain, semi-slick tires that roll well on pavement and trails, durable alloy wheels, and a suspension fork that takes the edge off bumps. Plus, it has mounts so you can accessorize with racks, fenders, lights, and more. The final word 820 is a great bike for anyone testing the waters of off-road riding. It's versatile, durable, and works well on rough pavement, light trails, and more. Why you'll love it - 820 is a great bike at an even better price, and it lets you explore off-road riding without the giant price tag that comes with higher-end mountain bikes - The high-volume mountain bike tires and suspension fork take the edge off rough roads and trails - Rack and fender mounts make it easy to accessorize, so your mountain bike can double as a rugged commuter

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How to Raise Handlebars on Trek Mountain Bike

Last Updated on March 10, 2022

Trek is one of the biggest and most popular bike manufacturers in the globe. And there’s a good chance you might ride one!

If so, you might have asked yourself how to raise handlebars on Trek mountain bike . Well, you’ve just found the perfect place.

Because here, we’ll show you the right way on how to raise handlebars on Trek mountain bike . We’ll also tell you the tools needed and some tips to adjust your handlebar.

Table of Contents

Tools needed

• Torque wrench

Related: What Mountain Bike Tools Do I Need

How to add headset spacers?

The best way to raise your bike’s handlebar is to add spacers. The first thing to do is to place your bike on your workstation stand.

Make sure that the wheels are firm on the ground. Then slowly loosen the clamp bolts on your stem’s rear area. Add a bit of grease on the top cap’s bolt. This is important to avoid seizing especially if you always ride on gnarly trails.

The next thing to do is to remove the top cap. This is the one that sits directly above the stem’s top part. Then slowly slide the stem away from the steerer tube. You’ll see that it’s like how the bolt and top cap looks like.

Thread these into a star nut. This holds them in place and ensures it won’t topple off when hitting jumps and drops.

But you need to use a bung if you have a carbon handlebar. This is an expanding wedge which makes the adjustment process easier and more accurate.

Decide how many centimeters you’ll raise your handlebar. You need to add more spacers if you want to have a very high handlebar. You’ll usually need 2 or 3 additional spacers if you ride downhill trails.

This provides better maneuverability and control when tackling technical sections. Add a bit of grease so that the two surfaces won’t rub and damage each other. Then slowly slide the stem directly into your steerer tube.

Make sure there’s enough gap between your stem, spacer, and steerer tube. This gap usually measures around 3 to 5 mm. This ensures that there is enough space for the top cap headset to clamp back on your headset bearing.

It also allows the headset to preload. Then slowly palace the bolt and top cap on top of the stem. Tighten it until you feel some kind of resistance. But make sure it’s not too tight as this can break your stem. It’s best if you use a torque wrench to get the right tightness.

The next thing to do is to align your stem with your front wheel. This ensures that the handlebar is at your wheel’s right angle. It also makes it easier for you to straddle on the bike’s top tube. This makes your ride more controllable and comfortable, especially if you always ride downhill.

Get your torque wrench once you’ve aligned the stem and front wheel. Use the torque wrench to clamp the bolts back to the bar.

We recommend you set the torque around 5 to 8 Nm. This isn’t tight or loose, but just right. This is important because a very tight stem might break your handlebar especially if it’s carbon.

Then check the adjustment of your headset. Hold your front brake with one hand, while the other is on your headset. Then slowly rock the handlebar sideways and back and forth.

Get a feel of the rocking motion to see if it’s installed properly. Loosen the clamp bolts again if you feel any rocking motion. Then tighten the top cap bolt again. You’ll usually need just a quarter turn. Then use your torque wrench to tighten the bolts again.

How to flip the stem on a Trek mountain bike?

The most popular way to raise your handlebars is to add spacers. But if these aren’t enough, then you can just flip the stem. This changes the bar height because the shape of the stem is upside down.

Note that most stems are in a positive position which creates an upward angle. But you can flip it so it goes the other way around. Unbolt the handlebar from the stem’s front part. Make sure that both your bike’s wheels are on the ground so it won’t move.

We also recommend putting it on a workstation stand to secure it in place. Remember the angle of the handlebar and brake lever. This is important so you can keep your preferred angle later.

Use masking tape to mark the handlebar and face plate’s original angle. This will help you get the correct angle when refitting. Then undo the bolts which connect the handlebar to the stem’s frontal section. Remove the faceplate of the stem.

Then slowly release the handlebar and let it gently drop to the side. Then follow the steps mentioned above on how to add spacers. Flip the stem that is off the bike and slide it back to its original place on the steerer tube.

Reinstall the handlebar and follow the original angle of the handlebar and brake lever. Tighten the stem to the recommended torque. This is usually around 5 to 8 Nm. Make sure that all bolts are tightened evenly so there’s no gap.

This is very important, so your cockpit won’t rattle and get loose when you jump your bike . There should also be an even gap from top to bottom. The handlebar is pinched if the gap isn’t even. This can damage the bars if left unfixed in the long run.

Knowing how to raise handlebars on Trek mountain bike is important. Not only does this ensure that you are comfortable on your ride. But it also gives better control and safety.

The steps on how to raise handlebars on Trek mountain bike isn’t really difficult. In fact, it’s easy as long as you follow the right steps!

Just remember to take good care of your bike, use the right tools, and ride safely. When you do, then you’ll surely have a fun time riding your Trek mountain bike.

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820 is an excellent entryway to a world of off-road adventures. It's the most affordable mountain bike in our lineup and the ideal choice for beginners who are interested in the MTB life but also want a hybrid bike that's as equally suited to light trails as it is to potholed city streets. It's right for you if... You're ready to try mountain biking to see if you fall in love, and want a bike you can ride wherever you choose. You plan to ride all types of terrain, from city streets to gravel paths and light singletrack. The tech you get 820 has a strong steel frame, a reliable 21-speed Shimano drivetrain, semi-slick tires that roll well on pavement and trails, durable alloy wheels, and a suspension fork that takes the edge off bumps. Plus, it has mounts so you can accessorize with racks, fenders, lights, and more. The final word 820 is a great bike for anyone testing the waters of off-road riding. It's versatile, durable, and works well on rough pavement, light trails, and more. Why you'll love it - 820 is a great bike at an even better price, and it lets you explore off-road riding without the giant price tag that comes with higher-end mountain bikes - The high-volume mountain bike tires and suspension fork take the edge off rough roads and trails - Rack and fender mounts make it easy to accessorize, so your mountain bike can double as a rugged commuter

Due to supply-chain issues, Specs are subject to change without notice.

* Subject to change without notice.

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Plan restoring of Trek 820

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• seat post is Cromo 26mm. I removed it with penetrating oil and lubed it with assembly paste. so should be OK
• Handle bar is threaded and seems to be 22.2 mm so, I hope modern MTB controls work
• tires hold air
• Rear spacing is 133mm (135mm if i ush with my finger). But please verify i measured correctly since the rearhub is listed as 125mm . Maybe they have different versions
• Bearings ar crunchy, but look OK.
• BB is not sealed (haven't opened it yet). I have to see if it requires special tool...
• Rear hub actually is a cassette hub. this is great, however, HG driver seems too short for 11-speed cassette i tried on (I have an 11-speed SLX drivetrain I could use). See the picture with my fingers on the 11-speed cassette and how the lockring wouldn't fit. Also see my driver measurement pic.
• frame has no RD hanger. Can this even use an SLX 7000 RD? what are options in case the original one can't be restored?

I'd clean it, put slightly wider budget bars on it, better pedals (something like DMR V6s or Chester Rides) and new grips (and let her pick the colors of the pedals and grips), new cables if it needs them, and maybe a rack or a basket if you stumble into one cheap at a thrift store or craigslist. Then see how much it actually gets ridden before dropping more into it.  

TimTucker said: I've been there and went through the process of fixing up an old Trek 830. Also had issues with the shifting, so I decided to upgrade to 1x. That required a used wheelset off FB to fit an 8 speed cassette, a narrow wide ring from USA Made to work with the cranks, and Microshift Acolyte derailleur + shifter + cassette. The brake levers on mine were integrated with the shifters, so that also meant new levers. While I was replacing the levers, I also replaced the brakes with newer v-brakes. Along the way it got a lot of other upgrades... If I was doing it over, I'd consider starting off with something like this if she's at least 5' ($300 after 15% off coupon DONTGO15): 29" ABLE Bike Co. CORE It's Saturday morning, and you're ready to hit the local trails. With its size specific lightweight aluminum frame, powerful and easy to control disc brakes, and suspension fork to smooth out the bumps the RBL CORE is ready too. With easy-to-ride modern geometry and great stand over clearance... kent.bike Click to expand...

Sidney Porter said: If you are looking for ideas. This past winter I built a trek 800 for my son. I think this is a 96 or 97, yours looks older based upon the graphics. It's his gravel / neighborhood bike (he also has a MTB for trails and a road bike). We went drop bar conversion. With co-op and parts bin we are less than 200. 3x8 with micro shift brifters. one issue is the front derailleur will not shift to the largest chainring, we have a road derailleur which should fix this. Travel agents for the brakes to work with the different pull We went in this direction because I knew if I built it as a MTB it would not get ridden. He has has a modern MTB (plus a road bike). You mentioned that you have other modern bikes, I assume she also has others. You need to make this interesting enough to make it fun. This bike probably gets the most frequent usage, although they are shorter rides to his friends, pool etc. Click to expand...

MendonCycleSmith said: Solid, basic bike. It will never be more, and it cannot be less. Thus, upgrading to 11 speed is an utter waste (kids don't notice gear count, just, the fun of riding), and putting any component on it that isn't used already, or has a retail price of more than $20/30, is pointless, especially for a kids bike destined to see short use. Keep it running for as little money as possible, should be the ethos, and even the game. Hit up a bike shop for used, plastic, take off pedals. Buy a $25, 7 speed cassette for it while you're there. Going to 8 or more requires a new wheel, which is an utter waste if that one is true and rolls. The money you save, will allow you to bank it for a better bike once they become a teen, growth slows a little, and they might actually take that one into early adulthood. Click to expand...

• FD only goes into granny and middle ring (this actually may not matter, as she comes from 1x7)
• RD shifter does not work. I pull on cable, and no ratcheting works. I read an 8-speed shifter could work (obviously the stop screws need to limit the RD to not go into spokes). Is that universally true? 8-speed shifters may be more readily available and useful for later.
• The BB seems to have cup-cone. I read this can be converted to cartridge BB, or even external bearing. Is that true and can I verify before? I just want to know options before i open that thing.
• I read canti break mounting points are the very same as V-brake. I realize V-brake requires new levers. Is that universally true?
• With that RD hanger (or lack thereof), what limits for RD will i have? Is this what they call direct-mount? OR is it basically like a regular hanger?

29" ABLE Bike Co. CORE

Solid, basic bike. It will never be more, and it cannot be less. Thus, upgrading to 11 speed is an utter waste (kids don't notice gear count, just, the fun of riding), and putting any component on it that isn't used already, or has a retail price of more than $20/30, is pointless, especially for a kids bike destined to see short use. Keep it running for as little money as possible, should be the ethos, and even the game. Hit up a bike shop for used, plastic, take off pedals. Buy a $25, 7 speed cassette for it while you're there. Going to 8 or more requires a new wheel, which is an utter waste if that one is true and rolls. The money you save, will allow you to bank it for a better bike once they become a teen, growth slows a little, and they might actually take that one into early adulthood.  

Unless it's had some aftermarket welding done to it, the bar and stem are seperate. The ends of the bar are 22mm, so modern grips and controls will fit, but the clamping area is 25.4mm. Since she's 12 she might be comfy on 560mm wide bars. But if she's not there are fine ones for <$20. Why do you care about the type of bb? As long as it goes around smoothly there's no need to replace it. Yes, v-brakes need different levers from cantis.  

• BB is super simple, just a straight bsa BB. Easy to swap in a cheap sealed cartridge BB like a shimano un-55. External bearing BBs would work too, but only really apply if you wanted to switch to something that uses a gxp or shimano 24mm spindle.
• v-brakes will work on the mounts but have a different lever pull ratio - some levers have adjustments to sort of work with both, but canti levers are short pull so you might not get enough movement to lock things up with v brakes
• The built in derailleur hanger on the frame is no big deal. Later bikes just separated that out as a sacrificial part. Much more of a big deal on aluminum or carbon frames than on a steel frame that's more tolerant of being bent back into shape if things get off

Based upon the use case I don't think you need as many upgrades as you think. BB- unless she is riding in a lot of bad weather I would replace the bearings and grease and be done with it. The benefit of the cartridges is lack of required maintenance. if you replace the bearings and repack what's the likelyhood that you will service the BB again in the couple years she will ride Canti vs V brakes- like you I like v brakes better. I have a harder time setting up canti. Some of that is lack of experience. That being said when my oldest son (not the one pictured) was that age he raced triathlons and cyclocross on a bike with canti he never had an issue. If you switch you will need new brake levers or travel agents. fD - only going to the middle ring.... That seems like an adjustment issue. That being said an atlus/tourney/acera FD is going to be less than $20 . (The issue I have is mixing road and MTB drive train parts, I actually knew this going in. I thought he could live w/o the largest chainring, he spins out going down hill, I told him to coast) rD- $20 gets you a new one Shifters- I would probably go new. I am pretty sure 7 and 8 speed are the same spacing (google will confirm). I would go with a set Microshift another $20. Chain$20, new cable set$20(cheap bell set), new tires $40. Grease and bearings$10, new brake pads $20 (Kool stop dual compound). So based upon my understand of the usage Grease and replace all bearings $10 New deraileurs $40 New shifters $20 New chain $20 Tires $40 New brake pads (but not new brakes) $20 So we are at $150 add 10% =$165 She will have a bike that is functionally new but not modern. It would be a better bike than what you can buy new for that price. You could find something on craigslist for $50-$150 but that may still need new parts. Will you enjoy doing the build?  

Solid bike IMO, and I had a similar steel Trek years ago that was lots of fun. I'd say clean, lube, replace the cables & housing & grips, then let her ride it. If it's a six speed, probably the rear was 130, but with steel it doesn't matter.  

Shifters just need to be cleaned and lubed and they will work again. Repaired 1000’s of these with WD40. Spray directly into the shifter and keep working the shifter up and down the gears, eventually it will grab the next gear, you can also pull on the cable as you click the shifter to help it free up. Keep doing this process, may take 5 minutes or 5 hours but it will star engaging again.  

Not sure of the age of your bike, but confirm that the cranks are not included in this old Shimano crank recall: VOLUNTARY RECALL - FC-CT90, FC-M290, FC-MC12 CRANKS | SHIMANO INFORMATION & NEWS | SHIMANO BIKE-US Voluntary recall - FC-CT90, FC-M290, FC-MC12 Cranks. It's an old recall, but I had new cranks, BB, FD, and chain replaced at no charge a few months ago on an older Trek I had.  

Your thought of "pulling the plug" is the right answer. You'd have to be able to find a CL or FB garage queen for what even the minimum will be to make that bike presentable and reliable. An 820 was a low-end 'transportation' bike, and that particular one isn't even from a good era for 820s. 200Gs. Plastic-coated steel brakes and cranks. Ugh. I completely understand the appeal of refurbishing an old MTB. But you have to draw the line somewhere in order to make your investment in time, money, and brain cells worthwhile...  

That's a 7 speed, 130 spaced. If your kid is tall enough to fit that frame, go with wider handlebars even though it isn't period correct. Since you didn't know that it's 130 spaced, I'm guessing you don't know how to properly set up cantilever brakes. When they are a little off they are terrible, and when they are setup perfectly, they are only ok. Those pads are so old no matter what they look like, they are junk. You could get new pads, get those brakes setup right, go with a wider bar and better seat and pedals. Grease everything, replace anything junk with castoffs from people like me. You'll need tires, and that frame probably won't clear anything over 2.2. If it were me, I'd go crazy overboard and waste a ton of money on cheap better stuff that the kid won't care about. Vee brakes and used servo wave levers with the reach adjusted in, acolyte 8 speed cassette with a sprocket removed and the shifter setup for extra slack if the kid tries for a higher gear. $30 4x104 1x cranks, $20 chinese square taper TI bottom bracket, a good seat, rocbros or equivalent plastic pedals pedals. Ghetto tubeless of your choice and something like a rocket ron will go a long way towards the kid keeping up with you out there.  

• Serviced the wheel hubs. I was surprised that I was able to adjust them easily (no play, but roll easily). shimano hubs always work great. With formula and others i usually have issues getting it right
• tires likely aren't great, but don't have cracks
• I tested to put my wife's 8-speed cassette on this hub. It also didn't fit. that 8-speed looks like it is one cog wider than the 7-speed cassette. so this seems to be some older narrow- hub-body type of hub.
• My wife's 135mm wheel actually fits into the triangle. So this 132mm seems to be some variance in production and may have started out at 130mm. But I think rocwandrer is onto something here.
• FD shifter only shifted 2 gears. With some mineral spirit, it now shifts fine all 3 gears
• RD shifter is shot. Even tons of mineral spirit only sometimes makes it one-click
• removed quill stem (actually worked fine) and the headset bearings
• remvoed brakes and agree, Canti are just bad to begin with and between new cables and pads, may as well get V-brakes.
• Removed cranks and the lockring. I wasn't able to remove the BB yet. It seems I need the SPA-1 (listed at 2.9mm). those holes measured 3mm. The SPA-2 is listed as 2.3mm, so that may be too small? I hope that would be the only tool I need.
• removed the lockring with pliers and it looks like the drive-side cup could be removed with an adjustable wrench (I don't want to spend $ on tools i never need on modern bikes)
• SPA-tool to remove BB ($12)
• V-brakes ($20 for sets on amazon, but those can't be decent ones????)
• front shifter (will an 8-speed shifter work?) ($20 for soe shimano)
• Chain (I assume 8-speed for the 7-speed)? ($14 KMC)
• new Amazon type BB-crank with external bearings (i had that done before on a better bike, and it was good). Even if this sounds excessive, it is something i could later transfer to a future bike.
• new rear wheel to get a proper 11-speed compatible hub body and re-use my existing 11-speed. Or get some other 1x kit. Again, this is something with potential for use in furture bikes

Planning future builds around a 3x8, seems like a distraction. More than likely you will sell this on craigslist or give it away rather than moving the parts to another frame. unless you think rebuild old bikes is going to be a hobby. Yes a 6,7 and 8 speed chain are interchangable. The spacing is all the same. If you are trying to keep cost down. With the wide spacing you could also go with the friction sun race thumb shifters you can pick up a pair of them for $15-$20. Friction isn't bad up to 8 speeds. Some of this depends on where she rides and how precise she needs to be.  

Sidney Porter said: Planning future builds around a 3x8, seems like a distraction. More than likely you will sell this on craigslist or give it away rather than moving the parts to another frame. unless you think rebuild old bikes is going to be a hobby. Yes a 6,7 and 8 speed chain are interchangable. The spacing is all the same. If you are trying to keep cost down. With the wide spacing you could also go with the friction sun race thumb shifters you can pick up a pair of them for $15-$20. Friction isn't bad up to 8 speeds. Some of this depends on where she rides and how precise she needs to be. Click to expand...

You can get the BB cup out with a chisel and hammer, especially if it's not going back in. Put the chisel tangential (90 degrees to radial) at a low angle away from the surface. Strike the chisel with the hammer firmly. It will turn a little. Readjust your angle and use the same hole again. If it moved at all, should come right out with progressive tapping.  

rocwandrer said: Cheap metal vee brakes easily equal decently adjusted cantilevers. The lever pull of the cantilever levers you have isn't vee brake compatible, so you'll need new levers. They can be super cheap avid's or tektro's, but make sure they have reach adjusters for the kid's kid sized hands. I suggested old servo wave because setup right they have more leverage for the same pad clearance. Click to expand...

6-7-8 speed Shimano hg are the same sprocket thickness and spacing and derailleur cable pull per gear. You can take a sprocket and spacer out of an 8 speed cassette and it becomes 7 speed, compatible with $10 8 speed Shimano compatible shifters which are also compatible with your existing derailleur. With some thin spacers, you can use 9 of your 11 speeds on that hub and the 11 speed shifter. If it isn't on a spider, you can drop any but the 3 highest sprockets from the cassette. I used to build my own 6 speed evenly spaced 9 speed cassettes for chain clearance on my fat bike back when nobody knew what a fat bike was. If can give you some tips if you decide to go that way. I recommend a Chinese 8 speed 1x cassette and a goat link or equivalent if you want to go 1x and keep the present shifter and derailleur. I'd buy a $10 shifter before wasting more time on the present one.  

Cheap metal vee brakes easily equal decently adjusted cantilevers. The lever pull of the cantilever levers you have isn't vee brake compatible, so you'll need new levers. They can be super cheap avid's or tektro's, but make sure they have reach adjusters for the kid's kid sized hands. I suggested old servo wave because setup right they have more leverage for the same pad clearance.  

rocwandrer said: Cheap metal vee brakes easily equal decently adjusted cantilevers. Click to expand...

Servo wave is still around, it's just limited to hydraulic disk brakes above a certain level. On old cable levers, the benefit is reduced the more you have to adjust the reach in. How big are the kid's hands? It sounds like at the budget you have for this, you are better off buying a complete set of new low end vee brakes. Or maybe seeing if someone who rides in your area has a set sitting in a box they don't want to just throw away. If that bike really was missing a bearing from the factory, it's essentially never been ridden. You'd have a wear ring in the spindle on the NDS. I bet the ego of the person who put it back together wrongly is what took it out of service years ago.  

xcandrew said: I'd make it run and fit well and not replace anything that doesn't need replacing. Looks like you need a bottom bracket. Measure the length of the spindle and order a Shimano UN-BB300 ($15-$20) the same length. You'll probably also need a pair of crank fixing bolts. To get the fixed cup off the frame, do you have a bench vise at home? If so, clamp the fixed cup, and turn the frame (left-handed thread!) to get it off. There are right-side Shimano 7-speed brake/shift levers on ebay for about $15 (ST-EF500). That takes care of your broken shifter. It looks like the brake lever likely has adjustable pull because it says it can work with both cantilever and linear pull brakes. Keep in mind that your existing levers are combined brake and shift , and don't have separate mounting clamps to the handlebars. You can change that, but if you get new brake levers that aren't combined brake/shift, you'd need new shifters too, so getting that $15 7-speed brake/shift lever helps keep things budget. Replace the brake and shift cables and cable housings (unless the ones on there already feel nice and slick - unlikely). I wouldn't bother trying to convert to full-length housings. Make sure to do the job well, file down the cable housing ends so they are smooth/flat and square, have the runs smooth but not too long, etc. Measure the old chain with a ruler . When new, the pins are exactly 1/2" apart. Look at pins 12" apart. It shouldn't have worn longer to more than 12-1/8". If so, replace both the chain and cassette (a new chain on an old cassette skips). The front chainrings look like they are probably fine (steel?). There are cheap 7-speed Shimano cassettes on ebay. The reason your 11-speed cassette doesn't fit is because Shimano freehub bodies became longer between 7-speed and 8-speed and up. There is no point doing a freehub swap since you want to keep it low budget. I'd keep the cantilevers unless they prove to be bad with new cables and correct adjustment. Maybe put on a set of new pads (Koolstops are good). I dislike the variable mechanical advantage of Servo Wave levers (about to ditch the left on my bike to match the DiaCompe on my right) - it's less predictable in use. For a kid's bike, it also has a greater risk that she won't know to tell you that the levers are pulling to the bars after some pad wear. Maybe throw on a V-brake on the front if you aren't happy with the cantis after actually riding them. Existing pedals should be fine. But DMR V6s are cheap ($15-20) and good (as long as they aren't getting rock strikes to knock the plastic pins off). I'd put on some new grips and a wider handlebar. (Look on ebay for 25.4 handlebars.) Do an internet search for to see if there is a bike co-op where you live. If so, would be a great place to work on an old bike. They would have tools that you can use for cheap, and lots of old usable parts for cheap. It's nice especially for trying out different old stem lengths and bars. Click to expand...

I'd make it run and fit well and not replace anything that doesn't need replacing. Looks like you need a bottom bracket. Measure the length of the spindle and order a Shimano UN-BB300 ($15-$20) the same length. You'll probably also need a pair of crank fixing bolts. To get the fixed cup off the frame, do you have a bench vise at home? If so, clamp the fixed cup, and turn the frame (left-handed thread!) to get it off. There are right-side Shimano 7-speed brake/shift levers on ebay for about $15 (ST-EF500). That takes care of your broken shifter. It looks like the brake lever likely has adjustable pull because it says it can work with both cantilever and linear pull brakes. Keep in mind that your existing levers are combined brake and shift, and don't have separate mounting clamps to the handlebars. You can change that, but if you get new brake levers that aren't combined brake/shift, you'd need new shifters too, so getting that $15 7-speed brake/shift lever helps keep things budget. Replace the brake and shift cables and cable housings (unless the ones on there already feel nice and slick - unlikely). I wouldn't bother trying to convert to full-length housings. Make sure to do the job well, file down the cable housing ends so they are smooth/flat and square, have the runs smooth but not too long, etc. Measure the old chain with a ruler. When new, the pins are exactly 1/2" apart. Look at pins 12" apart. It shouldn't have worn longer to more than 12-1/8". If so, replace both the chain and cassette (a new chain on an old cassette skips). The front chainrings look like they are probably fine (steel?). There are cheap 7-speed Shimano cassettes on ebay. The reason your 11-speed cassette doesn't fit is because Shimano freehub bodies became longer between 7-speed and 8-speed and up. There is no point doing a freehub swap since you want to keep it low budget. I'd keep the cantilevers unless they prove to be bad with new cables and correct adjustment. Maybe put on a set of new pads (Koolstops are good). I dislike the variable mechanical advantage of Servo Wave levers (about to ditch the left on my bike to match the DiaCompe on my right) - it's less predictable in use. For a kid's bike, it also has a greater risk that she won't know to tell you that the levers are pulling to the bars after some pad wear. Maybe throw on a V-brake on the front if you aren't happy with the cantis after actually riding them. Existing pedals should be fine. But DMR V6s are cheap ($15-20) and good (as long as they aren't getting rock strikes to knock the plastic pins off). I'd put on some new grips and a wider handlebar. (Look on ebay for 25.4 handlebars.) Do an internet search for to see if there is a bike co-op where you live. If so, would be a great place to work on an old bike. They would have tools that you can use for cheap, and lots of old usable parts for cheap. It's nice especially for trying out different old stem lengths and bars.  

My co-op is pretty good and well organized, but shifters and brakes are not their strong suit. They are organized but the pairs are separate. You also need to pay attention that all of the loose pieces are attached. They are affordable. The trek 800 drop bar conversion (pictured in this thread) has co-op parts: saddle, handlebar, rear wheel and cassette it totaled either $30-$35 (I paid them $50 as a donation, everything looked close to new)  

Sidney Porter said: My co-op is pretty good and well organized, but shifters and brakes are not their strong suit. They are organized but the pairs are separate. You also need to pay attention that all of the loose pieces are attached. They are affordable. The trek 800 drop bar conversion (pictured in this thread) has co-op parts: saddle, handlebar, rear wheel and cassette it totaled either $30-$35 (I paid them $50 as a donation, everything looked close to new) Click to expand...

surly357 said: From the perspective of a guy who was building and selling those BITD, and maintaining them for decades after that, it's funny to see your expectations on the old parts. I'm sure it's very common with the "younger generation". I'm NOT knocking it or putting you down, it's just interesting to see how far 'normal' has shifted. Thinking 200Gs brake levers would have a leverage adjustment for V-brakes, expecting a master link, stuff like that. The old "still in the business" me would be pounding on the 'rolleyes' emoji, but "glad to be out of the business" me just finds these threads entertaining. ;-) Click to expand...

From the perspective of a guy who was building and selling those BITD, and maintaining them for decades after that, it's funny to see your expectations on the old parts. I'm sure it's very common with the "younger generation". I'm NOT knocking it or putting you down, it's just interesting to see how far 'normal' has shifted. Thinking 200Gs brake levers would have a leverage adjustment for V-brakes, expecting a master link, stuff like that. The old "still in the business" me would be pounding on the 'rolleyes' emoji, but "glad to be out of the business" me just finds these threads entertaining. ;-)  

Personally I would not worry about crank length unless she is getting (and complaining) a lot of pedal strike.  

Kids this age don't really pay that much attention to these details unless they are really dialed in. I am basing this on working with kids starting out in NICA.  

Vintage Trek Bicycle Catalogs and Bike Brochures, Fisher, Klein LeMond

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Raise Handlebars on NCM Moscow Plus

• Thread starter zumafan
• Start date Jul 5, 2020

Active Member

• May 26, 2021

john peck said: There are also riser bars available online, 3¨, 5¨, 8¨, 10¨, but they are mostly new old stock that require 31.8 adapter, not expensive. I´ve added a light bar to my 5¨cut from 3/4¨ tubing for display & other dash board stuff, also hang my bar bag on it. The higher risers, 5,8,10, may be too much for the stock cable & sheaths to reach. Click to expand...

ovt said: Hello everyone. I found this stem on aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32897377444.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.226c3c00xXFf8l&mp=1 I have the bike with the 27.5inch wheels. I measure 1.78cm and after a longer trip I have hands pain with the stock stem. f i buy the 31.8x110mm adjustable stem will be fine for me? Click to expand...

Well-Known Member

RJC said: I brought a similar one on Amazon, it was a big improvement. I found I didn't have to tilt my head up as much to see where I was going. If you get the Ergonomic Handle Bar Grips with Extenders you will find this will help your hand pain as you an put your wrists in a different position. Click to expand...

• May 27, 2021
• May 31, 2021

ovt said: I bought this one 31.8x110mm from aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32897377444.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.11b74c4dacqNqt i'll buy also this Grips https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001275475590.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.746d3c00cLWR74&mp=1 Click to expand...

Presplan said: I was thinking about the Ergon GP5 large size grips for my Moscow plus. Don’t know if I should get the gripshift or regular version however. The regular version has a longer width then the gripshift model, but cant tell if it’s going to be too long. Should I get the gripsize version instead? If i get the regular model, I might not have enough room for the brakes, throttle, bell, shifter, and phone holder - might have to cut it. If I get the gripshift version, it might be too short. Which Version did you purchase? Click to expand...

Thanks for the information. Most independent vendors don’t have it in stock. I just ordered it from Amazon but it won’t arrive until mid July. I’ll keep you posted.  

• Jun 2, 2021

Attachments

• Feb 26, 2022

BlackHand said: The EBR review of the 2019 model lists this as the stock stem: Promax, Alloy, 90mm Length, 31.8mm Clamp Diameter, One 15mm Spacer, Two 10mm Spacers, One 5mm Spacer Is the reach ok? In other words, are you just trying to go up or do you want to bring the handlebar in closer to you at the same time? Click to expand...

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