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Brake Pedal Travel Before Engagement

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#1 Diller Posted 07-27-2015 09:11 PM

• Location: Nashville
• Region: South East
• Car Year: 1999
• Car Number: 13

I have a concern with my brake pedal that either just happened or I just noticed it. The car is a 94 and it has been a little over a month since I drove the car so my foot may be out of calibration. I drive a 1.6 to work and it has a much more immediate pedal pressure.

After rebuilding the calipers, I bled the system and with the car off I had a very firm pedal. As soon as I introduced vacuum with the car being on, there is about an inch drop before I get a hard pedal. I went ahead and bled the system some more while tapping on all the calipers to try to free up any hidden bubbles. I also checked the function of the vacuum check valve and it is working. After flushing a liter of brake fluid, same condition. For shiggles I replaced the master cylinder, took all the calipers off and checked for sticking sliders or pistons and put another liter of brake fluid through the system. Same symptoms. I will be at Road Atlanta this weekend and don't really have a way to test the braking performance before I get out on track. I guess I might try just locking up the brakes in the driveway to make sure I can get enough force on them without the pedal hitting the floor.

The only thing in the system that is not new is the brake booster however I figured I would get no assistance if that were the case. Everything may be fine but I wanted to compare notes with other to see if I am missing something.

#2 Erik Hardy Posted 07-28-2015 05:44 AM

• Location: Michigan
• Region: Great Lakes
• Car Year: 1991
• Car Number: 39

I had the same symptoms at the beginning of the year with "not much life left carbotechs", new pads did the trick for me. No matter how much I bled everything, I could get a firm pedal with the car off but as soon as the car was on, it went to the floor. 

#3 Diller Posted 07-28-2015 06:20 AM

It looks like the pads have plenty of life left but I have a spare set so I might as well throw those on and see if it helps.

Also, the rear calipers have had the e-brake adjuster removed so they shouldn't be contributing to the issue.

#4 bmarshall1 Posted 07-28-2015 09:13 AM

• Location: United States
• Region: SW Florida
• Car Number: 23

Looking to see the results...

#5 Keith Novak Posted 07-28-2015 10:00 AM

Steadily Improving Member

• 1,128 posts
• Location: Seattle
• Region: Northwest/Oregon
• Car Year: 1995
• Car Number: 88

Sounds about like my '95.  There is some travel before you can feel the pad making contact, and then Carbotech pads are kind of squishy.  The firm point is a bit below the gas pedal, but still quite a distance from the floor (unless I just drove over curbs or went farmin').  You can generally get a firmer pedal feel without the car running, but then as soon as you turn the key and the booster kicks in, it's a bit squishy again.  I've tried different hoses. I have East St. calipers, new master cylinder bench bled multiple times and everything new but the booster and the hard lines.

I modified my pedals and heel-toe technique to accommodate. I've been experimenting with different pads as well and they definitely have different feels for when they're firm.  If you don't bench bleed the master, you probably have bubbles in it and also bleed the brakes regularly.  You'll occasionally find a bubble.

#6 davew Posted 07-28-2015 10:04 AM

Veteran Member

• 2,297 posts
• Location: Beloit, Wi
• Region: Chicago
• Car Number: 72

If you have used pads in the car, try a set of brand new pads. Any tapered wear will result in flexing of the caliper when the vac. assist is working. You won't notice it without the engine running.

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#7 Tom Hampton Posted 07-28-2015 10:34 AM

Egregious Member

• 2,060 posts
• Location: Mckinney, tx
• Region: South west
• Car Year: 1992
• Car Number: 41

I see the same thing when the front pads get below 50% wear, which gets progressively longer as the pads continue to wear.  I've seen the same thing with both PFC97 and DTC-60 pads. 

I measure my pads as part of post-event inspection and do not measure any taper within the limits of my measuring devices (fore-aft, nor top-bottom).  I have only minor inner-outer wear differential (~0.010 for a 3 day weekend). 

I actually set the brake/gas pedal heights based on my minimum allowable on-track thickness. Once upon a time (before I did that) I had a couple scary moments on track when the pedal got long and I caught the gas-pedal in a threshold braking zone coming down from the top of 4th to a low-2nd gear haripin. I blew the braking zone the first time and ended up 4-off at a much elevated speed, and didn't know why. There was plenty of run-off, so no harm done (except to my pride). The same thing happened on the next lap, but I was more aware and realized  that I caught the throttle. I broke early that lap so, I was able to keep it on track.  After that, I elevated the brake pedal with spacers so that the two pedals were co-planar even in that configuration.  IIRC, brand new pads leaves the brake pedal ~1 inch higher than the throttle, which does not cause any heel-toe issues for me. 

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#8 Erik Hardy Posted 07-28-2015 01:11 PM

I forgot to mention that my pads were also tapered pretty badly. They didn't look tapered when they were on the caliper but it was very apparent after I pulled them off.

#9 Diller Posted 07-28-2015 01:48 PM

I'll put on the new pads this afternoon and report back. I'll measure the pad taper as well. The pads I am using are DTC-60s front and rear. So far I have four race weekends on this set of pads and with as much meat is left on them, I thought I could get a whole season on them.

#10 Tom Hampton Posted 07-28-2015 01:54 PM

You're easier on your DT-60's than I am, I guess.  I get about 3 race weekends including the test-day out of my DTC-60s. 

#11 Diller Posted 07-29-2015 07:25 AM

Ok I swapped in new pads and measured all the pads for taper. First off, the pedal is better. I wish it was stone hard without moving but I'll take what I can get. I drove into the shop at speed and was able to lock up all 4 tires. Besides being educational, it was fun and I have some nice tire streaks on the floor that add to the the decoration. Yeah I know, I should have had the go-pro running.

7 out of 8 pads had a taper of 0.5mm and one had a taper of 1mm. All pads measured between 10 and 11.5mm thick (including backing plate. They all have a bunch of meat still on them so I may try to find some shims to keep using them. I would attribute the taper to sticking slider pins and calipers that I just fixed. Some of the calipers were rather tough to get the piston out with compressed air.

#12 davew Posted 07-29-2015 09:32 AM

The biggest issue is getting the tapers mixed up. If the pads get a taper this way // and you put them back in this way^. The caliper will flex to make up the air gap when you push the pedal. Then completely retract as the pads push the piston back too far. Resulting in a long pedal.

Tom, I think you are getting kick back. learn to "test" the pedal before each corner.

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Long Brake Pedal Travel

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Hi guys, Just wondering if anyone has any ideas on this problem. Basically I had my car sitting on axle stands for about two weeks waiting to get my coilovers swapped over. Yesterday I got them fitted but for some reason the brake pedal now sinks almost to the floor when braking. The brakes were fantastic and instant before. Have only tried braking from about 10mph as I have no confidence the car will stop if going faster. The car does stop eventually, and if I sit stationary and pump the brakes it does stiffen up like it should. As far as I can see there's no apparent leaks, although haven't given it a thorough investigation yet, and the fluid isn't disappearing from the resevoir. I was concerned i'd bashed a brake line/hose and burst/cracked it, but if that was the case then fluid would be disappearing right? I *think* I can hear whirring from one of the rears, but i'm not sure why a stuck caliper or something would cause the pedal to sink? Does anyone have any ideas before I go outside, jack it up, and start scratching my head? Cheers  

I think there is a bubble of air probably somewhere in the system, but I've got no idea how it would get there.  

Sounds like air in the system so you need to bleed it. New fluid will make a lot of difference but you may have trouble with the bleed nipples. If they haven't been cracked in a long time and you are hasty you can round them or shear them and then you will need new callipers. It's worth investing in the best spanner you can afford and Plus Gas or other easing fluid. WD40 won't do it. Brakes are the most important safety feature on the car so you won't want to take chances with them. Good luck.  

Makes sense, just don't understand how air would've got into the system when I didn't do any brake related work and they were perfect before.  

Odd sort of an introductory post, but did you have the stands supporting the body and the wheels hanging with no stress? If so, my thought is a brake hose is either slightly loose, or possibly dry rotted enough that the stress of being extended for such a long time allowed air to enter. I'd check all four corners and inspect and repair as required.  

Yeah the stands were on the body so the hubs were hanging down. I am concerned I nipped/pulled/kinked a line, already got stainless ones on, so i've bought some spare stainless ones just in case. Also bought two refurbed front calipers incase it was a sticky piston issue. Between the new front calipers, lines, and a bleed I think the only logical thing left to me would be the handbrake adjusters on the rear or something. Considering how crap the stopping power was though I really think the fronts were stuck and I was only using the rears. Fingers crossed.  

Have you been driving a modern car in the last 2 weeks? If so, your brakes will likely feel they're doing nothing by comparison. Has your car been garaged or outside? If it's outside, it's probably corrosion on the discs. Use the brakes to clean the discs up. My car's like it when I've washed it and rinsed the wheels with the hose. I would say bleed the brakes before you go spending money, but it sounds like you've near on bought a new braking system already. Still, bleed the brakes first and work methodically to isolate what your issue was.  

Yeah been driving a modern car but the mx5's brakes were always better than the Ibiza's. Went to bleed the brakes, started to undo the rear bleed nipple, 'Oh yay it's turning!' I thought, until it snapped clean off. Sooo in keeping with the RickyG school of fixing a problem I seem to be just buying my way around the problem. Two refurbed rear calipers on the way. When's payday!? Had a mate round who's a mechanic and had a chat about what the problem might be. Have narrowed it down in our minds to me probably pulling/nicking a brake line whilst levering the hubs about or something. Maybe just didn't notice a small spurt of fluid on the wet floor. So fingers crossed in a couple of days i'll have new calipers, lines and fluid all round and that should fix it.  

If you sit with pressure on the pedal, does it drop totally to the carpet? If it doesn't you don't have a leak. From your initial post, it would appear it doesn't drop, though I presume you didn't sit and hold pressure for say.....30 seconds.  

This may well not be a issue with you calipers or air in the system, especially if you don't see any leaks. We have come across this before after changing suspension, rust and crap gets inbetween the rear of the brake disc and the hub face. The disc is then not flat anymore and pushes the pads open at slow speeds, hence the long pedal. At higher speeds it would wobble the steering wheel a little or judder if you pumped the pedal and braked hard. Check behind the brake discs where they meet the hub face, clean any crud out.  

I'm fairly certain this was the issue. Before putting everything together I took the discs off and there was a good chunk of crap compressed onto the inside of the disc face meaning the disc didn't spin straight.  

I'm going with the porous/damaged brake lines or connections myself, it looks like MK1's don't have any sort of Weight transfer/Brake effort proportional valve.. that wouldn't like the suspension being extended for long periods either. It might even be the seals in the Master Cylinder and the jacking is a coincidence. Take the cap off and put a rag/assistant there, one at a time push back the calliper's pistons (Your hugest flattest long screwdriver with a cloth over it and 'Delicate Force') and then thoroughly inspect/bleed the whole system one corner at a time, starting at the back, check the Handbrake too (these always get crudded up, especially in Scotland..). This will show any probs up quite quickly and cheaply. Use brand new, top quality fluid. If you can't get a firm pedal with freeing up, new rear callipers/bleeding and it's bone dry, suspect the Master Cylinder. Here's the manual: http://www.mellens.n...disc_brakes.pdf Which MX5 ever had drums fitted?? None of them.. strange 'disc and drum' manual but it's all there. How are the pipes to the Vacuum power assistance too?  

What year is your car? There is a Proportioning valve..  

1996. Think there is a valve.  

The symptoms don't obviously point to anything else but you can't diagnose which corner has air in by seeing which wheel turns. Pressure is distrubuted equally throughout a hydraulic system under static conditions. If one wheel does by chance turn, it's a sticking piston or slider and nothing to do with trapped air - the line pressure behind that piston would be the same as at the other side.  

Where do you guys buy your blue 'racing' brake fluid? I've not tried it before and want to give it a go.  

Eurocarparts (usually when they have one of their regular 25% off promotions). Free delivery. http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/auxiliary-fluids/brake-fluid/?130339010&0&cc5_179  

Cheers matey  

Just ordered 2l with 30% off so works out at just over £10 a litre. Cheap! Offer ends this weekend peeps, use offer code 'service30'  

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Mazda Miata Pulsating Brake Pedal. Causes + How to Fix

If you own a Mazda Miata, you may have experienced a pulsating brake pedal while driving. This phenomenon can be caused by a variety of issues, ranging from simple to complex. In this article, we will explore the common causes of a pulsating brake pedal in Mazda Miatas, as well as some tips for troubleshooting and resolving the issue.

The pulsating brake pedal in your Mazda Miata can result from various factors, with the most frequent cause being warped or unevenly worn brake rotors.

The inconsistent rotor surface in the brake rotors can lead to inconsistencies in brake pad contact, subsequently causing pulsations.

Issues with the brake calipers, wheel bearings, or suspension components may also cause your Taocom’s brake pedal to pulsate.

Why A Brake Pedal Might Pulsate When Braking

There are a few potential causes for brake pedal pulsation. Here are the most common ones:

Warped Rotors (Most Common Reason)

One of the most common reasons is warped brake rotors. As you apply the brakes, the brake pads clamp down on these rotors, which creates friction and slows down your vehicle.

Over time, the heat generated can cause the rotors to warp, leading to inconsistent contact between the brake pad and rotor.

It could be one or all the rotors that are warped. If your Miata has discs on each wheel, start with the driver’s side front wheel. That’s the rotor that usually wears the fastest.

After that, check the passenger side rotor.

Worn Brake Pads

Another possible cause of a pulsating brake pedal in the Mazda Miata is uneven brake pad wear. If you neglect to replace your brake pads, they might eventually start to wear unevenly, possibly due to debris or caliper issues.

This uneven wear can create an imbalance when braking, resulting in pedal pulsation. Regular brake maintenance, including replacing brake pads when needed, can help prevent this issue.

Additionally, brake caliper issues can result in pulsating brakes. The calipers hold your brake pads and squeeze them against the rotors when you press the brake pedal.

If the calipers don’t release properly when you release the brake pedal, they can cause the pads to drag on the rotors, leading to pulsation.

Other (Not as Common) Causes

There could be various reasons behind your Mazda Miata’s brake pedal pulsation. Understanding these causes is crucial for timely and effective solutions. This section will discuss a few possible reasons that can lead to brake pedal pulsation in your Mazda Miata.

Wheel Bearings

Another possibility is  loose or worn wheel bearings . When these components wear out or become loose, they can cause excessive vibration or movement in your Miata’s suspension system.

This, in turn, can lead to brake pedal pulsation. Inspecting and replacing the wheel bearings may resolve the issue.

Incorrect Brake Job

In some cases,  improper brake pad installation  could be the culprit behind brake pedal pulsation in your Mazda Miata.

If the brake pads are not correctly installed or aligned, they might not make even contact with the rotors, resulting in a pulsating sensation.

Ensure that your brake pads are installed by a professional or follow the proper installation procedures when doing it yourself.

Lastly,  tire imbalance or alignment issues  can contribute to brake pedal pulsation. If your tires are unbalanced or your vehicle’s alignment is off, it can generate vibrations that you might feel in your brake pedal.

In such cases, balancing your tires and vehicle alignment can help rectify the problem.

Remember, while these are some common causes of brake pedal pulsation in your Mazda Miata, it is vital to consult a professional mechanic for precise diagnosis and repair recommendations tailored to your vehicle.

How to Detect Pulsation

Here are a few guidelines that will help you determine if your Mazda Miata is experiencing brake pedal pulsation.

Firstly, pay close attention to the behavior of your brake pedal while driving. If you feel a slight vibration or shaking when you press the brake pedal, it signals that there could be an issue with your brake system. This sensation will likely increase as you apply more pressure to the brakes .

Next, notice the speed at which the pulsation occurs. Brake pulsation is often more noticeable at higher speeds . If you start to feel the vibration when you apply the brakes while traveling at highway speeds, this could indicate a problem with your brake rotors.

Pedal travel

Another vital factor to consider is brake pedal travel. If your Mazda Miata’s brake pedal has too much travel or feels soft when you press it, this may also be a sign of pulsation. This could be caused by uneven wear on the rotor surfaces or brake pad deposits on the rotors.

Safety Risks Associated

A pulsating brake pedal in your Mazda Miata can pose several safety risks. First and foremost, it may cause a degradation in braking performance.

The uneven pressure applied to the brakes can result in longer stopping distances, increasing the chances of a collision.

In addition, inconsistent braking may cause your vehicle to pull to one side, compromising your control and stability while driving.

Preventive Measures

Regular maintenance of your Mazda Miata can help prevent brake pedal from pulsating. Here are some steps you can take to keep your brakes in good condition and minimize the risk of pulsating:

• Inspect your brake pads regularly : Check your brake pads for signs of wear, such as thinning or uneven wear patterns. Replace your brake pads if they are less than 1/4 inch thick or if you notice uneven wear.
• Replace your brake rotors : If your rotors are warped or damaged, it may also cause brake pedal to pulsate. Replace your rotors to ensure proper contact between the rotors and brake pads.
• Clean your brake components : Keep your brake components clean by wiping them down with a damp cloth or using a brake cleaner spray. This will help remove any dirt, grease, or other contaminants that can cause your brake pedal to pulsate.
• Bleed your brakes : Bleeding your brakes helps to remove air bubbles from your brake lines which can contribute to brake pedal pulsation. You can do this by having a professional mechanic perform a brake fluid flush or by doing it yourself using a brake bleeder kit.
• Maintain your tires : Proper tire maintenance can also help prevent brake pedal pulsating. Make sure your tires are properly inflated, rotated regularly, and have sufficient tread to grip the road.

By following these preventive measures, you can help reduce the likelihood of experiencing brake pedal pulsation in your Mazda Miata and ensure smooth, consistent stopping power.

Steps in Fixing Pulsating Brake Pedal

Having a pulsating brake pedal in your Mazda Miata can be annoying and potentially dangerous. Here are some steps to help you diagnose and fix the issue:

• Identify the cause : First, you need to determine the cause of the pulsation. Common reasons include warped brake rotors, uneven brake pad wear, or a malfunctioning ABS system.
• Inspect your brakes : Park your Miata on a safe, level surface, and with the engine off, check your brake system. Look for signs of wear or damage on the brake pads, rotors, and calipers. Be sure to inspect both front and rear brakes.
• Resurfacing rotors: If the rotor thickness is within the manufacturer’s specifications, you can resurface the rotors to provide a smooth braking surface. Ensure that this is done evenly and to the correct specifications.
• Replacing the brake pads: The brake pads need to be replaced when they are worn, cracked, or damaged. Install high-quality brake pads compatible with your Miata, and ensure that they are properly seated against the rotors.
• ABS malfunction : If the ABS system is the cause of the pulsating brake pedal, you may need to consult a professional or refer to your vehicle’s service manual for specific diagnostic steps and possible repair procedures. This might involve checking the wheel speed sensors, ABS pump, and ABS module for faults.
• Bleed the brake system : Air bubbles trapped in the brake fluid can result in a spongy or pulsating brake pedal. To fix this issue, bleed the brake system by following the appropriate procedure in your Miata’s service manual. This typically involves pumping the brake pedal, opening the brake bleeder valve, allowing the air and brake fluid to escape until no more bubbles are visible, and then closing the valve. Be sure to use the correct brake fluid specified for your vehicle and top up the reservoir if needed.
• Test drive : Once you’ve completed the necessary repairs, take your Miata for a test drive to ensure that the pulsating brake pedal issue has been resolved. Pay close attention to the brake pedal feel and overall braking performance. If the problem persists, you may want to consult a professional mechanic for further assistance.

Prolonging Brake System Life

To prolong your Mazda Miata’s brake system life, there are a few crucial maintenance steps you can take. Keeping up with these practices will ensure optimal braking performance and help prevent brake pedal pulsation.

1. Check and replace brake pads as needed:  Regularly inspect your brake pads to assess their wear. Replace them when they reach approximately 3mm in thickness to prevent damage to the rotors.

2. Schedule regular brake fluid changes:  Over time, brake fluid can absorb moisture, which can cause components to corrode. Changing your brake fluid every two years or 30,000 miles prevents this corrosion, ensuring a long-lasting brake system.

3. Keep an eye on your rotors:  Rotors are subjected to high heat and friction, which can lead to warping and inconsistencies over time. If you notice signs of wear, such as grooves or uneven surfaces, consider resurfacing or replacing the rotors.

4. Respect the break-in period:  New components, such as brake pads and rotors, need time to wear-in until they deliver optimal performance. During the first 300 to 500 miles, avoid sudden and hard braking to ensure proper settling of the new components.

5. Monitor tire pressure:  Maintaining correct tire pressure ensures even contact with the road, which contributes to even brake wear. Check your tire pressure at least once a month and adjust as needed.

6. Keep an ear out for brake noise:  Unusual or persistent brake noise can signal a problem with your brake system. If you hear squeaking, grinding, or other unusual noises, have your brake system inspected by a professional.

Following these steps will help extend the life of your Mazda Miata’s brake system, improve braking performance, and reduce the likelihood of brake pedal pulsation. Remember that regular maintenance is key to keeping your vehicle running smoothly and safely.

In conclusion, the Mazda Miata pulsating brake pedal is a common issue that can be caused by a variety of factors. The most common causes are worn brake pads, warped rotors, and air bubbles in the brake lines. To resolve this issue, it is important to inspect and replace the brake pads and rotors, and to flush and refill the brake fluid. Following these steps should ensure that your Mazda Miata is running smoothly and safely.

Pagid Spec Miata Brake Pads (NA 1.8/NB)

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PAGID Race Pad Fitting Instructions The new brake pads must move freely in their guides. If necessary remove paint from the contact faces. Delayed release and taper wear can occur if pads do not have enough clearance. The outer radius of the friction material must align with the brake disc’s outer radius. Especially with custom made uprights (knuckles) or custom made caliper mounting brackets very often pads do not align properly with the brake disc. It is advisable to place a note at the steering wheel to let the driver know new pads had been installed. Never lay   hot   pads up side down i.e. with the friction material onto the ground unless you throw them away anyway. Asphalt, rubber, oil etc. can melt into the friction material. PAGID Racing Brake Pad Bedding If pads do not get bedded properly and / or used to hard right out of the box will likely lead to pad glazing. Pad glazing is a condition where the resins in the pad crystallize on both, the pad friction surface and the brake disc surface, resulting in poor stopping performance, brake judder and vibrations. Also rapidly escaping volatile elements and moisture from the resin would seek an immediate escape route out of the friction compound, creating small fissures that would lead shortly to cracking and chunking. Heat Cracks in Racing Brake Pads and Discs Multiple small heat cracks (hairline cracks) are normal and accepted for this type of use. Heat cracks on brake discs must not reach to the outer or inner edge of the disc.

Racing Brake Pads and Humidity When washing the car we recommend removing race brake pads or driving the car after washing and apply the brakes a few times in order to dry the brake pads. Water and even humidity of the air can slightly alter the friction behavior of racing brake pads. Some pro race teams use “storage” or “transport” pads and store the real race pads in a Zip-Lock bag until their next race.

Avoiding Brake Judder During bedding and shortly after, some judder is quite normal but should disappear after 5 to 10 laps. Changing back and forth between two incompatible friction materials (e.g. racing brake pads of different brands or street pads) can cause uneven build-up of pad material on the disc surface and can consequently lead to brake judder. Judder is the result of a thickness variation in pad buildup on the disc surface. Brake judder can be from a barely noticeable vibration to a violent judder. When you install Pagid race pads on top of a layer of an incompatible pad material, bedding might take much longer or in worst case won't work at all. It can also result in sub-optimal brake performance. Another reason for uneven pad transfer is called 'imprinting'. After coming to a complete stop with hot brakes (in the pits or after a spin), do not keep your foot on the brake pedal. The hot pads can leave a deposit behind that in turn again can cause judder and vibrations. Bigger vs Smaller Pad A larger friction surface will not improve stopping power. The amount of pressure applied, coefficient of friction and the disc diameter determine stopping force. A bigger pad does not apply more pressure, only the same pressure over a bigger area. The size of the pad matters in terms of heat capacity and wear rate. A larger pad will absorb more initial heat and has better wear characteristics. Pad Fade vs Brake Fluid Fade 1.) pad fade When the temperature at the interface between the pad and the disc exceeds the thermal capacity of the pad, the pad loses friction capability mainly due to out-gassing of binder (matrix) materials in the pad compound. The brake pedal remains firm and solid but the car will not stop no matter how hard you push on the pedal. The first indication is a distinctive smell, a signal to back off. Solutions: better cooling, higher mass brake discs size and vane configuration or higher heat range pad compound. 2.) fluid fade Boiling brake fluid develops gas bubbles in the calipers. The brake pedal becomes soft and pedal travel increases (because gas is compressible). One can still stop the car by pumping the pedal but efficient modulation is gone. This is a gradual process with advanced warning. The damaged fluid must be completely replaced. Correcting the problem is improved cooling and / or may only require new or higher grade racing brake fluid. The importance of keeping fresh brake fluid in the system and regular bleeding (before every session) cannot be overstressed. Watch The Temps! It is highly recommended that brake temperatures are being monitored. Three temperature brake paints or similar products should be used. Ideally, the green paint (430°C / 806°F) should be completely oxidized (turns white), the orange paint (560°C / 1040°F) should be symmetrically beginning to oxidize and the red paint (610°C / 1130°F) should be un-touched or change only slightly. Caliper temperatures can be monitored with temperature strips. Checking the temperatures in the pit lane with a thermometer is a good way to oversee brake bias.

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Brake master cylinder brace, ND

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Description.

Under hard braking, the firewall will actually deform, allowing the brake pedal, booster and master cylinder to move. Yes, even on the ND Miatas. This flex takes away some of your brake pedal stiffness and makes it more difficult to balance the car on the edge of lockup because there's essentially a big spring in the system. You'll find your braking will be more precise and will require less pedal travel.

This simple brace bolts into your Miata and keeps the master cylinder right where it's supposed to be. It's adjustable for a perfect fit. At under two pounds, the brace is able to reduce firewall deflection by 85% under heavy braking.

For left-hand drive cars only! Compatible with factory shock tower braces. It is not compatible with the Fiat 124 Spyder as it interferes with the coolant bottle.

Cars equipped with our CAN integration kit for the Hush-o-Matic exhaust that came with a short (2" long) solenoid mounting bracket will require the new, longer (3" long) bracket. That can be purchased separately (will be available shortly).

Instructions

What does it fit.

Fits: 2016, 2017, 2017 RF, 2018, 2018 RF, 2019, 2019 RF, 2020, 2020 RF, 2021, 2021 RF, 2022, 2022 RF

Emissions do not apply.

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SuperMiata 1″ Wilwood Master Cylinder kit

From: $ 153.00

Available options:

Version Version

Master cylinder master cylinder, 500ml dot4 motul rbf600 fluid 500ml dot4 motul rbf600 fluid, wilwood brake proportion kit for miata wilwood brake proportion kit for miata, product description.

Supermiata 1″ Wilwood Brake Master Cylinder Kit

90-05 MX5 Miata (except 04-05 turbo)

This conversion kit is intended for use with modified brake systems using larger than stock rotors, and/or aftermarket calipers. Such brake upgrades can increase brake torque for a given pedal effort. Because of this extra braking power, one can use a larger bore master cylinder to reduce the needed pedal travel and still achieve good pedal feel & modulation.

OEM Miata master cylinder is 7/8″, Sport Brakes are 15/16″ bore. This 1″ master cylinder replaces the OEM master. You will trade slightly higher pedal effort for shorter pedal travel. Optional remote reservoirs allows for relocation away from turbo heat.

  Everything you need to complete your master cylinder conversion is included:

• 1″ piston tandem master cylinder
• Booster adapter plate
• Braided stainless lines for clean installation
• All necessary fitting and adapters

* Can be used on 04-05 Mazdaspeed turbo with (non-MSM) 01-05 Sport Booster * You must use a high-performance brake pad with this kit. Does not work with OEM or street-only type brake pads.

BRAKE FLUID SENSOR LIGHT – if your OEM master cylinder is equipped with a brake fluid level sensor, installing this kit will cause a warning light on the dash. You can purchase and install this cap from Wilwood . Requires cutting off the OEM connector and adding your own connectors, DIY only.

Instructions

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