cost to travel to madagascar

Madagascar Travel: 33 Things You Need to Know Before You Go

33 tips that will help you travel in Madagascar and make your time in this unique country so much more enjoyable. 

Table of Contents

These travel tips are aimed to help you prepare for an unforgettable journey to this bizarre “ Red Island !” Written by an adventurer who’s spent more than a year in Madagascar, it’s the real deal. 

The 33 recommendations below ( in violet ) are divided into 11 main sections ( in green ). This will make it easier for you to find the answers to a specific question.

HEALTH  AND  WELLNESS IN MADAGASCAR

Vaccinations to get before visiting madagascar.

• Visit a travel doctor well in advance. There are vaccinations you may need to be administered. These may take weeks to become effective. Refer to your vaccination records. Make sure you are up to date on the following: Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B, Meningitis, Polio, MMR, Tuberculosis (BCG) and/or Tetanus (DTP).
• You don’t need the Yellow Fever vaccine for Madagascar. However,  if you plan to travel in mainland Africa on your way there, you DO need it. You will also need to provide proof of administration upon entering Madagascar if they see African countries stamped into your passport within the past 6 months.

Malaria Prevention

• You should discuss a Malaria prophylaxis prescription with your doctor. This is especially true if you are travelling between September and May. This is Madagascar’s warmer, rainier season.
• Take every day – tetracycline antibiotic.
• Pros : Least expensive, used to treat many bacterial infections (ex: urinary tract infections) and tick-borne infections. A double dose can be used to treat Malaria if someone in your group contracts it.
• Cons : Side effects may include sensitivity to the sun, increased likelihood of vaginal yeast infections, and weakened gut microbial health.
• Suggestions : Doxycycline is the prophylaxis I prefer.  I just prepare for the side effects. I bring and use plenty of sunscreen and take probiotics to help my gut microbiome recover. Additionally, my doctor writes me a prescription for a burn cream (in case of sunburn), and treatment for yeast infections ( Fluconazole ).
• Take every day. It prevents the growth of parasites in red blood cells.
• Pros : Specific for malaria and also may be used for treatment.
• Cons : Relatively expensive. Its side effects may include mild stomach pain and diarrhea, headaches, difficulty sleeping, and vivid dreams.
• Take once a week. It prevents the growth of parasites in red blood cells.
• Pros : Don’t have to remember to take it every day.
• Cons : It. Has the most serious side effects. They include dizziness, severe anxiety, violent dreams, paranoia, hallucinations, depression. These nerve and psychiatric effects can sometimes last long after you stop the medication.
•  Insect repellents. In addition to long pants/sleeves, they are the obvious methods of limiting mosquito bites. But they also help prevent flea bites. The bubonic plague is still present in Madagascar. It’s seasonal and rare but is transmitted through flea bites.

First Aid and Medications While Travelling in Madagascar

• You should have antibiotics , such as Ciprofloxacin. It will be useful in the event that you get a bacterial infection.
• If your burps begin smelling like sulphur and rotten eggs, you likely contracted Giardia parasites. Otherwise known as traveller’s diarrhea from contaminated water or food. Acquiring a Flagyl (metronidazole) prescription and taking this treatment once the burps start can prevent Giardia from becoming much of a problem.
• Useful over-the-counter medications – antibacterial ointment (ex: Neosporin / bacitracin), Anti-diarrheal drugs (ex: Imodium A-D / loperamide), allergy medication (ex: Benadryl ), anti-inflammatory drugs / pain relievers (ex: Ibuprofen ), antacids (ex: TUMS or Pepto-Bismol ) and rehydration tablets. Most cities will have pharmacies, but drug names and doses will likely be in French. It’s much easier to bring your own.
• You can never bring too much hand sanitizer ! Sometimes there won’t be soap available. Or you may make a bathroom stop on the side of the road.  I also suggest rolls of toilet paper for the car. Our bodies aren’t familiar with the microbes in Madagascar. That makes it easier for us to get sick if we don’t remain mindful.
• Pack sunscreen and bug spray but check the ingredients list for harmful chemicals. If you’re planning to swim or snorkel in the ocean, please bring waterproof and “reef-safe” sunscreens that don’t include oxybenzone, butylparaben, or octinoxate that can bleach the corals!
• Menstrual supplies are limited and expensive in Madagascar. Women should bring their own.

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Travel Insurance

• Invest in travel insurance. Be sure that it doesn’t just cover cancelled flights, lost or stolen items, and unexpected medical expenses. But also includes emergency medical evacuation . Madagascar’s road conditions are poor. And the health care isn’t generally what Westerners are accustomed to. Typically, being medevacked is your best option if it’s something serious.

TRANSPORTATION TO AND IN MADAGASCAR

Flights to madagascar.

• If travelling from the United States: Air France and South African Air are usually the best airlines to limit the number of layovers. However, I have also used Etihad Airways, Turkish Air, and Ethiopian Air. They typically cost significantly less money. However, expect multiple and longer layovers. Check out Skyscanner to compare prices.
• You will more than likely fly into Ivato Airport (TNR). It’s located 20 km north of the capital, Antananarivo (Tana).
• Air Madagascar is the domestic airline. It can save you a lot of driving time for long distance, internal travel.

Personal Vehicles in Madagascar

• If you don’t want to fuss with the scheduling and frequent discomfort of public transportation, it’s easy to hire a driver and guide for your entire stay.
• I don’t suggest driving yourself. However, if you have an International Driver’s License and nerves of steel, it’s possible to rent a car.
• You will not need a 4WD vehicle if you are going south on RN7. However, you will need a 4 wheel drive for travelling west on RN5 and north.
• Make playlists, download podcasts, charge your Kindle, and be ready to spend a lot of time in the car. Even though Madagascar is almost twice the size of the UK, it has only 1% of the paved road length that the UK has.
• Bring motion sickness medication , such as Dramamine (dimenhydrinate), if you have even the slightest tendency to get car sick! The roads can be quite twisty and bumpy.
• It’s not advisable to travel at night. Many drivers will refuse to continue much past sunset. Listen to your drivers. Bandits only strike at night for the most part.

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Public Transportation in Madagascar

• Hired Taxi – like most cities across the globe, there will always be a taxi cab eager to assist you. The fare is negotiable and you should haggle. The taxi drivers are known to charge tourists highly inflated rates. 
• Taxi-Brousse are large vans with designated routes to almost anywhere in the country. They are the least expensive method of getting around. However, they generally aren’t comfortable, efficient, or particularly safe. It’s not uncommon to end up with a child or chicken in your lap. And if you’re carrying anything larger than a backpack, it will be tied to the roof. 
• Taxi-Be are almost identical to taxi-brousse, except taxi-be is the term used for the organized minibusses within major cities. Whereas taxi-brousse are generally used for travel between cities. 
• Cotisse – a transport company with minibusses similar to taxi-brousse. However, it’s higher end and much more comfortable. They always leave when scheduled instead of waiting until the car is full and packed. They also drive more carefully. And if you’re really lucky, you can connect to free WiFi. 
• Trains – there are over 1000 km of railroads tracks in the RNCFM Malagasy rail system. But it’s primarily used to transport cargo. There are only 6 routes with passenger trains. While travelling by train in Madagascar is a lovely way to see the country, they run notoriously late. 
• Cyclo-Pousse – a covered rickshaw cart fastened to a bicycle. They’re used in most major cities (though, not the capital). Pay the bike ‘driver’ a small fare (Ar 5000 or less), and they’ll bring you to your destination. With frequent traffic jams in major cities, they are often faster than a car .
• Tuk-Tuk – motorized three-wheeled rickshaws that hold three people and are almost always yellow. It is usually a flat fare, but the prices are quite reasonable (similar to cyclo-pousse).
• Charette – a wooden cart pulled by zebu cattle is the most common way of getting around in rural areas. There is no set price. Haggle for what you are willing to pay.
• In some coastal areas, especially the southwest and the northeast, the primary means of transportation is by cargo boats. Avoid them during rough seas and cyclone season (Jan-Mar).

Dugout canoes called pirogues are common for crossing rivers or for getting to the best snorkelling areas.

8. Flexibility is KEY When Travelling in Madagascar

Please remember to be flexible, patient, and respectful to your drivers and other Malagasy people you encounter.

Most Malagasy don’t like rushing. And in a country with limited resources, it’s easier to just go with the flow .

The Malagasy have a saying, “Mora Mora,” which translates to slow living and no worries.

They are going to be relaxed, and I promise that you will have much more fun if you relax too!

FOOD AND WATER IN MADAGASCAR

Filtered water.

• Lifestraw Go water filter bottles are legitimately a life saver. Especially if you are environmentally conscious or an avid hiker. If you don’t want to constantly be buying water bottles, you can fill your LifeStraw up with unfiltered tap water. Or if you’re on the trails … anywhere !This allows you to avoid starting hikes with 3+ litres of heavy water. I have even filled my Lifestraw in a warm and murky rice paddy during desperate times. I never felt any signs of sickness. Lifestraws are relatively prone to leaking and should be kept upright. But they are 100% worth the small investment!
• Avoid ice in your drinks unless you can guarantee that it was made with filtered water.

Food and Drink in Madagascar

• Sometimes there isn’t much variety in the cuisine. On the plus side, meals come at a fantastic value! The capital – Antananarivo – and touristy areas, especially along the coasts, will have more to offer. I’ve had some of the best meals of my life in Madagascar. Just be flexible during monotonous periods.
• Like with ice, avoid uncooked vegetables unless you’re certain they were washed with filtered water.
• I encourage everyone to try the “Ranonapango.” It’s essentially burnt rice tea. Although it’s not actual tea, it’s comforting and reminds me of popcorn… Rice is the cornerstone of the Malagasy diet. It’s the base of every meal, including breakfast.
• “Toka-gasy” is a Malagasy moonshine made with sugar cane. You could be offered a drink by a village King. It’s considered rude not to accept. However, do be aware that it is technically illegal. Though, not enforced because the alcohol content cannot be controlled. Some batches seem weak and others will knock you on your feet!
• It’s a good idea to bring protein bars . Especially if you have dietary restrictions (such as vegetarian or vegan) and/or plan on long hikes.
• Here’s some additional info on local food and what to expect.

LANGUAGE IN MADAGASCAR

• Brush up on your French.  Madagascar was once a French colony.  French is still one of the official languages.
• Many signs and restaurant menus will be in French.
• Most prices will be told to you in French. It will be beneficial to at least learn your numbers .
• Try learning simple Malagasy phrases. The locals sincerely appreciate when you invest time and interest in their native language. For starters, “ Salama ” means hello.  “ Veloma ” means goodbye!
• Malagasy people are more inclined to be open and friendly with people who aren’t from France. So don’t feel like you should become fluent in French!
• There are a few Malagasy/English handbooks available if you’re interested in languages. Malagasy is a tough language to learn until you’re immersed, especially the pronunciations! This short video of a few keywords in Malagasy with pronunciations will get you started. 

MONEY IN MADAGASCAR

Malagasy currency.

• The currency in Madagascar is called Ariary (MGA)
• Ar 4000 = 1 EUR
• Ar 4600 = 1 GBP
• Ar 2500 = 1 AUD
• Ar 250 =  1 ZAR
• The largest bill – Ar 20,000 – is equivalent to less than 6 USD. However, it’s considered substantial to most Malagasy. You’ll want a safe money bag or belt because you will be carrying many more bills than you are used to.
• The Ariary notes changed in 2017. Therefore, there are two designs for every bill, excluding the Ar 20,000. The Ar10,000 was the largest bill until 2017.

Access to Cash and Using Credit Cards in Madagascar

• To exchange your currency into Ariary, bring relatively large and new bills. They shouldn’t be older than 2010. It will be easiest for you to exchange your currency right at the airport. That way you’ll avoid the long lines and limited hours of banks. I find this to be the easiest way to access money.
• Credit and Debit cards. Some places in cities accept cards, but only VISA is reliable. Other networks like MasterCard and AmEx often won’t work. Honestly, it is best to carry cash !
• ATMs are only available in big cities. And there’s a limit to how much you can take out. Also, it’s not uncommon for ATMs to be out of order or empty.

Begging in Madagascar

• You will have people begging you for money. Especially children, mothers, the elderly, and the disabled. I would be lying if I said it wasn’t difficult to witness. But it’s unavoidable, especially in big cities.
• Everyone is entitled to their own opinions on how to handle these situations. But do acknowledge that your actions will impact more than just the beggar. Begging is not a sustainable way to make a living.
• If you decide to give, be tactful about it. Don’t flash large wads of cash. And understand that successful beggars often return with friends. To avoid being surrounded and causing a scene, wait until you are about to get back into your vehicle.
• I generally only give to those performing – sometimes people sing, dance, or play an instrument. And I never give to overly pushy people. I don’t want them thinking that’s the way they should approach all tourists.
• When giving money, I keep it discrete and politely urge them to use it for food.

Tipping in Madagascar

• Tips are generally well received and deeply appreciated. They’re sometimes it’s your biggest daily expenditures. Especially if you’re on a guided tour where most expenses are paid for ahead of time.
• When you can break large bills into smaller bills for tipping. Keep these tips in a separate pocket from the majority of your cash.
• To offer you a perspective, Malagasy people who are fortunate enough to be employed typically don’t make more than Ar 200,000 (~$56 USD) a month .
• If you want to keep your tips within the average range of other tourists, roughly follow the guide below. However, you are welcome to give more. Especially with guides and drivers. But only if they exceeded your expectations.
• Taxis and bars : Not expected or small bills.
• Porters : small bills, likely not over Ar 1000.
• Restaurants : 5% of the bill or less.
• Guides : 10% of the fee.
• Personal Drivers : Ar 5000 – Ar 20000 a day.

PACKING FOR MADAGASCAR

• Bring more warm clothes than you would think necessary. This includes thermals, hat, gloves, and fleece. Especially if you are travelling during Madagascar’s winter months (May – September).
• However, the climate throughout Madagascar changes rapidly . While the cool rainforest fog may send shivers down your spine in the morning, you can jump in the car and find yourself in a desert ecosystem by late afternoon. Therefore, you will want to pack a variety of clothing. Be sure to bring shorts, T-shirts, and durable sandals.
• If you plan on hiking , you should pack quick-drying field pants, sturdy hiking boots , wool socks, a baseball cap, and a rain jacket. While hiking in rainforests, I advise tucking your pants into your socks and your shirt into your pants to minimize leech bites. Leeches don’t transmit diseases, their bites don’t hurt, and they only remain attached for about half an hour. However, they do have an anticoagulant in their saliva. This causes you to continue bleeding even after they drop off. And these bites can itch worse than mosquito bites. Take precautions but don’t panic if you get a leech.
• I also recommend a substantial daypack with a supportive waist belt and chest strap. This could double as your carry-on luggage for the flight!
• Don’t forget bathing suits ! Beaches aren’t the only places to swim; some parks have natural swimming holes you can hike to.

Travel Documents For Madagascar

• Your passport cannot expire within 6 months of entry and must have at least 3 blank pages. They are strict about this!
• Carry your immunization records. They may not be requested if you haven’t been in countries with Yellow Fever.
• If you’re travelling with a large group, it’s beneficial to obtain your Madagascar VISA within your home country. Otherwise, it’s easy to purchase a tourist VISA upon arrival at the airport for 30, 60, or 90 days.
• I prefer to have paper photocopies of my passport and tourist Visa. The police will occasionally ask to see your passport, especially in cities and on the road, but I don’t like carrying it wherever I go.

Power in Madagascar

• Bring European plug adaptors if necessary: 220 Volt, 50Hz AC (Two circular metal pins).
• Charged power banks are invaluable, especially considering the amount of travel time. If you need your phone to stay alive for the entire day, I would bring a power bank or two.

General Equipment

• Pack binoculars for lemur and bird watching! If you’re concerned about them occupying souvenir space in your suitcase, donate them to a deserving park guide near the end of your journey. Malagasy guides are often in need of functioning binoculars.
• Bring a bright headlamp and/or flashlight for night hikes. There are nocturnal lemurs, chameleons, frogs, snakes, geckos and so many other creatures you don’t want to miss!
• Wristwatches are convenient for checking the time. I t might not always be a good time to pull out your phone.
• All sizes of Ziplock bags are precious. Smaller bags can organize your medications and chargers; medium bags can keep your electronics and books dry; large bags are perfect for wet or dirty laundry.
• I recommend silica gel packets and dry bags for your electronics and camera if you’re spending an extended time in humid, rainforest environments.
• Remember the items mentioned in previous sections : medications, hand sanitizer, sunscreen, LifeStraw water bottle , protein bars, bills to exchange, designated money bag, VISA credit/debit cards, etc.

THINGS TO BE  MINDFUL  OF IN MADAGASCAR…

Internet and phones.

• Most hotels have complimentary WiFi. However, even luxury hotels don’t always have internet or outlets in individual rooms/bungalows. Sometimes you have to sit in the reception area for internet access and charging. WiFi is available in some restaurants, but you will need to ask for the password.
• If you have an unlocked GSM cellphone, you may want to buy a local SIM card (Airtel, Orange, or Telma) and a 3G package. You can do this at the airport. If you don’t want to purchase a plan, you can buy phone credit at virtually any shop.  

Cultural Awareness in Madagascar

• Avoid pointing with only your index finger extended. While it’s not considered offensive everywhere in Madagascar, it’s better to be safe than sorry. Pointing with your index finger is considered a “ fady ” or taboo in many regions of Madagascar. Especially when pointing directly at a tomb or grave. You can either gesture with your whole hand open, or bend your finger as you point.
• It is expected to haggle prices unless the price is already established, such as in tourist shops, restaurants, and hotels. It’s part of the culture.
• It’s respectful to dress fairly modestly . You’ll see everything in tourist areas. However,  I personally avoid low cut tops, short skirts and shorts. And I only wear one-piece swimsuits.
• While difficult to ignore their puppy-dog stares, don’t feed street dogs . Malagasy people can view it as highly offensive that you took the time and money to feed a dog, but not their family.
• Most Malagasy actively avoid confrontation, especially with foreigners. Don’t take advantage of this.

Saying “Thank You” in Madagascar

• In Malagasy, “ Misaotra ” means thank you. Add “betsaka” if you want to say, “thank you very much.”  
• If you anticipate any village visits, a gift that would be appreciated by everyone is a high-quality soccer ball . I always bring several deflated soccer balls and an air pump from the States.
• You’ll probably become close with your driver and guide. In addition to a tip, you may want to thank them with foreign gifts . A T-shirt representing your city or country, candy from abroad, or something else they wouldn’t find in Madagascar are the most cherished gifts.

PHOTOGRAPHY IN MADAGASCAR

Keep your camera close.

• If you have a DSLR camera, keep is safe, but don’t be afraid to bring it . There are countless sites and creatures to document that small cameras and phones just can’t capture.
• Keep all valuables close, especially in big cities like the capital of Antananarivo (Tana). I wouldn’t worry about being attacked. However, there are some skilled pick-pocketers. They can swipe your cash, phone, or other items without you even noticing.
• Just as you would back home, ask before taking someone’s picture. If you don’t speak French, saying “ Sary? ” (pronounced similarly to the English, “sorry”) – which means “Picture?” in Malagasy, should sufficiently get the point across.
• Adults will occasionally wave you off, but kids love to pose. You should show them their picture. But remember to wipe down your camera with a disinfectant afterward. The kids may excitedly grab your camera for a closer look with their cute, but dirty little hands.  

Selfies in Madagascar

• NEVER pay to take pictures with wildlife kept at restaurants or hotels.
• Paying for these photos encourages the illegal and devastating pet trade. One of the reasons lemurs are endangered .
• Many of these animals, especially lemurs, don’t survive these conditions. If they don’t die from a poor diet, they may be killed when they display aggression as they become sexually mature. The “Magic of Madagascar Ecotour” will take you to one of the only rescue centers in Madagascar that confiscates pet lemurs and teaches them how to survive the wild.

SOUVENIR SHOPPING IN MADAGASCAR

Avoid purchasing….

• Carvings made from precious woods like Rosewood and Palisander
• Butterflies and other preserved insects
• Sea turtle shells
• Sapphires, other precious gemstones, and gold

    28. Ethical Shopping

• Aim for sustainable gifts that don’t negatively impact wildlife or people while simultaneously expressing Malagasy culture.
• My main suggestions include… hand-dyed and spun silk scarves woven from sustainably farmed silk, items made out of recycled aluminium, and art constructed from repurposed zebu horns.

EXCLUSIVE  TRAVEL EXPERIENCES IN MADAGASCAR

Places to visit in madagascar.

• RN7 is your best friend.  This route starts at the capital and works its way south, then slowly west. It is accessible year-round and brings you through every incredible ecosystem Madagascar has to offer! That’s the route that we take on our Ecotour through Madagascar from July 1st – 12th, 2019!  
• RN5 takes you west to see the “ Alley of Baobabs ” or possibly even the limestone forest of Tsingy ! This road is more difficult to navigate. It’s comical that it can even be considered a national route.
• The north is also beautiful, but similar to the west, the roads are very poor, especially as you work your way west. 
• There are stunning places that are easiest to fly to, such as the rainforest peninsula of Masoala and the island of scuba-divers dreams – Nosy Be .

   30. Wildlife You CANNOT Miss in Madagascar!

• “The Magic of Madagascar Ecotour” brings you to the largest species of lemur (indri) and the smallest lemur (mouse lemur), with many lemur species and sizes in between!

If you love Madagascar as much as we do, you’ll love our lemur t-shirts:

This meditating lemur t-shirt is the perfect gift for the animal lover in your life whether it be your wife, husband, sister, brother, best friend, son or daughter. It looks great with jeans and is perfect for a casual day out.

This t-shirt with words about lemurs is perfect for animal lovers – who want to show their love for ring-tailed lemurs and to raise awareness about this endangered species – see how many words related to lemurs you can find.

This ring-tailed lemur t-shirt will be a hit with animal lovers who want to show their love for these unique creatures while raising awareness about these critters from Madagascar who need our help.

ADDITIONAL  MADAGASCAR  INFORMATION

• Films and Books about Madagascar
• If you are keen to learn more about the creatures and culture before going or booking a ticket to Madagascar, I recommend either of the following  films :  Planet Earth II  (on Netflix) and  Island of Lemurs: Madagascar  (IMAX) .  
• Additionally, I recommend the following  books :  For the Love of Lemurs  (Patricia Wright);  Thank You, Madagascar  (Alison Jolly);  The Aye-Aye and I   (Gerald Durrell); and  Madagascar – The Eighth Continent   (Peter Tyson).
• Field Guides for Madagascar
• There are good field guides available for most  taxonomic groups  in Madagascar. I have personally had the best luck with  Lemurs of Madagascar: Third Edition  and  Birds of Madagascar and the Indian Ocean Islands . Note: if you can’t find that check out  Lemurs of Madagascar: Tropical Field Guide Series .
• For travel guides, the  Bradt Guides   are probably the best guide I have come across. The author has been travelling to Madagascar for over 30 years!  The Lonely Planet – Madagascar: 8 th  Edition  is also quite thorough.
• Online Info on Travel in Madagascar
• While this article provides a comprehensive list, you can’t fit everything into a single post! I recommend perusing additional online resources that can provide even more information about Madagascar. Be sure to check out   28 Interesting Facts About Madagascar ! 
• Continue researching and reading! The more you know, the better you can prepare for  culture shock.  And the more you will appreciate all the sights, sounds, smells, and tastes of Madagascar!

The long-ground roller is a bird species endemic to the spiny forests of Madagascar; Photo: Alicia Lamb.

Best of luck with your travels in Madagascar! Take care and enjoy, or as they say in Madagascar, “Mazotoa!”

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Money Matters: How much does it cost to travel in Madagascar?

The large majority of species in Madagascar are found nowhere else on earth. No surprise Madagascar is a paradise for nature and wildlife lovers. Famous sights include the Avenue of Baobabs with the gorgeous Baobab trees, the pinnacles of the ‘Tsingy de Bemaraha’ limestone plateau and the Andasibe-Mantadia park home to eleven lemur species. But how much does it cost to travel in Madagascar? Margherita Ragg of The Crowded Planet explored Madagascar with her husband Nick and backpacked throughout the country. Take a look at their expenses. 

This article is part of the  Money Matters  series in which we ask travelers to keep their expenses for Bunch of Backpackers. Real travelers, real expenses.  

COSTS 35-DAY MADAGASCAR TRIP:  1100 EURO (1352 USD)

Daily travel expenses madagascar*:  31 euro (38 usd).

*These daily travel expenses are per one person per day.  Including all tours, domestic flights, souvenirs, lodging, food, drinks, entrance fees, tips etc. Excluding international flights.

EXAMPLES OF PRICES IN MADAGASCAR:

These prices are per person unless stated otherwise.

Standard Madagascar expenses

One night in a hostel dormitory: 3,00   eur o One night in a double room in a simple guesthouse: 10,00 euro  A short 10-minute taxi ride: 1,00 euro  A bottle of water (0,5L) at the store: 0,40 euro  A local beer at a bar/restaurants:  1,00 euro  A glass of coca cola in a restaurant:  0,75 euro  Basic lunch at a local restaurant:  0,90 euro  Dinner at a local restaurant:  6,00 euro 

Notable Madagascar expenses 

7-day tour of Western Madagascar to the Tsiribihina River, Tsingy de Bemaraha, Avenue du Baobab:  300 euro (inclusive of accommodation, food, transport, local guide and entrance fees) 3 day trek around Andringitra National Park (including climbing Pic Boby, Madagascar’s 2nd highest mountain):  75,00 euro  2 dives in Anakao:  70,00 euro  Entrance and day trip in Ranomafana and Isalo (guide hired directly at park headquarters):  20,00 euro 

SOME DETAILS ON THIS TRIP:

About the backpackers:  Margherita Ragg and her husband Nick, 31 years Destination and travel period:  Madagascar in July 2014 for 31 days  Visited places:  Antananarivo, Antsirabe, Tsiribihina River, Tsingy de Bemaraha, Ranomafana National Park, Andringitra National Park, Isalo National Park, Tulear, Anakao. Type of trip:  Couple, independently Accommodation*:  budget (mainly hostels and guesthouses) Transportation*:  budget (cheapest available mode of transportation)  Food*:  budget (local places and cheap western places) Currency rate:  1 euro = 3250 Malagasy Ariary

*4 options: basic, budget, standard and luxury

MADAGASCAR BUDGET TIPS BY MARGHERITA

• In terms of traveling, you will save A LOT of money traveling by taxi-brousse, shared minibuses that shuttle across the country. They are cramped and uncomfortable, but they can be up to 10 times cheaper than the same ride in a rented 4X4.
• It’s worth taking a tent as many national parks have campgrounds for a minimal fee, but it may be cold in July/August and you may be miles away from restaurants. We camped near Ranomafana National Park in the grounds of a restaurant, for 5000 ariary per night (1.5 euro).
• When visiting national parks, you must be accompanied by a guide that takes up to 4 people. Solo or couple travellers can hang around park headquarters for a while, waiting for fellow travellers to team up with to share guide fees – the perfect way to make new friends!
• Traditional Malagasy food, served at establishments called ‘hotely’, is usually a big pile of tasteless rice with some pieces of meat for less than a euro. Dishes usually have nondescript names such as ‘chicken sauce’. I’m sure that even the thriftiest of travellers will have a hard time eating only at hotely – or maybe I’m getting old? Luckily, French cuisine is widespread and inexpensive throughout Madagascar. Think green pepper steak, pommes frites and banana flambé for 5/6 euro – heaven!

Note: The top photograph (featured image) was taken at sunset on the Avenue of Baobabs in Western Madagascar. ©The Crowded Planet.

–> Like this article :)? Book your Madagascar accommodation through  Hostelworld.com  or  Booking.com ! Booking through these links won’t cost you anything extra, but it will get me a small commission to keep this website up and running! Thanks! ~ Manouk

Have you been to Madagascar? Can you relate to these travel costs? 

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16 comments.

I had no idea it would be so inexpensive to travel in Madagascar! I’d travel there to see the trees alone. This post is an awesome resource. I only imagine a plane ticket from Europe or North America might cost more than the trip itself.

Me too Emiko! The Avenue of Baobab goes on my travel wish list! Amazing! And, Madagascar looks like an affordable country for backpackers :)

What incredible photos, wow gosh! Looks great! Prices aren’t too bad, though my understanding of euros is pretty shaky. Were there a lot of vegetarian food options out there, did you notice?

Ah I’m sorry Charlie! Will add the USD equivalents later! Think Marghe and Nick will be able to answer the vegetarian food question :)!

Great read! I guess I need to learn more about how to manage my money why travelling :) But it does look promising money-wise :) Might even check flights and consider it for my next year travel destination :) Looks like really cool and exciting place to visit!

Thanks for reading Monika! Yes, after seeing these photo’s and reading the Madagascar articles on The Crowded Planet I’ve become quite enthusiast about visiting! And it indeed does quite promising money-wise! Yay!

This is really useful especially since we have been considering Madagascar for awhile! I would love to take part in your series as we have been to Burma and I know a lot of travellers are always asking how much it costs to got there! Let me know if this is something I can take part in :)

He Samantha! Thanks so much for offering! I actually already have one for Burma, but I’ll send you an email for maybe a next trip :)? I’d be happy to feature you!! I hope you will make it to Madagascar by the way! It looks fantastic!

Hi everyone! Just to follow up on some of the questions: Emiko was absolutely right! we DID spend more on flights than in the country itself! And it didn’t really feel like we were trying to go as cheap as possible. It’s quite an affordable country, as long as you don’t hire cars with drivers. Charlie: we asked vegetarians in the country how they were coping and had mixed reviews. In hotelys, the veg option is likely to either be plain rice, or some sort of veg stew with the meat taken out of it. A Dutch traveler said she found really great veg food at street markets, and of course most French restaurants will have a vegetarian option. For vegans, I’m not sure. Hope it helps!

Great article if you are after the most basic trip…I have been driving around and I live in Madagascar and those rates are for locals only. You have always to negotiate the price, you need to have a very strong stomach to eat in those hotelys and to sleep in hostels (no hot-water and winter at night is very cold – dirty toilets to share etc..), you better camp outside or bring your own pillow and sheets. Like travelling using public transport? Ok, but be prepared to waste a whole day waiting for the bus to be full and, reach your destination at a speed of no more than 50 km/h (I own a bus that does the Tana/Diego route 24/28 hrs). A trip from Tana to Morondava will take more than a whole day, in a tiny mazda designed for 7 people that actually carries 18 ppl in one of the hottest area of the country. A domestic flight leg (ei. Toulear/Tana) is from €220 pp and a visit to a main national park is min. €15 pp. Madagascar is amazing and unique but it is not the right country for backpackers, infrastructure is just way too basic. However, good luck to all backpackers wishing to come to Madagascar, you will remember your trip!

Hi Roberto, thanks for your inputs. In your estimations, how long would it take to travel the whole country (if I specifically plan to visit the following places for about two to three days each: Antananarivo, Ambalakely, Ambatomirahavavy, Ambohimahasoa, Ambondromamy, Amparafaravola, Ankazomiriotra, Antalaha, Antsirabe, Antsiranana, Antsohihy, Bealanana, Befandriana, Fénérive Est, Fianarantsoa, Fort Dauphin, Maevatanana, Mahajanga, Manakara, Maroantsetra, Morondava, Sambava, Toamasina, Toliara, Tsiroanomandidy, Vangaindrano?

Please share your advise on what i should expect to spend as a non-back packer for the following expesnes: Flights between place, daily accommodation rates, food, fuel and vehicle rental? I look forward to hearing from you.

Hi Roberto, Thanks for your comment! I see your point, but for us backpackers that’s all part of the fun! We don’t mind spending time in a tiny Mazda carrying 18 persons ;)!

Hey! Thanks for the post. Do you gave any information on your itinerary? Planning on heading over in 6 weeks!

Hi fellow backpackers,

I plan a world trip with my best friend, starting in April 2017. We also want to travel to madagascar for 2-3 weeks. Does anybody know how the the security situation is at the moment? Did the prices change? And does anybody know how much we have to spend for a jeep with a driver in comparison to the public transport?

Thank you very much! Greetings from Germany Ole

Did you visit Madagascar in April 2017 and if so how was it? Who did you fly with and how much did you spent in total? I live in Germany too.

hello! I see it was a long time ago, but if u can share with us from where did u travel and did u change couple of stations before reaching the island? I am from Europe too and I can’t seem to find decent cost for the plane ticket … from anywhere in EU…

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How to Travel Around Madagascar

Madagascar . It’s more than an inaccurate (but fun) DreamWorks movie.

Located off the eastern coast of Africa, this island, nearly the size of France and the third-largest in the world, has a population over 26 million but sees less than 300,000 tourists a year.

I spent two weeks here with Intrepid Travel and was surprised by how few tourists there were as well as by just how difficult the country was to travel around. (The roads are so bad it can take up to eight hours to go 250 kilometers (155 miles)!)

There’s many reasons why more people don’t visit: getting to the country is expensive, there’s very little information about it online, few organized activities, and only a couple hostels, tourism information centers, helpful signs, or anything that would be considered a “tourist infrastructure” (and sadly, very little infrastructure at all).

Madagascar’s tourism caters to older Europeans who visit expensive beach resorts or take organized tours and move around the country in a little bubble. Nary a backpacker did I see on my trip.

Moreover, it’s a country ravaged by poverty, corruption, and natural disaster . Travelers unwilling to get off the beaten path (which is most people) usually don’t end up here.

Yet Madagascar is a raw and beautiful destination that blew me away in so many ways. It’s cheap once you get there, and your tourist dollars can create a really positive impact. There are few crowds, and instead the country is filled with many cute lemurs and majestic landscapes , which you get virtually to yourself!  

How to Get to Madagascar

Additionally, most of these destinations only offer a limited amount of flights per week.

When I went, I jumped on a flight deal to Johannesburg, thinking it’d be cheaper to hop over to Madagascar from there. That ended up being a stupid thing to do because, given the high price of flights from Johannesburg to Madagascar (I paid $800 USD round-trip), it ended costing me more than just booking a direct ticket from New York to Madagascar.

For a round-trip flight to Madagascar, you can generally expect to pay:

• U.S. (East Coast): $1,450-$1,750 USD
• Canada (East Coast): $1,100 USD-$1,400 USD
• Western Europe: $900 USD-$1,350 USD
• Johannesburg, South Africa: $500-700 USD

However, it’s not all bad news. If you’ve got points and miles to spend , with some planning, you can find a reward flight. Both Air France and United have decent award availability.

It takes some work to get there, but if you can string together some flight deals as well as mile opportunities, you can lower the cost to an affordable(ish) level. Here are some websites you can use to find cheap flight deals:

• Going (formerly Scott’s Cheap Flights)
• The Flight Deal
• Holiday Pirates

How to Get Around Madagascar

I think that many younger travelers stay away because getting to the country or booking a tour is so expensive. Plus, there’s just not much free information available on Madagascar.

But let’s change that and talk about how to visit the country.

Organized Tours A 14-day tour costs around $2,200–3,600 USD. You’ll stay in mid-range hotels (private bathrooms, hot water, breakfast, and maybe even a pool) and have your own bus with a driver and local guide. You’ll also get private guides at each park who will explain what you’re seeing, help spot animals, and give some added context on the destination.

Most of the tours follow the same route, hitting all the big parks and destinations in the center of the country, with added paid add-ons to other parts of the country.

I went with Intrepid Travel on their Experience Madagascar tour as part of my former partnership with them. Our guide Patrick was a phenomenal resource, answering all my questions, providing advice, and giving tips on what to see and do in this country that lacks a lot of resources to research.

If it were up to me, I would have focused the trip’s itinerary more. I think Intrepid sometimes tries to do too much. While I liked everything we did, I wish there had been more time visiting each place and less time driving (though if Madagascar had proper infrastructure that wouldn’t have been an issue).

Independent Travel Madagascar is a difficult place to visit solo. There’s little tourist infrastructure or hostels (which makes sense given how inexpensive hotels and guesthouses are here) and public buses don’t go to many cities and national parks. You’ll need to know French, too, as English is barely spoken (even though English is an official language).

In my opinion, this makes it rather arduous to get around without any assistance.

But could you travel around on your own? Sure! But I think you’d need to be an experienced traveler, really OK being pushed out of your comfort zone, and in absolutely no rush, because getting around on a budget will take time.

Since the roads are really bad, getting from point A to B is a challenge. In a public taxi brouse (small van packed to the gills with people), you’ll move slowly. Buses go when they are full. There’s no set timetable. Sometimes they show up; more often than not, they don’t.

However, seeing the condition of the buses and how many people they cram in there, plus the number of accidents on the road, I’m not sure I’d even get in one. I wouldn’t want to spend 24 hours packed like a chicken in a van with no air conditioning (and sometimes not even windows).

Renting a car and driver costs $75 USD a day (or slightly more if you want 4WD) and is the most popular option for people looking to go on their own (and not wanting to wait for the buses). While you could drive on your own, most rental companies require that a driver accompany you.

You can also fly around the island, but there’s only one airline (Air Madagascar), and most tickets cost at least $250-300 USD, so if you’re on a budget, flying just isn’t feasible. Plus, they cancel flights often without notice.

So, What Should You Do? If you’re really looking for some rugged, old-school independent travel, Madagascar is the place to do it. If you have lots of time, are up for a real challenge, and know French then go solo! (I really can’t stress the need to know French. Outside the big towns and a few tourist areas, English is barely spoken.)

You’ll cover slightly more ground and have a lot more freedom if you rent a car and driver. There’s plenty of cheap guesthouses and restaurants around so you won’t need to look far and wide for a place to stay or a meal.

If you aren’t looking for that kind of rugged experience and would like something more organized, a tour is the best — and really only — option. I wanted a tour to help me get the lay of the land and answer all my questions about the country. I don’t speak French nor had a lot of time. A tour was a great orientation to a country that was an enigma to me. It was a wonderful way to meet people in a destination with few independent travelers.

(One thing to remember is that the clientele of the tours here is older and the tours cater to that in their itineraries, activities, and accommodation. The tours here aren’t designed for active backpackers.)

If I went back, I’d go by myself and explore with a car but I’m glad I went with a tour on my first visit.  

Is Madagascar Safe?

That said, crime is rife throughout the country and not one local I knew recommended going out after dark. They don’t even do it. In fact, many hotels in the capital of Antananarivo hire escorts to take people from the hotel to bars or restaurants.

During the day and, especially in smaller villages, walking around is perfectly fine. At night, I would use a lot more caution, especially in the capital.  

What are Prices Like in Madagascar?

Even when you are eating at the hotel restaurants the tours go to, most meals aren’t more than the equivalent of a few US dollars. In regular, local restaurants, they are half that price.

Madagascar food is mostly chicken, zebu (a type of cattle), pork, stews, and rice. LOTS OF RICE. (Get the zebu in a stew. It’s better that way.) There’s also a lot of surprisingly good pizza in this country. You’ll definitely need to know French if you go into the non-international places (or travel outside of the cities).

Here are some typical prices:

• Meals at restaurants that cater to tourists – 20,000-30,000 MGA
• Meals at regular restaurants – 6,500-7,500 MGA
• Street snacks – 10-200 MGA (Be sure to try nem (spring rolls). They are incredible!)
• Accommodation – 65,000-200,000 MGA per night (you can easily find accommodation on Booking.com )
• Car with a driver – 350,000 MGA a day
• Grocery prices – 11,000-20,000 MGA (This would get you a kilo of rice, some zebu, and a variety of vegetables. Cooking your own food won’t really save you any money since restaurants here are so cheap.)
• SIM Card – 3,000 MGA, or 30,000 MGA for a 30-day, 4.5 GB data package (get Orange as it has the best network overall)
• Park entrance fees – 65,000-90,000 MGA plus 50,000-75,000 MGA for a guide
• Local mini buses – 10,000-20,000 MGA

Madagascar is a beautiful, raw, and enchanting country. There’s no place like it on earth. Far off the tourist trail, this a destination where your inner Anthony Bourdain can be set free to explore. I’m so glad I went, and though the old traveler adage is “I can’t wait to go back,” I suspect that my visit to Madagascar will be the only one in my lifetime. I hope I’m wrong though.

Book Your Trip to Madagascar: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight Use Skyscanner to find a cheap flight. They search websites and airlines around the globe so you always know no stone is left unturned.

Book Your Accommodation You can book your hostel with Hostelworld as they have the biggest inventory and best deals. If you want to stay somewhere other than a hostel, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates for guesthouses and cheap hotels.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. My favorite companies that offer the best service and value are:

• Safety Wing (best for everyone)
• Insure My Trip (for those over 70)
• Medjet (for additional evacuation coverage)

Looking for the Best Companies to Save Money With? Check out my resource page for the best companies to use when you travel. I list all the ones I use to save money when I’m on the road. They will save you money when you travel too.

Want More Information on Madagascar? Be sure to visit our robust destination guide on Madagascar for even more planning tips!

  Note: I went to Madagascar with Intrepid Travel as part of our partnership. They paid for the tour and my expenses during the trip. I paid for my flights to and from Madagascar.

Got a comment on this article? Join the conversation on Facebook , Instagram , or Twitter and share your thoughts!

Disclosure: Please note that some of the links above may be affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I earn a commission if you make a purchase. I recommend only products and companies I use and the income goes to keeping the site community supported and ad free.

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Top Cities to Visit in Madagascar

Antananarivo

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Prices were available within the past 7 days and start at $181 for one-way flights and $336 for round trip, for the period specified. Prices and availability are subject to change. Additional terms apply.

About Flying to Madagascar

Stuff your carry-on, arrange your Madagascar flights, and prepare for an excursion unlike any you've ever had before. We understand that the interesting part is in the prep work when the time comes to consider your next adventure. Discovering your favorite spot, considering the cool entertainment, and investigating plane tickets are all a part of making memories you'll remember forever. And whether you're looking for an action-packed getaway with the family or a peaceful trip in solitude, when you use Expedia to arrange your trip to Madagascar, you'll find tons of ways to tailor your adventure with our unbelievable rates and super simple confirmation process.

It's Time to Book the Best Madagascar Flight Offer

Regardless of if you're looking for airfare to the country's capital of Antananarivo, or would prefer to fly someplace off the beaten path, you're guaranteed to find the ideal destination for your trip here on Expedia. We're committed to assisting you find cheap tickets to this country that won't set you back financially. We understand you want to devote more of your hard-earned money toward enjoying the sights and less on the price of your airfare to this remarkable region. And that's why we offer you with a sprawling variety of economical plane tickets, including both return flights and single-way reservations, to guarantee your Madagascar travel plans remain within your budget.

On your vacation in Madagascar, immerse yourself in the nearby scene by tickling your taste buds with regional cuisine and experiencing the outdoor attractions. And if you'd like to explore even more of this region, pay a visit to Antananarivo, Nosy Be, or Ile Sainte-Marie. Regardless of where in this country you decide to go, visit the iconic landmarks on your trip, and enjoy vistas of the most scenic areas. It's easy to see why so many adventure seekers, amateur historians, and inveterate travelers alike are drawn to this incredible destination.

Reserve Your Madagascar Getaway Today

Expedia helps you save you time and money when securing your tickets to the Madagascar, so you can spend your days enjoying your vacation and not worrying about emptying your wallet. We offer our customers a variety of airlines, airports, and takeoff times, making it easier for you to reserve your airfare whether you're searching for a red-eye flight or a direct flight to a particular terminal. We also offer a hassle-free smartphone booking app, which invites you to reserve your trip whenever it's most convenient for you.

If a break from everyday agendas has almost arrived, it's an excellent time to get a flight to Madagascar. get your new camera kitted out for glorious views and your belly for tasty food - it's vacation time! Arrange your journey to Madagascar this minute, and prepare to take off on an unforgettable getaway tomorrow. When it's time to finding flights to Madagascar that align your expectations and agenda, look no further than our selection right here. Just designate your preferred travel dates now to see the best discounts on getaways in Madagascar.

Here at Expedia, we’re committed to helping you find cheap flights to Madagascar that won’t break the bank. We know you want to put more of your hard-earned cash toward exploring the sites and less on the price of your airfare. That’s why we provide you with a vast selection of affordable plane tickets, including roundtrip and one-way reservations, to ensure your Africa travel plans remain within your budget. Take advantage of our lowest rates on airfare and have leftover money to spare on your travel adventures.

When it comes to finding flights to Madagascar that match your price range and itinerary, look no further than our options right here. We offer a variety of airlines, airports, and flight times making it easier for you to book your airfare. Whether you’re looking for a redeye ticket or a flight to a specific terminal, you’ll find exactly what you need. We also provide a hassle-free mobile booking app, which lets you reserve wherever and whenever is most convenient for you. Book your airfare to Madagascar today and get ready to embark on an unforgettable getaway tomorrow.

Madagascar Flights Information

Frequently asked questions, explore madagascar, trending flights to madagascar.

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Top Flight Destinations In Madagascar

• Flights to Nosy Be
• Flights to Antananarivo
• Flights to Nosy Boraha
• Flights to Mahajanga
• Flights to Antsirabe
• Flights to Antsiranana
• Flights to Morombe
• Flights to Morondava
• Flights to Andasibe
• Flights to Tsiroanomandidy
• Flights to Toamasina
• Flights to Nosy Komba
• Flights to Mandritsara
• Flights to Toliara
• Flights to Anakao
• Flights to Ifaty
• Flights to Ambanja
• Flights to Ranomafana
• Flights to Andavadoaka
• Flights to Tsarabanjina

Top Flight Destinations In the World

• Flights to Japan
• Flights to South Korea
• Flights to Türkiye
• Flights to Australia
• Flights to India
• Flights to United States of America
• Flights to United Kingdom
• Flights to Thailand
• Flights to Italy
• Flights to France
• Flights to Spain
• Flights to Canada
• Flights to Colombia
• Flights to Sweden
• Flights to China
• Flights to Switzerland
• Flights to Indonesia
• Flights to Greece
• Flights to Brazil
• Flights to Norway
• Radisson Blu Hotel Antananarivo Waterfront
• Ravintsara Wellness Hotel
• Radisson Hotel Tamboho Waterfront Antananarivo
• Radisson Serviced Apartments Antananarivo City Centre
• Andilana Beach Resort
• Anjiamarango Beach Resort
• Relais des Plateaux
• Palm Beach Resort & Spa
• ibis Antananarivo Ankorondrano
• Fly Inn Madagascar Hotel
• Andasibe Cyperus Hotel
• Hôtel Colbert Spa & Casino
• Villa les Orchidées
• Laguna Beach
• Carlton Hotel
• Royal Beach Hôtel
• Le Louvre Hôtel & Spa
• Royal Andilana Resort & Spa
• Les Flots Bleus
• Darwin Airline SA Lugano
• Evergreen International
• Ghadames Air Transport
• Aircompany Kokshetau
• Royal Airways Limited
• Vietnam Air Service Co.
• West Caribbean Costa Rica
• Olympus Airways
• Bulgarian Air Charter
• Branson Air Express
• Deutsche Bahn

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Lemurs, baobabs, rainforest, desert, hiking and diving: Madagascar is a dream destination for outdoors enthusiasts – half the fun is getting to all these incredible attractions.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Allée des Baobabs

Western Madagascar

One of Madagascar's most recognisable images, this small stretch of the RN8 between Morondava and Belo-sur-Tsiribihina is flanked on both sides by…

Musée de la Photo

Antananarivo

Opened in early 2018, this fabulous photography museum is Antananarivo's best museum. There are four small rooms showing films (in French, English or…

Parc National Isalo

Southern Madagascar

Isalo is one of Madagascar's most beautiful parks. It contains sculpted buttes, vertical rock walls and, best of all, deep canyon floors shot through with…

Parc National Bemaraha

If you visit one place in western Madagascar, make it Parc National Bemaraha. A Unesco World Heritage Site, its highlights are the jagged, limestone…

Poised atop Ambohimanga hill is the Rova, the fortress-palace. The walls of the compounds were constructed using cement made from sand, shells and egg…

Tana’s rova (fortified palace), known as Manjakamiadana (A Fine Place to Rule), is the imposing structure that crowns the city's highest hill. Gutted in a…

Parc National Masoala-Nosy Mangabe

Eastern Madagascar

This 2100-sq-km national park contains one of the best primary rainforests in the country. It is famous for its vegetation, which includes rare hardwoods,…

Parc National Analamazaotra

This is the most popular park within Parc National Andasibe Mantadia. The real draw of this reserve is the rare indri, Madagascar’s largest lemur, whose…

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Complete Guide to Madagascar: All you Need to Know!

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Madagascar feels like a far far away land. That is because it is! Located off the eastern coast of Africa across from Mozambique, Madagascar is the world’s fourth-largest island. And with nearly 90% of wildlife endemic to the island, Madagascar should be high on your bucket list.

Don’t worry, we’ll get you there with this complete guide to Madagascar! 

From rainforests to beaches, wildlife, and astonishing rock formations, there is a diverse range of sights to explore. But sadly, Madagascar is one of the world’s poorest nations, resulting in a poverty-stricken country that is also very cheap. Its infrastructure is some of the worst in the world, with a 120-mile journey sometimes taking an entire day to complete.

Because of the poor infrastructure and low costs, it is best to visit Madagascar for a long period, making it a wonderful backpacking destination. There are only a couple of well-developed areas, in particular Nosy Be, which is a common holiday destination.

Madagascar was a French colony until 1960 when it gained its full independence. As a result, the most common visitors to Madagascar are French nationals. There is a lot of French influence still today in Madagascar, especially related to its language.

Many French ex-pats have opened hotels and restaurants so the French food in Madagascar is delicious! Our favorite towns – Antsirabe and Diego Suarez – have an excellent culture, cheap accommodation, and excellent food.

Read on to learn all about the complete guide to Madagascar!

Content and photographs provided by Yana Kogan and Timon .

Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. If you make a purchase or booking through one of our links we may earn a small commission (don’t worry, it’s at no extra cost to you).

Best Time to Visit Madagascar

The best time to visit Madagascar is during the dry season between April and November. The wet season is best avoided. Rain is very heavy and the island experiences cyclones between December and March.

Like many countries, Madagascar has in place COVID travel restrictions . You have the option to present a negative PCR test performed 72 hours before boarding, or you can test upon arrival. But check with the airline first, just in case. If you decide to test upon arrival, you’ll need to pay for the test at your own expense and self-isolate until the results are available.

How to Get to Madagascar

Madagascar is not easy to get to and flights are expensive. There are not many places that fly directly to Madagascar, including Paris, Addis Ababa, Nairobi, and Johannesburg. Flights are also available from Mauritius, Seychelles, Reunion, Comoros, and Mayotte, but flying through these places is typically expensive.

We were able to score a multi-destination flight with Air Kenya that originated in Nairobi with stops in Mauritius, Madagascar, and Seychelles for only $350 USD. If you are exploring the region for a long time, make sure to check different options as there are often deals on multi-destination flights. 

Internal flights in Madagascar are a monopoly with Air Madagascar. They are known for lengthy delays (or cancellations) and flights usually cost $300 USD one-way.

Visa for Madagascar

An electronic visa (eVisa) will be required for tourists. The eVisa application is available online and valid for up to 90 days. Visitors will need to complete the online registration to receive a landing authorization to present on arrival at the eVisa ticket counters. The eVisa rates are:

• 30 days: $37 USD or 35 EUR
• 60 days: $45 USD or 40 EUR

Malagasy is the national language of Madagascar and there are many regional dialects. It was a French colony up until its independence in 1960, so French is the official second language. But in rural locations, many do not speak French.

English is rarely spoken in rural areas. From a language standpoint, Madagascar was one of the most difficult places we have ever traveled to. We would recommend learning some basic words in French as well as common numbers.

Madagascar uses the Ariary (Ar) which was introduced in 2005 as the national currency. It is the same bill as their earlier currency, the Malagasy Franc. Many locals, especially in the countryside, still use the Franc when quoting prices. The conversion from Franc to Ariary is 5:1.  Typical Costs in Madagascar are as follows:

• Street food  ranges from 500 – 2,500 Ariary for meals
• Beer  typically cost 3,000 Ariary
• Budget hotels  range from 20,000 – 35,000 Ariary.

As of March 2022, the Ariary is worth:

• $1 = 4,047 Ariary
• €1 = 4,474 Ariary

Best Sim Cards in Madagascar

Telma is the largest, most reliable, and cheapest cell phone provider. However, Orange was our preferred network to use for data. Sim cards cost 3,000 Ariary, and credit is available throughout the country at street vendors and shops. Credit is available in 1,000 Ariary intervals, which is good for about 50 MB of data.

Hotels in Madagascar are very cheap and possibly some of the best for the budget prices. Good rooms cost between 20,000 and 35,000 Ariary. Warm showers are a rarity and the “Malagasy shower”, a simple bucket shower, was quite common. Western toilets were not always found, and if they were, they rarely were inclusive of the much sought-after toilet seat.

Where to Stay in Madagascar on a Budget

• Fianarantsoa   –  Residence Matsiatra is around $20/night for a private room
• Manakara   – Chez Zizou costs $20 for very basic bungalows on the beach

Food in Madagascar

Madagascar has many ex-pats, so there are excellent restaurants on the island, and the Italian and French cuisine is particularly amazing. 

Zebu (beef) is the national dish and is incorporated in all cuisines. The local cuisine is served at “hotelys” and street vendors. Hotelys are small local restaurants, common in most towns. Dishes are typically an enormous plate of rice and a small side of meat, either zebu, pork, or chicken. Occasionally, mine sao (fried noodles) or beans are available.

In the morning, several street vendors sell coffee and fried dough (which is delicious). Throughout the day, it is common to find vendors with fried snacks, such as samosas, fried bananas, or fried vegetables. 

Typical costs for food are:

• Fried snacks: 100 to 200 Ar
• Coffee: 200 to 300 Ar
• Small meals: 1,000 Ar
• Hotely meals: 2,500 to 4,000 Ar

Food-Related Illness

Madagascar has very poor health standards, bad sanitation, and a lack of refrigeration. Food is often prepared in large quantities, days in advance, and sold until it is finished. The inevitable result is that you will likely have an upset stomach with a bout or two in the toilet. Don’t worry, everyone here is in the same boat, so you are not alone.

Taking a Taxi Brousse

Taxi brousses are the main method of public transportation in Madagascar. A taxi brousse is a mini-bus that can range from somewhat new to somehow surviving. You never know what to expect; music blasting, chickens on the floor, dead fish on the roof, luggage packed in everywhere, and babies sleeping half on your lap. It is surely an adventure, and Madagascar cannot be visited without at least one taxi brousse ride!

Be ready to get bombarded and harassed at every taxi brousse station. Always look around at several options, inspect the bus, and go with the one that is almost at capacity as they do not leave until they are full.

Regional vs. National Taxi Brousse

This is critical. Regional buses are of lower quality and they pack in as many people as possible. If they have room, even when you swear it is not possible, they will stop and pick up more people. At one such stop, we saw two grown men who did not know each other, sit on one another’s lap. National companies do not pack people in and each person has an assigned seat.

Factors When Picking a Taxi Brousse

• Look at the tires.  Do they look like they can make it to your destination?   Make sure they have tread. 
• Can they put your bag inside in the trunk space verses on the roof? 
• Can you get a seat next to a window that opens? 
• Are you sitting right next to the only working speaker? 
• Is the taxi brousse almost full? 

These may sound like minor factors, but then you have one of “those” taxi brousse rides. “Those” rides take eight hours when it should take three. They put dead fish on the roof on top of your bags. It is 90 degrees and humid and no one likes to open their windows, because its “winter.” Music is blasting out of the only speaker right above your seat.

These are not made up, these happened to us and it can happen to you too. Picking a taxi brousse is part art, part science. It’s best to just mentally prepare for a long and stressful day and cross your fingers that you’ll actually get to your destination. Aside from all those things, it’s absolutely great, I swear.

Taxi Brousse Pricing

• Tana to Antsirabe: 12K
• Morondova to Antsirabe: 30K
• Antsirabe to Fianarantsoa: 15K
• Tsaronuru to Ambalavao: 3K
• Ambalavao to Ranahiro: 20K
• Ranahiro to Toliara: 23K (no taxi browse station in Ranahiro, book the day before with a hotel or one of the touts in town)
• Toliara to Anakao Ferry: 50K each way
• Toliara to Tana: 52K by Taxi Brousse 120K by private car
• Tana to Andasibe: 15K
• Andasibe to Tamatave: 14K
• Tamatave to Ile Saint Marie (bus and ferry transfer): 70K
• Tamatave to Tana: 20K
• Tana to Diego Suarez: 70K

Madagascar Itinerary Recommendations

The biggest variable when visiting Madagascar is the travel time between destinations. The taxi brousse is pretty reliable; however, the drive will incur long hours. For those with a limited holiday, it is best to hire a personal car and driver.

West Madagascar: Baobabs and the Grand Tsingy

The west of Madagascar has two of the main highlights,  Tsingy de Bemaraha and the Avenue of the Baobabs . An excellent way to visit the west is on a seven-day tour that includes a few days on a traditional pirogue (boat) floating down the Tsiribihina River.

Tsingy and the Avenue of the Baobabs are two of the most popular places to visit in Madagascar and a highlight that should not be missed.

East Madagascar: Jungle and Beach

The east of Madagascar is a very desirable part of the country, with excellent rainforests and beaches. Near Antananarivo, Andasibe is a rainforest with great walking tours. Continue to the coast to Ile Saint Marie and the  paradise island of Ile Aux Nattes .

South Madagascar: Hiking and Beach

Due to better road infrastructure, visiting the south is the most popular route for tourists. The itinerary usually visits Antsirabe, Ambalavao, Anja Park, Isalo National Park, and one of the beach towns near Toliare, such as Anakao or Ifante.

While this is very popular, this was our least favorite part of the country. The only exception was hiking the Andringitra Mountains near Ambalavao.

North Madagascar: Rainforest, Rock Formations, and Beaches

The north is much more laid back than the rest of the country. Most of the north is concentrated around   Diego Suarez  and Nosy Be. Nosy Be is expensive and a popular resort island. Diego Suarez is a great colonial city with excellent sites nearby.

Main activities include a visit to Ramena, a boat ride to Emerald Bay, hiking the Three Bays, and a day trip to Tsingy Rouge and Amber Mountain.

Best of Madagascar

• Avenue of the Baobabs
• Andasibe rainforest
• Ile Aux Nattes
• Andringitra mountains
• Tsingy Rouge

That’s the complete guide to madagascar – we hope you have an amazing visit to this beautiful country!

Planning a trip to Madagascar? Check out our favorite books and travel guides!

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About the Author:

Yana & Timon met at college in Boston, Massachusetts. After graduating, they started their professional careers. They moved to San Francisco in 2010, a city they loved living in for nearly six years. After working and saving up money for several years, they quit their jobs and set off on an adventure of a lifetime. They started living a nomadic lifestyle in December 2015 and have not looked back since.

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Hi Your trip sounds great, thank you very much for sharing all this helpful information. How was it with the safety? Did you always feel save? Or did you hear of tourists getting robbed?

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Find cheap flights to Madagascar from $752

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Faqs - booking madagascar flights, i'm traveling to madagascar to visit ranomafana national park. where should i fly into.

Ivato International Airport is the main airport where such flights fly into. It is the biggest airport and the one with numerous arriving international flights in Madagascar. It is situated 9.9 miles northwest of the city center and 3.1 miles north of the RN4 road to northwest Madagascar. The airport has international departures and arrivals situated on the left side of the airport while domestic services on the right. Antananarivo has amenities like baggage carousels, waiting areas, check-in counters, screening equipment, and several other amenities found at international airports.

How do I fly from the UK and Ireland to Madagascar?

You're not likely to enjoy direct flights from the UK and Ireland to Madagascar. However, you can take a flight to Nairobi (NBO) from London Heathrow (LHR) and then connect to Madagascar through TNR. You could also take a flight to Paris (CDG) and then fly Air France to Madagascar.

Are there direct flights to Madagascar?

There are limited flights to Madagascar. However, the most convenient way to visit Madagascar from the US is via Paris or Bangkok. Ivato International Airport's main airlines include Emirates, Turkish Airlines, Delta, KLM, and Air France.

Which airlines fly to Madagascar from Australia and New Zealand?

The majority of flights from Australia and New Zealand to Madagascar are run by Air Austral and Air Mauritius. These offer no direct flights to Madagascar, but you can fly through Bangkok (BKK), Johannesburg (JNB), or Nairobi (NBO) and then to TNR.

Do I need a visa to visit Madagascar?

Currently, tourists visiting Madagascar must produce tourist visas that are valid for six months past their arrival date. Although you can get your visa at Antananarivo Airport, it is imperative to obtain one before traveling to Madagascar. Visas bought upon arrival can only be bought using dollars, euros, and Malagasy ariary only.

Can I rent a car at Ivato International Airport (TNR)?

Yes, you can easily rent a car at TNR and leave the airport in style. We recommend booking your car rental in advance when booking the flight. Some car rental brands to consider at TNR include Budget, Firefly, Alamo, Dolla, Hertz, Avis, and National.

Which airport is near Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park?

Antananarivo is the closest airport to Tsingy de Bermaraha National Park. It is located approximately 178 miles to the National Park with the entire voyage taking approximately 4h 47min, including layovers. To get to the National Park, you can rent a car or take a tour bus.

What are the kid's seat rules for getting out of TNR with kids on board?

Child safety seats are not mandatory in Madagascar; however, it is recommended for the safety of the children in the car. To stay safe, passengers in a car must be buckled up and therefore you can ask for a kid's seat from the rental counter.

Which lounges are available at Ivato International Airport (TNR)?

There are several lounges located right at TNR. These include Air Madagascar Business Class Lounge found in the Main Terminal and Air France Lounge located in the International Terminal. These lounges are accessible if you fly first or business class.

What is the best public transportation option for leaving TNR?

You can easily travel out of TNR with a special shuttle offered by ADEMA Navettes. This service will quickly transport you between the airport and multiple popular destinations in Antananarivo, including offering you door-to-door service to your destination. You can also choose an economical shared-ride minibus, also known locally as 'Taxi-Be', for your trip from TNR. Although these vehicles tend to be crowded and make several stops along the way, you can end up saving in fare costs compared to taking a traditional taxi.

How long is the flight to Madagascar?

An average nonstop flight from the United States to Madagascar takes 32h 03m, covering a distance of 9513 miles. The most popular route is New York - Antananarivo with an average flight time of 18h 50m.

What is the cheapest flight to Madagascar?

The cheapest ticket to Madagascar from the United States found in the last 72 hours was $952. The most popular route is New York John F Kennedy Intl to Antananarivo and the cheapest round-trip airline ticket found on this route in the last 72 hours was $1,277.

What are the most popular destinations in Madagascar?

Based on KAYAK flight searches, the most popular destination is Antananarivo (97% of total searches to Madagascar). The next most popular destination is Nosy Be (3%).

How does KAYAK’s flight Price Forecast tool help me choose the right time to buy?

KAYAK’s flight Price Forecast tool uses historical data to determine whether the price for a given destination and date is likely to change within 7 days, so travelers know whether to wait or book now.

Top tips for finding cheap flights to Madagascar

• Enter your preferred departure airport and travel dates into the search form above to unlock the latest Madagascar flight deals.
• If you are planning to visit multiple cities in Madagascar, you can fly to Antananarivo as it is the main city in Madagascar. Antananarivo is the primary entry point for Madagascar and is situated in the island’s Central Highlands. From Antananarivo, you can conveniently travel to the neighboring cities such as Moramanga, Fenoarivo, Fandriana, Faratsiho, Betafo, Anjozorobe, Arivonimamo, Soavinandriana and others. For instance, you can conveniently fly from Antananarivo to a city like Fandriana as the entire voyage covers approximately 91 miles.
• International travelers can fly to Madagascar on several airlines, such as Turkish Airlines, Delta, and Ethiopian Air. Additionally, Air Madagascar is the national flag carrier of the island country. The airline features an expansive domestic route network and connections to both Asia and Europe and most of Africa and the Indian Ocean islands.
• Since there is no direct flight from New York to Madagascar, you can first land in Paris, France, and then fly via an Air France or Air Madagascar flight.
• If flying from America to Madagascar, you will need a multi-destination itinerary. You can begin your route with either KLM, Air France, or Kenya Airways, both of which offer direct flights to European hubs such as London or Paris. From there, you can use various subsequent options to arrive in Madagascar.
• To skip congestion, avoid flying to Madagascar when the major festivals are taking place. For instance, the Easter festival takes place around March or April, the Santabary Festival is held in April or early May, Donia Music Festival is held in September, and Christmas and New Year’s festivals take place in December. Other minor festivals include Feria Oramena, Famadihana, and Hiragasy, all held between June and July.
• When visiting Madagascar as a foreigner, you will show your passport at the port of entry, which needs to be valid for at least 6 months. Your passport should also feature two clear visa pages. Although you will require a visa to get into Madagascar, you can obtain a 3-month single-entry tourist visa upon arriving at the airport.
• Madagascar has ten airports. Ivato International Airport is a hub for international flights from Johannesburg, Paris, and Bangkok. It is home to Madagascar's national airline, Air Madagascar. Therefore, you can find a flight there from any state.
• Most airlines have flights to Sainte–Marie Island, and Sainte Marie Airport is a hub for northeast Madagascar flights. So, you wouldn't have any problem flying to this destination.

Top 5 airlines flying to Madagascar

West Jet has a horrible boarding process and the seats have no cushion.

Everything went smoothly. I didn’t like that when I booked in the main cabin my wife and I weren’t seated together. One would think when booking on an option that allows picking your seat. They would put you and your travel partner together. Had to call to get it sorted. They did fix.

The gate area was incredibly short staffed, with one representative manning 4-5 flights, which caused a 3 hr delay in boarding even though the plane was all ready to leave. Other flights also were delayed because of this. The flight crew was awesome and I feel bad for the only gate worker on call, but Delta needs to hire more employees.

Very frustrated with boarding gate crew. She announced the plane was small and they would be limiting us to one item to carry on. Not a problem for me as I understand the tiny planes have limited space!! Not the case here! It was a rather large plane and had plenty of room for bags! So because I don’t want to be one of “those people” who ignores the request to check a carry on I did so asking if I would be able to pick it up at the bottom of the ramp on arrival in Knoxville to which she responded “yes”! Then I watched as every other passenger held onto their 2 items and boarded!! Then when we arrived in Knoxville our 2 carry ons had been put with all the other luggage and we had to go to baggage pick up and wait for all the big checked bags to come off the carousel! So she lied!! Frustrating. Next time I won’t be so nice!

It was a good experience except when boarding a female flight attendant did not go out of her way to assist my teenage daughters in finding space for their carry-ons after their compartments were full.

On time departure, smooth trip, flight attendant told through passengers the gate we would arrive at and the gate our outbound flight was departing from. Early arrival

Checking in at the airport the agent only booked the first keg of my trip and had my checked luggage going to the airport with a layover! Never was issued a boarding pass for the second leg or received sticker fir my checked bag. All was well in the end! Delta agents helped to resolve the situation!!!

Delayed due to an ill passenger after loading. Not preventable on Delta's part. Was in first class. The seats are becoming worn and detaching from their velcro attachments. Only got snacks on flight. The attendant was not the friendliest.

I would fly again the whole experience was great. The only feed back I can give that they don't do that American Airlines does is the crew there is more humorous with boarding and thank their passengers. It makes it more fun to fly with them. I would however fly Delta again.

Big plane, long flight, absolutely no leg room and basically non existent air! I am 5”4’ and always travel Main Cabin, I was miserable on this plane and could barely move when we arrived in Cabo due to the cramped leg area!

Excellent apart from transport to actual plane 10 minutes from the actual gate , walking out in the tarmac in the rain and having to climb stairs to enter while holding luggage.

Did not find the wheelchair that supposed to assist and went to a long queue for transit security chk which was very slow and boarding desk wanted to close counter although that they knew that I am minutes away because of their mistake of not providing the wheelchair.

They charge me for luggage which is was included on the ticket

Boarding was smooth and on time. The seat was comfortable and the entertainment worked. Staff were gracious.

Business class in the second leg - CDG-EVN was a disaster.

worst experience ever i choose my seat in advance and also have my seat selected in my boarding and the they told me that my seat has been changed without notify me

Food could have been better especially the breakfast. Overall it was a good flight

No birding was given for next trip on same carrier, food was very moderate.

We transited through Chad and what was supposed to be a 1hr 20 minutes transit time lasted over 4hrs. We didn't get regular updates until we complained. After a 10hr flight from Paris no form of refreshment given and finally arrived Abuja over 6hrs later and none of my bags came

The line at boarding was not well organized and managed

Excellent service and comfort from the moment you check in. Flight crew is hyper focused on making passengers comfortable and at ease. It’s like a flying hotel!

Only chicken as a meat dish through out the flight

Nothing really was great as such. Seen other no name airlines perform better.

Quality of service on board was very inconsistent. FA service primarily seemed robotic and they barely engaged with passengers

I’m unclear why I had to pay extra for assigned seats as Turkish airlines did not honor the seating. We were placed across the aisle from each other on TK 34, and were seated behind one another on TK 694. Because my name was misspelled on e-ticket (Klawiter, instead of Klawitter) I could not log onto website to get the connection gate number in Istanbul. The monitors in the airport were a jumbled mess 1/2 Arabic and 1/2 English.

On line check in needs a lot of improvement. I tried and gave up.

Food not good, flight attendants not the best, not accommodating very ruff

the female flight attendant was racist towards me. I could tell she treated the two other passengers next to me with more softness.

Oh my god! For an13 hour flight they serve you food just one time. Also don’t be thirsty they give you a little small cup of soda to drink. They seem like their goal is to feed you one so they don’t have to be bothered with you. It quite surprise for such a long flight there are several times to eat at least three and the food was well lackluster. The food and lack of offering drinks which were always hot no ice provided.

We were traveling first class. Checkin counter lady and her manager, both were in bad mood and did not treat us well about checking in the handbag. The gate agent took care of it right away. I travel Turkish twice a year in first class. No one has ever refused to check in the hand bag. Not sure, why this agent and her manager refused. Everything else was excellent.

The food could be better, the beef was quite tough. The crew were friendly and helpful on this flight, which has not being my experience on other Ethiopian flights.

The crew were extremely unfriendly. The plane was dirty and the entertainment system did not work, so they did not even give out earphones to anyone.

The flight was one hour late. The food is mediocre and the screen was broken

Seat in front of my wife was broken so it reclined further than normal and without having to push the recline button so my wife had absolutely no room the entire 17 hour flight. My seat was broken and wouldn't recline at all. Also.. my tray table was sticky and dirty right away before I even used it. Also...the floor in the back of the plane from our row of seats on back was totally soaked and both times we landed water came rushing out of the food/servant area like a flood onto the same already wet carpet. It got everything wet that was placed around our feet...including our shoes and socks.

Flight was smooth but unnecessary long because we had to refuel at FCO Rome. Air hostesses service and response to call light could be better. Both planes were old with broken seat arms and toilets. Why Africans had to be given the farthest Gates is what baffles me and why we have to pay for Aisle seats I found really strange. Is there ever an end to ripping people off even after paying over $2300 for one seat.

it was a nice tripe but they need to work on the serving of soda,they should be abled to serve cain soda not on cup.At least each passenger should be entitled to one cain of soda not serving on cup.thanks.

On my return flight the TV did not work the entire flight! They knew it wasn’t working but they let me sit there. The guy sitting nièce to me told me he was ok the previous flight and it wasn’t working. This is business class by the way!

The entertainment (movies) blockbuster and classics never change. I am a frequent Ethiopian flyer and this should be addressed. Not much changed from my summer flight and my December flight. It is annoying - surely you can update the selections more often. Same with food options. It becomes extremely boring to be offered the same exact meals from Washington to Addis to Maputo every trip, each time. AS

Entertainment was very poor. Couldn’t watch anything. Ear pieces were the wrong type .

Food was horrible. Our flight was not comfortable due to turbulence, seats was not comfortable, Very tight barely can not move anywhere.

Paid an extra USD 100 for so-called Comfort seats. All of these (the bulkhead seats) had parents with babies and infants who were screaming much of the time. One mother even decided to change nappies on the seat. This was anything but comfort!

Front section of economy cabin is better than rear. Paid for seats selected.

Good flight. Paid for seats sat the frront section of the economy. Better than rear cabin.

Flight was delayed for 9 hours. We finally arrived ved at 0435hrs instead of 1950hrs the previous day. No compensation was provided.

Apart from delay of 3 hrs in Nairobi for onward flight to Dar all fine. Looked like operational issues caused it.

I booked a round trip flight and boarded a Kenya Airways trip from New York (JFK) to Nairobi (JKIA). First flight from New York to Nairobi was uneventful with no issues. However, the return flight was beyond disappointing. To begin with I had paid an extra $60 each for premium seats (me and my wife) in economy aisle 15 (B & A). However, upon settling down in the middle seat, I noticed that the controller had been ripped off meaning I would not have access to some of the seat functionalities like the individual lighting etc. I proceeded to alert a flight attendant that the controller was missing and she politely responded to me by telling me if I need anything, to use my wife’s seat controller (on the window seat) to call for assistance and I would be assisted accordingly. I was surprised by the response that she gave as it felt like my comfort and request for a service that I paid for was undermined, but nonetheless I opted to play it nice and kept my calm. After this I engaged in a conversation with a passenger (Caucasian / White male) who sat next to me on the aisle seat. In the process of having this conversation I asked him if he had paid for his seat. He went ahead to politely tell me that he had been moved from a seat in the back by one of the flight attendants and had not paid any extra fees. During this conversation, he noticed that the charging docks were not working and he needed to charge his iPad to watch his Netflix show (it was on pause). Alarmed by this, he went ahead and flagged one of the flight attendants who without wasting any time acted astonished and as fast as lightning was able to find him a better seat a few rows in front. Please note, all the charging plugs were not working for the three seats. In summary, below are the reasons for the low rating: 1. Charging for a broken seat: Kenya Airways should not charge for a defective seat. If a seat is defective and is paid for, the airlines should work out a way to either refund the customer or move the customer to a better seat – regardless of skin color. 2. Below Par Customer Service: Do not debilitate a customer’s request especially when a paid for service is not delivered – regardless of skin color. Assuming that I am comfortable with having to either keep alerting the flight attendant or relying on my wife’s seat to perform some of the functionality I may need is ridiculous. 3. Biasness / Inequality / Prejudiced Behavior: The Caucasian/ White male was treated with more favor. Not only was he moved around to make sure he was comfortable (free of charge) but all his complaints were resolved immediately without any hesitance. On the contrary, I being a black man of African descent who had paid an additional premium for his seat, I was completely ignored and told to settle for what I got.

Excellent. They canceled our flight & put us up for the night. Then upgraded us. We are impressed

On a long flight us customers need more rehydration by the crew. Some of us have water bottles but no crew is coming around to offer water. I’m not saying issue us all with plastic water bottles.

The flight staff were not very kind. I went back to get a drink, 4 of them back there chatting. They all looked at me continued to talk then they started doing stuff and one finally asked after I was standing there awhile what I needed. This happened multiple times. The movies were not the great and seemed dated. My seat squeaked every time I moved and it moved around a bit.

My flight from Nairobi to nyc. My seat made noise and moved around. The two toilets in the back didn’t work well cause you didn’t know if someone was in there cause the light didn’t work. The bathroom doors didn’t lock well either, so I walked in on someone. The crew wasn’t quick or super helpful. When I went to get something they were chatting and they would look at me, continue on with their conversation and finally I would interrupt to get a drink.

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Travel Advisory July 31, 2023

Madagascar - level 2: exercise increased caution.

Reissued with obsolete COVID-19 page links removed, and updates to crime information in the Tsaratanana, Tsiroanomandidy, Maintirano, and Betroka areas.

Exercise increased caution in Madagascar due to crime and civil unrest.   Some areas have increased risk. Read the entire Travel Advisory.

Reconsider travel to the following areas due to violent crime and banditry:

• The area in and around the city of Tsaratanana in the Betsiboka Region;
• The area along the unnamed road connecting the city of Tsiroanomandidy in the Bongolava Region with the coastal city of Maintirano in the Melaky Region; and
• The area in and around the city of Betroka in the Anosy Region.

Country Summary :  Most criminal activity is non-violent petty theft, pickpocketing, and other crimes of opportunity predominately in urban areas and in crowded markets.  Violent crime, such as armed robbery and assault, occurs throughout Madagascar, particularly after dark, in remote areas, and along major national roads in the south and western areas of the country.

Read the country information page for additional information on travel to Madagascar.

If you decide to travel to Madagascar:

• Avoid walking alone, especially after dark.
• Do not travel on the roads between cities after dark. [SJ3]
• Be aware of your surroundings.  Thefts of items from vehicles is common and may involve ruses or distraction, particularly when stuck in traffic.
• Stay alert in locations frequented by tourists.
• Do not display signs of wealth, such as wearing expensive jewelry or watches.
• Enroll in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program ( STEP ) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Follow the Department of State on Facebook and Twitter .
• Review the Country Security Report for Madagascar.
• U.S. citizens who travel abroad should always have a contingency plan for emergency situations.  Review the Traveler’s Checklist .
• Visit the CDC page for the latest Travel Health Information related to your travel.   

Mid-Sized Urban Areas   – Level 3: Reconsider Travel

Violent crime, such as armed carjacking, banditry, mugging, home invasion, and kidnapping can occur at any time.  Local police often lack the resources and training to respond effectively to serious criminal incidents in these areas:

Visit our website for  Travel to High-Risk Areas .

Embassy Messages

View Alerts and Messages Archive

Quick Facts

6 months at the time of entry

Yes, available upon arrival

Yellow fever, if traveler has been in a yellow fever endemic country within 6 months of arrival

Embassies and Consulates

U.s. embassy antananarivo.

Lot 207 A, Point Liberty Andranoro, Antehiroka 105 Antananarivo Madagascar Telephone: +(261) (20) 23-480-00 (Monday through Thursday from 7:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. and Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.) Emergency After-Hours Telephone: +(261) (20) 23-480-00 Fax: +(261) (20) 23-480-35 Email:   [email protected]

Destination Description

Learn about the U.S. relationship to countries around the world.

Entry, Exit and Visa Requirements

Requirements for Entry:

• Passport, valid for six months from your date of entry and with three blank pages
• Visa, obtain before traveling, or purchase at port of entry if staying less than three months. Visas may be purchased with U.S. dollars, euros, or Malagasy ariary, but credit cards are not accepted.
• Evidence of onward/return travel
• Proof of sufficient funds
• World Health Organization (WHO) card with yellow fever vaccination if traveler has been in a yellow fever endemic area within six months of arrival

Visit the Embassy of Madagascar website or the nearest Malagasy embassy or consulate for visa information, including how to obtain a visa before traveling if you will stay longer than three months, and documents required for visa extensions. The U.S. Embassy in Antananarivo cannot help you extend your visa.

Screening for Ebola infection may be conducted at the airports.

The U.S. Department of State is unaware of any HIV/AIDS entry restrictions for visitors to or foreign residents of Madagascar.

Minor children:

According to Malagasy law, residents of Madagascar with minor children traveling without both parents are required to have a notarized letter of consent to travel from the absent parent, preferably in French. This requirement does not apply to tourists visiting Madagascar. Please check neighboring countries’ country information for requirements for traveling with minor children.

Find information on dual nationality , prevention of international child abduction , and customs information  on our websites.

Special Note:  Overseas departments and territories of France (e.g., Mayotte) are not included in the Schengen Agreement. See the  Embassy of France  website for further information.

Safety and Security

Civil unrest, such as protests, is common in Madagascar. Be especially vigilant in the vicinity of downtown Antananarivo especially near government buildings, the national stadium, and historical monuments, where violent incidents have occurred.

Violent confrontations between the dahalo (criminal gangs that steal cattle) and security forces have increased in several regions of Madagascar, particularly in areas south and west of the capital.

Often precipitated by rumors or allegations of injuries to local citizens especially in areas where there are minimal security forces, mob violence and “popular justice” continues but is rarely directed toward foreign nationals. Street altercations and traffic accidents often quickly draw large and sometimes unruly crowds. Exercise caution and remain calm if you find yourself in a dispute, particularly in a public place. If you feel threatened by large crowds, immediately leave the scene, seek the direct intervention of local law enforcement, and contact the U.S. Embassy.

The cyclone season in Madagascar occurs between December and April. Please monitor media reports, the RSMC Tropical Cyclone Center , and follow all official instructions.

Exercise Increased Caution Due to Possible Protests and Civil Unrest Related to Presidential Election

The official campaign season for Madagascar’s presidential election has begun. The first round of voting is scheduled for November 16. A second round, if necessary, is scheduled for December 20. Opposition candidates have already called for and staged large-scale protests in the capital, Antananarivo, resulting in violent confrontations with law enforcement. Such protests may continue throughout the election period and may escalate and expand geographically as the candidates begin to campaign throughout the country. Given the increased possibility of protests and civil unrest, we urge U.S. citizens to exercise increased caution and enroll in STEP to ensure access to security alerts sent by the Embassy.

We also advise U.S. citizens that domestic flights in Madagascar are frequently subject to last-minute cancellations that can leave travelers stranded in remote areas without assistance. Tsaradia, Madagascar’s state-owned domestic airline, has a monopoly on domestic commercial flights and is notorious for last-minute cancellations and rescheduling, with no recourse for stranded travelers. Those who book Tsaradia flights through a third-party may not receive any advance notice of such cancellations and rescheduling. Regional airports in Madagascar receive little traffic and will close completely if the Tsaradia flight(s) for the day is cancelled. In such an event, there are no airline personnel present to assist stranded travelers. We recommend that travelers make contingency plans for lodging and local transportation in case their flight is cancelled or rescheduled at the last minute.

CRIME: Petty crime in Madagascar is common in urban areas. Skilled pickpockets are very active in downtown Antananarivo, and they primarily target jewelry, purses, and mobile phones. Additionally, criminals have stolen luggage from baggage claim areas at Antananarivo’s Ivato International Airport by simply grabbing items off the conveyor belt and exiting the airport.

Serious crimes, including home invasions, armed attacks, robberies, and assaults, are common in Madagascar. U.S. Embassy personnel are instructed not to use taxi-bes (minibuses which operate within urban centers) and taxi-brousses (which travel to outlying regions) due to the risk of carjacking and highway robbery. The majority of reported crimes were directed at Malagasy nationals but Westerners have likewise been targeted.

• Avoid walking alone especially after dark.
• Do not display cash and valuables.
• Drive with doors locked and windows closed.
• Always carry a color photocopy of your U.S. passport and visa. Keep original documents in a secure location. Most Malagasy authorities will accept a color photo copy, but you may be requested to present the original.

Violent crime, such as armed robbery and assaults, is common in:

• Toamasina and Mahajanga
• Ankarana and Montagne d’Ambre National Parks adjacent to Diego
• area surrounding Tolagnaro (Ft. Dauphin)
• Batteie Beach, north of Toliara (Tuléar)

Visiting remote sites: While the government has increased the number of dedicated police units at popular tourist sites, only visit remote sites in large groups guided by reputable tour operators.

Exercise caution when traveling through these designated areas due to violent highway robberies:

• The general area south of the National Route (RN) 7 and RN 27 including the RN 10, RN 13, and the surrounding areas. Except the tourist area on the coastal roads between Ambovombe and Farafangana, including Fort Dauphin/Tolagnaro area.
• The RN 1B, which is located to the west of Antananarivo between Tsiroanomandidy and Maintirano.

See the  Department of State  and the  FBI  pages for information on scams.

Victims of Crime:

Report crimes to the local police at 117, 22-227-35, or 22-357-09/10. U.S. citizens can also call the U.S. Embassy at (261) 20-23-480-00 if assistance is needed in communicating with law enforcement officials.

Remember that local authorities are responsible for investigating and prosecuting the crime.

See our webpage on help for U.S. victims of crime overseas .

• help you find appropriate medical care
• assist you in reporting a crime to the police
• contact relatives or friends with your written consent
• explain the local criminal justice process in general terms
• provide a list of local attorneys
• provide our information on victim’s compensation programs in the U.S.
• provide an emergency loan for repatriation to the United States and/or limited medical support in cases of destitution
• help you find accommodation and arrange flights home
• replace a stolen or lost passport

Domestic Violence: U.S. citizen victims of domestic violence may contact the Embassy for assistance.

Tourism : The tourism industry is unevenly regulated, and safety inspections for equipment and facilities do not commonly occur.  Hazardous areas/activities are not always identified with appropriate signage, and staff may not be trained or certified either by the host government or by recognized authorities in the field.  In the event of an injury, appropriate medical treatment is typically available only in/near major cities.  First responders are generally unable to access areas outside of major cities and to provide urgent medical treatment.  U.S. citizens are encouraged to purchase medical evacuation insurance.  See our webpage for more information on insurance providers for overseas coverage.

Local Laws & Special Circumstances

Criminal Penalties: You are subject to local laws. If you violate local laws, even unknowingly, you may be expelled, arrested, or imprisoned.

Furthermore, some laws are also prosecutable in the U.S., regardless of local law. For examples, see our website on crimes against minors abroad and the Department of Justice website.

Arrest Notification: If you are arrested or detained, ask police or prison officials to notify the U.S. Embassy immediately. See our webpage for further information.

Drugs: Penalties for possession, use, or trafficking in illegal drugs in Madagascar are severe, and convicted offenders can expect long jail sentences and heavy fines.

Visa overstays are a violation of local laws and U.S. citizens who overstay their visas will be subject to fines and potential prosecution.

Exporting Gemstones/Precious Materials: The Government of Madagascar restricts the export of precious gems. Before purchasing or transporting gemstones, seek clarification of the applicable laws. Any precious materials should be accompanied by a certificate of authenticity and a certificate to allow for exportation from Madagascar.

Currency: Madagascar is primarily a cash economy. Although some high-end establishments accept credit cards (normally only Visa-network cards), most shops and restaurants are cash only.

Although the government changed the local currency from the Malagasy franc (FMG) to the ariary in 2005, many Malagasy still think in terms of FMG. When discussing prices, you should quantify whether the price is in ariary or FMG (1 Ariary = 5 FMG). ATMs, which generally accept Visa-network cards only, are available in large cities. Dollars are not widely accepted, and $100 bills are frequently refused at banks and local businesses.

Faith-Based Travelers: See our following webpages for details:

• Faith-Based Travel Information
• International Religious Freedom Report – see country reports
• Human Rights Report – see country reports
• Hajj Fact Sheet for Travelers
• Best Practices for Volunteering Abroad

LGBTI Travelers: Consensual same-sex sexual relations are criminalized in Madagascar with and between persons under the age of 21, and Malagasy law contains no anti-discrimination protections for LGBTI persons. Penalties can include imprisonment and fines.

See our LGBTI Travel Information page and section 6 of our Human Rights report for further details.

Travelers Who Require Accessibility Assistance: There is ample public transportation, but entering and exiting vehicles is precarious, and they are not equipped to accommodate passengers with disabilities. Vehicles are often still in motion as passengers enter and exit. There are no sidewalks in the vast majority of the country, and the roads are hazardous for foot travel with swerving vehicles and uneven surfaces. There are no pedestrian crossing signs or designated pathways, and crossing any street involves an element of risk. Pedestrian injuries are common. Public spaces are not wheelchair-accessible.

Students: See our Students Abroad page and FBI travel tips .

Women Travelers: See our travel tips for Women Travelers .

Consult the  CDC website for Madagascar  prior to travel.

Plague is endemic on the island, where outbreaks have resurfaced nearly every year since 1980. U.S. citizens visiting Madagascar are urged to monitor public health announcements from the Ministry of Public Health and the World Health Organization, and to follow public health guidelines and recommendations. Plague can be successfully treated with antibiotics, but it is crucial to seek medical treatment immediately, if you experience any plague signs or symptoms.

See the List of Health Care Providers on the Embassy Antananarivo web page.

You are responsible for all medical costs. U.S. Medicare does not cover you overseas.

Medical Insurance: If your health insurance plan does not provide coverage overseas, we strongly recommend  supplemental medical insurance and medical evacuation plans .

Carry prescription medication in original packaging, along with your doctor’s prescription.

The following diseases are prevalent:

• Dengue Fever
• Chikungunya
• Diarrheal illness
• Tuberculosis

Vaccinations: Be up-to-date on all vaccinations recommended by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

Further health information:

• World Health Organization
• U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention   (CDC)

Travel and Transportation

Road Conditions and Safety:  Road conditions range from minimally acceptable to very poor. There are few pedestrian crosswalks and no working traffic signals.

U.S. Embassy personnel are prohibited from driving outside of major cities after dark. Certain roads in Antananarivo have restrictions on tractor trailers during the day, so trucks use the roads at night and do not always follow the traffic rules. Street lighting is limited, and it is difficult to see pedestrians, carts, and livestock. Additional risks include excessive speeding and drivers that do not use headlights

There are random police vehicle checkpoints throughout Madagascar, so carry photo identification (residency card, U.S. passport) in the event of police questioning. These checkpoints are routine in nature and should not result in vehicle and/or person searches as long as valid identification and visas are shown. However, travelers have reported harassment and bribe solicitation.

If you are stopped at a checkpoint:

• Comply with the officers’ requests. Remain courteous and calm.
• Stay inside your vehicle with doors locked and open the window slightly to communicate. Turn on your interior vehicle light at night.
• Tell the officer you are a U.S. citizen and display your U.S. passport color photo copy through the window.
• Do not leave until instructed to do so.
• Report harassment to the U.S. Embassy.

Please note:

• Local practice is to blow the horn before going around a curve, to let others know of one's presence.
• Seatbelt use is mandatory.
• The use of cell phones while driving, even with a hands-free attachment, is illegal.
• Child safety seats are not mandatory, but highly recommended.
• You are required to wear a helmet when on a motorcycle.

Public Transportation:  Public transportation is unreliable and vehicles are poorly maintained. Rail services are extremely limited and unreliable.

Domestic and international air services operate regularly but are subject to delays and occasional breakdowns. Air Madagascar often changes in-country flight schedules based on demand; flights that are not full may be cancelled with little or no prior warning to passengers. Overbooking is also common. Reconfirmation of tickets prior to flight day is recommended, especially when flying from provincial airports.

See our  Road Safety page  for more information. The Ministry of Public Works, telephone (20) 22-318-02, is responsible for road safety.

Aviation Safety Oversight:   As there is no direct commercial air service to the United States by carriers registered in Madagascar, the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has not assessed the Government of Madagascar’s Civil Aviation Authority for compliance with International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) aviation safety standards. Further information may be found on the  FAA's safety assessment page .

Maritime Travel:  Mariners planning travel to Madagascar should check for U.S. maritime advisories and alerts at the U.S. Department of Transportation’s  Maritime Security Communications with Industry WebPortal . Information may also be posted to the U.S. Coast Guard homeport website  and as a broadcast warning on the  National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency’s website .

Port Security:  The Commandant of the Coast Guard has determined that effective anti-terrorism measures are not in place in Madagascar ports and has imposed conditions of entry on vessels that arrive in U.S. ports having visited ports in Madagascar. Mariners and passengers on commercial vessels traveling through the ports of Madagascar should exercise increased caution.

For additional travel information

• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP)  to receive security messages and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Call us in Washington, D.C. at 1-888-407-4747 (toll-free in the United States and Canada) or 1-202-501-4444 (from all other countries) from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., Eastern Standard Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).
• See the  State Department’s travel website  for the  Worldwide Caution  and  Travel Advisories .
• Follow us on  Twitter  and  Facebook .
• See  traveling safely abroad  for useful travel tips.

For additional IPCA-related information, please see the  International Child Abduction Prevention and Return Act (ICAPRA)  report.

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Check passport expiration dates carefully for all travelers! Children’s passports are issued for 5 years, adult passports for 10 years.

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The Ultimate Guide to Traveling Madagascar, The Red Island

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• Last Updated On: March 17, 2023

Adrift in the Indian Ocean, Madagascar is a country few know much about, and even fewer have traveled to. Being the size of France, but with only 10 main roads, Madagascar is truly one of the last undiscovered areas of the world where one can really escape the influences of the modern age and escape to places hardly touched by the outside world. With otherworldly landscapes, thousands of endemic species of animals, and some of the world’s most beautiful and isolated beaches, Madagascar is a dream destination for the devoted traveler.

Of all the places I traveled to in Africa, Madagascar is at the very top in terms of untouched. I spent over a month traveling through this Madagascar and I made sure to write as much detail as possible in this post to make it your ultimate Madagascar travel guide!

History of Madagascar

Madagascar’s history is key to its development. The island split from Gondwanaland, modern day Africa, long before big predators had developed. Instead of primates, Madagascar developed lemurs, a gentle, unaggressive near-monkey, whose nearest relative lives in South America. There are more than 50 species now, but all have gentle hands and intense eyes.

A stunning 90% of Madagascar’s flora and fauna are endemic, found nowhere else in the world. Even the great Amazon in South America can’t compare to the diversity of life found in Madagascar. This is truly a place unlike anything else.

Its isolation also shaped the island’s culture. The human gene pool arrived by boat around 500BC, when settlers came from modern day Borneo (Indonesia) by canoe. These settlers were then joined by Bantu migrants from Mozambique around 1000AD. Here they blended and divided into numerous tribes, each with its own language and beliefs. Due to the history, the people of Madagascar, also known as the Malagasy , are a very curious blend of modern day Southeast Asian and African.

Arab traders came later on, followed by the French who would eventually colonize the island and also influence the culture and language of this island.

Getting to Madagascar

Madagascar is not an easy place to get to. Flights are expensive and long. All international flights arrive in Antananarivo, the country’s capital. There are just a few airlines that fly to Madagascar:

• Air France from Paris
• Kenyan Airways from Nairobi
• South African Airways/Airlink from Johannesburg
• Air Mauritius from Port Louis
• Air Madagascar from Paris and Johannesburg

Air Madagascar is the national airline and all domestic flights go through this company. They are known to be extremely unreliable and have terrible service. Domestic flights are expensive as well with some of the worst on-time records out there. Because of all the negative reviews I read about this airline, I opted to fly SAA from Johannesburg to Antananarivo instead, paying an extra 300$.

Flights from Johannesburg are 3.5 hours, and are 750-900$ on SAA! Again, not a cheap place to get to and perhaps one of the reasons there is such little tourism here, especially from their closest neighbors, South Africa. Flights on Air Madagascar are ~$600.

Madagascar Visas

Madagascar is one of the few African countries that do not require money for Visas. All citizens from the US, Canada, EU, UK, AU etc. DO NOT  need to get a visa before arrival, and  DO NOT need to buy a visa if the visit is less than 30 days.

Taxi Brousse and Cotisse Bus

For those that do not want to rent a car with a driver, the taxi brousse is the preferred budget backpacker route of getting around the island. Taxi brousses are well connected throughout the island with routes regularly running from town to town for a very cheap price. However, like the rest of Africa, group travel for locals is unreliable and uncomfortable. Be prepare to be jammed in to one of those hippie vans with way more people than it’s meant to fit. Pro tip? Buy two seats so you have more space.

In recent years, a company called Cotisse Transport has helped fill the void for those looking for more comfortable mass transport. Cotisse buses are much more comfortable and run on set schedules. They are of course more expensive, but I would much rather take these than a taxi brousse. Although one trip on a taxi brousse is worth the experience!

Tourism in Madagascar

Tourism in Madagascar is still a young industry. The locals like to think they get a lot of tourists but if only they knew. This country does NOT see much tourism, even during its high season. As it is a former colony of France and French is still widely spoken, the majority of tourists hail from France. I would say that 75% of the tourists we came across were older French people. Nevertheless, we were in Madagascar for a month and we could go a whole day without seeing a single foreigner. Beaches are isolated, restaurants are empty, and national parks are spacious. A very welcome change of pace from all the other African countries I’ve visited where tourism is so developed.

There are many ways to plan a trip here. Numerous tour agencies exist in Antananarivo. I  googled “Madagascar Tours” and there’s at least a dozen websites that do tours of the country. Many options exist.

Getting around Madagascar

You can book a fully planned tour, where one price is quoted including your transportation, park entrance fees, hotels, and food. If you’re feeling more adventurous and want flexibility, then you can also rent a 4×4 with a driver and create your own itinerary.

We ended up with the latter option, and rented a 4×4 with a driver for 20 days. This is the most common way to see Madagascar as the roads are in awful conditions and driving is the only way to get to many of the top attractions. I contacted numerous tour agencies and 50 euros a day seemed to be the going rate but I managed to bargain my way down to 40 euros a day. A steal in my opinion for the car AND a driver.

This price INCLUDES the driver’s accommodation and food. I was so confused by this at first.  Where the hell does the driver sleep? He can’t possibly afford the places we’re staying at. Turns out, most of the hotels have sleeping quarters for drivers, and if not, there are hotels for the “locals” for less than $5 a night. Foreigners are allowed to stay in these hotels as well. Consider them the extreme budget options.

Planning our own Madagascar trip with help

We went with  GMT+3 Tours ,  who were incredibly helpful. I told them the amount of time I had, and the sights I wanted to see, and they planned a whole itinerary for us and reserved our hotels after I gave them our budget. They hire freelance tourism drivers and our drivers name was Serge. He was a great driver and had so many great stories of Madagascar. He’s traveled around the entire island numerous times and knows everything about it. I would highly recommend him! If you’re just looking for a driver and are okay planning everything on your own, please email him at  [email protected]

Tourism is cheap in this country. A high end budget for a hotel is 40 euros a night! Split between two people, this isn’t much compared to the rest of Africa. There didn’t seem to be many traditional hostels in this country as again, tourism is small, and the tourists that come here are old Frenchmen that wouldn’t stay at a hostel anyhow. Food is cheap, beer is cheap, fruit is incredibly cheap. It’s easy to live well here.

How many days is necessary to see Madagascar

Madagascar is a special place. It is also the most undeveloped country I’ve ever seen and this is from someone that’s seen much of Africa. The main highways are 1.5 lanes, pothole infested, questionable roads with no markings on it whatsoever.

It takes awhile to get places, even if you have your own car. We spent almost 4 weeks here, visiting the Tsingy Stone Forest, Morondava, Ranomafana Forest, Isalo National Park, Andasibe Park, and Ile Ste Marie. I’d say 10 days is the minimum amount of days to do this country any sort of justice. Three weeks is more ideal and one could easily spend 3 months here and have plenty to do.

The official languages in Madagascar are French and Malagasy. The former is the language left behind from colonial times and used primarily among the more educated and those working in tourism. Malagasy is the more commonly spoken language. Everyone speaks Malagasy, with only about 15% of the people able to speak fluent French. Miraculously, all 20 million people in Madagascar speak various dialects of Malagasy, and everyone can understand each other. This is a farcry from other African countries where there are dozens of languages in just one country that are completely unrelated to each other.

After visiting Madagascar, being able to speak French is highly useful. I’d recommend learning some basic phrases just to get around as the English spoken in this country is very poor. Thankfully, my French is serviceable and this was a savior in getting by.

The lack of education in this country is alarming and if someone does not work in the tourism industry, or live in a big city, there is a good chance they will not speak French either. Thanks to modern day technology, make sure to download the offline French language pack with the Google Translate app before coming here!

Money in Madagascar

The only expensive part of Madagascar is getting there. After that, this country is likely one of the cheapest places you’ll ever visit. Madagascar uses the  Ariary  as the official currency. It was traded 2,500 Ariary to 1 USD when I visited in Sep 2014, and is trading around 2,700 Ariary to 1 USD upon the completion of this blog post in December. Ariary’s come in 100, 200, 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, and 10000 notes. Yes, the biggest bill in Madagascar is the 10,000 ariary note, or ~$4!!

Since Madagascar is a former colony, the majority of its visitors are French and the Euro is commonly used by tour operators’ in quotinge prices for tours. Many tourism operators recommend taking Euros to the country and exchanging it at the airport. This is a good move but if you have a bank card that does not charge you ATM fees, this is not necessary as the ATMs in this country dispense cash just fine.

Exchanging Money

Long answer short, exchange all money at the airport. Euros are the preferred currency but dollars and pounds are readily available. The exchange rates given at the airport are good, close to market spot rate.

ATMs in Madagascar

As Madagascar’s tourism industry flourishes, so will the availability of ATMs. During my time in the country, ATMs were available in all the bigger cities ONLY . ATMs accept Visa and BNI accepts Mastercard as well (but best to go with Visa to be safe). The ATMs had a single withdrawal limit of 400,000 Ariary when we went (160$)

Cash is king

Cash is the only method of payment in 95% of Madagascar. Only the ultra high end hotels and restaurants accept credit card. We were able to use our credit card just twice during our month in the country, once at a high end hotel in Isalo National Park, and the other at a hotel in Antananarivo (but they wanted to charge us a fee so we ended up paying cash). Even the gas stations do not take credit cards!

Prepare to visit the ATM frequently and prepare to carry around huge wads of cash. 400,000 Ariary is 40 bills and a full tank refill on a 4×4 is more than half of that so money goes quickly!

Food in Madagascar

Most of Africa has pretty bland, uninspired food. With the Southeast Asian influence in Madagascar, I thought the food would be more flavorful. Right and wrong. Madagascar has the potential to create good food. There are a lot of spices, vegetables, and fruits to be had here but the country has not developed its cuisine for tourism yet.

There is a fine line between food cooked for the locals, and food cooked for tourists. The latter is more French inspired than Malagasy. The former consists of rice (biggest part of Malagasy diet), a meat, and maybe some stew for flavoring.

Street food is available everywhere and although dirt cheap (1-2$ a meal), we found local cuisine to be lacking in flavor. The French style cuisine meant for tourists run usually $5-8 a plate and is a bit better, although still nothing like the delicious food you can find in Southeast Asia.

Zebu, Madagascar’s version of the cow, and the locals feverishly vocalize the distinction between zebus and cows, is one of the staple dishes in Madagascar. Considered the most sacred of animals, we ate Zebu almost all every meal when there wasn’t seafood. It’s tasty, especially with some Madagascan Green Peppercorn sauce and Sakay chilies!

Fresh fruit is a staple in Madagascar and can be found on the side of the street, in the market, or pretty much anywhere. Depending on the time of year, different fruits will be available. In September, we found an abundance of pineapples, oranges, mangoes, strawberries, and raspberries. Prices are incredibly cheap. I could buy a whole pineapple cut into small pieces for 1,500 Ariary ($0.60). Madagascar is also the world’s largest lychee exporter and during the month of December, lychee can be had in huge quantities for dirt cheap.

When to visit Madagascar

Madagascar is a country the size of France but has the geological diversity of a country the size of America. There are many different climates throughout the country.

• The area surrounding Antananarivo, Madagascar’s capital, is surrounded by mountains giving a climate that is cool at night
• The east coast is subtropical with beautiful beaches and abundant rain
• The west coast is drier than either the east coast or the central highlands because the trade winds lose their humidity by the time they reach this region
• The deep south is semi-desert, with very little rain falling here

The rainy reason runs December-March, and it is best to avoid visiting during this time. Violent cyclones can hit the country at this time and the roads leading up to tourist attractions like the Tsingy Stone Forest, can be completely washed away. May-October are driest, coolest months, and the best time to visit.

Madagascar weather is beautiful all year around. But when is the best time to visit Madagascar? Find out on  Sunheron , a website that provides you with all kinds of weather information and helps you to find the best holiday based on criteria you choose!

And finally, my Madagascar itinerary

And finally, my four week itinerary for Madagascar. I spent weeks planning this out so hopefully this will help whomever’s reading this in the future. Again, it was good to have a tour agent to help me plan this as I could only do so much research from the internet. He gave me helpful tips like don’t bother visiting Tulear at the end of the RN7 as you’re going to Ile Sainte Marie anyway.

Read my detailed Madagascar Itinerary

Further Reading

To read more detailed accounts of my travels through the Red Island, click on the following posts:

• Morondava and the Avenue of the Baobabs
• Tsingy Stone Forest
• Ranomafana National Park
• Isalo National Park
• Ile Sainte Marie and Ile Aux Nattes

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The Perfect Fiji Travel Itinerary: Beaches, Diving, and Island Paradise

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Brilliant article – stunning country !!

Thank you and glad you liked mada!

did your rate of 40 per day per person for car +driver include petrol?

Cheers Miomir

Not petrol. I would also expect these prices to be higher now as this post was written in 2015.

What a great article! We’re currently dreaming of going to Madagascar again – we’ve been there before and we love, love love it! Here’s to a year with loads of travel plans and new experiences!

I just found your site – and I love it. What great pics and usefulll info. Thank you Benny // https://danmarkmedposten.dk/

I agree with every factor that you have pointed out. Thank you for sharing your beautiful thoughts on this.

Please see my blog, The Ultimate Guide to Writing an Interesting Travel Book Hope this will help, Thank you!

What a great article! We’re currently dreaming of going to Madagascar again – we’ve been there before and we love, love love it! Here’s to hoping for a better 2021 and 2022 with loads of travel plans and new experiences!

– Cirkeline // RejsRejsRejs

If you want even more tips for your trip to Madagascar, you’re welcome to read our article on it here

John!! It’s Annie from college. Googled Madagascar and this page came up haha! Now I really want to go! Hope you are well.

Thanks for sharing this great article Johnny! Very well-written! Hope this will help, Thank you!

I will be travelling to Madagascar from the 7 – 27 of January. It seems that hiring a car with a driver is the best method of transportation, just wondering how this works when you spend days not driving? I read in one of your other posts that the daily price of the vehicle includes the drivers lodging, wondering how this works if you spend multiple days in one place not driving (hiking or relaxing at the beach for a few days) but then would need the vehicle again.

Any information would be helpful, and if you have any suggestions for an itinerary that would be great!

Hi SJ, this was a perplexing question for me as well when I first started planning my trip. The per day price almost always pays for the drivers lodging and food. He does not stay with you but rather at a nearby hotel for locals (much cheaper). If you’re in one place for a long time but you will need the car later, you’ll still need to pay for him to stay. For us, we had the driver for most of our trip but at the end when we went to Ile Sainte Marie, we parted ways there because we were going to the beach. However, you won’t have to pay for the gas since he’s not doing much during that time. As for itineraries, make sure to read my Madagascar itinerary for ideas!

My beautiful Madagascar !!! Thanks for sharing. I share some tips on how to prepare your trips to Madagascar on my Blog https://www.tsiky-tour.com/blog

“Most of Africa has pretty bland, uninspired food.” There is no way this statement is true but carry on………

I should rephrase it to Most of the Africa I’ve been to. Outside of South Africa, Mozambique, and Zanzibar, I’ve not been a big fan of the food I’ve tried. Don’t get me wrong, I still ate all the food and in abundance but it’s just not as flavorful as other cuisines. Just personal opinion

i am very thankful for such an informations i’ve got from the article and comments.

I will go to Madagascar 9th of September for 3 weeks and really can’t think about the best route to choose (and what type of transport to choose). Can you help me with just cue points?

Regards Martin

Hi martin, it really depends on what you want to see! I always recommend the western parts (baobabs and Tsingy stone forest). That will take a week. from there, you can do the RN7 down to the other big parks. Do you want to go to beaches? Then, perhaps spend less time along the RN7 and then fly to Ile Sainte Marie or Nosy Be. Transport for a 3 week trip I’d highly recommend the 4×4 with a driver. Three weeks is not much to see anything with the Taxi Brousse. Have fun!

Hi Johnny, we would like to see the best what madagascar offer.

So Antananarivo -> RN7 -> Ranomafana National Park, Isalo National Park … From there somehow baobabs and Tsingy.

From there is possible to flight close to Sainte Marie,

What are the prices for 4×4 with driver? May you recommend company (some more budget / mid price)?

Thank you very much! 🙂 (we will have a fun mostly because we can’t speak french :D)

Yes that sounds like a good itinerary. you can fly from Tana to ISM and that will save you a few days of traveling. When I went in 2014, car + driver is 40 euros. Nowadays it’s probably closer to 50-60 euros a day. You also hav eto pay for the gas. Contact GMT + 3 as they are the ones that sorted me out with my driver!

Thank you for sharing this insightful post on Madagascar. My significant other and I are medical residents planning to work in Antsirabe for 1 month this October. We are planning on traveling for 2 weeks prior to our work assignment. It would be difficult to cover all the sites an we do not wish to rush our itinerary. What are your “must see” sites in Madagascar that we should incorporate into our 2 week road trip? Did you do any diving in Madagascar, if so where, and was the equipment safe (we are both advanced certified). Lastly, as we will be based in Ansirabe for 1 month, which sites do you think we could save for weekend trips? Thanks for your help in advance!!

Hi Phyllis, since you will be based out of Antsirabe, I’d recommend you save the parks along the RN7 for your “weekend” trips. For your two weeks, i’d definitely spend 1 week visiting the west (the Baobabs and the Tsingy Stone forest), and spend the other one on one of the islands, either Ile Sainte Marie or Nosy Be. I did dive on Ile sainte Marie (you can read about it on my ISM post), and the quality of the shop is top notch as it belongs to the nicest resort on that island. I heard the diving in Nosy Be is better however! Enjoy your trip, you will have a blast!

Hi Johnny, Thanks for the info! Makes my decision easier! Its funny the quotes I got vary from $1600 to $270o per person. Madagascar Natural tour quoted $1600 per person and Ortour $1900 with all inclusive except domestic flight. Gassitour quoted $35/day x 19 days for car and driver only. Ramantour quoted $2700 all inclusive including flight. And GMT quoted $1650 for car/driver and helping us book hotels for 19 days. It seems very inconvenient to me to have to carry a large sum of cash around for 3 weeks since ATMs are not easily accessible so I might go with the Madagascar Natural tour. Thanks again Johnny!

Thanks for all those data points! Gassitour is only charging $35/day for the car and driver? That is incredibly cheap. Too cheap in fact. nevertheless, carrying around large sums of cash is annoying for sure. Enjoy your trip!!

Hi Johnny, Phyllis again. Im in midst of planning my trip thats coming up in 3 weeks and am deciding between renting just driver vs package provided by travel agency. One company quoted $2200 for driver, 4×4 car, fuel, all hotels, 3 day andringitra trekking, Park entrance and guide, and 1 one way domestic flight back to tana for 19 days. I know you only rented the driver and car and sorted out the rest yourself. If you dont mind me asking, how much did u spend total on your trip in total so I have something to compare it to. Also, do you think the convenience of everything prearrange outweighs the cost esp if we dont speak French?

Hi Phyllis, is that price for per person or for two people? If for two, that seems like a great deal. Almost too good to be true.

I had my driver for just over 3 weeks. Each day was 40 EUROS which at the time was 50 USD. Plus the gas was at least another $400-500 as we were constantly filling up. A general breakdown of my expenses

Car for 3+ weeks: $1100 Gas: $500 Hotels: ~$40/night average Entrance fees + Guide: $30-50 per park for two (Tsingy was more)

Just that alone is more than much more than $2200! What company are you using if I may ask??

I’m currently planning to visit Madagascar 2 weeks & Ile Ste MarieMarie 2 weeks in February 2018 – I will be flying to JNB to TNR, i am wondering if you can book just the driver for around two weeks on GMT +3 and how much that would cost? Then after that i will fly to Ile Ste Marie from TNR and stay here for a further two weeks do you have any tips at all on where to stay in the first two weeks and also can you get around on just a rented scooter in Ile Ste Marie?

I will be traveling alone which i why i will be flying to Ile Ste Marie.

Hi Jordan, When I went I paid 40 euros for a car + driver. It is probably at least 50 euros now per day so I would budget around that (note that this does not include the cost of gas). As for ISM, there are plenty of places to stay so it depends on your budget but I really enjoyoed my time on Ile Aux Nattes (just south of ISM)! And yes a scooter is more than enough for getting around ISM!

https://johnnyafrica.com/madagascar-ile-sainte-marie/

Thanks for the swift reply Johnny! I think I will plan Madagascar properly first then and visit ISM, scootering around a pirate island sounds likes the one for me!

Hey Johnny.. Thanks for the great information. Am considering a trip to Madagascar also.. Just wondering if there are places to chill at night there, I know it’s hot a huge party place but is it safe for tourists to go to bars, or are there bars? Thanks, Christine

Hi Christine, aside from the larger cities that receive more tourists (Morondava, Ile Sainte Marie, Tana, Tamatave etc), there aren’t many Western style bars to speak of. We went out one night in Antsirabe and saw perhaps 5 foreigners the entire night. There aren’t many “bars” to speak of. It seems that most peopel just congregate in the streets, drinking and eating all night which is what we did!

Thank you for such an informative post. We are planning/considering a month-long visit to Madagascar in June. The cost is a shocker, getting there from the US, assuming crazy man Trump doesn’t shut us down. We love travel to all places on this earth, and are trying to fill our budget for such a splurge. I’m curious as to what was your favorite part of your experience in Madagascar?

Hi Ron, I know what you mean about Trump. At least you won’t have to fly back from the Middle East if you come to Madagascar. It’s really hard to pick a favorite part of Madagasar. Just being in a place that is so remote and so rustic with landscapes I’ve never seen before made it so special for me.

If I absolutely had to pick a favorite place, I think I would choose the Western area with the Tsingy Stone Forest + Avenue of the Baobabs. Followed closely by the beaches of Ile Aux Nattes and Ile Sainte Marie. You can’t go wrong with any part of the island in my opinion!

Hi Johnny, Thanks for all the info. I am trying to plan a trip going to all of the same places as you minus Mahambo and Sainte Marie! I know you rented a 4×4, but I just want to clarify that you didn’t take any flights within the country to get to your destinations? I don’t like the idea of flying Madagascar Air, but your itinerary (and the one I am trying to plan) seems to include so much driving. Did you feel like you had to spend too much time cooped up in the car, and that it wasted a lot of time, or was there good scenery to look at along the way and a nice break from all the hiking in the heat? Also, did you ever try taking a taxi brousse? Thanks!

Hi Sarah, the Madagascar landscape is nothign short of breathtaking. It’s certainly some of the most otherworldly terrains I’ve seen. I will admit, even with that said, it did get monotonous at times because. The roads are terrible so you ARE in the car for long periods of time but that is honestly the best way to get around in Madagascar and it’s all part of the adventure :). You can take flights from say Tana to Morondava, but you’ll need to have a car once again to get to say Tsingy NP.

We did sort of take a taxi brousse. On the way back from Ile Sainte Marie, the ferry we were originally planning on taking just left 4 hours earlier without us knowing. We had a car picking us up from Toamasina to take us to Tana the same day (as our flight was the next day). Since we were so late, the guy already left and we were on our own. There are regular taxi brousse’s that leave from Toamasina to Tana but we were impatient so we ended up just paying for the whole van, like a private taxi brousse back to Tana!

Great blog…thanks.

Me any my wife travel to Madagascar in early September for three weeks, can’t wait. Doing a similar route than yours from Tana to ISM via Andisibe and Palmaruim, but traveling along the Pangalanes to Tamatave. Decided to use GMT+3 who have already been a great help.

Been on many holidays but are virgin travellers so got a couple of questions if that’s OK

How bad are the mosquitoes as the wife is freaking out about them? Backpacking so any tips on clothing and footwear, how cold are evenings etc? Any tips on key French phrases, its been a while since school and I was rubbish then

Cheers mate

Dean (Leeds, England)

Hi Dean, thanks for the comments and awesome that you are visiting Mada!

1. Would say the mosquitoes are not that bad where we went. Obviously Mada is a very geographically diverse place so there could be places where it’s a bit of an issue. I know Malaria is something to be aware of but I didn’t take any pills during my month there.

2. Mada is warm for the most part. Antsirabe was the only place I felt a bit cold in. As it’s up in the mountains, the temps can drop to the teens at night. But nothing a light jumper didn’t solve (still wearing shorts). Everywhere else I was pretty much wearing a tank top and shorts.

3. Definitely some basic french will help! Most people don’t even speak French but just knowing how to count, and how to order basic food should be helpful.

Enjoy your trip!

Glad I found your travel blog. This is the best travel blog I have read with such detailed agenda with restaurants, hotels, and sightseeing recommendations with prices and websites. We plan to go to Madagascar in July to August 2017. We have 17 or possibly 18 days for the trip. What are “must see” places for Madagascar? We love culture but not too much into the beach scene (not beach worshippers). We are a couple in our 50’s.We definitely are there for the lemurs. Also, regarding the company you hired for the driver-guide with the 4 x 4 jeep, was there any problems during the trip? Was the driver flexible in taking you where you wanted to go?

HI Silvana! thanks for the comments and awesome that you’re headed to Madagascar!

It’s hard to pinpoint my highlights of Madagascar. It’s cliche i know, but honestly everywhere that I visited was one amazing thing after another. I think it’s just the whole package of visiting a place that is so remote and so isolated from developed society which made me appreciate every moment of it.

However, if I had to choose, I would definitely say the Avenue of the Baobabs, Tsingy Stone Forest, Isalo National Park, and Ile Aux Nattes. I know you said you’re not into the beach scene but the beaches here are not just stunningly beautiful but completely isolated from society. https://johnnyafrica.com/madagascar-ile-sainte-marie/

As for the driver, aside from his lack of English speaking ability (I speak enough French to get around), everything was perfect. We came up with the itinerary beforehand and he just drove us to our respective guesthouses, teaching us about Madagascar and Malagasy culture along the way!

talking about the tour operator… so you asked for a english speaker driver and they provide you with a basic english speaker? do the driver tell you about culture and stuff or he just drive?

Hi Axel, yes we specifically asked for an English driver because my friend didn’t speak English. He could speak a few works in but relaly not enough to converse.

Thankfully, I speak enoguh French and had Google Translate so I could talk to the guy. But he was more than inclined to teach me about the culture and customs of the country. He had been a driver for decades and visited all parts of Madagascar so it was extremely interesting getting his perspective on things!

I stumbled upon your blog while researching about a living cost in Cape Town and read about your travels in Madagascar. I was just there in April and had Serge from GMT as my driver for 7 days while traveling solo from Tana to Morondava. My amazing experience of exploring the beautiful Madagascar was made unforgettable because of the incredible service from the kind hearted driver and travel companion, Serge who made me feel at ease as a young woman alone in a foreign country. It was so good to see his picture from someone else’s experience 🙂 and I love reading about your travels! Very informative and helpful. Thank you for sharing 🙂

Hi Yenni, what a coincidence! Small world for sure and I’m glad to see Serge is still doing his thing. He was incredibly helpful with us too and definitely made our trip. I actually just sent your comment to my friend who traveled with me and oh what good memories Madagascar was :). Glad you got to see that amazing place. I still rave about it whenever people ask me what my favorite places are.

thanks for great and useful sites. Me and my fiance are planning our honeymoon in June this year and we are thinking about pretty much same itinerary. Can you tell me tell me approximately the total amount spent during your trip (excluding international flights)?

Thank you very much

Hi Omar! We spent just under a month there. With how difficult it is to get around everywhere, I think the more time the better especially if you want to see a good amount of the island.

Hi Johnny, Thanks soooo much for this info, I am desperately trying to organise myself for a solo trip for about a month at a budget. I’m an experienced traveller who just wants to do my own specific iteniary, and get to the National Parks and hike and see wildlife really, so I’m looking at your account and thinking it could be done by hiring a driver to get me around and then at the parks get some experienced guides as I believe each park has them available for hire upon arrival. Can you confirm this? My problem is, all the peeps I contact regarding a car hire are quoting me for a guide, hotels, foods, blah blah etc and seriously like it is turning into a multi- million dollar luxury tour which is not what I am after! Can you suggest where I look to find just the drivers? I suspect they think as a female I would want this, but no, I am an ecologist so I am used to camping in the bush and I kind of like it! Any way, your blogs are awesome, Thanks again, Nicola

Hi Nicola! I actually had a single female friend travel through Madagascar for a month. She used GMT+3 like I did and rented JUST the driver. She pretty much emulated my itinerary and booked almost the same accomodations as me and it was fine. Try contacting GMT+3 and ask for just the driver.

I agree, the tours are a complete rip off, especially after you see how cheap of a country Madagascar is to travel through. THey are just taking advantage of your unfamiliarity and naivety with the country. Definitely just be persistent and ask for the driver only.

First , I would like to mention that your information is very interesting for the tourist with wonderful pictures . I am an American in Madagascar and resident for 15 years and also a New York City street rat way back when I was a boy.

Also the ariary is now 3,290 as of 11/11/2015 for the dollar but in terms of the local economy they do not see the rise in prices because Madagascar is for the most part a closed society. The Vasaha might- because we buy imported products like refrigerators so we see the reflected prices. I spent less money than I did 10 years ago even though the Ariary back is less than half of what it is today on local products.

Also the locals will use FMG much of the time unless they see you as a Vasaha then it is the ariary so be sure it is one or the other or you could be paying 5 times the amount.

On wards to the real issue I am concerned about and to understand your thinking…….

I read on another travel Blog that you and your friend tip your driver $10 a day and by the end of the trip the tip came to about what the average Malagasy for their position makes in 5 months and that does not include their Salary from the tour company. Would you tip that much money to a driver back in New York City? You did notice that in your travels that Madagascar is a non-tipping society for very special reasons related to customs and culture. You may be interested in this Sustainable & Responsible tourism is the concept of visiting a place as a tourist and trying to make only a positive impact on the environment, society and economy by acting like a local.. Tourism can involve primary transportation to the general location, local transportation, accommodations, entertainment, recreation, nourishment and shopping. Much as we try to improve the benefits of tourism to local people and conservation, many of our holidays require an international flight with its associated CO2 emissions. For more details on about Global ethics of travel read the following.

This is a group effort that includes not only travelers but also hoteliers, tour agencies, guides, …etc

For more details of these code of ethics then visit

Global code for tourism http://www.unwto.org/ethics/index.php

…unwto.org/sites/all/files/docpdf/responsibl…

Responsible is a heavy word and acting in a respectable manner of the culture and customs will leave a positive footprint for others who follow

Hi I did not know about the tipping part of Madagascar! Most third world countries I’ve visited, I just naturally tip because it’s money they need far more than me. I never tipped at the hotel restaurants because they just added it to my final bill when we checked out.

Sadly enough, we tip our taxi drivers in New York City about 15-20%. It’s not even because they provided any special service but something that’s ingrained into the heads of people in America. Terrible actually, but it’s just how things are. But it is good to know that Madagascar is not a tipping society!

Firstly, thanks for the excellent website! My fiancé and I are planning on taking our honeymoon in Madagascar and this site has already been really useful.

I was wondering how safe Madagascar felt in comparison to other countries in Southern Africa? We have read a few things saying that tourists should keep a very low profile, far more so than other places we have been to. How did you feel while you were there?

Also, do you have any suggested companies to provide a car/driver? We would be happy to pay extra for a reliable, English speaking guide.

Thanks! Richard

Hi Richard! THanks for the comment. WHere are you reading those claims? I was there about a year ago and I couldn’t have felt more safe. My friend and I actually walked around Antsirabe at night to join in on some Malagasy concert that was taking place and we had a great time. I’d say it’s no different than your standard African country. I found the people to be incredibly friendly and curious.

Obviously you just need to be aware of your surroundings but that is every country in teh world, your home country included :).

As for English guides, I don’t have any that I know of. I specifically requestsed from the tour operator I organized my tour from that it MUST be an English speaker and he assured me it would be. I show up at the airport, meet the guy, and he spoke maybe 100 English words, hence he is an “English Speaker”. hah, thankfully I speak enough French to get by but yes it would have been difficult otherwise.

Thanks Johnny, very reassuring.

It was something we read on a few travel forums, especially violent robberies in Nosy Be and on the Tsiribihina river. But like you say, everywhere in the world requires a little bit of care. We are just finalising our plans before we go ahead and book our honeymoon for May!

Thanks Richard

Thanks firstly for the excellent website, my fiance and I have been organising our honeymoon in Madagascar and these posts have already been really useful.

I was wondering how safe Madagascar feels in comparison to other countries in Southern Africa? We have read a few reports online advising tourists to keep a low profile, more so than other places we have been to. Is it any worse than South Africa or Mozambique say?

Also, do you have any recommendations for companies which could provide a car and driver? We would be happy to pay the extra for a reliable, English speaking guide.

Hi Johnny – thanks for this post – so useful! One quick question, how easy is it to find a driver on short notice? Is this something hotels can arrange for you? Thanks!

Hi Rebecca! Thanks for the comments. Yes finding a driver on short notice is easy. There are plenty of drivers especially in antananarivo, and any hotel will be able to recommend you a driver. They might not have the most competitive rates however is the problem.

You truly have an awesome blog. I wish I had the time to post such stories and pictures of my travels. I am also a young man in my twenties who lives to travel.

My girlfriend and I are actually planning to go to Madagascar for three weeks, but we’re not sure how to travel around there. Do you think it’s wise and easy to hire a 4×4 ourselves there? If so, would it save a lot of money to do so instead of hiring a 4×4+driver?

Thanks again for your wonderful blog.

Hi Faraz! I definitley do NOT recommend renting a car on your own. I always read about people that want to drive themselves around Madagascar but I just don’t understand why. The roads are probably the worst roads I’ve ever seen from a tourist ready country. If you hire a driver with a guide, they cater 100% to your itinerary so you’re in complete control. They are there to drive whenever wherever you want them to. Most of them have also traveled extgensively through Madagascar so they’ll be able to teach you about the history and offer any personal touches on the sights that you would never get traveling on your own. Being as undeveloped as Mada is, things can go wrong very quickly, and the last thing you’ll want to have happen is to have a tire go out and not be able to speak to any of the locals to get help. And it’s not even that much cheaper! Not worth saving the 15 euros a day in my opinion.

So to sum it up, I think you and your girlfriend should definitely rent a car with a driver 🙂

Johnny, thanks for the helpful and funny info. I’m planning a trip for late November and will likely reach out with questions.

Madagascar still my favorite place in Africa! You will love it. Keep the questions flowing!

Hi It’s am planning trip to Madagascar. Only have 15 days though. What highlights/region could you recommend? Like to end in Ile St Marie….so maybe head East but would like to see some of highlands down South too if possible.

Hey Andy, I think 15 days is enough to a southern circuit, and then either drive to ISM or fly to ISM. From Tana, head on the RN7 which is the country’s main tourist road, down to Ranomafana, and Isalo Park. Then drive back up, visit Andasibe NP for 2 nights and then drive to the ferry to ISM. This might be too agressive of an itinerary because it just takes forever to get anywhere in Mada so you might consider skipping Andasibe and going straight to ISM!

Hi It’s been fun reading your posts and am planning trip to Madagascar. Only have 15 days though. What highlights/region could you recommend? Like to end in Ile St Marie….so maybe head East but would like to see some of highlands down South too if possible.

Hi It’s been fun reading your posts and am planning trip to Madagascar. Only have 15 days though. What highlights/region could you recommend? Like to end in Ile St Marie….so maybe head East but would like to see some of highlands down South too if possible. Thanks

Hi Jonny, I’ve read about your trip in Mada and I’ve found it very interesting! I’m going there next August and I’ll need to rent a car + driver. Could you pls suggest me your driver?

thanks a lot! claudio

HI Claudio! There are a lot of drivers in Madagascar but I had a great experience iwth my guide. He didn’t speak very good English though so I’d only recommend him if you can have basic conversation in French.

Serge – [email protected]

Good luck and enjoy your trip!

I read your posts on Madagascar, all really inspiring. My boyfriend and I are going to Madagascar in August 2015 and we have actually planned to do almost the same tour as you did. I was wondering how much money you spend in total (without plane tickets)? And where did you find you driver? We are planning on renting a 4×4 car most of the time if we can find someone not too expensive.

Thank you for a very nice blog and hope you have time to answer!

Best regards, Sofie (Denmark)

Hi Sofie! Awesome to hear you’re headed to Madagascar! I was there for about 4 weeks and we ended up spending about $2k a person. Half of that cost went to paying for the car (about 40 euros a day which I think is very reasonable), and gas, which we would have to fill up frequently sinc ewe traveled long distances and it was a old gas guzzler of a 4×4.

We also stayed at a higher end place in the Isalo just to see what it was all about so that added to the costs. We did a few dives on Ile Sainte Marie that weren’t cheap either!

It all sounds really amazing! Do you remember how long time it took for you to get from Fianarantsoa to Morondava? I read somewhere that someone said the road between Antsirabe and Morondava is considered dangerous – did you have any troubles there?

And is it possible to get from Antananarivo to Ile sainte Marie/Ile aux nattes in one day?

Sorry for all the questions, it is just really difficult to get much information about the transportation and what is best to do there! And I think it is nice to know before we get there so we can make the most out of it 🙂

Hey again! We went to Morondava first so from antsirabe to Morondava and back to antsirabe and to Ranomafana and Fianarantsoa. From morondava to antsirabe we didn’t experience any problems at all, just a bumpy ride like the rest of Madagascar 🙂

As for tana to Ile Sainte marie, it’s definitely not possible in a day. To go from tana to toamasina is like 8 hours and then the ferry to ism is actually in Soanierana Ivango, about 3 hours North of tamatave and the ferry only leaves to ism in the morning. I’d do what we did and stay in a place like Mahambo, a really chilled out beachside Town in between toamasina and soanierana ivango for a night and then catch the ferry the next morning!

Awesome post! Thanks so much for the detailed info. Currently living in Cape Town and trying to plan my own trip to Madagascar so this is super helpful!

The Ultimate Madagascar Itinerary for 2 weeks

When you think of Madagascar you will probably picture idyllic beaches, massive baobabs and funny dancing lemurs, but on top of that you will cross high mountains, country sides, amazing canyons, beautiful rainforests, limestone rock formations and a lot more. When you travel to Madagascar you will see it is an island of passion with surprisingly diverse landscapes, cultures and traditions and very rich and endemic flora and fauna, a Treasure Island waiting for you to be discovered!

In this Madagascar travel blog I will share the best things to do in Madagascar, tips on where to stay in Madagascar and an amazing Madagascar itinerary to make the most of your trip. Start planning your trip with this travel blog.

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Our Madagascar trip

We explored this beautiful island in 23 days. We started with a relaxing 10-day North Madagascar itinerary along the coast. Then explored the Avenue of the Baobabs and Kirindy Forest in West Madagascar and continued our journey to South Madagascar with a road trip along the scenic RN7.

The journey along highway 7 included some of the best places to visit in Madagascar like: Lake Tritriva in Antsirabe, the rainy Ranomafana NP, the serene and peaceful Lake Sahambavy near Fianarantsoa, Anja Reserve with its ring-tailed lemurs, the beautiful peaks of Andringitra National Park, Isalo National Park and Zombitse National Park.

When planning a trip to Madagascar keep in mind that even within 23 days we didn’t manage to squeeze in all the best things to do in Madagascar, but many of Madagascar’s highlights from North to West and South Madagascar were included in our itinerary.

After seeing the best of Madagascar with its great biodiversity I understand why this 4th largest island in the world is also called the Eight Continent, Rainbow Island or the Red Island. Visit Madagascar as soon as you can, you will not regret it.

Remote River Expeditions Madagascar (RRE) is a small, experienced tour operator offering high quality and personalized services. We travelled in 4WD with a skilled driver and an English-speaking guide with a huge knowledge of the Malagasy nature, culture and history. Because of Stella, we learned a lot about this ‘red island’ and that definitely made our Madagascar trip complete.

RRE is able to customize your Madagascar itinerary to your wishes and needs, from a 1-day tour in Morondava to a 1-week itinerary in West Madagascar or for example a complete 4-week Madagascar itinerary to discover the best places to see in Madagascar. We had a great experience and I would highly recommend contacting Remote River Expeditions if you’re planning to travel to Madagascar. I got in touch by mail and we had quick and reliable communications until our arrival. Their office is located at Chez Maggie, a great property in Morondava that also belongs to the owner of Remote River Expeditions .

Our Madagascar Itinerary

This 2-week Madagascar itinerary includes our route from West Madagascar along the national highway 7 to Tulear. We drove about 985km, excluding the drives inside national parks and detours to hotels. Because of the constantly changing landscapes and presence of several national parks and reserves along the way, the RN7 or Route Nationale 7 is the most popular tour in Madagascar and not to be missed if you travel to Madagascar.

Planning a trip to Madagascar then also take a look at the beautiful archipelago Nosy Be in the North of the country. For my all my  North Madagascar travel tips  click on the link.

This is the best 2-week Madagascar itinerary possible

Antananarivo - 1 night

• Morondava and Kirindy Forest Reserve – 3 nights

Miandrivazo – 1 night

Antsirabe – 1 night.

• Ambositra - stopover

Ranomafana National Park – 1 or 2 nights

Fianarantsoa and sahambavy - 1 or 2 nights.

• Ambalavao and Anja Reserve - 1 night or stopover
• Isalo National Park - 2-3 nights
• Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park - stopover

Tulear (Toliara) - 1-3 nights

Antananarivo (tana) - 1 night.

You can either start your road trip along the national highway 7 in Antananarivo or from for example Morondava in West Madagascar. Because we first explored Northern Madagascar, we decided to fly to Morondava to start the RN7 road trip from there. From Diego-Suarez in North Madagascar there are no direct flights to Morondava, so we had to bridge 1 night in the capital city of the country.

We even had some time left to explore Tsarasaotra Bird Park, close to Antananarivo airport. The domestic flights are operated by Madagascar’s local airliner Tsaradia, a subsidiary of Air Madagascar.

Where to stay in Antananarivo?

I had two domestic flights to Antananarivo during my Madagascar trip. The second time I flew into Tananarive I stayed in the beautiful San Cristobal Boutique Hotel only 4 km from Ivato Airport in Antananarivo. San Cristobal Hotel offers a nice garden, a terrace and a cosy bar with a nice seating area including a flat screen TV. The Wifi is free and worked very well; also inside the rooms!

The hotel has several art-works like photos and paintings hanging around the whole building, something I really loved. This 3-star hotel has quite big air-conditioned rooms with a flat screen TV, coffee & tea facilities and a fridge. I loved their continental breakfast with fresh eggs as well as their coffee. The employees at the reception were very friendly and helpful and made us feel at home. Since you are at Ivato Airport in no time, it’s an ideal base to catch your onward flight.

Morondava & Kirindy Forest Reserve – 3 nights

Before we started with our national highway 7 Madagascar road trip we first explored the best things to do in Western Madagascar and more specific the laid-back town of Morondava. It literally means ‘place at the beach’ and it’s the gateway to Avenue of the Baobabs .

But also tours to Kirindy Forest Reserve and Tsingy de Bemeraha National Park are totally worth it. If you visit Madagascar you can’t leave the Island without exploring Morondava. Check out the best things to do in Morondava in this link.

Where to stay in Morondava?

I highly recommend staying at Chez Maggie . For Kirindy I would advise to either stay in Kirindy Lodge inside the reserve or at Relais du Kirindy. In my blog about things to do in Morondava I also write about Chez Maggie and where to stay in Kirindy.

Miandrivazo is a village that lies on the main RN34 road between Morondava and Antsirabe. It’s a perfect stop to break the long drive to Antsirabe. Kaominina, the Malagasy name for Miandrivazo, is considered to be the warmest city of the island. Because of its geographical situation, there is almost no wind. An interesting place to add to you Madagascar road trip itinerary.

The city is situated at the Mahajilo River and the starting point for boat trips down the Tsiribihina River to Belo-sur-Tsiribihina. You can enjoy swimming near a natural waterfall and observe different animal species like lemurs, bats and chameleons. 

Where to stay in Miandrivazo?

In this area there are very few places to stay. Most of the tourists will drive directly to Antsirabe or overnight in Princesse Tsiribihina Hotel . The rooms here were good and comfortable and there’s Wifi in the main building, where you can also watch TV and have a beer at the bar. There’s also a small pool to relax and cool off.

A cool Madagascar travel tip is that you can apparently walk up to the hill behind the hotel to enjoy an extraordinary panorama. The walk will take you one hour. If I knew this before, I would have left Morondava quite early instead of after lunchtime. We checked-in quite late, even too late to watch the sunset over the river, so there was nothing to see or do by the time we arrived and the next morning we had to leave early on our way to Antsirabe. 

Antsirabe (literally ‘the place of much salt’) is well known for its thermal springs and therefore also called the ‘city of water’. This city is located in the central highlands of Madagascar. From Miandrivazo, it took us 4,5 hours to get there. Because of its geographical location, Antsirabe has a cool climate throughout the year; so don’t forget to pack a sweater and a pair of trousers when you visit Madagascar.

Transportation in Antsirabe

The most common transportation in Antsirabe is the colourful rickshaw or ‘pousse-pousse’, which is pulled by a man on foot or on a bicycle, the ‘cyclo-pousse’. It’s not only for tourists but also the daily transportation of local Malagasy.

It’s a fun way of exploring the city and the owners of these rickshaws are happy to earn some extra money. On the other hand I found it weird to be pulled by this friendly Malagasy man.

Things to do in Antsirabe

Antsirabe is rich in history. You will feel a strong colonial influence through the architecture of the city buildings. The most prominent buildings in town are the Cathedral Church and the charming Hotel de Thermes, in front of the baths. Another interesting architectural building is the Antsirabe Train Station, dating from the colonial period. Nowadays, they only use it for cargo transportation.

Antsirabe Crater Lakes

There are two popular natural crater lakes outside of Antsirabe town, which are worth a visit: Lake Andraikiba and Lake Tritriva. From Antsirabe it took us around 40 minutes to get there by car. There’s a parking space near Lake Tritriva and from there it will only take you a few meters to look down on the blue-opaque green Crater Lake. 

Apparently there are two roads leading to these lakes: a short, but bad road and a way longer but better road. We took the shortest one and it sure wasn’t the worst road of my Africa travels.

Lac Tritriva or Lac Andraikiba? The area around Andraikiba Lake seems to be ideal for walking because of its peaceful and harmonious environment. It’s the largest lake and the closest one to town. 

We only stopped there from a distance on our way to the prettier Tritriva Lake. At Lake Tritriva you’ll have to pay a guide- and entry fee of 5000 Ariary ($1,5) to enter the area.

Crafts and markets in Antsirabe

In the lively city of Antsirabe you have the opportunity to visit various craft workshops, where objects are made from for example zebu horn or natural fibber. For me, these workshops were too much focussed on tourism, but there are definitely some great artists around in Antsirabe. 

To see the real Malagasy life, I would advise you to go to the local market. The Tsena Sabotsy (Saturday market) is the central open-air market of Antsirabe, a good place to discover what the local Malagasy are buying from clothes and vegetables to pots and pans. The vendors were very friendly and didn’t mind me taking their photos.  

The Countryside of Antsirabe

Antsirabe’s countryside is beautiful as well! You will walk through rice fields, small villages and meet friendly locals.

Where to stay in Antsirabe?

Couleur Café Antsirabe is perfectly located near the city centre of Antsirabe, close to the RN7 road. They offer a number of individual brick bungalows, facing a lovely and well-maintained garden. There is plenty of space in the room, with a TV and fireplace and the beds are really comfortable. They offer a WIFI connection in the room, something you don’t find often when traveling in Madagascar. Their restaurant serves good food for diner and in the morning you can enjoy a buffet breakfast with fresh eggs from Antsirabe’s market. 

Ambositra - stopover on your way to Ranomafana

From Antsirabe we were able to take the RN7 (National Highway 7) southwards, with Ambositra as first stop after 90 km along the Route Nationale 7. The RN7 in Madagascar is the 980 km long main road in Madagascar, connecting Tananarive (Antananarivo) to the western-coast town Tulear. A journey along Madagascar’s RN7 highway includes the most famous highlights of Madagascar. 

The city of art, culture and crafts

Ambositra is famous for the quality of its marquetry, weaving and especially woodcarvings. Ambositra is home to the Zafimaniry Tribe and their houses have colourful carved wooden balconies and shutters. The woodcarving knowledge of this tribe is internationally recognized as a world treasure. In some shops, it’s possible to see the artist working on its crafts. A handy Madagascar travel tip is that on Sunday all the shops are closed. As we were there on a national holiday, all shops were closed and we sadly couldn’t find any artists at work.

Madalief | foundation for mothers and children in Madagascar

This non-profit organization with the purpose of giving underprivileged children in Madagascar a better future, was the result of a Dutch travel guide - Remi Doomernik - working in Madagascar and settling in Ambositra. In 2004 they bought a site with a house in Ambositra where nowadays still children live. Apart from that they take care of the meals of 45 children. 

Madalief also helped restoring the nearby school and built two classrooms. They restored about 10 houses and more than 40 women received small loans for starting up small trade to take better care of themselves and their children. Since they couldn’t take care of more children in the home, they started supporting families around Ambositra (40 families in 2019). The foundation helps single mothers with a donation for daily needs, school fees and medical costs. 

Since I thought Remi’s story was quite impressive I planned a visit to Residence Madalief in Antsirabe , 4 miles south of Antsirabe, to add this to my Madagascar travel blog. To create employment and working experience for their youngsters and single mothers from Ambositra they chose Antsirabe because of the touristic route to the south. So when you travel to Madagascar please include this in your itinerary.

The site offers a hotel with 11 rooms for tourists and also a youth hostel, where they welcome groups of children from other orphanages and foundations as well as their own children, to give them nice holidays for little money. We stayed an extra night in this Residence, located in a beautiful area in the middle of the rice fields. 

Visit their website if you want to know more about this foundation and all of their projects and achievements. It’s definitely worth to stay in Residence Madalief on your Madagascar trip and it’s good to know that your money is spent well. 

When you continue the RN7, you need to take the RN25 to Ranomafana through the Betsileo highland region. Hills and rice fields are part of this landscape. The roads are curvy and close to Ranomafana a bit dangerous depending on the weather conditions; road verges can be very soft or roads can even be closed after rain. 

The popular Ranomafana Park is part of the eastern rainforest, which used to take up nearly the complete island. Rano means ‘water’, and mafana means ‘hot’, referring to the many hot-water springs, in this area. Ranomafana is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and became a protected area in 1991 after the discovery of the golden bamboo lemur in the rainforest in 1985. Definitely one of the best places to visit in Madagascar. Ranomafana National Park is known for its tropical rainforests, humid climate, waterfalls, hot mountain streams and different species of Madagascar wildlife.

This large rainforest is home to 12 lemur species. Lemur comes from the Latin word ‘lemures’, which means ‘ghosts of the forest’. Seeing the lemurs up close requires some effort. You’ll need to hike off the beaten path into the forest with an experienced guide to spot them in the treetops. Apart from the golden bamboo lemur, you may spot some other lemur species like the rare Aye-Aye, the Sifaka or the mouse lemur. Other wildlife includes chameleons, frogs and the Malagasy striped civet. Ranomafana National Park is also a paradise for birders!

The entrance of Ranomafana National Park is located on the national road RN25. For the budget travellers: It is possible to get a taxi-brousse (shared taxi bus) directly from Antananarivo or Fianarantsoa, but there is no transportation between the park and the village of Ranomafana.

Things to do in Ranomafana

Ranomafana offers a lot of activities, but because rainforests are subject to heavy rainfall, the weather can ruin your activities. During our stay we had heavy rains all-day long and there was a lot of fog. Even inside the rainforest (where trees and plants provide some shelter) it was almost impossible to take pictures. 

It is highly recommended to pack water-resistant clothes that cover arms and legs when you visit Madagascar, as well as anti-mosquito gels that will keep mosquitoes and leeches away.

Hiking or trekking lovers will love Ranomafana rainforest and its mountain ranges! There are many different hiking circuits that vary in length and duration. Some of the best hiking In Madagascar can be found here. Apart from the hiking, you can enjoy a swim in Ranomafana’s thermal bath. The hot springs of Ranomafana are located across the Namorona River and are very popular among locals. It’s best to swim in the thermal bath on Wednesday, since they clean everything on Tuesday.

One of the other activities in Ranomafana is a night walk along the road – outside of the National Park – where you have the chance of spotting the Ranomafana’s five nocturnal species, including the adorable mouse lemur. The extreme weather conditions kept me from doing this activity. Near Ranomafana NP, there is a research station called Centre ValBio that is open to visitors. They work to protect Madagascar’s unique and biologically diverse ecosystems through conservation science and projects that directly benefit the local people, including rural health care delivery.

Where to stay in Ranomafana?

SETAM Lodge Madagascar is located on a slope of the rainforest, conveniently close to the park entrance of Ranomafana National Park. The lodge is situated along the main RN25 road, but completely surrounded by rainforest. For that reason, it offers stunning views from your private terrace.

It’s a very quiet and peaceful place. The cottages are aging a bit, but they are spacious, functional and comfortable. What more do you need? There’s no Wifi in the cottages but there’s occasionally Wifi in the restaurant area. The staff is very helpful and friendly and the 3-course dinner as well as the breakfast was good. I recommend staying at this lodge when visiting Ranomafana National Park. 

The city of Fianarantsoa is considered to be the capital of Betsileo, located 60 km of Ranomafana. On the road you will pass some wonderful landscapes and small villages. 

Most of the tourists spend one night in Fianarantsoa on their Madagascar itinerary, or to take the train to Manakara at the East Coast of Madagascar. The Sahambavy train station is close to Lac Hotel in Sahambavy, where you can also enjoy a night in a vintage train wagon! They can also help you to arrange train tickets. 

Sahambavy is a small place near Fianarantsoa and apart from the train station worth a visit because of their huge tea plantations and the serene Lake Sahambavy. These beautiful tea plantations are among the best places to visit in Madagascar.

FCE Train (Fianarantsoa Cote Est)

For the adventurous traveller, the train rain ride from Fianarantsoa to Manakara seems to be one of the best things to do in Madagascar. The 163km route takes you through the rainforest, offering very scenic views. It’s the only operating passenger train line in Madagascar. 

In theory, this journey will take about 8 to 12 hours (20 km/h), but in reality around 12 to 24 hours. Be prepared for train failures and bring enough water and food. It’s all about the experience and getting in touch with the Malagasy villagers who use this train to cover long distances to get from one village to another.

Therefore, the train stations are quite bustling with vendors selling food and other goods. A first-class train ticket from Fianarantsoa to Manakara will cost you 70.000 Ariary (19 dollar).

Sahambavy Lake and Tea Plantation

We didn’t overnight in Fianarantsoa on our Madagascar itinerary, we decided to make a small detour to Sahambavy, which is located 23 km from the city of Fianarantsoa. I’m still happy with that choice, since I loved to relax at Sahambavy Lake enjoying the peaceful surroundings. 

Lac Hotel, which lies directly at the lake, offers different activities around the lake. They also have some water bikes you can use to explore the lake, which was great fun!

If you have a chance I recommend visiting the nearby Sahambava tea plantation on your Madagascar trip, which covers nearly 400 ha. They have a monopoly position, as it’s the only centre of farming and tea production in Madagascar. Since we visited the place on a public holiday the factory was closed and there were no Malagasy working in the field, but I liked walking around the plantation chatting with some locals.

Photographer Pierrot Men

As an avid photographer, I couldn’t leave Fianarantsoa before visiting the photo laboratory of Pierrot Men. He has been the most famous photographer of Madagascar for over 40 years. Visitors can buy his books and a huge selection of postcards and poster prints of his photo collection of Madagascar. It’s a unique souvenir to bring home when you travel to Madagascar. If you’re lucky, you can meet Pierrot in the studio. Unfortunately for us, he was at an exhibition in Paris at the time we visited the laboratory.

Where to stay in Fianarantsoa or Sahambavy

I highly recommend staying at Lac Hotel Sahambavy . Lac Hotel is a wonderful and charming hotel at Lake Sahambavy and next to the Sahambavy tea plantation. It’s also close to the FCE train station. The bungalows on tilts at the water are amazing: very peaceful, huge, comfortable and clean. We were given the so-called honeymoon bungalow, the biggest bungalow at the lake with a private terrace overlooking the lake and its surroundings.

Lac hotel Fianarantsoa is also very innovative and eco-friendly. The products they use are organic, homemade and homegrown. They have their own vegetable garden to provide quality and fresh products. The restaurant offers a European and Malagasy menu and the food is good.

Another big advantage is their agreement with the Malagasy train railway, the FCE, to give customers the best quality of service in terms of ticketing. Last but not least, they are planning to build a spa to complete your relaxing stay at Lac Hotel. There’s WiFi available in the restaurant area; it’s not working in the bungalows.

Ambalavao and Anja Reserve - 1 night or stopover on your way to Ranohira

On this part of your Madagascar road trip, you will enjoy Madagascar’s vineyards with steep-terraced slopes and typical Betsileo mud brick houses with local people working on the land. 

Madagascar has several vineyards in the district around Fianarantsoa and Ambalavao. They were originally planted by French Jesuit priests and make about 10 million litres a year for the local market. Along the way you’re able to visit a winery or by Malagasy wines at local wine shops along the RN7 road. You have to try the local wine when you travel to Madagascar.

Things to do in Ambalavao 

Ambalavao is situated at the Route Nationale No. 7 at 56 km from Fianarantsoa and is the most southern part of the Central Highlands of Madagascar. The city is famous for their big Zebu Market that takes place every Wednesday. You can also visit the factory where they produce Antemoro Paper. Once you reached the area of Ambalavao you will notice a change in landscapes. You cannot miss the high mountain peaks with Pic Boby (Pic Imarivolanitra) as second highest mountain of Madagascar. Pic Boby is also the main attraction of Andringitra National Park and another place to visit in Madagascar on a road trip south.

During a photo-stop along the streets of Ambalavao we met friendly Malagasy from the Betsileo tribe who were celebrating their new house. It’s a tradition like a huge house warming where all family and other villagers are invited to celebrate this event together.

They were all well dressed: men wear a traditional cover over the shoulder and women braid their hair. We were invited to celebrate with them, but unfortunately we had to continue our journey because of our planned visit to Anja Reserve or Parc D’Anja, about 13 km south of Ambalavao. The friendly Malagasy people are one of the reasons you should visit Madagascar.

Anja Reserve 

Anja reserve is famous for its numbers of Ring Tailed Lemurs (lemur catta- king Julien from Madagascar film). There are 11 lemur families living in this park. Some other interesting fauna such as giant chameleons and boas also call this place home. 

Anja Community Reserve is a forest, protected area and freshwater lake, situated at a rocky landscape at the feet of the ‘three sisters’ or ‘telo mirahavavy’.

Hiking in the Anja Reserve is another Madagascar travel tip. You can choose between two different circuits, but a local guide must accompany you. The shorter trail can be completed in around one to two hours and you will easily see different lemur families and the variety of flora. Depending on the time you have, you can see the natural cave(s) and climb up the rocks to a viewpoint, with stunning views of the valleys, mountains and villages.

The longer trail includes a hike to the top of the mountain at 1400 meter, where you will have a 360-degree view that includes a view of the city of Ambalavao, 13km away. This trail will take up to six hours. Be sure to wear covered footwear and bring enough water. There is a small restaurant nearby where you can have lunch before or after the hike.

Because it’s a reserve run by locals, all the profits go back to the community. Unfortunately we got the impression they wanted to take advantage of the ‘rich’ tourists by charging more money. After our walk along the short circuit, we were asked to pay extra because we walked an extra small loop.

We understand that our money is very valuable for the local community, but situations like this are not pleasant. Make sure to agree on the circuit (and the time spend on that particular circuit) before you enter the reserve.

Andringitra National Park

Andringitra National Park has been called the Yosemite of Madagascar and has been declared as a UNESCO world heritage site in 2007 and definitely a place that needed to be included in this Madagascar travel blog, although I wasn’t able to visit myself. If you love Yosemite National Park then you should definitely visit Andringitra National Park.

We were not able to add this place to our Madagascar itinerary, which is a pity because it seems to be a hikers paradise with spectacular views and a must-visit if you travel to Madagascar. Near Andringitra National Park lies the Tsaranoro Valley. You will pass this beautiful valley after a visit to Andringitra on your way to Ranohira.

When you’re heading to Ranohira, you will pass the huge impressive rocky hill called ‘Bisshops Hats’ and cross the Ihorombe plateau. The road from Ambalavao to Ranohira is a spectacular part of the famous RN7 with a lot of great photo-stops along the way to capture this beautiful landscape. I’m sure a Madagascar road trip will blow your mind.

While road tripping on this part of the RN7 I was sad we didn’t have enough time to overnight in this area to enjoy more of maybe one of the most beautiful places to visit in Madagascar. After seeing this part, I truly wish I get to chance to travel to Madagascar again to visit Andringitra National Park, Tsaranoro Valley and the surrounding areas.

Isalo National Park - 2-3 nights (trekking inside the park)

Isalo National Park is the most visited national park in Madagascar and one of the natural wonders of the country. It’s mostly known for its incredibly rugged Jurassic terrain that has been formed into beautiful canyons and gorges by eroding winds and rain. On top of these canyons you have breath-taking panoramic views. No wonder Isalo is a hikers paradise and one of the best things to do in Madagascar.

Apart from rock formations you will cross true oasis with crystal-clear water and natural swimming pools. A hike to the Piscine Naturelle and the Namaza circuit are definitely a must-see in Isalo National Park. 

Isalo is also home to rare plants endemic to Madagascar. During your hikes you will discover the fire resistant tree ‘Uapaca Bojeri’ and the small iconic ‘Pachypodium rosulatum’ plant that grows between the inlets of the rocks. Wildlife lovers are able to spot different lemurs, including the dancing ring-tailed lemur, birds, chameleons and other reptiles. 

Hiking in Isalo National Park

There are numerous hiking circuits in Isalo National Park ranging from easy hikes of a few hours to average or heavy multiple-day circuits including camping. Every circuit will show you parts of the amazing landscape of Isalo National Park.

We chose to do a hiking trail including a night at a remote campsite inside Isalo National Park to cover more of the park. This definitely is one of my best Madagascar travel tips for you. It’s not possible to do an overnight trip on your own! We planned our hiking trip in Isalo with Momo Trek. I highly recommend contacting them if you’re searching for a local and reliable agency for multiple hiking-days inside Isalo National Park.

Porters will carry your camping equipment and backpacks directly to the campsite. They follow a different route, so you have to pack a daypack with stuff you really need during the hike (like water, mosquito-repellent, sun cream, camera-equipment and lunch). 

We chose a medium level hiking circuit, a combination of two circuits including one night of camping inside Isalo National Park. The medium hiking circuit offered different sights. The natural pools and the waterfall were unexpected oases among the rocks, where fresh water flows. 

We also discovered cliffs, eroded massifs and savannah and desert landscapes. The visit of the Bara and Sakalava burials gave our tour in Isalo National Park a bit of a mystical touch. The Bara is the only tribe that is allowed to bury the dead inside the park, up to the rocks. If you are lover of history, then this is one of the best places to visit in Madagascar. Visit the temporary and sacred tomb where these bodies are held before the complete decomposition. The tomb is basically a heap of stones. 

In the forest you have the chance to spot lemurs. Unfortunately we didn’t see any ‘dancing lemur’ in Isalo. If you are more into lemurs instead of the landscape I highly recommend visiting the Namaza campsite. Especially in the morning and late afternoon you’ll have a high chance of seeing ring-tailed lemurs sunbathing.

The different viewpoints, for example the climb to Namaza, were amazing with views of the valley. The different shapes as well as the changing colours of the eroded rock formations are quite interesting.

We enjoyed our packed-lunch – arranged by Momo Trek – at the beautiful natural pools ‘Piscine Noire’ and ‘Piscine Blue’ with a small waterfall, we had a freshly prepared dinner under a sky full of stars at a remote campsite and we ended our Isalo trek with a breakfast at the plateau while watching sunrise over Isalo National Park. If you are an adventurous traveller then this is another great Madagascar travel tip.

It was a truly memorable experience and one of the best ones on my Madagascar trip. Make sure to bring enough water during the hike(s), because it can get really hot in the fierce sun. Apart from some oases, the trails offer very little shade. 

Trekking in Isalo with Momo Trek

The team of Momo Trek is specialized in organizing hiking and camping tours in Isalo National Park. They have been offering tours of all levels, for over 20 years. Momo Trek offers a very complete package including guide, porters, meals and camping equipment. 

This experienced local Ranohira operator offers Isalo treks from a 2-hours hiking circuit to a 15-days all-inclusive hiking package including different campsites and expeditions to the remote Makay Massif. You can check the different Isalo hiking circuits on their website. If you want to see more of Isalo National Park I highly recommend a minimal of a 2-day hiking package with Momo Trek.

After a long day of hiking, the Momo Trek staff already set up our tent and cooked a great dinner. We also enjoyed some beautiful polyphonic live sung Malagasy songs by the talented staff members. I loved the combination of their cooking skills and musical qualities. The meaning and sounds of these live sung Malagasy songs made the peaceful and serene atmosphere in Isalo National Park even more special. We were the only ones on the campsite and it felt like we had the whole national park to ourselves. 

I really loved the hiking experience in Isalo National Park. We had a great English speaking guide with a lot of knowledge of the flora and fauna of Isalo, Madagascar wildlife in general and the history of Isalo National Park and the history and traditions of the Sakalava Tribe and Bara tribe. Did I already convince you to go on a camping adventure on your Madagascar trip?

Isalo Window | famous Madagascar tourist attraction

A lot of people choose to do a one-day hike and visit the touristic ‘Window of Isalo’ afterwards. This is a natural window in a red rock formation that frames the sunset. Our initial plan was to visit Window rock in Isalo on our arrival day in Ranohira, but didn’t make it for sunset because we spent too much time in Anja Reserve including several photo stops along the way. I’m still a bit disappointed we didn’t make it there on time. 

If I would do this again I would either choose to spend an extra night near Isalo National Park or to spend extra nights near Ambalavao or for example Andrigitra National Park to spend more hours exploring Anja Reserve and the beautiful granite peaks and views of the surrounding mountains. A lot of Madagascar tour agencies include Anja Reserve as a short stopover on their way to Ranohira, so it’s quite normal, but I felt very rushed and needed more time to enjoy and photograph all the beautiful views along the RN7 road.

Isalo National Park is must-visit when you travel to Madagascar. Because of the low tourist numbers in Madagascar, you will only see a few other tourists, especially when you’re planning to do a longer hike. Apart from hiking in Isalo National Park, there are plenty of other things to do in Isalo, like mountain biking, horse riding and wildlife watching. Because of the dry climate, the best time to visit Isalo National Park is all year-round. Don’t miss out on this stunning park, add this to your Madagascar itinerary.

Where to stay in Isalo (Ranohira)? 

Le Relais de la Reine is a great option if you’re looking for a hotel between the rocks that is close to Isalo National Park. This eco-friendly hotel offers everything you need after a tough hike. They have huge and really spacious rooms and cottages with a comfortable bed and a spacious bathroom. 

Le Relais de la Reine also offers a number of sport and leisure activities in a serene area. The most outstanding and exclusive sport activities are Via Ferrata (rock climbing) and horse riding. On top of that you can spoil yourself with a facial or massage at their professional therapy centre for beauty and massage. The service and kindness of the staff is amazing, very friendly and helpful. Their relaxing pool surrounded by the Isalo rocks is amazing! I would definitely stay here again on my next trip to Madagascar.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park - stopover on your to Tulear

On your way from Ranohira to Tulear along the RN7 I highly recommend to make a short stop at Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park. It’s one of Madagascar’s least known but most accessible National Park, located along the RN7. From Ranohira it takes 1,5 hour to reach this park. 

If you are a bird lover you should visit Zombitse National Park as early as possible to have a fair chance of seeing Madagascar’s rarest endemic birds, like the ‘Appert’s Greenbul’. Apart from that, you will probably spot other Madagascar wildlife, like the Red-fronted brown lemur, the Sifaka or White lemur, the nocturnal sportive lemur, chameleons and the Standing’s Day gecko.

As you approach Tulear – the end of Madagascar’s RN7 highway – you cannot miss ‘Table Mountain’, a large flat mountain that is called the Table Mountain of Madagascar. It’s also possible to climb this mountain all the way to the top, which will only take you about 30 minutes. On top of the Table Mountain you will have a 360 degrees overview of the beautiful coastline of Tulear. The starting point to climb Table Mountain is about 10 km from Tulear. 

Another thing to do in Tulear is visiting the Arboretum d’Antsokay, a botanical garden. According to experts, this botanical garden has 900 plant species of which 90% is endemic to Madagascar. They also state that 80% of these Madagascar plants have medicinal value. The Arboretum is located next to Auberge de la Table Hotel. For guests of Auberge de la Table, the entrance fee for the Arboretum is free.

Where to stay in Tulear?

Since we had to fly back to Antananarivo the next day we decided to stay our last night of this RN7 road trip in Auberge de la Table . At this place you have a wonderful view of the Table Mountain in Madagascar and it has a small swimming pool. For those who have more time to spend in Tulear (read: beach days), I would advise to continue your road trip to Ifaty; a beautiful place along the coast about 30 km north of Tulear, where you can also discover a different species of Baobab: the Fony Baobab.

Antananarivo is the largest city in Madagascar and interesting for travellers who have enough time to visit Madagascar. If you don’t have that much time, I would only stay in Tana to bridge your time between flights. In my North Madagascar Travel Blog I wrote about my short stay in Antananarivo and the Tsarasaotra Bird Park I’ve visited that is very close to Ivato Airport. 

Travel to Madagascar now!

Traveling to Madagascar blew me away. It’s an amazing place on earth, with an intense kaleidoscope of nature, that I highly recommend putting on top of your travel bucket list. In this Ultimate Madagascar Travel Blog I tried to describe the best places to visit in Madagascar, but apart from these highlights of Madagascar there’s still so much to see and do on this Treasure Island that wants me to visit Madagascar again!

This Madagascar travel guide is written by travel photographer Kim Paffen , one of Traveltomtom’s talented team members with a deep-seated passion for traveling to Africa. She traveled for Traveltomtom to this beautiful country and shared all her Madagascar tips and incredible photos in this Madagascar travel blog and itinerary. Check out her Instagram account: ourplanetinmylens .

She also wrote about her North Madagascar itinerary , the best things to do in Nosy Be Madagascar and things to do in Morondava and a complete guide for visiting the Avenue of the Baobabs .

For more Africa inspiration and amazing photos of Kim have a look at her Uganda travel blog or read more about Gorilla trekking in Uganda .

I hope this travel blog and all the above Madagascar travel tips and things to do in Madagascar were helpful to plan your own Madagascar trip. Please help me in return by sharing the link of this article on the Internet. Every tweet on Twitter, pin on Pinterest or share on Facebook is very much appreciated. Also don’t hesitate to reach out on my Instagram account. I’m happy to help!

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How much does it cost to travel to Antananarivo?

You should plan to spend around $72 (MGA316,249) per day on your vacation in Antananarivo. This is the average daily price based on the expenses of other visitors.

Past travelers have spent, on average for one day:

• $29 (MGA127,396) on meals
• $14 (MGA62,524) on local transportation
• $60 (MGA262,261) on hotels

A one week trip to Antananarivo for two people costs, on average, $1,005 (MGA4,427,483) . This includes accommodation, food, local transportation, and sightseeing.

All of these average travel prices have been collected from other travelers to help you plan your own travel budget.

• Travel Style: All Budget (Cheap) Mid-Range Luxury (High-End)
• Average Daily Cost Per person, per day $ 72 MGA 316,249
• One Week Per person $ 503 MGA 2,213,742
• 2 Weeks Per person $ 1,005 MGA 4,427,483
• One Month Per person $ 2,154 MGA 9,487,464
• One Week For a couple $ 1,005 MGA 4,427,483
• 2 Weeks For a couple $ 2,010 MGA 8,854,966
• One Month For a couple $ 4,307 MGA 18,974,928

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How much does a one week, two week, or one month trip to Antananarivo cost?

A one week trip to Antananarivo usually costs around $503 (MGA2,213,742) for one person and $1,005 (MGA4,427,483) for two people. This includes accommodation, food, local transportation, and sightseeing.

A two week trip to Antananarivo on average costs around $1,005 (MGA4,427,483) for one person and $2,010 (MGA8,854,966) for two people. This cost includes accommodation, food, local transportation, and sightseeing.

Please note, prices can vary based on your travel style, speed, and other variables. If you're traveling as a family of three or four people, the price per person often goes down because kid's tickets are cheaper and hotel rooms can be shared. If you travel slower over a longer period of time then your daily budget will also go down. Two people traveling together for one month in Antananarivo will often have a lower daily budget per person than one person traveling alone for one week.

A one month trip to Antananarivo on average costs around $2,154 (MGA9,487,464) for one person and $4,307 (MGA18,974,928) for two people. The more places you visit, the higher the daily price will become due to increased transportation costs.

Independent Travel

Traveling Independently to Antananarivo has many benefits including affordabilty, freedom, flexibility, and the opportunity to control your own experiences.

All of the travel costs below are based on the experiences of other independent travelers.

Antananarivo is a reasonably affordable place to visit. Located in Madagascar, which is a reasonably affordable country, visitors will appreciate the relatively low cost of this destination. It is in the top 10% of cities in the country for its affordability . If you're traveling on a budget, then this is a good destination with affordable accommodation, food, and transportation.

Within Africa, Antananarivo is a moderately priced destination compared to other places. The overall cost of travel here is fair for the region and comparable to Casablanca or Kruger National Park.

For more details, and to find out if it's within your travel budget, see Is Antananarivo Expensive?

How much money do I need for a trip to Antananarivo?

The average Antananarivo trip cost is broken down by category here for independent travelers. All of these Antananarivo travel prices are calculated from the budgets of real travelers.

Accommodation Budget in Antananarivo

Average daily costs.

Calculated from travelers like you

The average price paid for one person for accommodation in Antananarivo is $30 (MGA131,130). For two people sharing a typical double-occupancy hotel room, the average price paid for a hotel room in Antananarivo is $60 (MGA262,261). This cost is from the reported spending of actual travelers.

• Accommodation 1 Hotel or hostel for one person $ 30 MGA 131,130
• Accommodation 1 Typical double-occupancy room $ 60 MGA 262,261

Hotel Prices in Antananarivo

Looking for a hotel in Antananarivo? Prices vary by location, date, season, and the level of luxury. See below for options.

Find the best hotel for your travel style.

Actual Hotel Prices The average hotel room price in Antananarivo based on data provided by Kayak for actual hotel rooms is $52. (Prices in U.S. Dollars, before taxes & fees.)

Kayak helps you find the best prices for hotels, flights, and rental cars for destinations around the world.

Recommended Properties

• Lokanga Boutique Hotel Budget Hotel - Kayak $ 103
• Carlton Madagascar Luxury Hotel - Kayak $ 103

Transportation Budget in Antananarivo

The cost of a taxi ride in Antananarivo is significantly more than public transportation. On average, past travelers have spent $14 (MGA62,524) per person, per day, on local transportation in Antananarivo.

• Transportation 1 Taxis, local buses, subway, etc. $ 14 MGA 62,524

Recommended Services

• Private Airport Transfert Ivato Antananarivo Get Your Guide $ 43

Flights to Antananarivo

Rental cars in antananarivo, food budget in antananarivo.

While meal prices in Antananarivo can vary, the average cost of food in Antananarivo is $29 (MGA127,396) per day. Based on the spending habits of previous travelers, when dining out an average meal in Antananarivo should cost around $12 (MGA50,958) per person. Breakfast prices are usually a little cheaper than lunch or dinner. The price of food in sit-down restaurants in Antananarivo is often higher than fast food prices or street food prices.

• Food 2 Meals for one day $ 29 MGA 127,396

Recommended

• Cooking And Cuisine Tasting From Tana-Malagasy Fine Foodie Madagascar Tour Viator $ 245

Entertainment Budget in Antananarivo

Entertainment and activities in Antananarivo typically cost an average of $24 (MGA105,843) per person, per day based on the spending of previous travelers. This includes fees paid for admission tickets to museums and attractions, day tours, and other sightseeing expenses.

• Entertainment 1 Entrance tickets, shows, etc. $ 24 MGA 105,843

Recommended Activities

• Private Custom Walking Tour with a Local Guide in Antananarivo Viator $ 35
• Private Tour Through the Wildlife of Madagascar and the Kingdom of Rova Viator $ 137

Alcohol Budget in Antananarivo

The average person spends about $9.65 (MGA42,504) on alcoholic beverages in Antananarivo per day. The more you spend on alcohol, the more fun you might be having despite your higher budget.

• Alcohol 2 Drinks for one day $ 9.65 MGA 42,504

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Most transport in Madagascar is by road , and the road network is steadily improving, with several of the major routes nationales (RN2, RN7 etc) having a tarmac or blacktop surface ( goudron in French) in reasonable condition, give or take the odd pothole.

Renting a car and driver

Public transport, by sea and river, tailor-made travel itineraries for madagascar, created by local experts.

18 days  / from 3663 USD

Wild Madagascar

This trip is a tour of Wild Madagascar: discover dusty desert canyons, lush rainforests teeming with wildlife and trek through national parks. Explore the bustling capital Tana, then stop by the beach at Ifaty where you'll encounter forests of baobab trees and wandering tribesmen.

11 days  / from 2417 USD

Dreaming of Madagascar

Tropical island beaches, lush rainforest, stunning wildlife, and the bright red clay houses of Antananarivo await you as you arrive on the beautiful island of Madagascar. Get your fill of culture in the capital Tana, snap beguiling wildlife, and revive and reboot on stunning white-sand beaches.

6 days  / from 1280 USD

A Taste of Madagascar

An unforgettable journey through Madagascar's enchanting landscapes and cultural treasures. From the lush rainforests of Andasibe to the vibrant streets of Antananarivo, this adventure combines wildlife encounters with rich history, creating a diverse and immersive experience.

The overall structure, however, is less of that of a network and more that of a hub (Antananarivo) from which the routes nationales radiate north, east, south and west. Between these axes, the connections are much less sure, with narrow earth or sand roads linking small towns and villages in rural areas. Sometimes these are graded or improved to make driving easier, but they are prone to frequent flooding in the rainy season, and it can take hours to cover a short distance on the map, especially where rudimentary, pontoon-style ferries serve as bridges over the many streams and rivers. Water crossings tend to feature a great deal in Madagascar: think waterproofs and plastic bags.

Getting around under your own steam – on foot or by bike – is covered under “Sports and outdoor activities”.

As long as you’re not counting every penny, renting a car and driver is a good strategy, used by many visitors. Unlike the usual kind of self-drive car rental (which is available but only really recommended for experienced drivers in and around larger towns), renting with a driver gives you the freedom to enjoy the ride while someone else worries about the driving and the vehicle – and of course the cost if sharing with a group comes down dramatically. Most drivers are also guides, so you’re essentially buying a tailor-made trip.

It’s important to have every element of the deal very clear from the outset. Typically you rent the vehicle and driver from a local tour operator (occasionally the driver is the vehicle owner) for an agreed route and duration. The driver will look after fuel and will have his own overnight costs and meal allowance included: if you sometimes choose to invite him to your table (as many travellers do) that comes out of your pocket. You should be careful to allow for diversions: a 20km side trip will not be considered part of the deal if you didn’t request it to begin with.

Most driver-and-vehicle deals will include a 4x4 (a quatre-quatre or kat-kat ) in good condition. Bear in mind that fuel costs around €1/litre and while you may get 20–30mpg on the highway (9–15 litres/100km), on rough earth or sand roads that may go down to 10mpg or less (28 litres/100km or more). Also remember that while you may only want to drive in one direction, the vehicle is likely to be going back empty. A typical cost for a journey like this on the classic RN7 route from Antananarivo to Tuléar (or the reverse) over five days and four nights, staying on tarmac, would be between €800 and €1000. Of this, the driver himself will see perhaps €100, with another €50 for his per diem, and fuel accounting for around €200 of the roughly 1900km round trip.

If you’re travelling on a low budget, you’ll be using the slow and cheap shared taxis brousse (bush taxis, or taxi-be in Malagasy). These are privately or cooperatively owned minibuses running regular services, to a vaguely adhered-to timetable. The most upscale services run on the main roads with a high volume of traffic, allowing them to leave on time, take regular comfort stops and meal breaks and allocate each passenger a seat, sometimes in a vehicle that is air-conditioned. You can often reserve seats in these navettes (shuttles).

At the other end of the taxi-be spectrum, the vehicle is held together by willpower alone and the driver leaves only when it’s full to bursting – and then continues to cram passengers in en route. Journeys like this can be maddeningly slow, uncomfortable and utterly unpredictable, especially off the beaten track, or in the rainy season, when a taxi brousse ride can last for days. In such circumstances, the journey can develop a weird, bubble-like character all of its own, with the passengers grabbing a few hours sleep in the bush or in a cheap guesthouse while a ferry is fixed or a puncture repaired, and everyone asking each other how much longer it can possibly take and whether the driver is really up to the job.

Taxi brousse fares vary widely depending on route and passenger volumes (it’s the slowest journeys in the remotest and poorest districts that always cost the most), but reckoning on 10,000ar per 100km is a good guide, with shorter distances costing proportionately more. As a guide, you should expect to pay around 40,000–70,000ar for a journey from Tana to one of the coastal towns. Seats at the front, with seat belts, usually cost 50–100 percent more.

Bush taxis have a taxi park in every town, and sometimes more than one for different directions – known interchangeably as a gare routière , station des transports or stationnement . These can sometimes be a little overwhelming, even intimidating, as over-eager touts desperate for commission jostle for your business. If you arrive at the taxi park by town taxi, try to enlist your driver’s help in booking a seat on a vehicle that is about to leave: don’t allow yourself to become passenger bait by being persuaded to accept a ride in an empty vehicle that won’t be leaving for hours. This means holding onto your luggage rather than having it loaded onto the roof right away. On the subject of luggage, an ordinary bag of 20kg or so should be free. Extra luggage attracts a negotiable supplement.

Transport in towns

Urban transport varies from town to town: depending on the location, you’ll find battered Renault 4L (pronounced “ quatre-elle” ) taxis – the town taxis, sometimes called taxis-ville to distinguish them from taxis brousse and larger taxis-be , alongside Bajaj motorized trishaws (tuk-tuks), cyclo-pousses (cycle rickshaws) and pousses-pousses (handcarts) all competing for your business. Short rides cost 1000–5000ar depending on the vehicle and the town, and are always somewhat more at night. Always establish the price before climbing aboard.

Town taxis are usually amenable to being rented for several hours or for a particular journey out of town: think in terms of 30,000ar for a morning or afternoon around town, or perhaps 80,000ar for a 30km half-day round trip to a nearby location. A full day out of town in a 4L taxi, based on rental only and covering perhaps 100km, should cost no more than 120,000ar. When you’re making such ad hoc arrangements for longer rides with a cab driver, you should be quite clear where you want to go and how far it is, and that he is paying for the fuel.

Despite its ropey reputation for reliability, Air Madagascar ’s safety record is actually very good. Which is just as well as, apart from a handful of very small charter operators, there’s really no alternative to using the much-maligned national carrier. As most of your target destinations are likely to be around the coast of the island, and most road journeys to them from Tana take longer than a day, it makes sense to use Air Mad (as it’s known, with resignation rather than affection) for some of your travel. It’s worth knowing, however, that there are few flights between regional towns, making it hard to avoid returning several times to Tana.

As a rough guide, the average cost of a typical one-hour flight from Tana to a regional town is about €150–200 one-way (you can pay in euros at a slightly poor rate of exchange, or in ariary). You should reconfirm your next flight at every opportunity (giving any available contact number), and check in at least two hours before departure. If you check a bag into the hold, remove valuables before doing so, and keep your baggage coupon as it’s sometime requested on arrival before you can leave the hall. Flights may or may not have allocated seats: check which it is when you check in, and if you want a particular seat, wait at the front of the line or near the door of the departure lounge to make a quick getaway. In the event that you can’t fly or they can’t fly you, tickets bought at full fare are fully refundable. And Air Mad treats the frequent casualties of its delayed flights quite well: you’ll be lodged in a hotel and given meal tickets.

We’ve given approximate frequencies for Air Mad connections in the “Arrival and departure” sections for each town. As you plan, it’s worth remembering the major discounts on domestic flights if you use Air Mad for your international booking.

Madagascar airports

As of April 2015, Air Madagascar’s network was restricted to the following airports. A useful resource for checking what routes are operational is Flightmapper ( flightmapper.net ).

Antananarivo (Ivato International)

Antalaha (Antsirabato)

Diego Suarez (Arrachart)

Fort Dauphin (Tôlanaro)

Île Sainte Marie (Sainte Marie)

Majunga (Amborovy)

Maroantsetra

Nosy Be (Fascène)

Tamatave (Toamasina)

Tuléar (Toliara)

Madagascar’s rail travel options are reduced to a pair of cheap, fabulously decrepit and limited services: one run by Madarail between Moramanga and Tamatave ( bit.ly/Madarail ) and the other the Fianar–Côte Est railway between Fianarantsoa and Manakara. Each line has in theory two services a week in each direction. Reservations are all but impossible: show up at the station the day before and allow a good-sized window in your schedule before making any other plans. The unique old Micheline – effectively a bus with pneumatic tyres, but on rails (named after the tyre-manufacturer; bit.ly/Micheline ) – was once a feature of Madagascar tourism, but has ceased regular operations: one or two of the ancient vehicles are just about viable for special charters.

There is very little passenger shipping except for small ferries and motorboats running over quite short distances. Sea travel is most viable in the sheltered waters of the Mozambique Channel on the west coast , where captains of cargo vessels (sailing dhows known as boutres ), or smaller inshore dugouts and outrigger canoes, can sometimes be persuaded to take fare-paying passengers along the coast – though you tend to be treated as a piece of last-minute cargo. Take waterproofs, seasickness tablets and plenty of drinking water and snacks.

On the east coast the seas can be very rough and the scheduled small passenger ferries between Soanierana-Ivongo and Île Sainte Marie (sometimes including a service to Maroantsetra) are often cancelled. Also on the east coast, there are a few freight barges and tourist vessels plying the Canal des Pangalanes, but nothing regular. There are no ferries around the southeast of the island.

On the rivers , while there are plenty of short and sometimes alarming ferry crossings to look forward to (if you venture far off the beaten track), nobody is using the long, meandering rivers of the west for normal passenger transport. However, these – principally the Tsiribihina, Manambolo and Mangoky – are the watercourses on which adventure tourism operators run river journeys, using inflatables, kayaks and one or two larger vessels. Whenever you’re travelling on water, be sure to ask for a life jacket: all vessels should carry them.

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written by Andy Turner

updated 26.04.2021

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