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The Best Bike Lock

By Duncan Niederlitz and Eve O'Neill

Although pandemic-related bike shortages have eased, bike thieves are still a persistent plague . The first line of defense: a good bike lock.

To find the best bike lock, we ordered 33 of the toughest we could find and then sawed, chopped, and cut them to pieces.

We learned that almost every lock can be defeated in under a minute, but the Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-7 offers enough of a security advantage over other locks in its price range to keep a modest commuter bike from becoming an easy target for thieves.

Everything we recommend

Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-7 With Double Loop Cable

The best bike lock.

With a dual-locking hardened 13 mm shackle, an included cable, and a free year of anti-theft protection, the Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-7 is a good deterrent at a reasonable price.

Buying Options

Upgrade pick.

Kryptonite New-U New York Fahgettaboudit Mini

An even stronger lock.

This lock is more secure than our top pick, but it also weighs a lot more.

Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Chain

Best chain for the money.

If you need more length in your lock and weight is of little concern, the 10-pound Fahgettaboudit Chain is really tough.

Kryptonite Keeper 585

A medium-security folding lock.

This relatively lightweight folding lock can wrap around odd angles more easily than a U-lock and is more secure than a cable lock—but it’s not nearly as strong as a chain, and it’s pricey, too.

Things to know

No lock can keep a determined thief at bay forever . But a good one might persuade that thief to move on to an easier target.

Using hacksaws, two sizes of bolt cutters, cordless drills, and angle grinders, we destroyed 33 bike locks from 14 companies .

Our main pick , upgrade pick , and favorite chain come with insurance, but you have to register your lock for it to take effect.

The insurance on our upgrade pick covers bikes in Manhattan (unlike our main pick’s).

The Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-7 should withstand attacks from everything but power tools under most circumstances.

Once our testing began, we immediately saw the huge advantage this lock had over the competition: Its 13-millimeter hardened shackle (the big U-shaped loop that gives U-locks their name) can withstand bolt cutters, eliminating a large percentage of potential thieves.

Measuring 7 inches long and weighing a little under 3 pounds, it’s the perfect size for most people—long enough to lock the wheel and frame of most bicycles to a rack while leaving almost no room for someone to wedge a pry bar or a car jack inside it.

On top of that, the shackle in this design has an additional cutout at the end, which makes rotating (and therefore removing) it after cutting it even more difficult.

The New-U Evolution Mini-7 uses a disc-detainer locking mechanism, which is much harder to pick than a typical wafer lock and should foil all but the most savvy criminal using specialty tools.

It also comes with a 4-foot cable to secure the front wheel, plus a free year of Kryptonite’s anti-theft protection . Two caveats on the latter: You must register your lock within 30 days of buying it, and the anti-theft protection on this lock does not apply to residents of Manhattan, where theft is very high. (The company’s New York lock series—including our upgrade pick and the chain pick below—is covered even in Manhattan.)

With an 18 mm dual-locking hardened shackle, the Kryptonite New-U New York Fahgettaboudit Mini held up better than any other lock—except one—against cutting attacks. (That exception is the Hiplok D1000, which costs $300; see “ What about the Hiplok D1000? ” for more about it.) Even with a powered cut-off wheel, our testers took over a minute to make the two cuts necessary to remove it—four times longer to grind through than with the New-U Evolution Mini-7. However, this lock doesn’t come with a cable, and it weighs almost 4.5 pounds, a full pound and a half more than the Mini-7. But if you’re in a high-risk area, and can’t spend $300, this lock is the one to buy. Like our top pick, it uses a very secure disc-detainer mechanism, and it’s long enough to fit around your bike’s frame and your wheel without becoming too cumbersome. For extra peace of mind, it also comes with a free year of the highest level ($5,000) of anti-theft coverage from Kryptonite. (Again, you have to register your lock within 30 days of purchase for the coverage to take effect.)

If you want to secure more than just your bike frame and wheel, if you have a cargo or electric bike that needs a longer lock, or if your favorite spot to lock up is around a street post, go with the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Chain , which is one of the toughest chain locks we tested. We encountered other chain locks that were harder to cut through, but they either cost more or weighed more. It has 3 feet of 14 mm hardened links held together by a 15 mm Kryptonite New York Disc Lock, and it should keep all but the most determined thieves at bay.

If security is your only concern, we recommend skipping a folding lock altogether because the rivets are easy to break. But there are a few special requirements that folding locks can accommodate that other options can’t: You can lock them around large or strange shapes like handrails or lamp posts, they’re much sturdier than cables, and they’re a lot lighter than chains (and a pound lighter than our top U-lock pick, even minus its cable). We believe the Kryptonite Keeper 585 offers the best combination of security, weight, and price among folding locks. It also comes in a longer, 100 cm (39-inch) version, the Keeper 510 .

The Keeper 585 measures 85 cm (32 inches) long, weighs 1.7 pounds, has 3 mm hardened steel rivets, and comes with $500 of anti-theft protection from Kryptonite. Is your bike worth thousands more than $500? That should tell you everything you need to know—get a stronger lock.

The research

Why you should trust us, who this is for, how we picked, how we tested, our pick: kryptonite new-u evolution mini-7 with double loop cable, upgrade pick: kryptonite new-u new york fahgettaboudit mini, also great: kryptonite new york fahgettaboudit chain, also great: kryptonite keeper 585, what about the hiplok d1000, other good bike locks, the competition, care and maintenance.

Duncan Niederlitz has worked in the bicycle industry since 2002 on both coasts of the United States, as well as abroad. He has owned many of the locks we’ve tested and has worked at shops selling all of them, occasionally having to cut them off bikes. Between that and the work he did for this guide, he has spent hundreds of hours researching, selling, using, and testing bike locks.

Eve O’Neill, a former senior staff writer covering outdoor gear for Wirecutter, started in 2014 as our first bike reporter.

We contacted John Edgar Park , an avid lock-picking enthusiast and instructor with over 20 years of experience, and we sat down together to review all the locks we had received to vet them for lock-picking vulnerabilities. In addition, we made arrangements to get in touch with a lock-picking group, and we visited on a night with a presentation on high-security disc-detainer locks. The meeting was in an unmarked room in an unmarked building, and everyone who gave a presentation used their Def Con code names.

We also corresponded with Mark Podob of Metlab , a heat-treating and metallurgic-consulting company, to gain insight into how locks are constructed.

We ended up choosing four Kryptonite locks, and we know how that kind of thing can look. But we think the data speaks for itself. Duncan was working at a bike shop in 2004 when the Bic pen fiasco went down (he appeared on the local news station demonstrating the technique), so we approached this guide with a skeptical view regarding any lock manufacturer’s claims.

If you ride a bike and ever need to leave it unattended, you should carry (and use) a sturdy bike lock—at least if you want the bike to be there waiting for you when you return. And if you live in an area where garage or apartment-building bike-room break-ins are common, you may even want to lock your bike up when it’s seemingly safe at home, too. Unfortunately, as we’ve discovered through both our testing and our own painful experience, no lock can keep a determined bike thief at bay forever. However, a good one might persuade that thief to move on to a less well-defended target.

We spent many hours researching all the locks available from the major brands in the bicycle industry, attended trade shows to see not-yet-available options, reviewed earlier versions of this guide, and searched for well-reviewed locks from smaller companies or lesser-known brands.

Manufacturers make locks in a range of similar styles. Considering their supposedly different levels of security and proprietary ratings systems, however, it can be hard to decide which locks are comparable, other than blindly going by price or researching the ratings from independent organizations such as ART in the Netherlands and Sold Secure in England. Unfortunately these institutions use different rating scales, and not all lock manufacturers submit all of their locks to be tested. And although these independent labs return a rating, they do not make the reasoning behind the rating (or the tests they used to come to that conclusion) available to the public, so looking at their ratings still gave us only a rough idea of the security of any one lock.

We decided that our only way forward was to order the most expensive locks from every company we could and test them to destruction to set a baseline for what each company considered its highest level of security. We then ordered the budget locks from our previous guide, as well as some of the upgrades from companies that had finished well in our first round of tests, and destructively tested all of those, too. We eventually destroyed 35 locks from ABUS, Altor, Artago, Blackburn, Foldylock, Hiplok, Knog, Kryptonite, Litelok, Master Lock, OnGuard, RockyMounts, Schlage, and TiGr.

To truly test the effectiveness of a bike lock, you have to think like a bike thief. From our experiences working in shops over the years and interviewing professional bike thieves (yes, we’ve done that), we created a list of the most common tools that bicycle thieves use to defeat bike locks. It became the checklist that each model in our group of locks would need to survive to become a pick.

To be clear, the following is not a guide to stealing bikes. But to assess the security of bike locks, you have to really understand how they get stolen in the first place.

Lock picks: These require a lot of skill to use, and different locks require assorted tools and pose varying degrees of difficulty to pick. However, once a thief has the tools and the proficiency to quickly open a particular lock, the process merely becomes a matter of walking the streets and looking through racks of bikes for a target lock they recognize as being easy to open.

Cable cutters: Thieves carry out a large number of bike thefts (possibly most of them) using a simple pair of diagonal wire cutters. Unfortunately, the only reason simple diagonal cutters are so effective is that many people continue to lock their bicycles using just a braided steel cable and a padlock or a basic cable lock , even though such devices should be used strictly as accessory locks in most situations. A good set of bypass cutters can cut these locks in a single pass, and a tiny set of diagonal cutters can do so with multiple snips.

Bolt cutters: During Duncan’s work in shops over the years, he has heard hundreds of stolen-bike stories and has seen many cut locks, and most of them (not including snipped cable locks) have been cut with bolt cutters. Bolt cutters can be quite small and are quick to cut through certain kinds of locks.

Hacksaw: A hacksaw can work through a nonhardened lock quickly. Most chains from the hardware store, cheap U-locks, and cable locks can be defeated with a hacksaw. A hacksaw can be slow on a thicker lock, may catch and bind while trying to cut through a cable, and takes some physical effort to use in general.

Cordless drill: This is a rarer tool for bike thieves, as it works well on only a few types of locks, and most of those are also easier to defeat using other methods. But occasionally drills do see use (most often during an attempt to drill out a lock’s core). The locks that drills work well on (such as folding locks ) have become more popular, though.

Angle grinder: A thief with a battery-powered angle grinder will defeat any lock if given enough time—even the Hiplok D1000, though the thief had better be carrying a pile of spare disc blades to crack that lock. For the thief, the biggest drawback of a grinder is the noise and sparks it emits as it grinds through hardened steel. In the past, cordless tools didn’t have the power for such uses, but battery technology has advanced enough that they can perform just as well as their corded counterparts, and thus they have changed the landscape of bicycle security. It’s hard not to notice one of these tools, but a thief who can mask the noise and is brazen enough to use one will probably be successful in stealing the bike.

We did not pry open any locks with car jacks, because the jack would have to fit inside the shackle. You can make that kind of attack more difficult by using good locking technique, which means choosing a lock size that leaves very little room inside the shackle to fit a tool—all of the locks we tested were too small to accommodate a jack.

After we had our list, we needed to decide how the results of the tests would allow us to rank the locks. We believe that any form of security is only as good as its weakest part—think of a locked house with an open window, for instance, or a computer operating system with a backdoor. So we decided that the more quickly a lock could be opened, regardless of how well it performed in other respects, the lower it would score.

The first test would show if any of the locks could be picked (some could). The second would reveal whether any would fall victim to bolt cutters (some did), hacksawing (sadly), or drilling (no problem). The last would demonstrate how long each lock would take to cut through with an inexpensive portable angle grinder (quicker than you might think). After we completed all the tests, we ranked the locks based on their security and price to see where they stood, and then we factored in features such as durability, weight, portability, and ease of use.

The testing methods

Lock picking.

We contacted John Edgar Park , an avid lock-picking enthusiast and instructor with over 20 years of experience, and we sat down together to review all the locks we had received. With a quick visual inspection and a few pokes from one of the many pointy tools he had brought along in a folding leather pouch, Park immediately singled out how each mechanism worked and the easiest way to defeat each lock. Park also taught us how to pick a lock, which he managed to do to one model in less than 30 seconds. It’s a simple raking technique (video) that requires little skill and basic tools; someone could do it with a couple of pieces of scrap metal from a car’s wiper blade or a pair of bobby pins. And we had always thought MacGyver was a joke!

Just to be sure, we also got in touch with a lock-picking group, and we visited on a night with a presentation on disc-detainer locks, a type of high-security mechanism used in some bike locks. The meeting was in an unmarked room in an unmarked building. We learned that even the more basic disc-detainer locks we brought were very hard to pick, and nobody at the meeting had the proper tools to fit the smaller keyways most bicycle locks use. As a result, we came away confident that disc-detainer styles were secure against most lock-picking thieves.

In February 2021, a YouTube expert who goes by the name LockPickingLawyer posted a video in which he said that tools for picking disc-detainer locks were becoming more common—in fact, he designed one himself that’s now available online and that he used to open our top pick in 46 seconds and our upgrade pick in 58 seconds. Given that the brute-force methods we tried took even less time to destroy a lock, though, we remain less worried about lock picking than we do about bolt cutters and angle grinders.

Bolt cutters

The next test: bolt cutters. These tools are available at any home improvement store and usually make a sound during a theft only after it’s too late, when the lock splits apart and the thief is off with your bike. You could be within 20 feet of your bike and still not hear it. For our tests we used cutters of two lengths, a 24-inch HDX pair from Home Depot and a 36-inch Tekton 3421.

Some of the locks we tested claimed to be resistant, but most of them fell to our bolt cutters eventually. The easiest U-locks to cut through appeared to be only case-hardened , which seems to do little to stop bolt cutters since the tool’s jaws can crush and split the softer metal underneath the hardened shell. More expensive locks are hardened more thoroughly, via a different heat-treating process .

We weren’t expecting notable results from the hacksaw test, as even modest case-hardened steel usually deters a hacksaw. However, the Altor and TiGr locks we tested were both made of titanium, which is tough but not very hard, and the hacksaw proved that: With the hacksaw, we cut through each lock, held in a vise, in less than 30 seconds. Using the vise probably resulted in a cut time quicker than that of most real-world scenarios, but practiced thieves have vise-like tricks (using zip ties or leaning against the bike to steady it). The RockyMounts U-lock we tested used stainless steel, a material rarely found in bicycle locks, which to our eyes appeared to have been left unhardened; despite the lock’s large shackle diameter, our hacksaw cut through in just 90 seconds.

Cordless drill

Although a small cordless drill is louder than bolt cutters, it’s still barely noticeable over the sounds of a busy street. The drill we used in our testing was a 12 V Milwaukee Fuel, which is small enough to put into a jacket pocket. While the Altor gave in to the bolt cutters and the ABUS Folding Lock Bordo Granit X-Plus did as well after much effort on our part, the drill easily defeated both. A quick look was all we needed to see that the hinge was probably the weakest component of each system, and we quickly removed the locks by drilling straight through the rivet holding the hinge together.

Angle grinder

We knew all the locks would fall to the 7,000 rpm of an aluminum-oxide disc—we just weren’t sure how long it would take. After years of hearing anecdotes from bike-shop customers, reading marketing literature, and removing the odd lock here and there, we expected it would take more than a minute for us to complete one cut.

We charged all the batteries we had for our cordless grinder, made extra coffee, and mentally prepared for the hours of grinding that lay ahead of us. Then the first lock took 14 seconds to cut through. The next, 15. Some of the locks couldn’t survive past the 10-second mark; the thickest and strongest ones resisted for only 30 seconds before we made one cut. (In 2022 and 2023, we took an angle grinder to the Hiplok D1000 U-lock, which its makers says resists angle grinders. See “ What about the Hiplok D1000? ” for the results.)

We learned that no lock available at the time (2017) could resist cutting for more than a minute against modern tools, even if it was a chain or had a dual-locking shackle and needed two cuts for removal. Granted, we did these tests under ideal circumstances with each lock in a vise to create an equal setting for the locks, but after testing locks in more awkward and unrestrained positions and seeing only a marginal increase in time, we can say that our results aren’t too far off from what you can expect in the real world. Even if it’s painfully obvious that a bike is being stolen, it seems to barely cause any alarm or attract attention, as demonstrated in one of our favorite videos .

So why bother to lock a bike? It unfortunately comes down to beating the bike owners around you—after all, you don’t need to outrun the bear, you just need to outrun the other person with you. If you can ride a less expensive bike and lock it up properly with a better lock in a safer location, you can remove the temptation for a thief to pick your bike over an easier target.

The Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-7 U-lock incorporates a wider combination of theft-resistant features than almost anything we’ve looked at that isn’t twice the price or twice as heavy. It has a more thoroughly hardened, dual-locking shackle, which lesser locks don’t have, and it’s outfitted with a more secure disc-detainer locking mechanism. It also comes with a 4-foot cable and a free year of the company’s anti-theft protection (as long as you don’t live in Manhattan and you remember to register your lock within 30 days of purchase). This model is nearly $30 more expensive than the New-U KryptoLok Standard , which shares some of its technology (specifically, the locking mechanism and the dual-deadbolt shackle), but it includes a year of Kryptonite’s protection coverage , up to $2,500. (You have to pay $10 for the first year of protection on the KryptoLok, and that coverage pays up to $1,750 at most.)

Instead of using just a case-hardened shackle, the Evolution series uses a harder steel shackle and a hardening process that, while not technically “through hardened,” still allowed the Mini-7 to withstand more abuse in our tests than other locks at the same price. We cut lesser locks with only 24-inch bolt cutters, but the New-U Evolution Mini-7 withstood even our 36-inch cutters, surviving with just a couple of small scratches.

The New-U Evolution line also uses deadbolts on both sides of the shackle, rather than having a non-locking bent foot on one end. The advantage of the new shackle is that a thief would most likely need to make two cuts with a power tool to pry it open. And after making those cuts, the thief would need to twist the shackle off; on the New-U series, Kryptonite has added a small cutout to each end, making it that much harder to twist off.

The lock also incorporates the more secure disc-detainer locking mechanism. This style of keyway and mechanism is resistant to picking, requiring specialty tools, patience, and skills. After consulting with multiple lock-picking enthusiasts and experts, we decided that the chances of having a disc-detainer lock picked on the street are very slim, in contrast to the likelihood for some of the other lock types we tested. (The YouTube personality LockPickingLawyer posted a video in February 2021 demonstrating how, with a tool he designed, he was able to pick the New-U Evolution in less than a minute. However, considering his level of expertise and the conditions he was working in—able to hold the lock in his hands under good lighting—we believe that brute-force attacks pose more of a problem in real life.)

The New-U Evolution has a durable protective rubber coating on all the main parts to prevent scratches on your bike’s paint. It’s also available in multiple sizes, but we think the 7-inch size (which weighs about 3.5 pounds, cable included) is ideal for most people. If you are commuting on a bike with large tires and need to lock both wheels, the Mini-7 might not be long enough to fit over the tire and frame. You can solve that problem by adding locking wheel skewers , but Kryptonite also sells the New-U Evolution in a larger size without the cable. If you are unsure about the fit, swing by your local shop to check.

Flaws but not dealbreakers

We still believe that thanks to the hardness of the shackle and the difficulty of squeezing a car jack into a properly locked New-U Evolution Mini-7, it will thwart most attacks (other than with an angle grinder) better than any other lock at this price. But if you’re in a high-risk area or if you live in Manhattan, where the only locks covered by Kryptonite’s anti-theft protection are the New York series, you should probably upgrade to the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit. And if you own a particularly expensive or hard-to-replace bike, you might even want to consider the Hiplok D1000 .

And although the Mini-7 comes with one of the better mounts for attaching it to a bike frame, that isn’t saying much. U-locks are the bane of bicycle mechanics everywhere because the mounts always seem to be in an awkward spot or to come loose over time. If at all possible, carrying this lock on a rack or in a basket is definitely the preferred method, but the mount will suffice.

The Kryptonite New-U New York Fahgettaboudit Mini U-lock is a workhorse. You won’t find any special features or frills, just a lot of lock—4.55 pounds’ worth. It uses a through-hardened dual-locking shackle and extra metal in the crossbar for even more security. The 18 mm shackle has a cross-sectional area twice that of the New-U Evolution’s 13 mm shackle and thus takes twice as long to cut through. Since this lock is in Kryptonite’s New York series of locks, it’s covered by the company’s theft protection even in Manhattan (The coverage is for $5,000—or the cost of your insurance deductible, should the theft be covered—and it’s free for the first year. You can extend it for up to five years, for an additional cost of up to $35.)

Like the New-U Evolution, this lock employs a disc-detainer locking mechanism; also like the New-U Evolution, the New-U New York Fahgettaboudit wasn’t able to withstand the attentions of YouTuber LockPickingLawyer for more than a minute. However, as with the New-U Evolution, we’re less concerned about lock picking than we are about bolt cutters and angle grinders.

The only significant downside to this lock, other than an increase in price over the New-U Evolution, is that it’s much heavier. But as our tests showed, a more hardened metal (and more of it) is the key to more security. The New-U New York Fahgettaboudit Mini also does not include any mounting hardware for attaching it to your frame (though we doubt that the mount would even stay in place considering this lock’s weight), and unlike our top pick it does not come with a cable.

Sometimes you need a chain lock. The Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Chain is the best chain for the money for high-security situations. It uses 14 mm through-hardened links and comes in a fairly standard 39-inch length (which weighs more than 10 pounds) as well as in a giant, 5-foot version (15-plus pounds). The chain is connected by Kryptonite’s 15 mm New York disc lock, which employs a dual-locking shackle and a disc-detainer mechanism. And because it is in Kryptonite’s New York series of locks, it is covered by the company’s anti-theft protection in Manhattan.

Although we did not take as long to cut through this chain with the angle grinder as we did the New-U New York Fahgettaboudit Mini, we found that it provided almost as much security; it also had a more usable length. The only chain locks that took us longer to cut though were the Kryptonite New York Legend Chain and the Artago 69T100E , both of which cost significantly more at the time. If you’re particularly concerned about security, we think spending money on a strong second lock to use around the front wheel (in addition to the lock you’re already using on the back of the frame) would be a more savvy purchase and would give you more security for the same amount of money.

There’s a small intersection in the bicycle-lock world, a place where the features of a U-lock, chain, or cable don’t neatly triangulate. Perhaps you regularly find yourself in a location where a U-lock can’t fit around what you’re trying to lock your bike to, but a chain is much too heavy for you to carry, and a cable lock isn’t secure enough (for what it’s worth, we do not recommend cable locks used alone, ever, because they are so easily snipped). In that case, a folding lock might be the solution to your problem, and among models in that category, the Kryptonite Keeper 585 offers the best combination of security, weight, and price.

The Keeper 585 folding lock measures 85 cm (32 inches) long and weighs 1.7 pounds, and it comes with $500 of anti-theft protection from Kryptonite (this protection, as with all Kryptonite locks that are not part of the company’s New York series, is not valid in Manhattan). A folding lock is not very secure because the rivets in the hinges are easily compromised with a drill. And folding locks also don’t provide that much weight or size advantage over a U-lock.

The rivets on the Keeper 585 are 3 mm hardened steel. You can find folding locks that use thicker, 5 mm rivets, such as the Rocky Mounts Hendrix and even other Kryptonite models , but we drilled through them in nearly the same amount of time as we did the smaller rivets. Judging from our findings, we can say it takes a lot more than an additional 2 mm of metal—more like 10 mm (which you’ll find on the 13 mm shackle on our top pick)—to get in the way of power tools.

Giving up on those bigger rivets in favor of the Keeper 585 gives you a lock that’s nearly a pound lighter and $10 to $30 cheaper. And it still carries a bronze rating from Sold Secure, the same rating as on all other Kryptonite folding locks, even the bigger, more expensive versions. The folding lock with the highest Sold Secure rating is the ABUS Bordo Granit X-Plus , but that’s 4 pounds of lock that costs over $100. If you need something very strong, such as if you’re trying to lock up an ebike, we recommend passing on a folding lock and getting a fat chain instead—same price, but you get 14 mm of steel versus 5 mm of steel. For greater security, it’s a no-brainer.

In addition, Kryptonite offers an anti-theft warranty with its folding locks, in this case up to $500 in the event the lock is compromised. (Again, you have to register your lock within 30 days of buying it.) This lock also comes in a longer version, the Keeper 510 . It’s the same thing but 100 cm (39 inches) long and an extra 0.2 pound as a result of the longer length.

In the fall of 2021, the British bike lock company Hiplok announced that it had made a lock, the D1000 , using a graphene-reinforced ceramic composite designed to withstand a portable angle grinder, and it launched a Kickstarter campaign to publicize it. After the funding period was over, at the end of October, Hiplok sent us a sample lock ( we don’t test or evaluate products while they’re still in crowdfunding ) that was, they told us, one of the first 30 made. Duncan Niederlitz, who did the lock testing (and destroying) for the 2017 edition of this guide, hauled out his portable angle grinder to demolish the sample lock. He went through two disc blades cutting through the lock on the first try, going very carefully and trying not to let the disc blades catch. On the second attempt, he went faster, pushing harder, and it took five blades to cut through the lock. A third, slower attempt also took five blades. “If I was a thief,” he said, “I’d probably quit after the second wore out—if I even carried a spare.”

In order to be sure that the lock we tested ends up being the same lock regular customers will receive, we ordered two more locks as soon as we could, in May of 2022, on the Hiplok website. When they arrived, late in September, Duncan took one and revved up his angle grinder again. He reported that the lock we bought performed just as well as the preproduction one: “Took another five blades to cut through it once, which left a 0.75-inch gap if pulled apart, so someone would probably need to cut it twice” to actually get it off. (The shackles are square, so you can’t twist them to make the gap wider.) He then tried a metal-cutting diamond blade, which didn’t wear down as the regular blades did, but it took him three minutes and 40 seconds to cut once through the shackle—it lasted far longer than any other lock we’ve tested. And this was, of course, under optimal conditions: in a well-lit area, with a vise holding the lock steady.

Hiplok’s specs say that the lock weighs 1.9 kilograms (4 pounds, 2.8 ounces); our kitchen scale says 1.925 kilograms (4 pounds, 3.9 ounces). Either way, that’s less than our upgrade pick, the Kryptonite New-U New York Fahgettaboudit Mini, weighs. (The two locks are nearly identical in terms of their interior dimensions.) The Hiplok costs twice as much as our upgrade pick, and it doesn’t offer any kind of protection coverage like Kryptonite does. Still, given the results of our testing, we’re weighing making it our upgrade pick later this year, after we’ve seen how the lock withstands other modes of attack and how it stands up to daily life (and dirt, water, and wear) on the streets of New York City. Update: As of May 2023, no would-be thief has tried to defeat the D1000 that one of our NYC-based staff members is using to lock his bike. He’ll keep tempting them.

If you need a lock for a bike-storage room or garage: Consider the Kryptonite New York Legend Chain , which is the strongest chain we tested but too big and heavy to carry around. (It weighs nearly 15 pounds and measures nearly 5 feet long; unlike the New York Fahgettaboudit Chain, it does not come in a shorter, lighter version.) The New York Legend Chain’s bulk makes it best suited as a leave-in-place lock, not one you would bring with you and use multiple times a day.

If you want a folding lock with more anti-theft insurance: Check out the Kryptonite KryptoLok 685 , 610 , and 610 S folding locks, which are all stronger versions of our folding-lock pick. The main difference is that they have rivets measuring 5 mm thick, instead of 3 mm. We wouldn’t spend the extra money on any of them for that reason alone, as in our tests a drill still defeated them easily. However, they all come with a much bigger insurance policy: $1,750, versus the $500 of coverage that comes with our top folding choice. If that’s of value to you, upgrading to one of these versions would be worth the investment. Of the three, we’d choose the 610 S; all other things being equal, the narrower design is nice and gives the 610 S a more streamlined fit if you mount it on a down tube.

Kryptonite Evolution Mini-7 : This model, our previous top pick, was replaced by our current pick, the New-U Evolution Mini-7. (Although you may still see it for sale at some retailers and on Amazon, it no longer appears on Kryptonite’s website.) The main difference is that it locks on only one side, in contrast to the New-U Evolution Mini-7, which has a dual-locking shackle.

Kryptonite New-U KryptoLok Standard : This U-lock employs a disc-detainer mechanism, like the New-U Evolution does, and it now comes with the same double-deadlock design as our top pick. (The version we tested did not.) However, the biggest problem with this lock hasn’t changed: Bolt cutters can cut through it. We believe that spending more on a more-hardened lock, such as the New-U Evolution, could drastically reduce the percentage of thieves with the tools necessary to cut your lock.

Kryptonite KryptoLok Series 2 995 Integrated Chain : This chain’s biggest drawback is that a thief could cut it with bolt cutters, but in our tests the square shape of the 9 mm chain tended to slip out of the jaws of the cutters, and breaking it required quite some work on our part. This model would be a good secondary lock and chain.

Kryptonite New York Cinch : This chain is lighter and less expensive than the New York Fahgettaboudit Chain, and as a result it brings a slight decrease in security. If you already need so much security that you’re considering this model, getting the New York Fahgettaboudit Chain makes more sense.

Kryptonite TKO Folding Bicycle Lock : This folding lock is sold exclusively at Walmart, and for a very tempting price (about $25). It is made by Kryptonite, but that’s all it has in common with our picks. Walmart describes it as a “modern, high-security lock,” but its Kryptonite Security Level is “3”—suitable only for a quick stop in a rural area . Our tester was able to pop the rivets on the one we purchased, using a short length of pipe, in less than 10 seconds.

OnGuard: Generally, OnGuard locks did very well in our strength tests, with cutting times close to those of our top picks. But when we did our testing, we discovered that the huge deficiency of OnGuard locks, including the OnGuard Brute STD , OnGuard Beast 8016 , and OnGuard Pitbull STD , was the lock mechanism itself. At that time, OnGuard used wafer locks, in contrast to the more secure disc-detainer style on our picks; wafer locks are particularly easy to pick without fancy tools or advanced skill. Since then, OnGuard has changed its models’ cylinders to the slider type, which can be more secure depending on how many sliders are involved. We’re putting these locks back on our list to test.

ABUS Folding Lock Bordo Granit X-Plus : Though folding locks are tempting for their light and compact design, they’re not as high-security as their makers claim, as a thief can easily defeat them by drilling out the unhardened pins that hold the links together. With enough patience we were also able to pop this model’s links apart by working large bolt cutters into the joints, as House of Chain demonstrates on a smaller version of the Folding Lock Bordo in this video . The Bordo Granit X-Plus would be okay for low-crime areas, but its price is too high relative to the level of protection it provides.

ABUS Folding Lock Bordo Alarm 6000a : This upgraded version of the ABUS Folding Lock has all the same perks and flaws, with the added annoyance of incessant beeping every time it senses motion.

ABUS U-Lock Granit X-Plus : This U-lock was one of the lightest for its size, and we took significantly less time to cut through it than we did cutting through the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini.

Hiplok Gold : This chain lock has a design that allows you to wear the chain around your waist without locking it. (Wearing one locked is something that you should never do—keys get lost, locks jam, accidents happen, and paramedics need to be able to remove the lock easily in the event of an emergency.) It’s a nice feature, but the cut time for this lock was one of the quickest in our tests, and the real dealbreaker was our ability to snip it quickly with large bolt cutters.

Hiplok D Bike Lock : This lock has a double-locking shackle and is hardened, and we were unable to cut through it with bolt cutters. It uses a wafer-style locking mechanism (which is less secure than the disc-detainer locks on our picks), albeit a much better one than on the OnGuard models we tested; a thief could still pick it with more basic tools than they’d need for a disc-detainer mechanism, but to us it seemed much more secure than any of the OnGuard locks. Even with the dual-locking shackle, though, the Hiplok D showed some movement after one cut in our tests, enough for a thief to remove it from many bike frames.

RockyMounts Compton Large : This 18 mm lock was one of the heaviest we tested. It is made of stainless steel, which is harder than mild steel but definitely not as hard as hardened steel—something we proved in our tests, as we were able to cut through it in just over half the time we took to breach the Artago and Kryptonite locks, both of which also use 18 mm shackles. In addition, this was the least ergonomic lock we tested, with nonrubberized, sharp steel edges. (This lock appears to have since been discontinued.)

TiGr Mini : This has our favorite frame mount of all the locks we’ve tried, but the big dealbreaker is that it easily succumbs to cutting with bolt cutters, despite the maker’s claims to the contrary. We found a severe weak point between the main shackle and the locking mechanism, a gap that permits even small bolt cutters to shear the lock open. Also, titanium is tough but not necessarily hard, and we were able to saw through the TiGr Mini in under 30 seconds when we had it in a vise. TiGr now makes a “hardened steel” version of the lock; that version is on our list of locks to test next.

Litelok One : We found the band of this lock extremely difficult to cut through without power tools. The arrangement of the cables against a flat metal strip is a clever idea and works particularly well for slowing these types of attacks. The dealbreaker: We used just a pair of small bolt cutters against the lock mechanism (this is where most thieves actually cut many cable locks, as it tends to be quicker), and the entire mechanism spread open. A second cut through the post made the lock come apart.

RockyMounts Hendrix : A folding lock, the Hendrix is more compact and slightly lighter (by 0.2 pound) than our folding-lock pick, but that’s because it’s 10 cm shorter (only 74 cm total). That length limits its usefulness—for instance, it didn’t fit the mountain bike we tried it on.

Foldylock Classic : Although this model carries a silver rating from Sold Secure—one step higher than the rating on the Kryptonite Keeper 585—we found security upgrades on folding locks to offer almost negligible benefit. (That is, the rivets on such locks are still vulnerable to drills.) The Foldylock Classic is a pound heavier than our top pick of the same length, and more expensive. The Foldylock Compact , despite being “compact,” has the same problem, as it’s still heavier and more expensive than our pick of the same length. And neither version comes with any theft protection.

Locks take a lot of abuse, from drops to rain to snow to road grime. Luckily, maintaining the locks we’ve chosen is easy: Just open the lock, clean out any grime you can see with a cloth, spray in some degreaser if it’s feeling gritty, and then spray in a dry lube (such as Tri-Flow Superior Dry Lubricant or Finish Line Dry Bike Lubricant ) and rotate the key a few times in the lock. Kryptonite offers easy-to-follow instructions on its website .

This article was edited by Christine Ryan.

John Edgar Park, maker, writer, and lock-picking enthusiast with more 20 years of experience , in-person interview

Mark Podob, vice president of marketing and sales, Metlab , email interview

Shane D. Johnson, Aiden Sidebottom, Adam Thorpe, Problem-Oriented Guides for Police Problem-Specific Guides Series No. 52: Bicycle Theft (PDF) , U.S. Department of Justice , June 1, 2008

Meet your guides

Duncan Niederlitz

Eve O'Neill

Eve O'Neill is a former senior staff writer reporting on travel and outdoors at Wirecutter. She can remember the titles on her childhood bookshelf that set her in this direction: Into Thin Air, On The Road, The Call of the Wild . She has always been drawn to ideas about how to relate to, and play in, the wilderness.

Further reading

The Best Bike Phone Mount

by Amy Roberts and Christine Ryan

After riding with 27 smartphone bike mounts over 120 miles’ worth of smooth and rough roads, we’d trust our phones to the mounts from Quad Lock .

The Best First Pedal Bike

by Laura Motley

Learning to ride a bike is a rite of passage. Depending on the bike, the process can be either unnecessarily frustrating or, well, like a ride in the park.

The Best Bike Storage Ideas

by Christine Ryan

After 30-plus hours of research and testing, we think the Delta Cycle Michelangelo Gravity Stand  is the best bike rack for storing bikes in limited-space homes.

The Best Bike Racks and Carriers for Cars and Trucks

by Eric C. Evarts

After testing 75 bike racks—including hitch, trunk, and roof models—we recommend the Küat Sherpa 2.0 hitch rack as the best way to carry your bikes on a car.

EbikeSchool.com

Everything you need to know about electric bicycles, all in one place!

The Best Bike Locks For Electric Bicycles

It seems these days there are as many types of bike locks out there as there are bicycles. There’s quite a range of styles and qualities available, but which ones are best for an electric bicycle? Let’s take a look at some of the most common bike locks available and see how they stack up for ebike use. And consider checking out my article on 10 ways to avoid getting your electric bicycle stolen . Spoiler alert: it’s more than just about your lock.

With bike locks you get what you pay for

Now before we dive in, let’s talk for a moment about the price of bike locks. Good quality bike locks are expensive – there’s no beating around the bush here.

They say the rule of thumb is that you should spend at least 10% of the value of your bike on your locking system. I don’t know who “they” are or where they got the 10% figure, but I think it is a good place to start, and can help keep you from being too cheap when it comes to protecting your electric bicycle. A nice ebike can easily cost $1,500, so doesn’t $150 seem like a reasonable price to protect that investment? And remember, a good lock is something that should last you a while. There’s no reason a quality bicycle lock couldn’t last you a decade or more if you take care of it.

Now let’s take a look at the range of bicycle locks on the market. We’ll start at the weaker end of the spectrum and move up from there. And if we’re talking about weak bicycle locks, we’ve got to start with cable locks.

Cable bike locks

Cable locks are about as low security as it comes. The only less secure method that would still count as at least attempting to protect your bike would be to tie it with rope and double knot it.

Cable locks are a problem because the tools required to cut through them are simple hand tools. The weakest cable locks can be cut through with pliers while the slightly larger cables require bolt cutters. Both are tools that can easily be concealed in a bag or jacket and can be silently operated in a matter of seconds. For these reasons, a cable lock should never be your main lock.

Cable locks do have their place though. They make excellent supplemental locks. One of the best ways to deter bicycle thieves is to use multiple locks on different parts of your electric bicycle. While cable locks aren’t very good on their own, using them in addition to a main lock, perhaps to lock your motor to your frame, can make a powerful deterrent to a thief that now sees two or more locks standing between him and his target. Cable locks are small and lightweight which make them easy to add to the seat post or frame and forget about them until you need to use them.

Another nice thing about cable locks is that you can get them for a great price compared to the larger locks below. A great quality Kryptonite cable lock costs just $13 and would make a great second lock.

Disc brake locks

A slight step up from a cable lock is a disc lock. Unfortunately, disk locks only work if you have disk brakes. If you have them though, this can be a great supplemental lock as well.

Disc brake locks work by sliding over your disc and putting a pin through one of the cooling holes in the disc. The obstruction obviously keeps the wheel from spinning. Until the lock is removed, no one can drive off with your ebike.

Like cable locks, these make terrible locks on their own. A disk lock does nothing to prevent someone from carrying off your ebike, or removing the wheel and rolling it away. But combined with a larger main lock, a disk lock is a powerful reinforcement. You should always remember to put the reminder cable, usually a bright orange or yellow color, on your handlebar when you engage the disk lock. This reminds you to remove the lock before you go riding off. Forget to take the lock off and you could seriously damage your bike.

slide one end of the reminder cable on the lock and the other end on your handlebar to remind you to remove the lock before riding away!

A disc brake lock with a motion alarm makes a great addition to any electric bicycle. The disc brake with reminder cable makes it obvious to thieves that they aren’t going to be able to ride away on your ebike, and if they even try to do a little checking around on the bike, a super loud alarm will send them packing before suspicion is aroused. A great alarm disc lock is the Xena version .

Wheel locks (Amsterdam locks)

Next on the list are wheel locks, sometimes called Amsterdam locks. These locks mount above the wheel, usually the rear, and lock around the rim and tire to prevent the wheel from turning. Just don’t forget to unlock it and try to ride off with it engaged, or you’ll find some seriously damaged spokes.

Like a disc brake lock, wheel locks simply prevent the thief from being able to ride the bike, not steal it.

A nice thing about the wheel locks is that you never have to worry about carrying it or leaving it behind, it’s always attached to your bike and ready for use. But once again, these locks are only effective as a supplemental lock to a larger bicycle lock.

I recently reviewed an interesting type of wheel lock that can lock any bicycle wheel, even those without disc brakes. You can check out my review here .

Now that we’ve discussed a number of supplemental locks, it’s time to check out the main attraction: full security bicycle locks. We’ll begin with the tried and true U-lock. This might be one of the most well known types of bicycle locks, perhaps outside of the cable lock. The U-lock is a single piece of steel shaped like the letter ‘U’ that fits into a locking tube at the top. Or bottom. Depends how you hold it. I guess if it’s at the bottom that would make it an n-lock.

U-locks come with a variety of advantages. They are fixed shape, meaning you don’t need to go snaking them through different parts of your frame like a cable lock or chain. The fixed shape means you can hop off your bike and be locked in seconds.

U-locks often come with special mounts to make it easy to store them on your bike while riding. Because of their narrow design, they are inherently well protected against leverage attacks. Try fitting a tool between the u-lock and a post – you don’t have a lot of room to work with. This will also depend on how you use the U-lock as well. If you have a wide lock and put it around a narrow object then you might leave enough room for a thief to use a scissor jack or long pipe and implement a lever attack. The best bet is to use the narrowest U-lock that works for your bike/area and try to leave as little room in the ‘U’ as possible.

U-locks are not without their shortcomings. They are somewhat limiting to what you can lock to. Anything wide than the ‘U’ is automatically a no-go. No decent sized trees, no concrete pillars, no telephone poles – you get the idea. Parking meters and sign posts are the best things to use a u-lock with, but sometimes you just can’t find anything of that size. And like anything else, you get what you pay for. There are some really cheap U-locks out there that can be defeated easily at the ‘U’ or the locking mechanism.

As discussed above, you should be spending at least  10% of the price of your ebike on your locking system. Your lock is your insurance. Would you really trust your $1,500 ebike to a $15 u-lock?

There are many good brands of u-locks but my favorite is the Kryptonite New York line of locks. They are pretty heavy and a pain to lug around, but that’s also what gives them their strength. Superman couldn’t break through one of those things (get it? Kryptonite?) though Lois Lane might be able to if she had a good angle grinder with a dozen replacement blades prepared.

Chain locks

Next on the list are chain locks. Depending on the quality of your chain, it can be weaker, just as good as, or even better than a u-lock. Chain locks are great because you can snake them through your bicycle to lock multiple components AND go around bigger objects like trees and telephone poles, giving you more options for locking.

The strength of the lock comes down to two factors: the strength of the chain and the strength of the locking mechanism itself. A good, thick hardened chain will take a while to get through with an angle grinder, as will a decent lock. Generally, you’ll want your length of chain and your lock to be two separate pieces, that way you can make sure each is made of high quality steel. You can find chain locks with a locking mechanism built right into the chain, but those are usually cheaper locks.

Many chain locks specifically made for bicycles come with a canvas cover to keep the chain from scratching the bike and reduce noise from the chain dangling around. Some people prefer to buy a length of strong chain at the hardware store, in which case the chain will be bare. The advantage of a bare chain is that it shows a potential thief, in no uncertain terms, that you’ve got a seriously strong chain that they don’t want to mess with.

You can even combine a length of strong chain with a U-lock to get the advantages of both systems. Heck, throw a disk lock or amsterdam lock on there too for peace of mind. No one will be messing with your bike anytime soon!

The exotic world of bike locks

The locks covered above are the main staples of the bicycle lock world, but there are many other types of locks out there. All sorts of bike locks have sprung up over the years, including handcuffs , folding locks , skewers , pitlocks and more. Soon I’ll be writing up an article on unique and obscure bike locks.

In the end, the name of the game in bike locks is redundancy. Anywhere you think bike thieves might target your ebike, you need multiple locks to send the message to that bike thieves might as well move on instead of gambling that they can make it through all of your locks. A strong chain or u-lock should be your first line of defense, followed by some type of supplemental lock to complete the one-two punch and send would-be bicycle thieves packing.

photo credits 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8

Related posts:

• Review: A Cheap But Effective Wheel Lock With Alarm
• 10 Ways To Make Your Ebike More Theft Resistant
• Choosing the Right Bicycle for an Electric Bicycle Conversion
• Friction Drive Electric Bicycles: What’s That About?

About Micah

Micah is a mechanical engineer, tinkerer and husband. He's spent the better part of a decade working in the electric bicycle industry, and is the author of The Ultimate DIY Ebike Guide . Micah can usually be found riding his electric bicycles around Florida, Tel Aviv, and anywhere else his ebikes wind up.

What's the Best Way to Lock an E-Bike?

More is always better. So is using the right kinds of locks.

• University of Toronto

Lloyd Alter / CC BY 2.0

• Public Transportation

Electric bikes can be heavier and more expensive than regular bikes, but many of the same rules apply to locking them up safely and preventing theft.

We have quoted the "50-pound rule" about bikes before:

All bicycles weigh 50 pounds. A 30-pound bicycle needs a 20-pound lock. A 40-pound bicycle needs a 10-pound lock. A 50-pound bicycle doesn't need a lock at all.

After spending some time riding some very expensive electric bikes in Minneapolis , I realized that the rule no longer applies; e-bikes are heavier than regular bikes, and they can be very expensive. So when I was at the Frostbike show as a guest of Surly Bikes, I had a long chat with the Abus representative about what the best locks for bikes are. (Alas, I left my bag with my camera in the taxi on the way home, so I have no photos from that part of my visit.)

We have covered bike locks before, and much of the earlier advice still stands, along with some additional tips. If you're concerned about cost, just think about what you've invested in the e-bike itself and realize that protecting it is money well spent. As Heidi Wachter wrote for Treehugger in a roundup on the best e-bike locks , standard advice is to spend 10% of the bike's sticker price on locking mechanisms: "So, if you have a $1,000 e-bike, you’ll want to shell out about $100 for a system of locks for protection."

1. U-locks, or D-locks, Are Considered Very Secure

But you have to do it right: Get as small a U-Lock as you can get way with; the smaller the space, the less chance of getting crowbars or hydraulic jacks into position. And get a good one, where both sides of it are locked in place; that way, the thief has to make two cuts. Some people use the "Sheldon Technique" where the rear tire is locked to the fixed object; evidently tires and wheels are really hard to cut through.

People tend to buy the big clunky U-locks because they don't know how to use them properly. A U-lock should go around the rear rim and tire, somewhere inside the rear triangle of the frame. There is no need to loop it around the seat tube as well, because the wheel cannot be pulled through the rear triangle.

2. Look for Locks That Are Resistant to Angle Grinders

Battery-powered grinders will eventually go through every kind of lock, but it is really hard to hold a chain and grind at the same time, which makes chain locks a good choice. Chains also require two cuts. Another lock that's highly resistant to angle grinders is Hiplok's D1000 lock , made from Ferosafe, a graphene-reinforced ceramic composite that's combined with a steel core and coated in rubber for a nearly indestructible lock.

3. Folding Locks Are Convenient, but Not as Secure

These new locks are made of plate steel and fold up into a little carrier, much easier than dealing with U-locks and much lighter than chains. But they only need one cut, and some say that pins can be drilled through.

4. Cable Locks Are Not Effective

I use a cable lock to secure my tires and just slow the thief down a bit, but as Yvonne Bambrick writes in the " Urban Cycling Guide ," the cheap thin versions are "like locking your house with a screen door."

5. Use Multiple Locks

Our Abus representative, who has some of the best locks in the world at his disposal, lives in Chicago, where there is a lot of bike theft. He adds a lock for every hour he is leaving his bike alone: "If I go to a three-hour movie, I put three locks on the bike." In Toronto, where I teach at Ryerson University School of Interior Design, I have been using two locks—a little Abus Granit U-Lock and a thin cable. I think it is time to upgrade the cable to a chain or even the Hiplok mentioned above.

6. Lock to Something Solid and Legal

This friendly and welcoming sign in Fort Lauderdale sent me somewhere else for dinner. But when these companies come with their trucks and big grinders, they get your bike in seconds. And don't lock to trees; it is bad for the tree and it might well get chopped down just for the bike.

7. Lock It in a Public Place

This doesn't always help. I once saw a bike thief at work at a busy intersection in Toronto; he was twice my size, and I wasn't going to confront him. Casey Neistat made this hilarious but maddening video where he uses everything from bolt cutters to angle grinders to steal (his own) bikes, even in front of a police station!

The future may well be connected locks that notify your phone when the lock is being tampered with and track the bike's location as it moves. AlterLock is offering this kind of "bike security service" in parts of Europe and Japan, but it has yet to become commonplace.

Other Safety Tips

Document and register your bike.

The police don't do much if your bike gets stolen, but who knows, you might get lucky if they have all the information and catch a bike thief. I suspect also that, as more baby boomers ride more expensive e-bikes, that the police won't be able to just blow them away.

Demand Safe, Secure Bike Storage in Your Community

This is perhaps the most important thing. More and more zoning bylaws are writing bike parking in, the way they do car parking; LEED and other certifications encourage bike storage and changing facilities. These should be in every building.

There should be decent bike parking on the street, too; I have been in Toronto's entertainment district where they tell us not to lock our bikes to the trees, but can you find an open ring anywhere? No, because there is simply not enough bike parking to meet demand. Nobody wants to lock their bike to a tree but you have to provide some options.

The proliferation of expensive and heavy e-bikes is going to change the discussion of bikes in cities, and probably change the way we think about locking them. More bikes will have alarms and GPS tracking and high-tech solutions, but the basic rules will still apply: Buy the best lock you can afford, and then buy another one.

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• Litelok, the Wearable Bike Lock, Gets Lighter and Stronger
• Finally, a Bike Lock That Can Stand Up to an Angle Grinder
• It's Bike to Work Week; Here's How to Make It Bike to Work Year.
• AlterLock Is a Bike Security Service
• 2021 in Review: The E-Bike Revolution Hits the Streets
• Bikes Are Evolving. When Will Bike Storage Catch Up?
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Locks/Security

Best bike locks 2024 - Quality locks to keep your bike secure

The best bike locks will help you keep your bike safe when you leave it

• ▶ U-LOCKS

Best all-around

High security

Medium security

• ▶ FOLDING LOCKS
• High Security
• Low security
• ▶ CHAIN LOCKS

Best chain lock

• Use with a car rack
• How to choose

1. Quick list 2. U-locks - Best all-around - High security - Medium security - Budget 3. Folding locks - High security - Smart - Medium security - Low security 4. Chain locks - Best chain lock - Use with a car rack - Budget 5. How to choose  

If you are looking for the best bike lock, it can be easy to fall into a rabbit hole of never-ending research. Instead, I've done that for you. I spent months interviewing lock company representatives and polling thousands of cyclists. What I found was that the number of people who had a quality lock actually defeated was small.

What I found was often people lost a bike because it wasn’t secured at all. A common theme was someone with commuter bikes having their bike walk away while they briefly popped into a store. Sometimes they were using a cable lock and sometimes they thought they'd be fast enough to go with nothing. There were also a lot of people who lost road bikes by leaving them unlocked in their home, garage, or a supposedly secure bike room. 

With those trends in mind, we’ve looked for the best bike lock we could find covering a wide range of different use scenarios. As you look through our list, keep those trends in mind but also make sure you think about your own preferences. You want to look for something that helps you feel secure even if that's more security than you might absolutely need. Above all else though, you need to look for something you find convenient and are going to use every time, even at home, no matter what. It should fit your budget, your style, and your particular use case.

Recent updates

This article was originally published in April 2022 and has been given significant regular updates since, in which our team of experts have added information, updated the product recommendations and more.  The latest update was performed in April 2024, so all the information is relevant and every product recommendation is available to buy as of this date. 

A balance of angle grinder resistance, weight, and price with a high quality frame mount.

Read more below 

Strong enough to resist everything but an angle grinder packaged with excellent pricing, lots of included keys, and an insurance offer. 

Functionally impossible to cut with an angle grinder but small enough to bring with you.

High security folding

Easier to carry and more flexible than a U-lock while still offering a high level of security.

A 10mm hardened steel chain with a Sold Secure Gold rating and the ability to wear it without locking it. This is the most convenient high security lock available.

Budget chain lock

Hardened steel 7mm four-sided chain links with included insurance and a killer price.

Read more below  

Best bike locks available today

You can trust Cyclingnews Our experts spend countless hours testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

A U-lock, or D-lock depending where you are reading from, is the easiest high security option to live with in a perfect world. That means if you have a bike with thin tubes, and something easy to lock to, they provide a high level of security for the price and are the easiest to transport. The challenge with this type of lock comes when you have unusual anchor points and bikes with large tubes.  

Best all-around bike lock

1. Litelok X1

Our expert review:

Specifications

Reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

Only a few years ago if you wanted high security it was all about how thick the shackle on a lock was. Options like the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboutit Mini and the Abus Granit XPlus 540 reigned supreme. In today’s world those types of locks offer little security in a world ruled by portable angle grinders. 

The Litelok X1 isn’t the most secure lock out there. It’s not even the most secure lock that Litelok offers. Instead it represents a balance of weight, price and security. This is a Sold Secure Diamond rated lock and I would consider it angle grinder proof even though that’s not technically true.  

What I mean is that I took an angle grinder to the Litelok X1 and I did manage to get through it. That said, I was using a more powerful plug in grinder and I shredded a cutting blade while cutting through one side of the lock. Like other quality locks though, there’s a double shackle. It takes a cut through each side to open the lock and I was only able to cut through one side before I needed a new blade. It’s not impossible that a thief would change blades but it’s highly unlikely, hence my reason for calling this angle grinder proof in practical terms.  

Aside from that feature, the Litelok X1 is your basic high-quality U-lock. There’s a silicone cover to protect the locking mechanism from the weather and a plastic coating that both slows a grinder and also protects the finish of your bike. The Litelok's coating includes a reflective strip, so there's bonus visibility when riding at night and you can buy replacement keys if you lose the two that are supplied. The lock is easy to place rattle-free in the included frame mount.

In terms of negatives, I have to admit I’m stretching here. This lock is hard to fault as long as you understand what it is. It's heavy and, even with that heft, it’s not impossible to cut it with a grinder. I didn’t list either of those as a negative though because that’s how it’s being marketed. I can’t really punish Litelok for making a very secure lock that’s not as secure as even heavier, and more expensive options. If you are looking for something light or super secure, this isn’t quite that lock. The Hiplok D1000 is more secure but also heavier. The Litelok is a balance. 

The one thing I do find lacking is that there’s no insurance offering. It’s incredibly hard to actually use the insurance that companies like Onguard and Kryptonite offer but it’s still nice to see it available. Litelok made a great lock; they should back up the security with included insurance. 

Best high security bike lock

2. Hiplok D1000

While the Litelok X1 is portable angle grinder resistant from a practical standpoint, the Hiplok D1000 is as close to angle grinder proof as you can get. When Micah Toll from EbikeSchool tested the D1000 with a grinder he gave up after trashing three blades and making it less than halfway through a single side of the lock. If you want absolute peace of mind for an expensive electric bike then this is the lock for you. 

Also, like the Litelok, this is a high quality lock besides the theft resistance. Despite being quite heavy, it is still portable. It’s also quite well built with a soft touch outer that definitely will not scratch a nice bike and a cover for the locking mechanism. If you lose your keys you won’t be able to cut the lock off but there is a replacement program. Similarly, if you start having issues with the lock cylinder, don’t risk it getting stuck. Stop using it and take advantage of the lifetime (defined as 10 years) warranty that covers normal wear and tear.   

As far as negatives go, the size and weight are the issues. Because of all the security this lock offers, the D1000 is a heavy lock. So heavy that Hiplok doesn’t think a frame mount will work and so there isn’t one. Also because of the weight, Hiplok doesn’t make the D1000 very big. As it is, the lock weighs 1.9kg / 4 lbs. 1.6 oz. and so in an effort to keep it from getting even heavier, the locking capacity is small. It’s difficult to use for more than a single frame tube and even with the already high price, you may need a second lock. 

You can read more details about this lock in our full Hiplok D1000 review .

Best medium security bike lock

3. Onguard 8003 Pitbull STD U-Lock

I used this lock for years and I used to call it the best all-around U-lock. It was never the most secure, or even the cheapest, but with a 14mm hardened steel shackle it was enough for most situations. A 14mm hardened steel shackle is thick enough that bolt cutters are going to be ineffective and it locks on both sides, requiring two cuts to break it free. Unfortunately, as mentioned, a high-security lock in today’s climate needs to take portable angle grinders into consideration and this one doesn’t. 

Not everyone needs the highest security level though. The Onguard Pitbull is the all-around kind of lock you can feel good using in slightly lower security situations. If you feel like an angle grinder isn’t going to be an issue for you, then this is a good lock at a decent price. The generous five keys included mean you can be less stressed with a lost key and the light on one key is a nice touch at this price level. The coating won’t scratch your bike and there’s a decent frame mount. There’s even a small insurance offer to make you feel a bit better.  

You’ll want to keep in mind that the suggested version here is the standard version and there's enough room inside for the frame and a wheel. That also means there’s a bit of extra room and that can make it easier to defeat with a pry bar. Again though, this isn’t the most secure option anyway and this size makes it easy to use. It would be better if there was a cover for the lock cylinder though, as it will eventually fail because of weather. 

Best budget U-lock

4. Abus Mini 410

If a product isn't the best, it should at least be cheap. I've been very intentional in putting a bottom floor on that concept here though. The Abus Mini 410 isn't high security but it is acceptable security. I wouldn't leave a bike for much time with only this lock but it's inexpensive and light enough that it's an easy option to bring along if you plan to briefly head into a store. For all the people I spoke to who had a bike stolen, this was because they weren’t going to be gone long. Don’t be that person, use this lock instead. 

The 12mm double shackle ensures that no one is going to cut the Abus Ultra mini with wire cutters. You could probably get through it with 36" bolt cutters, and maybe even 30" cutters given the right scenario, but either way that's still a lot more protection than a cable lock will ever give you. 

There are also quite a few variants of the Abus 410. The one I’ve included here is the basic Mini 410. It’s too small to lock more than just the frame but it’s less expensive. There are also options that include a cable lock for the front wheel or have a bigger space inside the lock. They are all the same 12mm double locking shackle so if this one is too small, pick whatever works for you. 

Folding Locks

Folding locks are less secure and more expensive than either chains or U-locks. What they bring to the table is an ease of use that’s hard to beat. They’ve got the flexibility of a chain and are as easy to carry as a U-lock. If security is your biggest concern then you’ll want to look at a different section but if you are willing to give up some security for convenience this is a good place to look. 

Best high security folding bike lock

5. Abus Bordo Granit 6500 Folding Lock

The Abus Bordo 6500 is the highest security folding lock around. It has both a Sold Secure Gold rating and Abus calls it a 15/15 security level thanks to the 5.5mm hardened steel bars and protected links. On top of that, the Lock Picking Lawyer is quite generous in his description of the lock core as being "ahead of the curve" in his video where he does go on to eventually open it. 

As with other folding locks though, it's not the security where the Abus 6500 shines. Cargo Bike magazine easily cuts it with a portable grinder and only a single cut is enough to open all folding locks. The trade off is that there's a lot more flexibility when using a folding lock. This is especially true when you are locking to a busy bike rack with lots of other people and not much room. The big links will look impressive enough to sway a thief towards a less protected target and this lock allows you to manoeuvre it between other bikes or reach farther to get the anchor. When it's time to carry it, you've got a bit less weight and all the weight is closer to the frame making the mount easier to use. 

As long as you understand the security available from this lock, it's a great option that's well made in almost every way. The one thing Abus seems to have overlooked is that the lock cylinder isn't protected from weather. If you live in a rainy climate you'll have to accept that eventually the internals may fail and require a replacement. 

Best smart folding bike lock

6. Abus Bordo 6500a Smart X

I've already been quite clear that folding locks are less secure in exchange for better ease of use. Abus has an answer to that criticism though. The Abus Bordo 6500a Smart X takes everything good about the standard Bordo 6500 and upgrades it with electronics. The result is a lock that's both more secure and more convenient. 

Instead of a key, the Bordo 6500a Smart X is a smart lock that relies on Bluetooth. The heart of the design retains the same series of 15.5cm long, and 5.5mm thick hardened steel bars. Each one connects to the next with a shielded joint and there's a rubberized coating to protect the finish of your bike. At the top though, you won't find a lock cylinder, not even for backup.

Instead of a key, there's an app. You have the choice to configure a manual unlock but otherwise as you walk up with your phone, the lock will open. It's all seamless and automatic. There are also the nice side benefits of being able to open the app and see where you parked your bike and being able to allow someone else to unlock the bike. On top of that added convenience, there's also the added security of a 110db alarm built in. Should someone try to tamper with the lock an alarm might not stop them but it might and it certainly doesn't hurt. 

The only thing I'd like to see added is a key slot for backup purposes. In my testing the whole system worked every time but it seems odd to offer no emergency unlock option. It's also worth noting that you do pay extra for the convenience of the smart system. 

You can read more details in my full Abus Bordo 6500A SmartX lock review .

Best medium security folding bike lock

7. Kryptonite KryptoLok 610 S

How much security do you really need? In many situations as long as you use a quality lock then you will be safe. If that already sums up your thoughts then shouldn't your folding lock be easy to carry? The Kryptonite 610s is a counter to the Abus folding lock options. While those locks have a design aimed at high security, Kryptonite is very clear that the 610s will work for quick stops in metro areas or suburbs and longer lockups only in rural areas. 

If that's enough for you then you get a lower price and even more convenient option. The link bars are 5mm, instead of 5.5mm, saving you almost 600 grams. The lock is also longer and narrower which, again, adds to the ease of carrying, while rotation where the bars connect to the lock means it has a ton more flexibility in how you use the lock as well. 

Another thing I really love about Kryptonite locks with better security is that the brand is willing to back that up. Should your bike end up getting stolen, there is an opt-in insurance program that could pay you back a bit of money. These programs are always hard to take advantage of, but it feels like a mark of respect for the customer that it even exists. Unfortunately there's nothing to help you when the lock cylinder eventually stops working because there's no weather cover for it. You also aren't getting a budget price for this lock despite the lower security. 

Best low security bike lock

8. Hiplok Z Lok Combo

If there's a lock that exemplifies why I don't have a cable lock included in this list, this is it. The Hiplok Z Lok Combo offers about the same security but it's far smaller and cheaper. Any attack with a tool would easily cut through the steel band, just like a cable lock, but you can carry this in a jersey pocket and it's there when you need it.

That means for most situations, I don't recommend this lock. If you've got any kind of bike where it makes sense to attach something to the frame, grab an inexpensive U-lock or folding lock and use that instead. The place where this lock shines is on a bike where you aren't going to put it on the frame and you really aren't going to leave the bike alone. Thieves are incredibly fast and good at what they do and this lock is just enough to keep someone from quietly walking away with your bike while you look at it. It's great at a coffee shop where you might even be within reach of your bike, but this way you can relax enough to enjoy your coffee. 

When you are going to be close to your bike anyway but want to make sure it doesn't disappear from under your nose, grab the Hiplok Z Lok Combo. Although It’s not a folding lock we’ve included it in this section because it also trades security for convenience.

Chain locks

Chain locks are as secure as U-locks, if they are as thick, but they have extra flexibility. If you’ve got a frame that’s extra thick, like an ebike, or if you need to attach to thicker anchors, that’s where chains shine. The downside is that they are heavier and more difficult to carry than both a U-lock and a folding lock.  

9. Hiplok Gold Chain Lock

Chains are great because it still takes two cuts to defeat them, like a U-lock, but they are also very flexible and easy to lock up. The most difficult part of dealing with a chain is that they are big and heavy. It's never convenient to put one on a bike so it's common to wrap them around your waist. That solution works but it's not very safe. 

Hiplok has an answer though. The brand is well known for making locks you can wear safely. The Hiplok Gold is a 10mm chain weighing in at a hefty 2,274 grams but it's got a system that turns it into a belt without locking. Instead, there's a bar on the lock side and a plastic buckle that snaps into the bar on the other side. When you are ready to lock a bike, take it off your waist, open the lock, and connect the lock to the chain that's on the other side of the waist bracket. The superbright version pictured here also adds visibility while riding. 

Not only is the 10mm chain quite secure but it's convenient and safe. If you need to lock something up that isn't easy with a U-lock, this is your answer. The only downside is all that security does mean you've got to deal with a bit of weight. Wearing it mitigates that to some extent but the weight doesn't disappear and you'll notice it. The reflective cover will also degrade over time. It looks great when new, and it's incredibly bright, but I've had a number of products with that coating and eventually they all start to flake. You’ll want to consider that if you like the look of it. You can read more details in my full Hiplok Gold bike lock review .

Best higher security bike lock for using with a car rack

10. Abus City Chain 1010

When I talked to cyclists who had bikes stolen while locked there was one story that stood out: a brand-new bike stolen off a rack while filling up gas on the way home. The integrated cable lock on the rack got clipped while the owner was inside buying a snack. For me it was confirmation of a scenario I'd already worried about in the past. It was also a challenge. What would be the best solution in this scenario?

Having spent time studying the design of racks and the needs, my thought is that you need something longer than normal and it has to be quick to get on. The Abus CityChain 1010 is what I ended up settling on. It's fast to get on because it's got a fabric cover that means you won't scratch your frame. Most chain locks have that feature but it's important here because you don't want to spend a bunch of time carefully placing a chain just to go pay for gas. It's worth saying though, you shouldn't drive with the lock on. 

The Abus CityChain 1010 is also a good choice for locking to the rack on your car because at 140cm it's longer than many options out there. That's important because unlike most locking situations, both the bike and the anchor are immovable. You can't move the bike into position to make a smaller chain work. 

If you are driving any distance, it's likely you will stop for food as well as gas. If that's the case, the 9mm links are enough to stop a lot of attacks. Larger bolt cutters, and pry bars, are still an issue but you can probably get some food and come back to a bike. It's also nice to see a protected lock cylinder even if this use case won't see it sitting in the rain for long periods of time. 

You can read more details in the full Abus City Chain 1010 lock review .

Best budget bike chain lock

11. Kryptonite Keeper 785

I prefer high security in a bike lock. Even my city bike is worth more than enough that I don't relish the idea of replacing it. Instead of worrying, I'd rather go for more security. That said, I also live in an urban area and bike theft is common in a bike city like Portland Oregon. In each section I like to include an option for those who don't need much security. Although I recommend not under-sizing your security, you might not need the highest. If that's where you find yourself, Kryptonite Keeper 785 is your answer. 

The Keeper 785 is an inexpensive option for lower security situations. The sides of each link use a square profile that helps resist bolt cutters even though 7mm still falls within what’s possible for the right bolt cutters. Nylon covers protect your bike's paint and 85 cm / 33.5 in length makes it easy to lock up both wheels and accessories. There's also a Key Safe Program if you lose a key and, like other Kryptonite products there is an insurance program of, in this case $500 if you do lose a bike while using the lock. 

While this isn't the most secure lock out there, it's inexpensive and still offers decent protection. Make sure you keep the lock away from the ground and wrapped securely to help up the security level and for some that will be enough. The only criticism I have is the lack of a cover for the key hole. It seems to be a common mis-step but not everyone needs the highest security and not everyone needs to worry about rain. 

How to choose the best bike lock for you

When I write a buyer's guide I endeavour to become an expert if I'm not already. I share what works and what doesn't and I get to look at every product in a category to help draw those conclusions. The problem with doing that for the best bike lock is that I'm not a bike thief and there's no real way for me to become an expert on bike theft. With that in mind, I took a different approach to this section of this buyer's guide. 

While I spent time with every lock here, I also reached out to law enforcement and talked to as many people who experienced bike theft as possible. I pulled together that communal knowledge of having a bike stolen and formed that into questions and answers to help inform you on how to keep your bike safe and what locks to buy.

How are bikes being stolen?

When you think about protecting with the best bike locks it's important to have an understanding of how bikes are being stolen. You can't protect against every attack in every situation so understanding what you need to worry about is step one. To that end I did a lot of research to try and understand the issue and present options that cover the bases. Keep in mind it's constantly evolving and it's not as well studied as we'd like it to be. Here's what I found though. 

The most obvious tools are bolt cutters. They are inexpensive and low tech as well as silent and easy to hide. They've been around for a long time as a tool of choice but they are actually beginning to see less use. 

The biggest reason that bolt cutters are seeing less use is the rise of inexpensive portable angle grinders. Bolt cutters are most effective against very low security U lock designs, chains, and cable locks. Given that medium security U locks are the most used type of lock it makes sense to invest a little money into an easy to carry angle grinder. They are just as effective against a cable lock and very fast at handling higher security options as well. 

The other common tool in use is a breaker bar of some kind. Something like a steel pipe is common but really anything that's long enough to give leverage is ripe for use. The technique is to jam it into a lock and take advantage of the leverage to twist until it breaks open. 

One attack method you might notice missing from this list is lock picking. If you are researching locks, you've no doubt stumbled on demonstrations of lock picking but the reality is that it's not a common attack method. It's a skill that requires a lot of technique and there are much easier ways to steal a bike. The people I interviewed to find out how bikes were being stolen were very clear that this was interesting to watch but uncommon in practice. 

What is the right type of bike lock?

Deciding what type of lock you buy is all about understanding how bikes are being stolen then applying that to your situation. What level of risk are you willing to take on? What situation are you defending against and what is going to work for you? Through all of my research the number one thing that continued to come up was that the large majority of bikes stolen weren't locked at all. That means it might be less important to worry about ultimate security as it is to worry about what you will use all the time. Here's some info to help make the decision though. 

The most common choice for medium, or high, security is a U lock. They are very secure, very easy to carry, and there are a lot of choices across a wide range of price points. One of the biggest challenges with chain locks is the size. They are already heavy and a smaller lock will be more secure but they don't have much extra room to accommodate larger anchor objects. U locks are most effective when you have access to a bike rack to lock against. The one important caveat when choosing a U lock is to always look for a double shackle. You want it to lock both sides of the U so that it takes two cuts to free the bike. 

The second most common option for security is a chain. Chains tend to be more secure for less money. They are also more secure against angle grinders because they are hard to hold still. They are less secure against bolt cutters because individual links often don't match the diameter of a U lock. They tend to be bigger and heavier than a U lock design and carrying them can be more difficult. Where they excel is in their flexibility. If you need to lock your bike to a sign post or any kind of non-standard anchor, chains can do it for you. 

Another common locking solution is a folding lock. Folding locks are less secure than chains or U locks because they've got a lot of pieces that allow for attack vectors. Quality folding locks do their best to protect the hinges but there will always be vulnerability there. The wide hardened steel makes them difficult to cut with bolt cutters so it's not like they are pushovers and they are convenient. They can be flexible enough for non-standard anchors and they are easier to carry than other options. 

Remember, don't get too caught up on the details of what lock is technically more secure. The Los Angeles Police Department summarized it nicely when it said " Many bikes that are stolen are NOT secured" and that's what I also found when polling cyclists. Find a lock that you are going to use every single time and you've already got a huge leg up.  

How are bike locks rated?

In the UK, Sold Secure is an independent testing organisation. Lock makers submit samples of their locks to Sold Secure, who then use a variety of methods to try to break them. They talk to the police to identify trends in bike theft methods and any novel approaches are incorporated into their test protocols.

Sold Secure will rate a lock on four levels from Bronze through to Diamond on the strength of protection it affords and lock brands will show the rating on the packaging for their locks. A very low security lock might be unrated.

What is the difference between a U lock and a D lock?

U locks and D locks are the same thing. They are both named in relation to their shape. Without the brace fitted, the shape resembles that of the letter U, and when the brace is fitted, it resembles a letter D. The term 'U lock' is widely adopted in the USA, while D lock is used more in the UK.

Why is there no cable lock on this list?

Chains, U locks, folding locks, why not cable locks? There are a lot of cable locks sold in the world so why don't we have any on this list? The easiest answer to that is that they aren't secure. Cable locks use steel cables not hardened steel. Cutting them is so trivial and so fast that they only provide the most minimal protection. When I polled cyclists who’d had a lock defeated it was almost universally a cable lock. In most of those situations they understood the low security but they thought it would be enough for a quick stop and it wasn’t. You can defeat other types of locks too but not as fast and not without making noise. 

That only partially answers the question though. Not everyone needs a high security solution all the time. There are plenty of situations where covering theft of opportunity, what you might call walk away theft, is more than enough security. Think about a long ride with a snack stop far away from the city. In those situations, you might get away with a low security option but there are better low security options. You can come close to matching the price of a cable lock and you can find options that are easier to carry while offering similar security. 

Are key or combination bike locks better?

The two most common locking methods utilise either a key or a combination. Both have their merits, and both have their pitfalls. 

A combination lock can be susceptible to prying eyes. If the wrong person knows your combination, expect your steed to bolt from the stable. At the cheaper end of the market, a combination lock can be hacked without the need for tools. 

A key lock can be less prone to compromise, however, if ever you leave your keys on the train, you could be left having to 'steal' your own bike from the station. 

No matter the variant, bike locks are like front door mechanisms: they work on the principle of very close mechanical tolerances and don’t enjoy too much water or environmental contaminant ingress, which can lead to rust or jamming. 

The best bike locks have weather-proof covers which protect the keyhole, but all bike locks can benefit from similar care to what you’d apply to any drivetrain chain or suspension stanchion in terms of preventative maintenance. Clean, dry and lube them – for longevity and frustration-free locking performance.

How to lock your bike

I wrote a full article about how to lock a bike and there's more detail there. What's important to understand in this context is that you want to limit extra space between the lock and the bike. You also want to keep the lock farther from the ground. These small changes in how you use the chosen lock will make it more secure. Keeping the lock farther from the ground makes it more difficult to use the ground as leverage on a bolt cutter. Limiting extra space between the lock and the bike means it's more difficult to get a tool positioned for a leverage attack. 

What about insurance?

Some bike locks come packaged with insurance offers. These are nice for peace of mind but there's a few details you should be careful about. The biggest thing to remember is that these are insurance offers and that means they are very specific. There is no wiggle room for not quite meeting some requirements. Make sure you follow the instructions exactly. In the case of both Kryptonite and Onguard that means you need to have registered at the time you bought the lock so make sure you start there. 

Another good option for insurance is to add your own bike specific insurance and we have an article covering the best bike insurance . More coverage is better than less so doubling up won’t hurt. 

Make sure you register your bike

While you are following the directions for registering your new lock, make sure you also register your bike. Bike Index is a US non-profit that works to register bikes then helps with recovery if something happens; in the UK Bike Register and in Australia the National Bike Register provide a similar service. There's no guarantee of anything but they are doing amazing work and it doesn't hurt. 

If a bike goes missing you can access a community of people who will keep their eyes open and help you recover it. It's also a great opportunity to record the serial number of your bike and make sure you have it on hand. If law enforcement happens to recover a bike it will only come back to you if you've filed a police report and given them a serial number.  

You can also have your bike indelibly marked, which helps to deter theft and makes identification easier if your bike is stolen then recovered by the police or others. It's part of the Bike Register service in the UK and some police forces will occasionally have free registration campaigns.

Consider a bike tracker

If your bike does get stolen, it's rare that you'll recover it. You can increase your chances by hiding a bike tracker somewhere in your bike. The best bike trackers include passive devices like an Apple Air Tag or Tile sticker, which rely on proximity to a Bluetooth-enabled phone. 

There are also GPS-enabled devices that will broadcast their location over a mobile network, although you'll need to pay a recurring subscription for these.

How we tested the best bike locks

There is no perfect solution to bike theft. Particularly with the continued prevalence of portable angle grinders, every lock is vulnerable. With the exception of the Litelok X1 I haven't taken an angle grinder to these locks because I know without a doubt that it's possible to cut them. The Litelok is the exception because the technology rides on the ability to resist an angle grinder so I decided to see how it worked. There’s also a lot of people who have tried to cut the Hiplok D1000 so I’ve seen that demonstrated both personally and via plenty of videos. 

The other thing I didn’t try was cutting locks with bolt cutters. Bolt cutters will defeat locks but it’s dependent on the size of the tool and the size of the lock. There’s no testing to be done because it’s a mechanical fact with no room for error. Instead, what I’ve done is put these locks to the test from the standpoint of usability and helped set expectations. Locks that are low security are listed as such and everything here is a quality option that will work as expected. 

Third party testing organisations such as Sold Secure will be much better at testing security as well, so their rating is a good indication to follow.

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Josh hails from the Pacific Northwest of the United States but would prefer riding through the desert than the rain. He will happily talk for hours about the minutiae of cycling tech but also has an understanding that most people just want things to work. He is a road cyclist at heart and doesn't care much if those roads are paved, dirt, or digital. Although he rarely races, if you ask him to ride from sunrise to sunset the answer will be yes. Height: 5'9" Weight: 140 lb. Rides: Salsa Warbird, Cannondale CAAD9, Enve Melee, Look 795 Blade RS, Priority Continuum Onyx

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A keyed cable lock that provides protection with an 8mm thickness. Love your bike, lock your bike The Bontrager Keyed Cable Lock provides a durable locking solution for simple, convenient security. Industry-leading corrosion protection is combined with a soft PVC coating to create a durable lock that won't scratch your frame and will keep your bike safe. Product details - 8mm x 150cm cable provides easy-to-use versatile security - Durable PVC coating looks great while protecting bike from scratches - Secure-keyed entry resists tampering - Includes cable lock and 2 keys (replacement keys available) - Security rating 2

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Maintaining an ebike in good working condition can be tricky business, especially if you’re a newbie ebike rider. 

An ebike will work smoothly only when all the parts are functioning properly. Luckily, not every hiccup with your electric bike means there’s a major problem. Sometimes, it just needs a bit of DIY maintenance.

Not to mention, many ebike owners don’t live near an electric bike service shop, so getting the job done themselves can be a lifesaver. In any case, knowing how to troubleshoot common problems of ebikes is valuable information for anyone owning an electric bike or thinking about buying one. 

In this article, we’re sharing a full guide on how to troubleshoot common ebike problems to help you get back on the road in no time. So without further ado, let’s get started!

1. Troubleshooting the Battery

If your ebike won’t start or keeps cutting off, the issue can often be traced back to the battery. Even if you’re just doing a routine troubleshooting session, the battery on your ebike should be the first component to inspect. Here are some ways to troubleshoot battery problems:

Check the Voltage

The first thing you need to do is check the battery voltage. The LEDs on the control panel and the ebike should light up, if this doesn’t happen, then there’s a chance that the battery hasn’t been charged or there may have been a blown fuse. 

Checking the battery voltage can give you a clue as to whether or not the battery has been damaged.

You can check the voltage of an ebike using a voltmeter by simply attaching the prongs to the positive and negative sides of the prongs on the battery. Another way to get a reading is to fasten the voltmeter directly into the charger connector on the battery.

If you find that the battery power dies out too quickly, then the first you should do is determine how long the battery pack has been left without charging. Accordingly, you’ll be facing one of 2 scenarios:

• If the battery pack hasn’t been charged for 6 months or less, you may be able to recharge it successfully.
• If the battery pack hasn’t been charged for more than 6 months, then it’s probably defective. 

If you know that your ebike has been sitting in the garage for some time without recharging and when you try to start it, the battery loses power too quickly, then it’s safe to assume that the battery is defective and will require a replacement. 

If you’ve charged your ebike battery for less than 8 hours, try letting it charge for 8 hours and then check if the electric bike can run at full speed. We highly recommended not to leave the battery charger plugged into your electric bike for more than 12 hours. This is to avoid the risk of overcharging or damaging the battery if the charger malfunctions.

Check the Battery Charger

While you’re at it, you should also check the battery charger. You don’t need any tools to get this done; just plug the battery charger into the wall and see if one or more of the indicator lights are illuminated. 

If the indicator light doesn’t illuminate or even blink on and off when the charger is plugged into the wall, then you’re dealing with a defective charger. To test the output voltage of your battery charger, you can use a multimeter or voltmeter.

The voltage reading must be a few volts higher than the battery charger’s rated voltage. If the output on the battery charger is lower than the battery charger’s rated voltage or if it’s zero, then the battery charger is defective.

For example, if your ebike is equipped with a 36V battery but the voltmeter reads 10 volts, then the battery is faulty. In this case, it’s a good idea to check if your ebike is still under warranty. 

If so, then you can contact the manufacturer and file a warranty claim for replacement parts. But if not, then you should buy a new battery.

If the voltmeter reads a surface charge of more than 36V, then the battery is fully charged and you can try troubleshooting another component.

Check the Battery Management System

If your ebike keeps cutting off, one of the most common reasons for such hiccups is a failing battery. If your battery pack is particularly choking when under load, then the issue could be that the battery management system is shutting it off to protect your battery pack from overeating.

Typically, the battery management system will cut off the power if it senses the battery draining too fast below certain safe levels.

Often than not, a severe voltage drop means that one or more cells in your battery pack have been damaged. There are several reasons for such malfunction including aging, too frequent charge cycles, improper battery management, and a manufacturing defect. 

If you’re experiencing power cuts with a new ebike that you’re just starting to use, it might be because the pack has been sized, engineered, or manufactured with less than the required high current capacity for supporting heavy loads.

When cells fail, it’s usually due to being under severe loads. One way to solve this is by dropping the assist level and pedaling a little harder when going up steep inclines or hills. This should reduce the load on your battery.

Another thing to keep an eye out for is the possibility of your battery arriving already pre-aged. This can happen in lower-quality batteries that are typically installed in cheaper bikes because they’re made by recycling batteries from other older devices such as laptops.

To find out if your battery is the culprit behind the repeated choking of your ebike, try using it on a different reliable electric bike with the same setup as yours. The same problem should happen if the battery is faulty. 

If you’ve owned your ebike for a few years and you’ve used it almost every day, the frequent rides may have just pushed the battery pack towards the natural end of its lifespan. Here, buying a new pack from the manufacturer will solve the issue.

Check the Battery Prongs

A failing battery can be the result of improper lining up of its prongs. If this is the case, the electrical circuit can’t be completed so no power will be produced.

Using a wrench, you can easily fix this issue by slightly bending the prongs to realign them into the correct position.

Check the Battery Charger Port

Additionally, you need to check the battery charger port. Be sure to first unplug the battery charger if it’s plugged into the wall. 

Next, plug the battery charger into the battery charger port on your ebike and observe the indicator light on the battery charger. If the indicator light illuminates when the charger is plugged into the electric bike, then the wiring and the wiring connectors going to the charger port as well the charger port itself are working.

If you have a voltmeter or a multimeter, you can test the voltage of the battery charger port. The level of the voltage measured at the charging port must be the same as the one rater for the battery pack. 

Alternatively, you can test the battery pack on another reliable electric bike where you ride the ebike at full throttle on flat ground. Note how long the battery pack will last. 

On flat ground, most ebikes have a battery range somewhere between 30 and 45 minutes. If your battery pack lasts less than 30 to 20 minutes, chances are it’s worn out and you have to replace it. Severely worn out batteries have a maximum range of 5 to 10 minutes.

• If your ebike features a headlight, you can perform a load test by fastening an arch-shaped piece of cardboard over the headlight so you can see the beam from the headlight while riding.

From here, you can fully charge the battery pack and ride your ebike with the headlight on. Keep an eye out for the headlight’s beam shining on the cardboard. 

If the battery is good, the headlight will dim just a bit when you give the ebike full throttle. If the beam on the headlight dims severely when you give the ebike full throttle, then you’ll know that the battery is worn out.

• If you can get your hands on a multimeter, you can perform a battery load test while your ebike is running. Start by fully charging the battery, then jack up the rear wheel by connecting the multimeter to the battery. Give the electric bike full throttle while engaging the brake on the rear without locking it up. 

When you engage the rear brake, the battery pack will go through a load so you can then read the voltage and find out how much it drops. If the battery is working well, the voltage will drop by a few volts only. Otherwise, the voltage will massively drop. 

2. Troubleshooting the Brake Motor Inhibitor

If you’ve dropped your ebike, then a part of the handlebars may have been damaged. You can easily spot this by visually inspecting your handlebars and brake levers for signs of any cosmetic damage. 

If you find that the brakes have been pulled back because of damage and can’t seem to break free, this will cause the motor inhibitor switch to stay turned on. To get your ebike running again, you’ll need to fix the jammed brake levers.

If the damage is significant, then the switch itself may require replacing. Such a process will need the skills of an expert electric bike mechanic.

• Some people may suggest that you use your controller to figure out which wires are for the brake inhibitor so you can disconnect them completely to get rid of the problem. However, we stress that you never do that as it can be extremely dangerous on the road.

If your brakes aren’t functioning properly, then you should check the shoes or the brake pads for signs of wear. If they’re damaged or worn out, replace them right away. You should also check the brake cable tension and adjust it if necessary.

If you find the brake pads or the brake shoes in good condition then you may want to tighten the brake cable adjuster on the brake lever or the brake itself until the brake becomes more responsive. Make sure that the brakes aren’t rubbing on the rotor or rim when the brake lever is released. 

Once you’ve adjusted the brake cable adjusters to the end of their limits, screw them all the way in. Then, tighten the brake cable by loosening the brake cable stopper, pulling the brake cable tight, and re-tightening the brake cable stopper. 

You can make a final adjustment to the brake cable tension by unthreading the brake cable adjuster until you get the right tension. 

• It’s crucial to your and others safety that you maintain the braking system; keep discs and rims clean and straight, promptly replace any worn-out brake shoes and pads, replace frayed or worn cables and housings, and lightly lubricate brake pivot points.

3. Troubleshooting the Controller

Think of the controller as the processor of your ebike operating system. As a result, it’s also one of the most common reasons why your electric bike may not be working properly. 

The controller’s job is to take input signals from all the controls and sensors on the ebike, analyze them, and then determine the best way to transfer the power coming from the battery to the motor.

Since the controller serves a huge yet sensitive purpose in the functioning of an ebike, the slightest technical glitch could ruin the established balance in any aspect including power transfer and distribution. 

Inspect your controller for any wires that may be loose, disconnected, or misconnected. If you do see disconnected cables, reconnect them to the proper port. In general, the wires should be color-coded so you can match the same color wire with the same color the outlet.

If the controller doesn’t work at all, make sure that the power switch is turned on. Also, check the fuse or circuit breaker.

If your ebike comes with a circuit breaker, you can reset the circuit breaker by pushing the breaker. However, you should be aware of any problems that may pop up as circuit breakers are designed to protect the system and there could already be an ongoing problem that’ll seriously damage components.

For ebikes with a fuse, you can simply remove it and hold it against some light to see if it’s burned out. If so, replace the fuse.

4. Troubleshooting the Throttle

A lot of ebikes on the market come with throttle control. If you overuse the throttle control, it may get stuck when pulled back and won’t return to the off position on its own.

If you do this repeatedly, the throttle will eventually loosen or get damaged. If this happens, you’ll tend to experience power cut-offs. 

The safest way to use the twist throttle is to pull it back and then slowly release it back into its original position once you’re done.

If the throttle is feeling loose or missing out on strokes from time to time, you can just replace it after testing whether or not it’s receiving steady power. This way you’ll know for sure that your throttle is to blame.

5. Troubleshooting the Pedal Assist

Malfunctions of the power or pedal assist system on your ebike may cause issues associated with pulsating or occasional power cut-offs. Different ebike models feature different pedal assist systems; some are built around the front sprocket chainring while others are built into the bottom bracket.

If you’ve recently made mechanical adjustments to the wheels, pedals, sprockets, derailleurs, and so on, this could be why you’re encountering power supply hiccups. Another reason for such issues could be the ring of magnets on the front sprocket; the sensors may be out of alignment due to being dirty or knocked around.

You can adjust the pedal-assist magnet position using a flathead screwdriver to push the disc nearer to the sensors. If this doesn’t work and you’re having a hard time determining whether or not your pedal assist system is faulty, it’s best to take your ebike to an electric bike service shop so they can remove and replace the faulty parts.

6. Troubleshooting the Motor Connections

As we mentioned earlier, loose wire connections are one of the most common reasons why you may be experiencing issues with your ebike. As such, the wires connected to the rear hub motor can often get loose, frayed, or damaged over time. 

If the wires are loose, you’ll probably have to replace the loose or damaged portions. Check if there are any melted or burned wires connected to the rear hub motor. 

Melted or burned wires are a sign of overheating. If the insulation on the copper coil wires melts due to overheating, occasional short circuits may occur causing the power to cut off. 

If the coils in the motor keep overheating, you’re potentially risking the motor’s integrity and may end up having to replace the motor to avoid damaging the controller.

Check the motor’s power transmission system for missing parts. Worn-out, missing, or damaged components could lead to problems in power transmission resulting in unwanted interruptions of power flow. 

There you have it, a comprehensive guide on how to troubleshoot common problems of ebikes. Even though DIY maintenance can be easy to perform, it’s still best to bring your electric bike to a service shop if you’re not fully confident in your skills.

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Parker Hall

Review: Trek Fetch+ 2

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One of the things that can be intimidating about buying a cargo ebike is how unfamiliar they feel. Whether a bike is designed with weird geometry and wheel sizes or odd features for heavy hauling, every ride can feel unfamiliar.

For traditional cyclists who want to haul a grocery store trip’s worth of groceries home but don’t want to mess with technology they’re unfamiliar with, the Trek Fetch+ 2 is a decent option. It’s more expensive than some of our favorite alternatives, but it has an easy-to-ride step-through design, well-made components, and great plastic buckets (and other accessories) for storage.

There are bikes with more advanced features for the money, but even after I spent a summer riding the Fetch+ 2, it barely needed a tune-up. For a modern cargo ebike with a classic cargo bike maintenance schedule, it might be worth spending a bit more cash.

On the Road

The Fetch+ 2 is the smaller of Trek’s two latest cargo ebikes, which includes the box-fronted Fetch+ 4 ($8,500) , which is more oriented toward toting around dogs and children in between groceries and beer.

The Fetch+ 2 instead is a more traditional step-through cargo bike that employs a myriad of attachments, most notably two plastic panniers that hang off an extended rack on the rear. You can get a padded seat cover for the rear to let friends hold on and ride, or mount a couple kids’ seats behind you, but I’d still probably use this bike more for errands than transporting little ones.

As an objet d’art , the bike is simple and unassuming, which is ideal for a bike this expensive. The battery is integrated into the frame, but a sizable bulge means nobody will fail to notice it's an ebike. You can get it in three colors. I liked the black of our review unit, but the bright blue would probably be my choice if I was buying one.

While much of the bike will be familiar to anyone who has ever seen or contemplated a cargo bike, Trek really gets the geometry and style of this bike correct as far as making it very usable for many tasks. Even the dual-sided kickstand pops up and down with remarkable ease (shockingly rare on other large ebikes I've used). I particularly enjoyed using the rear panniers for hauling flats of berries and other easily squished items that tend to rattle around in softer panniers.

The panniers fit a ton of stuff; I was able to get four full-size grocery bags spread between the two black plastic totes. I like that they had little plugs in the bottom that you could feasibly use a plastic bag to cover and then fill them with ice and drinks.

I spent a couple months using the Fetch+ 2 as my primary bike, and came away much more impressed than anticipated, given the specs and the price.

On paper, this is an expensive ebike to have pretty standard mid-drive cargo bike specs. The 85 Nm Bosch motor and 500-wH battery are good for 20-plus miles a day loaded down in any city, but they’re not better than models like the larger Xtracycle Stoker, which has the same torque and a 630-wH battery for $4,999. The Trek also doesn’t have a carbon belt drive and variable transmission, which we consider the best (and easiest to maintain) shifting mechanism for cargo bikes.

The more traditional chain-and-gears drivetrain and no suspension make this a less comfortable and more difficult-to-maintain bike than favorites like the Tern GSD ( 8/10, WIRED Recommends ), which costs about the same. I have to say, I was expecting the difference in riding experience to be more severe. The fatter-than-usual 20 x 2.35-inch tires of the Trek absorbed potholes better than other suspensionless bikes. It also stopped just as well as its competitors, thanks to hydraulic disc brakes.

Mid-drive cargo bikes are much better than their rear-hub counterparts, especially when toting larger items or smaller humans, because they allow you to get more torque to the wheels, and provide a more traditional riding experience. I never found myself lacking for power, though I did crunch through the gears a bit when starting on a hill.

The Fetch+ 2 rides really well, with a solid frame and no creaks or sketchiness of any kind (as picked up from my local Trek dealer, another plus of ordering from the brand), and I really liked how bright the built-in lights were when riding home from soccer games and band practices at night. The fat wheels were easy to turn, giving this a turning radius similar to a non-extended ebike when I was making U-turns in the city. It also has a built-in phone mount with a wireless charger, which makes it really nice for using a map app to cruise to unfamiliar places.

It’s not a fun bike to ride in the traditional sense; it’s not the fastest or the most comfortable, but it is satisfyingly robust and confidence-inducing. In my months of riding, I never had a single issue with the bike. That’s unusual given the state of some of the roads I often took the Fetch+ 2 on the side of, and a testament to Trek's great build quality.

If I was a longtime Trek owner and interested in getting into cargo ebikes, I’d certainly give this line a look, with the understanding that I might find something I like better from Tern, Xtracycle, or another brand for the same price—or something from Rad Power Bikes or another more affordable direct-to-consumer manufacturer for less. It’s a well-made bike that does what it claims to do, but it’s on the spendy side.

It is a bit hard to come by, at least in bike shops around my hometown of Portland, Oregon. If you’re interested in this one for your treks around town, I’d make sure to call ahead for a test ride. If you want a familiar-feeling bike with all the frills of electrification, it’s worth a spin.

How to Make Your Electric Bike Last Longer

Follow these steps to keep your electric bike and its battery running smoothly

By Michael Frank

with Ben Preston

A high-quality electric bike can be a significant investment, with prices ranging from less than $1,000 to well over $10,000, and the average in the $2,000 to $4,000 range. In addition to being costly to replace, high demand for e-bikes in some areas could make it tricky to find the one you want. Sales of electric motor-assisted bikes were 238 percent higher in 2023 than in 2019, according to Circana, a firm that tracks the industry.

At any price, an electric bike can pay big dividends in increased fitness and inexpensive transportation. Eleven percent of Americans have ridden an e-bike over the past year, according to a recent  nationally representative survey  of 2,035 U.S. adults conducted by CR (February 2024). The survey also found that, among those who had ridden an e-bike or an e-scooter in the past year, fun and leisure activities were one of the reasons 71 percent chose to ride an e-bike or e-scooter.

Owning an electric bike is much less expensive than owning a car or motorcycle in most cases and also contributes to your physical fitness. A 2021 study published in  Translational Journal  concluded that, compared with a regular bicycle, riding an electric bike for a simulated 3-mile commute resulted in lower metabolic, cardiovascular, and perceived effort and met the intensity level associated with healthy physical activity recommended by the World Health Organization and the American College of Sports Medicine. (The ACSM recommends at least 150 minutes per week of moderate cardiovascular exercise.)

Although they use parts that may be the same as or similar to what you’d find on a conventional bike, electric bikes also have an electric motor, typically powered by a lithium-ion battery. The added power and complexity make both riding and maintenance a bit different from a conventional bicycle, but following our tips can help you get the most from your electric bike.

We asked experts at bike brands Rad Power Bikes, Specialized, and Trek about the best methods to pedal your electric bike and for “hacks” to make it last longer, as well as advice on how to prevent your electric bike from being stolen. We also wanted to know the best ways to charge and maintain the battery, which can cost $500 or more to replace, and how to prevent an electric bike battery fire.

Here’s what they told us.

How to Shift Gears and Pedal on an Electric Bike

There are two common kinds of electric bikes: mid-drive, in which power from the electric motor helps turn the pedals and gets routed through the bike’s gearing, and hub-drive, in which the motor sends power directly to the rear wheel (pedal power from your legs still goes through the bike’s gearing).

Photo: Trek

Some e-bikes, regardless of where the motor is located, have a separate throttle control, typically a thumb-operated lever that applies electric power without the rider needing to pedal. This is handy for a quick, effortless takeoff, but it uses a lot more battery life than a pedal-assist setup, and that can limit the bike’s electric range, as well as the amount of exercise you’ll get from riding the bike.

Nate Bosscher, a senior engineer on the electric bikes team at Trek, says the motor on a mid-drive electric bike is “upstream of the gears and the chain, and that certainly puts more strain on the drivetrain than a non-e-bike.” You can reduce the wear and tear on the drivetrain by regular cleaning and lubrication, he says. Bosscher says hub-drive motors are less sensitive to strain than mid-drives.

Whether you’re riding a mid- or hub-drive electric bike, you should downshift to an easier gear ahead of a traffic light. That’s so you can resume pedaling without having to “mash” or stand on the pedals to make the bike move, Bosscher says.

You also don’t want to stand on the pedals with maximum force while trying to shift, which is especially hard on the bike’s transmission, Bosscher adds. This is true whether you’re shifting at a slower speed or flying down the road full-tilt. And it’s always best to lighten your pedaling as you shift gears to reduce wear on the gear cluster and chain. 

Marco Sonderegger, a senior product manager at Specialized, says that the best pedaling speed on the company’s mid-drive bikes is 70 to 90 rpm, which means your legs are moving at a speed similar to a fast jog. That typically puts less stress on the chain because you’re not putting a lot of torque on the system with each pedal stroke.

The moderate pedal speed also optimizes your range and eases the load on the motor because “the faster the internal electrical engine can spin, the higher the efficiency.”

Trek’s Bosscher says most e-bike manufacturers gear their motors for pedaling speeds of at least 60 rpm. For this reason, Sonderegger believes spinning at 70 to 90 rpm will increase your range roughly 10 to 12 percent compared with mashing at 50 rpm or slower.

That speed is also physically easier, Sonderegger says, because repeatedly pushing very hard and slowly is like doing heavy leg presses.

Caring for Your Electric Bike Battery

An e-bike’s battery can be one of its more expensive components, so it’s a good idea to care for the battery properly to ensure its long life and safe operation. The manufacturers we talked to said you can expect your bike’s battery to last for roughly five years. A lot will depend, of course, on how often you use the bike, where you store it, and how often you charge it.

Prolong Your Electric Bike's Battery Life

Regardless of how you ride, manufacturers shared a number of recommendations with CR for prolonging battery life.

Don’t drain the battery completely. Bike manufacturers use software to make sure batteries are not damaged during charging or discharging. But don’t let the battery get below 10 percent too frequently. Most electric bikes have an LCD display, or an indicator on the battery itself, so you can keep track.

Charge regularly. A spokesperson from Rad Power Bikes says you should recharge your battery after each ride, but then unplug the bike once it’s fully charged. Trek’s Bosscher says don’t let the battery get below 20 percent before recharging it. “Partially discharging and then charging will extend the service life of a battery significantly,” he says.

Store it partially charged. If you’re not going to ride your electric bike for a few weeks or longer, Bosscher says, it’s better to store the bike at less than fully charged. “Storing a battery at 100 percent charge is actually bad for its longevity,” he says. Trek’s guidelines recommend storage at between 40 and 80 percent charge, Rad says 75 percent, and Specialized at roughly 60 percent. Bosch, the German multinational engineering and technology company that makes a lot of the mid-drive bike components, recommends a 30 to 60 percent range. Consult the owner’s manual for specific guidance for your bike.

Cold is the enemy. As with anything powered by a battery, extremes of heat and cold will hamper your range. If storing an electric bike in an unheated shed during winter is your only option, take the battery indoors if you can and charge it separately at room temperature. Rad, Specialized, and Trek all say that riding in the cold won’t harm an electric bike’s battery, though you could see reduced range. However, your best bet is to start a ride with a battery that has been stored and charged in your heated home, then inserted in your bike before departure.

Wash with care. While electric bike batteries and related wiring are generally well-insulated from even heavy rain, they’re not designed to be submerged or cleaned by a high-pressure washer. Rad recommends removing the battery from the frame, wiping down the battery case and tray with a damp cloth, and allowing everything to dry completely before reassembling. This is consistent with Bosch’s guidance and that of other manufacturers. Wash a bicycle with a sponge and soapy water rather than a garden hose to prevent forcing water past delicate grease seals, which hold components (like bearings) that need to stay sealed and well-oiled. 

Prevent an Electric Bike Battery Fire

Although electric bike fires are relatively rare, their number and intensity have been on the rise as e-bikes have proliferated—particularly in New York City, where delivery riders and commuters have been using them for years already. Here are some tips from the New York City Fire Department about how to prevent electric bike fires.

• Buy an electric bike that is certified by a qualified testing laboratory.
• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for charging and storage.
• Always use the manufacturer’s cord and power adapter made specifically for the bike.
• Do not leave an electric bike unattended while it’s charging, and don’t leave it charging overnight.
• If a battery overheats or you notice an odor, a change in shape or color, leaking, or odd noises, stop using it immediately.
• If the battery reacts in an alarming way, and it is safe to do so, move the device away from anything that can catch fire and call 911.
• Keep batteries and devices at room temperature. Do not place them in direct sunlight.
• Store batteries away from anything flammable.
• Do not use aftermarket batteries.
• Do not charge an electronic device under your pillow, on your bed, or near a couch.
• Do not block your primary way into and out of the building with an electric bike.
• Do not leave an electric bike in a child’s room or in any sleeping areas.

Deter Electric Bike Thieves

A chain or U-lock is absolutely necessary if you’re going to park your electric bike on the street. See CR’s bike lock ratings and reviews for more information. Always lock through a part of the frame and one of the wheels to a fixed structure. Worst case: Lock it to something that’s a chore to move. Electric bikes are relatively heavy so moving both the bicycle and another object would deter most thieves. Always remove the battery, too. Since bike sales have boomed, so have bike thefts . Removing the battery from an electric bike is an easy deterrent because that superhot commodity doesn’t look so appealing to a thief if it’s missing one of its most expensive parts. 

It’s a good idea to remove the bike’s battery even if your e-bike is locked to a rack on your car or RV, because exposure to weather and extremes in temperature isn’t great for that battery, either—and, again, will make your bicycle that much less enticing to criminals.

Consumer Reports is an independent, nonprofit organization that works side by side with consumers to create a fairer, safer, and healthier world. CR does not endorse products or services, and does not accept advertising. Copyright © 2024, Consumer Reports, Inc.

Green Deals

Save $700 on heybike explore e-bike at $1,199, niu bqi-c3 pro e-bike for $1,300, and more.

We’ve got another day of e-bike discounts on today’s Green Deals, headlined by Heybike’s Mother’s Day Sale that it taking up to $700 off a large selection of models, most notably the Explore Step-Thru Off-Road e-bike for $1,199 . It is joined by another 1-day sale on the NIU BQi-C3 Pro e-bike that is back at its $1,300 low , as well as another returning low rate for the blue Hover-1 Altai Pro R500 e-bike at $954 . Plus all of the other days’ Green Deals that are still going.

Head below for other New Green Deals we’ve found today and, of course,  Electrek ’s best EV buying  and  leasing deals . Also, check out the new  Electrek Tesla Shop for the best deals on Tesla accessories .

Heybike Mother’s Day Sale takes $700 off Explore e-bike now at $1,199

Heybike has launched a  Mother’s Day Sale  that is taking  up to $700 off  a large selection of the company’s popular e-bike models, with some receiving free add-on accessories as well. The greatest of these deals is on the  Explore Step-Thru Off-Road e-bike for  $1,199 shipped . Down from its usual $1,899 price tag, this model has seen relatively few discounts over the last year in comparison with some of its counterparts. Last month was the first time since the start of the new year that we saw a price cut, dropping costs to the new $1,049 low. Today’s deal comes in as a 37% markdown off the going rate and lands at the second-lowest price we have tracked – just $150 above the all-time low. You can learn more about this model below or by reading our  hands-on review .

Heybike’s  Explore Step-Thru e-bike  comes equipped with a 750W brushless geared hub motor (1,200W peak) alongside a 48V battery that gets the bike up to a max speed of 28 MPH for up to 70 miles on a single charge. You can customize your riding experience through its five different pedal assist levels and 7-speed gears, with a twist grip throttle for pure electric action, while the 4-inch wide puncture-resistant fat tires ensure effortless handling when you go off the beaten path. It also features mechanical disc brakes, a shock-absorbing suspension fork, a shock-absorbing saddle, a rear cargo rack, LED head and taillights, a kickstand, as well as an LCD display that gives you real-time performance statuses and allows for setting adjustments. It also comes with two free baskets – one for the front, and a larger cargo basket to mount on its rear rack.

Get the NIU BQi-C3 Pro e-bike at $1,300 low for today only

Today only, Best Buy is offering the  NIU BQi-C3 Pro e-bike for  $1,299.99 shipped . Down from its usual $2,200 price tag, in the new year we’ve seen two previous 1-day sales like this back on Valentine’s day, where it fell to $1,500 and at the top of this month, where it returned to $1,300 for the first time since Labor Day sales. Today’s deal comes in as a repeat 41% markdown off the going rate and landing as a return to the all-time low matching Labor Day sales. You can learn more about this e-bike by heading below the fold or by reading through our  hands-on review .

The  NIU BQI-C3 Pro  comes equipped with a 750W peak-rated rear hub motor alongside dual 48V 10.0Ah batteries that propel the bike up to 28 MPH for up to 90 miles on a single charge. It fully recharges from empty in just five hours, and settings can be monitored and controlled via the companion app thanks to NIU’s smart control technology that has been carried over to this model from its popular lines of electric scooters. It also comes with plenty of extra features that enhance the riding experience like a kickstand, the integrated rear cargo rack, fenders for both wheels, an LED headlight and taillight, puncture-resistant tires, internally routed wiring, IP65 waterproof rating for the motor, IP67 waterproof rating for the battery, and a 3.5-inch TFT color display that gives you real-time readouts of both individual battery levels, distance, travel times, speed, and more.

Save $1,346 on Hover-1’s blue Altai Pro R500 e-bike at $954

Amazon is offering the  Hover-1 Altai Pro R500 e-bike (blue model) for  $954.46 shipped . Down from its regular $2,300 price tag, it wasn’t until early Christmas sales that we saw the price get taken down to $1,386, with most of the discounts we’ve seen in 2024 so far being on the other color schemes, except two – first to $1,138 in March and then further to the $922 low at the top of the month. Today’s deal comes in as a 59% markdown off the going rate, giving you $1,346 in savings and landing at the second-lowest price we have tracked. The  red model is currently going for  $2,116 shipped , and the  jet black model going for  $2,108 shipped .

The  Altai Pro R500  is designed with the stylish frame of a motorcycle, this e-bike comes equipped with a 500W motor and a 48V/20Ah lithium-ion battery that can reach top speeds of 28 MPH and travel up to 60 miles on a single charge. It typically takes seven to eight hours to fully charge, and the battery is removable from the body for more convenient charging. Its 20-inch fat tires help you traverse uneven terrain, and it has been outfitted with a headlight, taillight, and turn signals. It also comes decked out in an array of accessories: dual side mirrors, a phone storage bag, side and rear racks, two saddle bags, a rear mudguard, a triangular storage bag, and a folding lock. Through the Hover-1 E-Mobility app you can even track your riding distance, navigate with GPS, and adjust the e-bike’s settings.

Spring e-bike deals!

• Super73 RX Electric Motorbike: $2,999 (Reg. $3,695)
• Juiced JetCurrent Pro Foldable e-bike (pre-order): $2,499 (Reg. $2,799)
• Juiced’s HyperScrambler 2: $1,999 (Reg. $3,499)
• Vanpowers UrbanGlide Ultra e-bike: $1,899 (Reg. $2,499)
• Aventon Aventure.2 All-Terrain e-bike with free extra battery: $1,799 ($2,499 value)
• Aventon Abound Cargo e-bike with $372 in free accessories: $1,799 (Reg. $2,199)
• Hover-1 Altai Pro R750 e-bike: $1,490 (Reg. $3,000)
• Electric Bike Co. Model J e-bike: $1,299 (Reg. $1,499)
• Lectric XPress 750 High-Step e-bike with extra battery (pre-order): $1,299 (Reg. $1,799)
• Lectric XPress 750 Step-Thru e-bike with extra battery (pre-order): $1,299 (Reg. $1,799)
• Vanpowers UrbanGlide Pro e-bike: $1,299 (Reg. $1,899)
• Velotric Nomad 1 e-bike: $1,299 (Reg. $1,799)
• Velotric Discover 1 e-bike: $1,099 (Reg. $1,599)
• Vanpowers UrbanGlide Standard e-bike: $999 (Reg. $1,299)
• Schwinn Ridgewood Electric Mountain Bike: $800 (Reg. $1,500)
• Schwinn Ingersoll Electric Hybrid Bike: $700 (Reg. $1,500)

Other new Green Deals landing this week

The savings this week are also continuing to a collection of other markdowns. To the same tune as the offers above, these all help you take a more energy-conscious approach to your routine. Winter means you can lock in even better off-season price cuts on electric tools for the lawn while saving on EVs and tons of other gear.

• RadRover 6 Plus high-step e-bike hits new $1,099 low during Rad Power’s latest flash sale
• Rachio 3 smart 4-zone sprinkler controller keeps yards vibrant and lowers bills for new $99 low
• Juiced Bikes takes $300 off two e-bikes for limited-time flash sales starting from $1,149
• Save $230 on the EGO Power+ 21-inch cordless electric mower at $419 low, more from $123
• Hover-1 Instinct electric bike falls to new $534 low (Reg. $1,000), more EVs starting from $280
• Save up to $300+ on TENWAYS CGO series e-bikes with bonus savings starting from $1,499
• Save $501 on GoTrax’s Everest electric dirt bike with 53 MPH top speeds
• Husqvarna’s Automower 115H robotic lawn mower with smart controls now $599 (Reg. $700)
• Jetson’s Canyon folding electric scooter with 22-mile range falls to $380 ($520 in savings)
• Greenworks 40V 12-inch compact chainsaw tackles storm cleanup for $124 (Reg. $180)
• Sun Joe’s 1,450 PSI electric pressure washer with detergent tank falls to $142, more from $59
• Amazon Basics 2,000mAh rechargeable AA NiMH battery 16-pack falls 33% to $18
• NIU’s Earth Day Sale takes up to 40% off e-scooters including new KQi Air X pre-orders

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Magnum’s first mid-drive mountain e-bike delivers intuitive balance with powerful torque pedal assist and throttle. Quick-release rear wheel to stow effortlessly on your way to the trail.

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Ride farther on our upgraded step-thru beach cruiser. Longer range, larger display, upgraded electrical system, and wider tires. The iconic plush seat and high handlebars are here to stay.

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Torque pedal assist gives you extra control and an extremely smooth ride. This versatile fat tire e-bike features hydraulic disc brakes and step-thru frame with integrated battery.

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