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Travel 1003/1003c/1103c/503.

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Torqeedo Travel 1003

• Thread starter Brian Schwerdt
• Start date Jul 3, 2011
• Forums for All Owners
• Engines and Propulsion

Brian Schwerdt

After fighting with an unreliable mercury 4 for a couple of years (and I think ethanol might have finally done her in), I finally made the leap into the electric world and bought a Torqeedo Travel 1003 for my O'Day 22. I have tried to find some reviews on this motor, and have come up short so I thought I might share my own experiences. This motor draws up to about 1KW from its 520Wh 29.6V Lithium batteries (built in). Torqeedo claims that it is roughly equivalent to a 3HP gas outboard. There are a list of specs on Torqeedo's website, and the product works as advertised. My boat is about 2000lbs plus crew and I sail on a lake with little to no current. On a calm day, it will move my boat at about 2 knots drawing 200W, or about 5 knots drawing 1KW (the merc 4 could only push her about 1/2 knot faster). I am absolutely thrilled with this motor! The maintenance is next to nothing, it's infinitely more reliable than the old merc, and it's much quieter (although not as quiet as a true trolling motor) not to mention instant on/off. Overall, however, I would not make a blanket recommendation for this motor. If you are considering one, make sure that you are well aware of its limitations and how you intend to use it. For example, in my case I never fight current (doesn't really exist where I sail) or wind (if it's windy, I'm using the wind, not fighting it). What's more, being on a lake, I can only get so far from my marina. I would NOT take this as my only motor on open water. On the other hand, if you are like me and are in a lake with little to no current, and bought a sailboat to sail it, not to slowly motor around, then I highly recommend you consider this motor. It is well worth the price (and the lifetime cost may well be less than or at least on par with that of a small gasser).  

I have an electric motorcycle and have developed a nervous condition where I constantly worry that I might run out of juice far from home. Your lake looks longer than the range of the battery. Let us know if the same medical condition afflicts you too and so then you don't sail further than the battery will allow.  

Donalex said: I have an electric motorcycle and have developed a nervous condition where I constantly worry that I might run out of juice far from home. Your lake looks longer than the range of the battery. Let us know if the same medical condition afflicts you too and so then you don't sail further than the battery will allow. Click to expand

How long would it take to recharge with say 30 watts of solar panels?  

If the pack is at about 80% discharge, ya going to need say 400 Watt Hours to recharge it.. A 30 watt charger should return about 180 watt hours per day (yes sometimes it will make more..and sometimes less) so in rough numbers, it takes 2 days and 4-5 hours to recharge fully.  

kloudie1 said: If the pack is at about 80% discharge, ya going to need say 400 Watt Hours to recharge it.. A 30 watt charger should return about 180 watt hours per day (yes sometimes it will make more..and sometimes less) so in rough numbers, it takes 2 days and 4-5 hours to recharge fully. Click to expand

This is a rich mans motor. With a purchase price of $1700 and a price of $600-700 for a replacement battery you could buy a lot of rebuild kits for that old gas engine and a lot of ethanol free fuel. I agree that it may work in your closed environment, but I would be very reluctant to use this any place that your life may depend on one of these motors.  

Steve Dion said: This is a rich mans motor. With a purchase price of $1700 and a price of $600-700 for a replacement battery you could buy a lot of rebuild kits for that old gas engine and a lot of ethanol free fuel. I agree that it may work in your closed environment, but I would be very reluctant to use this any place that your life may depend on one of these motors. Click to expand

Brian, you could do a lot less expensive with one of the MinnKota transome mounts.. and a set of golf cart batts and a good charger..these are corrosion protected for salt water and should be really good in fresh water.. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/products/trolling_motors/saltwater_transom_mount/riptide_transom.aspx They also make an "electric outboard motor" that for about the same price as the Torqueedo, has some much nicer features.. Give their web site a look..  

kloudie1 said: Brian, you could do a lot less expensive with one of the MinnKota transome mounts.. and a set of golf cart batts and a good charger..these are corrosion protected for salt water and should be really good in fresh water.. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/products/trolling_motors/saltwater_transom_mount/riptide_transom.aspx They also make an "electric outboard motor" that for about the same price as the Torqueedo, has some much nicer features.. Give their web site a look.. Click to expand

Sorry, I missed the fact that you'd already bought one.. If you can get to the Practical Sailor magazine on line stuff, they did a pretty good evaluation of the Torqueedo a few months back.. I wish ya luck with the electrifying experience..  

Electric is a great option for inland small to mid size lakes. I once motored my old Mac 22 (no wind) for two hours across a lake with a 40 lb thrust trolling motor and a single deep cycle battery. It was a windless early morning and motoring was the only option. It wasn't fast but got the job done and total investment was maybe $200.  

After farting around with my gas outboard again all day to get it running, I'm about to put it up for sale and go electric. Since the torqeedo sounds pricey and easy to recharge on the boat I'll probably go with a 24 volt 80-100 lbs thrust trolling motor. Since I only need to run it for 20 minutes in and out of the lake marina, should work well for me. I figure I can sell my 9.9 Mercury for more than enough to buy a transom mount trolling motor, new batteries and an additional solar panel. And....no more stinky gas tanks on my sailboat!  

Fly_H23 said: After farting around with my gas outboard again all day to get it running, I'm about to put it up for sale and go electric. Since the torqeedo sounds pricey and easy to recharge on the boat I'll probably go with a 24 volt 80-100 lbs thrust trolling motor. Since I only need to run it for 20 minutes in and out of the lake marina, should work well for me. I figure I can sell my 9.9 Mercury for more than enough to buy a transom mount trolling motor, new batteries and an additional solar panel. And....no more stinky gas tanks on my sailboat! Click to expand

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Product Reviews

Torqeedo’s Travel 1003

Clean, quiet outboard power

From Issue   September 2015

Torqeedo’s outboards with ratings up to an equivalent of 8 hp are designed without anti-ventilation plates. The foil-sectioned shafts on all but the smallest outboard aid in keeping surface air from getting to the prop.

F or decades I resisted boating under power and took pride in getting where I wanted to go under my own steam or under sail. That changed when I had kids: they were too young to help with rowing, the summer winds are usually too light for getting anywhere by sailing, and the joy of hanging out with them meant more to me than manning the oars. I built a Caledonia yawl with them in mind and installed a motor well. I bought a small 2.5-hp Yamaha outboard—a four-stroke to avoid leaving behind a cloud of stinky blue smoke typical of two-stroke outboards—but it still had an environmental impact in both the fuel it consumed and the peace it disturbed. For the past 11 years, Torqeedo has worked to eliminate both with their electric motors. In 2010 I tried the smallest motor they produce, the Ultralight, on a kayak. The equivalent of a 1-hp motor, the Ultralight would drive the kayak at an impressive 4 ¼ knots and an exciting 5 ½ knots after I added a foil-shaped fairing to the tubular shaft.

The two Travel motors are the smallest of the Torqeedo outboards. The Travel 503 is rated as the equivalent of a 1.5-hp gas motor; the Travel 1003, the equivalent of a 3-hp. I tried the Travel 1003S (S for short shaft) on three different boats: the Caledonia yawl, a Whitehall, and an Escargot canal boat. Torqeedo lists the shaft length for the Travel 1003S at 62.5 cm (24 5/8″), a measurement from the bearing surface of the mounting bracket to the center of the prop. On gas outboards the shaft length is commonly measured to the anti-ventilation plate, not the propeller axis; the Travel 1003 has no anti-ventilation plate, but I measured 46.5 cm (18 ¼″) to where one would be. That’s roughly the maximum span between the bottom of the hull and the site for the mounting bracket. The shaft length for the Travel 1003L is listed as 75cm/29.5″.)

Disassembling the motor makes it much easier to stow out of the way when it’s not needed. The long pin locks the battery pack in place.

The Travel 1003 weighs 30 lbs, 7 lbs less than my Yamaha, and it separates into three pieces—the tiller and its computer just shy of 2 lbs, the battery at 12 lbs, and the lower unit about 16 lbs—making it a whole lot easier to move around, mount, and stow.

Set in the motor well of a Caledonia yawl, the Travel 1003 S reached a maximum speed of 5 knots. The orange pin on the bench locks the shaft when the boat’s rudder is used for steering. The orange tab on the tiller is a magnetic kill switch.

I used the Travel 1003 first on my Caledonia yawl, a 19′ 6″ x 6′ 2″ double-ender. With the motor at full throttle, the yawl peaked at 5.0 knots. My Yamaha logged a top speed of 5.8 knots. (I have an electric trolling motor rated at 40 lbs of thrust, but it falls so far short of the Travel 1003 that I don’t bother including it in these trials.)  A built-in computer with GPS shows the percentage of battery charge and the distance it will take you at the speed indicated. At full speed a full charge had a cruising range of 2.4 nm. At 4 knots that range increased to 6.3 nm, at 3 knots 9.5nm, and at 2 knots 15.6 nm. The speeds and ranges I recorded were consistent with Torqeedo’s data for the Travel 1003 .

Ranges predicted by the Travel 1003 for a full battery charge with three boats at various speeds

There is a slight lag in the response to the throttle, and the motor will ramp up to the selected speed rather than apply full power immediately. That keeps the boat from lurching about, and, I imagine, prolongs the life of the motor and the boat. Even with the lag and ramp-up, I was impressed with how quickly the Travel 1003 could bring the yawl from 5 knots at full speed ahead to a dead stop: just 3 seconds and less than two boat-lengths.

The Travel 1003 operates in reverse, and a latch keeps the shaft locked down to prevent the prop from climbing. The yawl made 3.5 knots with the Travel 1003 in reverse at full throttle. (The Yamaha does not have reverse but rotates through 360 degrees, as does the Travel 1003.) Releasing the latch allows the motor to kick up over obstructions while moving forward and to be raised to reduce the drag while rowing or sailing. A removable pin will lock the Travel 1003 facing straight ahead for steering with a boat’s rudder.

The Travel 1003 is quiet but not completely silent. It has a whine that rises in pitch and volume as the throttle gets cranked up, but even at its loudest it is neither an impediment to a conversation nor anywhere near as loud as my gas outboard. It doesn’t vibrate either, so there’s no rattling anywhere on the boat. Its relatively quiet operation at low-to-moderate speeds is great for dinner cruises. I’m used to gauging speed by the racket my gas motor makes when moving along at a good clip, but even at full throttle, the sound the Travel 1003 makes belies how fast the boat is moving; it’s more like sailing than motoring.

On my 14′ lapstrake Whitehall the Travel 1003 peaked at 5.5 knots. (I didn’t—and wouldn’t—try to mount the heavier Yamaha on the transom—there’s little buoyancy in the stern.) I also did trials with my son’s 19′ 6″ x 6′ Escargot canal boat , weighing over a half ton with gear and two of us aboard. It brought the canal boat up to 4.4 knots, just slightly slower than the Yamaha at 4.7 knots.

Torqueedo claims on its website that the Travel 1003 “can do everything a 3-hp petrol outboard can, plus it’s environmentally friendlier, quieter, lighter, and more convenient.” The latter half of that is certainly true, but I’d suggest the former isn’t a good comparison to make. According to the owner’s manual, my Yamaha has a maximum output of 2.5 horsepower or 1.8 kW at 5,500 rpm, while the Travel 1003 display reads 1,000 watts (1.0 kW) at full throttle with  maximum propeller speed listed by Torqeedo at 1,200 rpm. Going by the numbers gets murky. The Yamaha rating is for propeller-shaft horsepower, and the Torqeedo rating is for input power with propulsive power at 480 watts; static thrust is listed as 68 lbs, but that’s not calculated the same way as it is for trolling motors. Torqeedo offers some clarification on the terms and their equivalence with gas outboards, but my sea trials for top speed didn’t bear that out for the Travel 1003, even up against a 2.5-hp instead of a 3-hp gas outboard.

I haven’t made precise mileage calculations for my gas outboard, but one measurement I made on Google Earth for a passage on a full tank of gas (0.24 gallon) was 6 miles, running at about two-thirds throttle. That’s 25 miles per gallon. At a comparable speed the Travel 1003 will cover about the same distance. To extend the range of my gas outboard, I’ll carry two 2.5-gallon gas cans for a range of 125 miles. For the Travel 1003, an extra battery, at $650, brings the range to 16 miles. For charging away from home, Torqeedo offers a 50-watt solar charger for the Travel 1003, and it is possible to recharge its battery from an in-board 12-volt system. In my experience recharging was an overnight process, only slightly more than the 14 hours listed by Torqeedo; the latest models have cut that time  in half. While I don’t have to think much about my range with my gas outboard, the Travel 1003 would require some thoughtful planning to achieve the same range for an extended cruise. If your outings with the Travel 1003 aren’t pushing the limits of its range, you can use the energy for other purposes: its battery has a port you can use to charge electronic devices.

Christopher Cunningham is the editor of Small Boats Monthly.

Torqeedo  distributes its products through a network of dealers and offers the Travel 1003  for $1,999 with a two-year warrantee.

Thanks to reader Elliot Arons for suggesting this review.

A Cautionary Tale

When I tested the Travel 1003 on my Whitehall, I put thin plywood pads on the varnished transom to protect it from the motor’s mounting bracket and turned the screws down as tight as I could, knowing they wouldn’t leave their mark on the mahogany. The Whitehall isn’t meant to carry an outboard, let alone maintain trim with the weight of a motor and its operator well aft, so I sat as far forward as I could and still keep a hand on the motor’s tiller. I made a few runs, back and forth in a protected canal, some at full speed. On the last run, while at full power, the tiller slipped suddenly from between my fingers and the motor turned 90 degrees, pushing parallel to the transom. It then twisted almost to horizontal and then slipped off the transom. I lunged for it as it went overboard and got a hand on the tiller. The magnetic kill switch disengaged and the prop stopped turning. I thought I had averted disaster, but as the boat carried forward, the angle between the tiller and the motor opened up and they parted, just as they’re meant to do if you’re disassembling the pieces for transport or storage. The cable from the tiller didn’t have a connection strong enough to hold the battery and lower unit, and down they went. I was left holding the tiller, a bit stunned.

To recover the motor I needed to find it first, then snag it. The underwater video system and a hastily made grappling hook did the job.

I went home and made a grappling hook out of steel rod and connected it to my Harbor Freight underwater video camera. I was feeling hopeful about recovering the motor—it had gone down in a narrow stretch of water, and I had a pretty good idea of where it would have come to rest. Unfortunately, the water in the area was about 25′ deep and the light on the bottom was dim, so the video camera could show only a narrow swath of the sandy bottom. The next day I tried again, but it was too difficult to manage the boat and control the depth of the camera at the same time. I returned with my son Nate, and we were about to give up when he spotted the motor. It went in and out of the camera’s view, but after 20 minutes he got the hook on the power cable and brought the motor and battery up.

The Travel 1003 has an IP67 rating and is waterproof for 30 minutes at 1 meter, but not for two days at 25′. The red indicator light on the battery case blinked on a few times, and that was its last sign of life. I opened the case to get the water out of it and the damage to the batteries and the circuit board was evident.

I can’t fault the Travel 1003. I’m not sure what caused the sudden turn, but with the motor running at full power I should have had a firm grip on the tiller. The Travel 1003 can rotate 360 degrees and can be oriented parallel to the transom. My Yamaha is the same way and has, on two occasions, twisted its bracket a bit out of position when turned 90 degrees and gunned for tight maneuvering. Larger outboards may have stops to limit their steering range and lessen the chances of prying themselves off a transom. The plywood pads I used to protect my Whitehall’s transom may have lessened the Travel 1003’s grip, but if my calculation for the torque created—140 ft-lbs—is correct, it may have dislodged itself even without the pads.

Three precautions come to mind for small outboards that can rotate to 90 degrees on either side. A solidly anchored cleat along the edge of the transom where the motor is attached would serve as a stop for the clamps on the inboard side. Some commercially made pads for the inside face of the transom have a lip at the top meant to keep a loosened clamp from slipping off. (They require more time to get the motor in place; a couple of slots cut off-center alleviate that problem.) Secondly, a safety cable or chain can tether the motor to the boat. My Yamaha has a hole in the mounting bracket meant for a cable and includes a recommendation in the instruction manual to use it. The Travel 1003 has holes in the clamp screw handles that can serve as safety-cable attachment points; a note about using them as such would be a worthy addition to its user manual. Finally, hang on to the tiller.— CC

Epilogue (October 2, 2015)

While it was clear to me that an outboard capable of rotating through 360° has the potential to turn to 90°—parallel to the transom—and wrench itself out of position or tear itself off entirely, I didn’t understand what had caused the motor to turn in the first place. I found a likely explanation in the September/October issue of WoodenBoat magazine. That issue’s “Getting Started in Boats” feature is “A Small Outboard Motor Primer” by Jan Adkins. Jan describes “The Death Spiral,” a common accident in which the operator of an outboard skiff is thrown overboard by a sudden turn and often severely injured when the boat circles around. Here’s the cause of the spiral: “For any reason (inattention, slippery hands, a reflex to reach for something) the helmsperson’s steering hand leaves the outboard tiller/handle. Unequal resistance between the deep propeller blade and the shallow propeller blade exerts torque that twists the outboard to port. The small boat turns violently to starboard….”

In my case, I had a loose grip on the tiller and the motor twisted itself off the transom rather than cause a sharp turn to starboard. Because the boat hadn’t turned violently and I had been looking over the bow at the time, I don’t have a clear memory of which way the motor had turned (and I had revarnished the transom of my Whitehall) but the slight scars that remained indicated that the motor had indeed twisted to port. (The Travel 1003’s propeller has a right-hand rotation—clockwise when viewed from astern—typical of outboards and would twist to port. A left-hand prop would cause a boat to turn to port.)

My Yamaha has a screw that increases the friction in the mount to lock the motor in position if I’m using a rudder to steer. If I’m steering with the motor I maintain a little friction so I can steer well but don’t have to “micromanage” the tiller. The Travel 1003 uses a pin to lock the motor for using a rudder to steer and without the pin the motor can rotate freely. Even though the Yamaha can be adjusted for turning friction, I’ll be much more careful with both motors when using them to steer.— CC

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Comments (10)

I have had Torqeedo Travel 1003 for several years. It has a strong battery and will push my Norseboat 17.5 for about 10 miles at 3.0 knots. As you say, it is not a good choice for extended multi-day trips where recharging may be difficult, but for a day trip or overnight it’s great.

Aside from the advantages you mention, there is no winterizing, spark plugs to foul, or fuel to spill. Best of all it starts with a twist of the throttle. I feel confident sending my kids or friends out without worrying about their ability to get a gas motor running.

The only drawback, as you point out, is the range, which I bet most of us never exceed anyway. The advantages are far more persuasive to me. If everyone was already using Torqeedos and the gas outboard was introduced as an alternative, I bet very few people would by one.

We have a 1003 that we use on our 28′ Stuart Knockabout which displaces 4,000 lbs. We have a removable side bracket made of very heavy stainless. We had 4-hp Yamaha 4-stroke on it for years and you you could go straight to full throttle. First time we tried that with the 1003, the incredible torque cracked the bracket! After we had it rewelded, we now accelerate slowly and never go to full throttle until the boat has some way on her. Full throttle is just shy of 5 knots and we usually run at 3 if the wind dies. Great motor! I only wish the tiller display was easier to read without glasses!

It should be noted that, unlike a gas motor, the Torqeedo must be removed when sailing. According to the manufacturer, it can not be freewheeled without damage to the motor. This is a pain, especially when one wants to go just a short distance before switching to sail. The motor must be taken off and stowed before sailing. I never worry about drag on my Caledonia, so I would rather leave the motor in the well, but it’s a no-go.

Question: Can the Torqeedo tilt up out of water if mounted on a transom?

Yes, the Torqeedo Travel can be tilted up out of the water just like any small outboard motor, so you can raise it for sailing, rowing, or coming ashore without having to remove it from the transom.

As a Torqeedo dealer and user on the Mississippi Gulf Coast, let me offer a clarification about the Travel 1003’s horsepower. The motor has a power consumption of 1000 watts at top speed, which is equal only to about 1 1/3 hp. While this keeps power consumption low, it also keeps the motor under 2 hp, which is useful for boats like the SolarSkiff that are designed following the US Coast Guard standards for watercraft with engines under 2 hp. However, Torqeedo claims a propulsive force equivalent to that of a 3 to 4 hp gas engine: its electric motor is more efficient at converting its 1000 watt input power into propulsive output power, hence the 3-4 hp “equivalency.” My wife and I had a chance to put this power claim to the test this summer. We crossed the Bay of St. Louis in a two-person SolarSkiff for a group picnic at some friends’ home across the Bay. Going over in the late morning, the winds were light. Coming back, however, the afternoon seabreeze predictably began to fill in and it wasn’t long before we were motoring back against 12-knot winds, gusting to 15, with whitecaps everywhere. The Torqeedo Travel 1003 had the power to keep us moving against the wind and waves with no problem: we can’t do that with a 55 lb-thrust trolling motor! While I can honestly say that 12-mph winds are about the top that I would plan to be out on the water in a small craft with a Torqeedo, it both had the power and the range we needed that day for the 6-1/2 mile round trip. I did take my Torqeedo battery charger in my dry bag, though, and plugged the battery in while we enjoyed lunch with our friends, just to make sure we had sufficient power for the return home.

The most I have run my battery down is to 20% of its maximum capacity, with the motor conveniently and automatically beeping reminder warnings when it hits 30%, 20%, and 10% capacity. With the new lithium-ion battery design, it fully recharged in only 5 hours. The 7-hour recharge with the new battery is for a recharge of a fully discharged battery, whether plug-in or solar.

Chris, Congrats on the outstanding, detailed piece on the Torqeedo and the performance comparison to your Yamaha. I believe the current Torqeedo is a breakthrough product. I broke a long-time promise to myself never to sell my 5-hp 2-stroke Johnson. But, at long last, its 46-lb weight had become too much; its occasional hard-starting caused by water in that miserable fuel known as ethanol had become discouraging, as had the endless pulls on the starter cord.

There is little to add to your piece but the following may also be of help to those considering purchase of a Torqeedo. In your photo of the disassembled motor, there is a small orange peg shown beside the larger orange rod used to secure the battery to the motor. Although I have not found mention of it in the owner’s manual, the orange peg is meant to be inserted through a hole in the motor’s top portion into a hole in the leg. It prevents the head from rotating so the motor can’t be turned as accidentally happened to you when you least needed it. This would be of most use in an application where the boat’s rudder is there to steer with. It would not be practical on the transom of a rowboat where rotating the motor is needed for steering.

Oddly, I recall reading an owner review of the Torqeedo in which he complained that the mounting screws loosened up and his motor fell off. For whatever reason, this may be something owners should check before every outing to ensure things are really, really tight. It was good of you to note there are holes in the clamp handles by which they may be secured to the boat. The owner’s manual should mention this aspect. In my own application on the transom of an inflatable, I have one of those locking devices that slides over the clamping screw handles and effectively prevents them from loosening in any threatening manner. I can imagine your experience was quite unnerving.

As a motor for an inflatable or dinghy to get one from dock to mooring and back, the Torqeedo is perfect. I have found that full-throttle operation for about 25-30 minutes takes the battery down to about 62% but recharging at home has the battery back to full charge in rather little time. When I had the chance to use the Torqeedo 1003 longshaft as a sailboat auxiliary, I found that it easily moved a 3100-lb keel daysailer when the wind died. Putting it on the side bracket was a relative pleasure because, when broken down into its three main components, weight is not an issue. (I have tied a line from the battery to the battery mount rod so the latter can’t be lost overboard.) About 15-20 minutes running at part throttle brought us back to the mooring. Again, recharging was quickly done at home. The key for such an application, as the Stuart Knockabout owner noted, is the motor’s torque. I believe an electric motor develops peak torque at 0 rpm and that is key to getting a boat moving and then keeping it going steadily. But speed should not be a priority.

After one season, about the only improvements I can think of would be larger numbers on the readout display, a less abrupt response to initial throttle input—new owners should practice gingerly when first starting out if in a slip—and a somewhat greater tilt angle to get the skeg completely out of the water. The absence of need to winterize, let alone worry about storing or discarding fuel, are obvious plusses.

The 1003 is about twice the $900 price listed by West Marine for a Mercury 3.5 hp. If one has the right application need, I’d say the Torqeedo is well worth it.

Thanks for your comments, Stan. The small steering fixing pin is mentioned in the Travel 1003 manual on pages 9, 15, and 26 (do a search for “pin”), but there isn’t an illustration that shows it clearly. The pin gets put in place before the battery and once the battery is locked with the large locking pin, the small pin is secured.

I have an Able , a Selway Fisher design, in which I have a permanently installed 6-hp Tohatsu outboard. The engine is mounted on the centerline in way of the keel and I leave it down (in neutral) when sailing. Being in the draft of the keel the drag seems to be minimal. I would like to replace this with a powerpod of some sort, faired into the keel. I was considering a Torqueedo 1003 which I would use the power head and the controller. I did note that the Torqueedo manual says not to leave the unit freewheeling in the water when sailing as there would be damage to the electronics of the system. I am assuming that this is because, when free wheeling, the motor becomes a generator, sending an electrical charge back into the system. If this is the case, would: A: diodes (to negate electrical feedback) solve this problem? B: A mechanical stop on the prop? C: A master switch to disconnect the power from the power head? I think that there are many of us out here looking for a way to modify existing trolling motors to power our small craft. Spending $6,000.00 on an Elco pod is out of reach for most of us. I belong to the TSCA here on Cape Cod and this is a topic of conversation quite frequently. Many freshwater reservoirs and lakes are off limits to gas engines, so this would open up sailing venues for a lot of us. I’d love some feedback on this.

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Torqeedo Akku entladen?

• Kissenfender
• Nov 17th 2019
• Thread is Unresolved

beim Mitlesen im LiPo-Umbau-Faden fiel mir siedendheiß ein, dass es eine dumme Idee war, meinen Torqeedo-Akku (Travel 1003) zum Saisonende noch mal aufzuladen. Er soll ja beim Einlagern gar nicht voll sein. Isser nun aber.

Gibt es irgendeinen einfachen Trick, den Akku teilweise zu entladen?

Die naheliegende Variante, ihn irgendwie ins Wasser zu hängen und 10 MInuten auf Vollast laufen zu lassen, geht leider nicht als einfach durch, da man ihn dazu besser an eine Motorplatte hängt, aber das Schiff mit der Platte steht gerade hoch und trocken. Falls jemand einen alternativen Geheimtipp hat - her damit.

Ansonsten weiterhin eine angenehme segelfreie Zeit.

Häng doch ne Glühbirne dran, z.B. ne Bilux aus dem Auto. Hat 55W, kannste leicht ausrechnen, wie lang die brennen muß, bis Du auf 50% bist

USB Gerät mit entsprechendem Kabel und Verbraucher dran hängen.

Außerdem bin ich mir nicht sicher, dass Du die Angabe im der Anleitung richtig interpretierst. Ich verstehe es so, dass bei 6 monatiger Lagerung der Ladezustand mindestens 50% betragen soll ( bei 12 Monaten ja 100%). Da muss man ja dann sonst alles für im Voraus genau planen...

Hi, Lipo Akkus sollen möglichst mit der Nennspannung gelagert werden sonst wäre eine Defekt möglich, genau so gefährlich ist ihn leer aufzubewahren. In beiden Fällen können sie sich selbst entzünden. Übrigens ist in einem leeren Akku der größe vom Torquedo immer noch so viel Energie zur Selbstentzündung.

Pro Zelle ist die Nennspannung va. 3,7 V Leer sollte die Spannung nicht unter 3 V gehen und voll geladen hat die Zelle 4,2V. Ich würde den Motor einfach auf einer kleinen Stufe trocken laufenlassen bis am Display 70-80% stehen. kann unbelastet bestimmt eine Zeit dauern. Gruß Amadeus

Was sind das denn für Zellen? Von einer Selbstentzündung von LiFePo4 hab ich noch nix gehört, LiIo könte das passieren. LiFePo4 sollen bei etwa 50% gelagert werden.

Quote from Kapitano Ich würde den Motor einfach auf einer kleinen Stufe trocken laufenlassen bis am Display 70-80% stehen. kann unbelastet bestimmt eine Zeit dauern. Gruß Amadeus

Trocken? Dann ist unter Umständen der Motor und Dichtungen Schrott. Denn die sollen während des Laufens Zwecks Kühlung im Wasser sein.

Das wird jedem Lithium Akku auch noch in 100 Jahren nachhängen. Explodieren weil ein „L“ im Namen.

Danke für die Antworten.

Entladen über USB ist vermutlich am einfachsten. Muss bloß den Adapter wiederfinden. Bleibt die Frage, wie ich die 50 Prozent genau messe.

Trocken laufen lassen halte ich für keine gute Idee aus den hier bereits genannten Gründen.

Die Bedienungsanleitung interpretiere ich so, dass man ihn tatsächlich mit 50 Prozent einlagern soll.

Entladen über eine Glühbirne ginge natürlich, aber dann müsste ich einen passenden Stecker haben oder was basteln. Was genau es für Zellen sind, weiß ich nicht. Auf dem Motor und auch in den Unterlagen von Torqeedo habe ich nur Li-Ion gefunden, das kann alles sein. Einige Antworten klingen so, als ob Ihr keinen Torqeedo-Akku kennt. Wir reden hier nicht von Bastellösungen oder Modellbau-Akkus, sondern von speziell konfektionierten Akkus mit eingebautem Batteriemanagement und mit Schraubsteckern statt Polklemmen.

Ich werde mal schauen, ob ich ihn irgendwo ins Wasser hängen kann. Sonst wird er halt mit 100Prozent gelagert.

Danke Euch trotzdem!

Zitat torqeedo.de Sichere Batterie-Chemie, z.B. LiFePo (Lithium-Eisenphosphat) oder LiNMC (Lithium-Nickel-Mangan-Kobaltoxid). Diese sind mittlerweile gängig.

zooom : Wo immer Du das gefunden hast, danke für die Info.

Wenn du ihn über USB entladen möchtest (was vermutich sehr lange dauern wird) kannst du die Pinne dran hängen, die sagt dir über das Display den aktuellen Ladezustand in %

Ist in der Produktauflistung zu finden, aber sehr versteckt im Produktbereich

Habe meinen Torqeedo nun schon mehr als 6 Jahre. Über das Einlagern habe ich mir ehrlich gesagt nie so Gedanken gemacht. Meist war er voll. Im nächsten Sommer aus der Garage geholt, angebaut und losgefahren. Bisher hab ich nix gemerkt, das dem Akku irgendwas fehlt.

Restlademenge zeigt das Display doch an.

Achso, do willst ja ohne Motor....

Geht das überhaupt? Brauchst du da nicht noch mindestens die Pinne um die Batterie überhaupt einzuschalten? Meine da war was. Bei den großen Torqeedo Batterien war es jedenfalls, wenn man sie ohne Pinne oder Motorpanel nutzen will, braucht es einen Extra Ein-/Ausschalter um die Batterie anzuschalten.

Wenn er unbedingt vor dem Einlagern noch etwas entladen werden soll, dann mache es doch so, wie ich meinen Dingy-Außenborder nach der Saison mit Süßwasser spüle. Einfach in die heimische Regentonne hängen und mit wenig Gas laufen lassen. Wenn keine Regentonne da ist, kann man auch gut die Papiermülltonne nehmen. Die ist meist sehr sauber.

Quote from Kissenfender Danke für die Antworten. Entladen über USB ist vermutlich am einfachsten. Muss bloß den Adapter wiederfinden. Bleibt die Frage, wie ich die 50 Prozent genau messe. Trocken laufen lassen halte ich für keine gute Idee aus den hier bereits genannten Gründen. Die Bedienungsanleitung interpretiere ich so, dass man ihn tatsächlich mit 50 Prozent einlagern soll. Entladen über eine Glühbirne ginge natürlich, aber dann müsste ich einen passenden Stecker haben oder was basteln. Was genau es für Zellen sind, weiß ich nicht. Auf dem Motor und auch in den Unterlagen von Torqeedo habe ich nur Li-Ion gefunden, das kann alles sein. Einige Antworten klingen so, als ob Ihr keinen Torqeedo-Akku kennt. Wir reden hier nicht von Bastellösungen oder Modellbau-Akkus, sondern von speziell konfektionierten Akkus mit eingebautem Batteriemanagement und mit Schraubsteckern statt Polklemmen. Ich werde mal schauen, ob ich ihn irgendwo ins Wasser hängen kann. Sonst wird er halt mit 100Prozent gelagert. Danke Euch trotzdem! Display More

Hallo Karsten,

Akkus sind grundsätzlich "verderblich", sie altern ab der Produktion unweigerlich. Man kann die Alterung verringern, indem man die chemisch-physikalischen Prozesse minimiert, also möglichst geringe Zellspannung und möglichst geringe und gleichmäßige Lagertemperatur (aber frostfrei).

Der Akku sollte bei 50 % Ladezustand gelagert werden, damit noch ausreichend Strom für die ständig mitlaufende Akkuelektronik vorhanden ist und diese die Alterung korrekt mit in die Kapazitätsberechnung einbeziehen kann.

Akkuzellen dürfen laut Hersteller unterhalb einer bestimmten Spannung nicht wieder aufgeladen werden. Lagert man nun den Akku vollständig entleert für längere Zeit ein, riskiert man einen Totalausfall, weil er selbst durch den geringen Strom der Akkuelektronik irgendwann einmal leer ist und sich dann nicht wieder laden lässt.

Ein leerer Akku hat übrigens nicht mehr genügend Energie um sich selbst zu entzünden. Die Torqeedo-Akkus sind keine LiPo-Akkus, sie enthalten kein Kobalt sondern Mangan und werden als LiMa-Akkus bezeichnet. Diese gelten entgegen den LiPo-Akkus als sehr sicher und werden nur noch von den LiFePo4 Akkus übertroffen, wobei letztere viel weniger Kapazität bei gleicher Baugröße aufweisen.

Entladen würde ich den Akku einfach in der Badewanne oder der Regentonne. Auf keinen Fall darf der Motor trocken laufen. Sowohl der Motorstecker als auch der für die Pinne haben eine Erkennung ob der Stecker gesteckt oder offen ist. Entsprechend werden die Spannungen erst dann freigegeben, wenn ein bestimmter Widerstandswert erkannt wird. Eine Entladung per Glühlampe funktioniert daher nicht.

Viele Grüße, Christian

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Torqeedo Travel 1003 Electric Outboard: Banishing the Fumes

• By Webb Chiles
• Updated: January 8, 2013

Torqeedo Travel 1003

The joy of sailing. A finely balanced hull cutting through waves. Blue sky above. Salt spray sparkling across the bow. Warm breeze against skin. A delightful whiff of gasoline. Wait! Stop! And I did, upon noting the first sniff of gasoline that I’ve detected on any boat that I’ve owned, over a span of almost 40 years.

Gannet , the Moore 24 I bought in 2011, came with not one but two gasoline outboards. I thought I’d keep whichever was more reliable—until that first whiff. Moore 24s have open interiors with limited places to stow outboards and jerry jugs of gasoline below, and I keep my decks uncluttered. On a passage, I’d inevitably find myself sleeping next to the outboard and gasoline and oil. It wasn’t going to happen.

Although before I made my first circumnavigation in her, I sailed the engineless, 37-foot Egregious in and out of her slip in San Diego, having no engine on Gannet was not an option. Her then home, North Point Marina on Lake Michigan, near the Illinois/Wisconsin border, with 1,500 slips the biggest freshwater marina in the world, doesn’t permit “sailing, rowing, paddling, or sculling” inside the breakwater. Neither do many other marinas. You may have noticed that the world is falling apart. Perhaps that’s happening because it’s being run by powerboaters.

After some research, I ordered a German-made electric Torqeedo Travel 1003—and learned that it isn’t easy being green. Why? First, in this case, is cost, and second is range.

A Travel 1003 costs roughly $2,000, more than twice the price of a gas outboard of similar power, and has a range of 2 to 16 miles. The 2 miles is at full throttle, when the 520-watt-hour battery will be discharged in 30 minutes. The 16 miles is at low throttle, when the battery will last eight hours.

On the light and easily driven Gannet , I’ve found that at medium throttle, which provides a speed of 2.5 knots, the battery is good for about three hours and a distance of 7 miles. In practice, this means that in and out of the harbor twice leaves the battery close to needing to be recharged, a task that takes more than 23 hours. Even with a boat that sails well, this short range presents problems.

When coastal cruising, I want to be at the next harbor before dark, and I like to start early. Powering across smooth water at first light before the wind comes up has its charms. With the quiet but not completely silent Torqeedo—there’s a not unpleasant whirring sound—those charms aren’t much compromised. But not many miles are covered, either.

Torqeedo offers a possible solution: a solar panel that rolls up for storage and is said to provide unlimited range in bright sunlight. This panel costs $1,000. Nevertheless, I requested and received one for my 70th birthday. Being old has its compensations.

I knew the dimensions of the panel, but sometimes you have to see something to really understand. When the box arrived, I thought it big. When I opened it and unrolled the panel, Carol, my wife, immediately said, “There’s no place for that on Gannet .” And within the length of its connecting cord, there wasn’t. I sent the panel back.

I’m considering buying a second battery, for $700, that would more than double my range by allowing one battery to be used while the other is being partially recharged by the boat’s main electrical system with its own solar panels. This would also increase the cost of being green to about three times that of an equivalent 3-horsepower gas outboard.

Having said all this, I don’t regret my choice at all.

The good news begins just after I place the clever Moore 24 outboard bracket in its slot in the stern. The bracket is easy to insert and remove even while the boat is under way, and so is the three-part Torqeedo, which, at 31 pounds for the long-shaft version, weighs about the same as a comparable gas outboard. On the advice of a former Moore 24 owner, I bought the long-shaft version. He meant well, but this was a mistake. The short shaft would’ve worked, saved a pound, taken up less room below, and not required special manipulation to clear the water when the engine isn’t in use.

On our first venture into Lake Michigan with the Torqeedo, I found that even when the engine was locked in the raised position, the long shaft left the prop partially dragging in the water, undercutting sailing performance and creating far more noise than the engine does in use. The solution—to tilt the engine more and secure it with sail ties to the stern-pulpit stanchions—means that I have to remove the tiller arm and stow it below. Slightly awkward, but necessary.

With the shaft tightened to the outboard bracket by two plastic-handled bolts, the battery is slipped into its slot, lowered, then locked by inserting a plastic pin. Finally, the tiller arm is attached and two electric cables connected: one from the battery to the shaft, the other from the tiller arm to the battery.

I’m struck by three things in this process: how well the Torqeedo is engineered and designed, how easy it is to mount and assemble, and how clean the parts are. No grease. No oil. No scrubbing my hands before I touch anything else.

My only reservation about the quality of the Travel 1003 is that the electrical cable connectors are plastic rather than metal and raise a concern about eventual cross threading. Thus far, I haven’t had a problem, but I do think metal connectors would be better and more appropriate on what is a top-end product.

With the Travel 1003 assembled comes a great moment: instant, one-finger starting. Press a button on the tiller arm and the Torqeedo is on, although the only way you know that is by the tiller-arm display lighting up. No repeated pulling on a cord. No curses. No fiddling. Not even a sound. In fact, there’s wonder and doubt that the engine is on, relieved by twisting the tiller handle and seeing the big, two-bladed prop turn. Back to neutral and absolute silence.

The Travel 1003 has forward, reverse, and, for 2,050-pound Gannet , ample power and torque. I don’t know how fast it will drive the little boat, but I’ve had her at 6 knots in one brief burst.

I knew my speed from the remarkable tiller-arm display, with built-in GPS, that shows the percentage of remaining battery charge, remaining range at the current speed, speed over ground, and consumption in watts. Increasing rpm and observing the often-dramatic decrease in range is instructive. An alarm sounds when battery charge drops to 30 percent.

I’ve only approached setting off that alarm once, when haze and a wind shift caused me to come in a mile downwind of the breakwater entrance. Unfortunately, I lowered sails before I realized my mistake. Gannet dislikes being powered into chop, and I had to keep increasing rpm to make any headway. Lesson learned, I’ve subsequently been more careful on my returns to the marina, and I’ve added jib-furling gear so I can resume sailing without having to haul a jib back on deck.

Engines are necessary because people have made them necessary.

I don’t take exception to North Point Marina’s rules. More than 1,500 boats trying, on a busy weekend, to use one narrow, partially silted over entrance, with some of them short-tacking under sail in front of confused powerboaters, is certain chaos and probable disaster.

Harbors all over are now laid out with the expectation that vessels have engines. To clear in with officials in many ports requires tying to docks impossible to reach under sail. So an engine or a tow is needed for the last few hundred yards. And I need an engine for the .75-mile trip from my slip to beyond the maelstrom of powerboat wakes at the breakwater entrance.

For those distances, and for me, the Torqeedo Travel 1003 is excellent.

Webb Chiles has moved Gannet to San Diego to prepare her for his next voyage. Kindle editions of his books are available from Amazon.com .

To read another family’s account of using the Torqeedo, click here .

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• General Discussion

Torqeedo Travel 1003 S/L Setup & Operating experiences

• Thread starter baz
• Start date May 21, 2010

Well-known member

• May 21, 2010

I just called Torqeedo Service line at 815-444-8806 to discuss the issue of the missing rubber flap cap for the battery charge-socket. The service technician was very informative and explained that the rubber flip cap is no longer needed because the charging port is itself water proof and protects the battery from water. The company found that if they installed the rubber flip cap it would render the port to be not waterproof any longer and would not protect the battery from water seepage. So they decided to not install it. The Operations Manual is in error. The only concern is that dirt, sand or other material might lodge inside the port and suggested finding a rubber cap to slip over the port if customer found that to be a problem. For me, I'll simply lay a small piece of duck tape over the port until I find a more appropriate covering. The service person said there's no need to register the product -- just keep the dated invoice as proof of purchase for any warranty work.  

KTP":22o5p5jv said: ...snip... I then connected it to a 12V battery and charged it back up to 100%....so cool that you can directly charge it from a normal battery. It must have a wide input range DC-DC converter inside the battery casing (along with the gps and whatever else they put in there). ...snip... Click to expand...

• May 23, 2010

• May 30, 2010

Bruce Moore

• May 31, 2010

Love to see the sea-trial Barry, but the file is not available.  

Bruce Moore":1osdz7rz said: Love to see the sea-trial Barry, but the file is not available. Click to expand...

Nice job Barry. Looks like a great solution and installation. Love the clean and quiet qualities. Breaks down nicely. Cheers  

Hey Bruce: If you d/l the latest Charts&Tides application on your iPad you will note that ActiveCaptain has added the black T marker. Tapping on it will produce the local Tide info for that location -- a great addition. I showed the App to my son yesterday and he was amazed with it all. It (the iPad) can sit angled up on the navigator's desk/sill and allow the navigator to see almost everything displayed on the Garmin screen -- as well as all the other things the iPad does so well.  

Yes, it's a nice incremental improvement. I don't want to hijack you Torqeedo thread, as I look forward to your ongoing discoveries. But, there are also black C markers which show currents. Nice. Cheers  

• Jun 1, 2010

baz":9o6kiwco said: FYI... After I had received confirmation from Torqeedo service help desk that there was no use for a cap for the battery charging socket there was a follow up enquiry they had for me. They asked... "If you turn around your tiller and look at the bottom side of it, you should see two plastic plates holding the tiller handle in place. What color do they have and how many do you see? Are there two plates on top of each other, so in total four?" I have no clue about why there's a question about the color of the plastic plates, but I do have a total of four (4) plastic plates as shown below. I've sent these photos back to the Torqeedo help desk person and await their response. The first picture shows the underneath of the tiller arm and the two stacked white plastic plates held by two screws. The second picture shows quite clearly that there are two white plates at each location stacked on top of each other. I'm suspecting the need for TWO plates at each location is for added strength -- but I could be wrong about that. ...photo images were snipped... Click to expand...

• Jun 8, 2010

I took out my Montgomery 17 sailboat with the Torqeedo 1003 Saturday. We had such great wind that I barely used it...we raised the sails in the Port of Everett channel just a few hundred yards from the launch ramps. It seemed to work fine, at full power it pushed us at close to 5 kts which is about what the 2.5hp gas outboard does. It wouldn't run very long like this though...maybe 20 minutes. At a more reasonable 400 watts input it pushed us at 3 kts into wind. I hooked it via a 12V lighter plug while we were sailing and after an hour it had recharged from 91% to 100%. I am having a maybe big problem though. I noticed the motor is twisting in relation to the tiller arm (I am not talking about the normal way you would rotate the motor/prop using the tiller). I assumed out on the water that it was just the two allen screws at the top of the Torqeedo needed tightning but after calling Torqeedo and having them suggest the same thing I tried it and the motor still twists in relation to the tiller arm just as bad. I am waiting for the tech support guy to call back so I can get a resolution. I am afraid the connecting shaft is twisting down near the motor or perhaps there is another clamp to tighten inside the aluminum fairing around the shaft?  

KTP":2z68irb7 said: snip... I am having a maybe big problem though. I noticed the motor is twisting in relation to the tiller arm (I am not talking about the normal way you would rotate the motor/prop using the tiller). I assumed out on the water that it was just the two allen screws at the top of the Torqeedo needed tightning but after calling Torqeedo and having them suggest the same thing I tried it and the motor still twists in relation to the tiller arm just as bad. I am waiting for the tech support guy to call back so I can get a resolution. I am afraid the connecting shaft is twisting down near the motor or perhaps there is another clamp to tighten inside the aluminum fairing around the shaft? Click to expand...

• Jun 14, 2010

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• Torqeedo Manuals
• Outboard Motor
• Travel Series
• Owner's manual

Torqeedo Travel Series Owner's Manual

• page of 30 Go / 30

Table of Contents

• Troubleshooting

1 Important Safety and Operating Information

2 information required by law.

• Identification and Technical Data
• Conformity Declaration

3 Equipment and Operating Elements

• Delivery Scope
• Plan of Operating Elements

4 Starting up

5 operation.

• Normal Operation
• Multifunctional Display with Beep
• Tilting the Motor and Fixing the Steering
• Battery Safety Instructions
• General Information on Batteries
• Charging the Batteries from the Mains
• Charging the Batteries from the On-Board Batteries
• Charging the Batteries Using Solar Energy
• Power Supply to a Device Via USB Supply Connection
• Unusual Functions/Emergency Situations
• Error Messages/Trouble Shooting

6 Dismantling

7 storage and care instructions.

• Corrosion Protection, Care, Maintenance
• Caring for the Battery
• Changing the Propeller

8 Warranty Terms

• Extent of Warranty
• Warranty Process

9 Accessories

10 decommissioning the product / disposal.

• Disposing of Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment
• Disposing of of Batteries

11 Torqeedo Service Centers

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• 1 Changing the Propeller
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Summary of Contents for Torqeedo Travel Series

• Page 1 Please take the time to read this operating manual carefully so that you can use the motor properly and enjoy it for a long time. We hope you have a lot of fun on the water with your Torqeedo Travel. Your Torqeedo Team...

Page 3: Table Of Contents

Page 4: important safety and operating information.

• Page 5 This symbol warns about the risk of damage to or by your outboard motor. There follows a selection of the most important instructions for handling Torqeedo Travel motors. Apart from these instructions, please observe the complete operating manual to prevent damage to or by your motor.

Page 6: Information Required By Law

• Page 7 Technical data Name of model Travel 503 S/L Travel 1003 S/L Travel 1003 CS/CL Max. input power (in watt) 1.000 1.000 Max. propulsive power (in watt) Max. overall efficiency (in %) Comparable petrol outboard motor 1.5 HP 3 HP 3 HP (propulsive power) Proper use for boats with total weight to (in tonnes)

Page 8: Conformity Declaration

Page 9: equipment and operating elements, page 10: starting up.

• Page 11 Mount gently.No force required. 1. Allow it to slide into the mounting. 2. Move it slowly into a horizontal position. • When you are using the battery for the first time or after several months of storage, charge it up to 100% to calibrate the battery meter (charging the battery up to 99% is not sufficient for the calibration).

Page 12: Operation

• Page 13 Use the “setup” button to set the units for the display: First you can select the units in which the remaining range is displayed. Press the “cal“ button to switch between information in kilometers, statutory miles, nautical miles, and hours. You confirm your selection by pressing “setup” again. You then enter the speed indicator setting.

Page 14: Tilting The Motor And Fixing The Steering

Page 15: operating the batteries, page 16: general information on batteries, page 17: charging the batteries from the mains, page 18: charging the batteries from the on-board batteries, page 19: charging the batteries using solar energy, page 20: unusual functions/emergency situations, page 21: error messages/trouble shooting, page 22: dismantling, page 23: storage and care instructions, page 24: changing the propeller, page 25: warranty terms, page 26: warranty process, page 27: accessories, page 28: decommissioning the product / disposal, page 29: disposing of of batteries, page 30: torqeedo service centers, this manual is also suitable for:, rename the bookmark, delete bookmark, delete from my manuals, upload manual.

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BRONTE & FRANK GO TO MOSCOW (Children's Traveltivity Guide) Hardcover – January 1, 2011

• Print length 50 pages
• Language English
• Publisher Worthy Hen Productions LLC
• Publication date January 1, 2011
• ISBN-10 0615381383
• ISBN-13 978-0615381381
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Product details

• Publisher ‏ : ‎ Worthy Hen Productions LLC (January 1, 2011)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Hardcover ‏ : ‎ 50 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 0615381383
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-0615381381
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 13 ounces

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