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The Best Tour I Booked in Johannesburg: An Afternoon with a Local Dressmaker
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All listings featured in this story are independently selected by our editors. However, when you book something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.
When traveling alone, I typically stay in dorm-style hostels, simply because I’m an extrovert who loves befriending new people. As I planned my June trip to Johannesburg , however, I knew my solo travel skills were a bit rusty, so I decided to ease back in with more upscale accommodations at the Voco Johannesburg Rosebank . The property is one of the newest in the posh neighborhood of Rosebank and an ideal watering hole thanks to its café, co-working space, and (my personal favorite) the Proud Mary Modern Eatery & Wine Bar.
While I enjoyed the oasis-like retreat—Voco’s turndown service even included packets of powdered CBD that dissolved in water and lulled me to sleep—I also wanted to venture into other Joburg neighborhoods and get back to the root of what made me first fall in love with solo travel: connecting with people, deep conversations, meaningful cultural experiences, and, of course, some good times.
Having already done all the usual Joburg tours and museum visits during my first few days in the city, I turned to Airbnb Experiences to find something a little different. That’s how I discovered Sebo Marobela, the fashion designer behind Caraci Clothing .
Design a bespoke African print masterpiece , the description read. I was instantly intrigued, but the five-star rating and photos of happy customers in incredibly beautiful gowns, jackets, and more sealed the deal. I booked a visit immediately.
The next morning, I met Marobela at his studio in downtown Joburg. After introductions and light refreshments, we walked to the fashion district together and got to know each other better. Along the way, Marobela encouraged me to strut my stuff on the remains of an old outdoor catwalk from Johannesburg Fashion Week.
My runway walk was far from anything you’d see in a fashion show, but Marobela cheered me on as if I were Naomi Campbell or Bella Hadid . It was the first of many moments that I realized what a safe and welcoming space he created throughout the experience. He’d later explain that his cheerful outlook grew from both positive and negative childhood memories.
Growing up in the township of Namakgale, Marobela said his interest in fashion was frowned upon and even openly mocked. It was difficult to feel different from his peers, but that didn’t stop him from enjoying weekly styling sessions with his mom and sister as he dressed and accessorized them in their Sunday best before church.
Now, he looks at every piece of clothing he makes as a form of activism, allowing people to express their true selves. So when we arrived at the fabric shop, it came as no surprise that Marobela gave me free rein to choose from hundreds of African prints, some more traditional than others. I pried a few opinions out of him when my indecisive nature got in the way and eventually settled on an intricately patterned red and orange fabric with hints of blue and white.
Step one in the dressmaking process: Choose a print from hundreds of fabric options.
We headed back to his studio, where Marobela taught me some of the basics of sewing and was kind enough not to laugh at my rudimentary skills. His master tailor then took my measurements as we discussed the style I wanted for my dress. Once that was decided—I went for a strappy crop top with a matching maxi skirt—Marobela and I went out for a traditional South African lunch and he showed me around the artsy neighborhood of Maboneng. Our conversations deepened even further as we shared tales of love, moving abroad (he spent time living in China), and the differences between race and racism in the U.S. versus South Africa. It was exactly the kind of conversation and connection I was looking for.
By the time we returned to Marobela’s studio two hours later, my dress was ready. It fit perfectly so we went straight to the building’s rooftop for the signature ending of every Caraci Experience: a photoshoot and mini dance session. I couldn’t believe that such a beautiful garment was made from scratch in so little time. I loved it so much that I ordered a matching shirt for my fiancé, another dress for myself, plus outfits for the whole family, which I was able to pick up the next day.
In the end, my time with Marobela through this Airbnb Experience was the most unforgettable part of my entire five-day trip to South Africa . I explored Joburg with a local, learned about South African food and culture, and left with the best souvenirs I could’ve asked for. Even better, I left with a new friend.
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Room service: Johannesburg
The Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa
There's a new-found confidence in South Africa's teeming hub, with an edgy art scene and plush, top-rate haunts. By Sarah Khan.
THE SAXON HOTEL, VILLAS & SPA
Best for Splurge
Location In the ritzy northern suburb of Sandhurst, surrounded by sprawling gated compounds with high walls and security guards; the domain of business magnates and international consulates
Look Sophisticated African chic set against an earthy palette, carefully picked out and repeated in everything from the cushions to the tribal-inspired figurines guarding the bathrooms
Crowd Nelson Mandela decamped here to finish his autobiography; world leaders including the Clintons continue to flow through its doors
Rooms All 53 airy rooms and suites are done up in creams and browns, each with contemporary sculptures, latticed wooden windows and massive baths
Eating & drinking At Five Hundred restaurant even the butter dishes are works of art and the eight tables are the hardest to book in town. The six-course Ruinart Experience pairs Champagne with foie gras and caviar
Best thing The smart technology: the in-room laptops are a treat and the hotel must have South Africa's fastest internet access
Worst thing The full-length mirrors in the rooms are badly positioned and not very flattering
Price Doubles from about £310
The Saxon Hotel, 36 Saxon Road, Sandhurst, Johannesburg, South Africa (+27 11 292 6000; www.saxon.co.za )
54 on Bath, Johannesburg
Best for Business
Location In the walkable, tree-lined Rosebank suburb, a mix of private homes, offices and shops. The enormous Rosebank Mall is right next door, connected to the hotel by a pedestrian tunnel
Look An imposing 10-storey brick façade and fresh interiors in black, white, grey and mint, with works from locals artists William Kentridge and Tinus de Jongh and photographer Ryan Hitchcock
Crowd Savvy business travellers and well-known faces looking to keep a low profile (Desmond Tutu was spotted here recently)
Rooms 75 rooms, including 12 executive suites and three luxury suites with private terraces; vibrant photography adds a punch of colour
Eating & drinking Level Four serves creative dishes such as terrine with pickled pears and rooibos gel; the super-glamorous Veuve Clicquot Champagne Bar is wonderfully over-the-top
Best thing High tea, served in the gardens or the lobby with its white grand piano, attracts a stylish crowd
Worst thing The Rosebank Mall is being extended, which means for now most rooms will have views of a mammoth construction site
Price Doubles from about £180
54 on Bath, 54 Bath Avenue, Rosebank, Johannesburg, South Africa (+27 11 344 8500; www.tsogosunhotels.com )
The Munro Boutique Hotel, Johannesburg
THE MUNRO BOUTIQUE HOTEL
Best for Classic
Location Cocooned in the old-money suburb of Houghton, amidst stately Arts and Crafts houses dating back to the 1930s and up the road from two of Johannesburg's most elite schools
Look The opulent French château of your eccentric, globetrotting aunt: the dining room, where you can feast on millionaire's pie, has an elaborate ceiling mural with a portrait of the owner's face secreted in it
Crowd A sophisticated, older set after a cosseting oasis in the city. Apple co-founder Steve Wozniak has stayed
Rooms There are just five sumptuous suites. The Presidential Suite has a large sun terrace, sauna and walk-in wardrobe big enough to make Lady Gaga blush
Eating & drinking On-demand dining is the order of the day. In the mood for poached eggs at 11pm in the conservatory? The chef will serve you what you want, where and when you want it
Best thing The view from the infinity pool over the city's surprisingly lush landscape is perhaps the finest in Johannesburg
Worst thing There are no lotions, hair dryers, irons or phones in the bedrooms. If you need anything, you have to go downstairs to ask
Price Doubles from about £230
The Munro Boutique Hotel, 63 St Patrick Road, Houghton Estate, Johannesburg, South Africa (+ 27 11 487 1420; www.themunrohotel.com )
12 Decades Art Hotel in Maboneng, Johannesburg
12 DECADES ART HOTEL IN MABONENG
Best for Good value
Location In the hip Maboneng Precinct, a once-gritty enclave (it's still fringed by dodgy neighbourhoods) now transformed into a district of galleries, restaurants and shops
Look Like a modern-art museum, with a simple check-in desk at the end of an art-filled corridor and abstract paintings as you get out of the lift to the seventh-floor rooms (there are private apartments on the floors in between)
Crowd Creative locals and international musicians, photographers and painters: asymmetrically shaved haircuts and neon sneakers are par for the course
Rooms Each of the 12 Decades Rooms is designed by a different artist to reflect 10 years in the city's history. In the one titled 1946-1956 (A part love, A part hate) apartheid laws line the loo bowl
Food & drink There's no restaurant, but every room has a kitchenette and the local area is home to innovative restaurants; try the Afro-Asian fusion sushi at The Blackanese
Best thing The attention to detail: everything from the lamps to the coat hooks conforms to the specific theme
Worst thing There's no one on the front desk after 10pm, which might make some guests feel uneasy
Price Doubles from about £55
12 Decades Art Hotel, 286 Fox Street, Maboneng, Johannesburg, South Africa (+27 1 026 5601; www.12decadeshotel.co.za )
The Peech, Johannesburg
Best for Contemporary
Location Opposite a park in the leafy neighbourhood of Melrose in the northern suburbs, not far from the Melrose Arch complex where throngs of suited workers and stroller- pushing moms eat and shop
Look In the style of a trendy mountain chalet, with logs stacked up around an art installation featuring edgy photography of inner-city Johannesburg and cowhide rugs laid on polished-concrete floors
Crowd It's popular with a young crowd of media folk, so don't be surprised if you stumble into a fashion shoot taking place in the lobby
Rooms The 16 eco-friendly rooms have rain showers, African masks, scarlet accents and bold, black, patterned wallpaper. The two suites have indoor swings
Eating & drinking The Bistro and small Champagne bar serve some of the best food and cocktails in town (lamb cutlets with minted pea risotto; the apple-sour-flavoured Faithfull Russian)
Best thing The hammock overlooking the Japanese- style gardens. But you might have to share it with resident cat Peeches
Worst thing Teetering up the narrow metal staircases to the higher-level rooms can be a mission, especially in heels
Price Doubles from about £140
The Peech, 61 North Street, Melrose, Johannesburg, South Africa (+27 11 537 9797; www.thepeech.co.za)
By Sarah Khan. This story featured in the January 2014 issue of Condé Nast Traveller [/i]